To mark the summer’s waning hours, I headed north last weekend. Flying along on highways where goldenrod nodded in the ditches and Monarch butterflies floated overhead, I drove past Iowa’s Largest Frying Pan in Brandon and the Smallest Church in the World in Festina, to the tiny town of Spillville.
Spillville’s population is 400, a number that’s stayed steady since 1893, when composer Antonín DvoÅ™ák spent the summer there, writing music and playing the pipe organ that still stands at St. Wenceslaus Catholic Church.
But Dvorak’s legacy wasn’t what drew me to this town. I came to mark the change of seasons at a museum dedicated to time: The Bily Clock Museum. Nearly 10,000 people come annually to see the 40 wooden clocks carved from 1913 to 1958 by brothers Frank and Joseph Bily.
The Bily Clock Museum houses a collection that reveals a level of skill, and an awareness of the world, that is remarkable for two men with no training in art and an education that ended at the fifth grade. There is poignancy in their devotion to travel and adventure: clocks pay homage to pioneers and Native Americans, to Charles Lindbergh’s transatlantic flight, and to the history of travel. Yet the Bily brothers never traveled farther than 35 miles from home.
Frank and Joseph lived with their Bohemian-born parents and two siblings outside of town, where they farmed and did occasional carpentry. Their father thought carving was a waste of time when farm chores were waiting, so Frank and Joseph made clocks in the winter. They started in order to cheer their disabled brother, who they noticed brightened when they Joseph and Frank Bily
helped a neighbor install the mechanism for a clock with chimes.
For the Bily brothers, clocks were a team enterprise. Frank was the master carver, while Joseph drew up plans and assembled the pieces. Their clocks incorporate a mélange of woods: early on they combined imported woods like white holly and European black cherry while later clocks are an amalgam of native Iowa woods, including black walnut, ash, and butternut. The brothers used simple, often handmade, tools. In 1920, they modified their mother’s treadle sewing machine, without her permission, to make a scroll saw for cutting delicate fretwork.
Fortunately, their mother was a strong advocate of their carving.
Details of the History of Travel Clock
The brothers spent hours researching themes for their clocks, which depict topics ranging from religion to architecture to current events. Though the boys’ education ended early, they were avid readers and their mother subscribed to The New York Times, The Chicago-Sun Times, and The Des Moines Register. While images like Father Time and the world appear repeatedly, the clocks also commemorate an array of world citizens, including Quaker activist Elizabeth Fry, philosopher Emanuel Kant, and playwright Henrik Ibsen.
Frank and Joesph used chimes and music boxes to enliven their constructions, and carried to a delightful extreme the clock-making tradition of incorporating moveable parts. Amidst the clocks’ carved panels are a Native American who raises an arm, Spillville’s village band, and The Seven Stages of Man from Shakespeare’s As You Like It, who circulate atop the Parade of Nations Clock while music plays. Many clocks include exquisite detail: close inspection reveals buttons with stitching, creased pants, and the weave of the straw hat on the wooden farmer in the Village Blacksmith Shop Clock.
Details of the Village Blacksmith and Paradise Clocks
As the brother’s skills increased, their fame spread. Automaker Henry Ford, who had an affinity for clocks and music boxes, in 1928 offered the brothers $1 million for their American Pioneer History Clock. Four years in the making, the clock is over eight feet high and weighs more than 500 pounds. Scenes on the clock range from Sacajawea leading Lewis and Clark to the Pacific to the battle of Tippecanoe. When
the clock strikes the hour, figures representing the Four Ages of Life emerge from behind a panel depicting the Mayflower. The brothers reportedly said that if anyone wanted to see the clock, they could come to Spillville — they wouldn’t sell to Henry Ford.
By the late 1920s, Frank and Joseph moved the clocks from their home to a barn and charged visitors 10 cents to view them. None of the four Bily children ever married and they raised the money to support their beloved, but shy and unworldly sister Anna, who they imagined would outlive them. Thousands of people drove the rutted, muddy road for a look at the clocks and Anna stored the admission fees in tobacco cans. In the end, Frank and Joseph outlived Anna and when they sold the house, the new owners added electricity. In the attic they found the tobacco tins stuffed with money. Anna had never used it.
The Bily brothers moved the clocks to town in 1946 and ultimately gave them to Spillville, with the provision that the collection never be divided or sold. The building containing the clocks is the same one that housed DvoÅ™ák in 1893. Docents lead visitors around the clock-filled room, engaging the chimes and music boxes and sharing stories embroidered by Bily legends and the passing of time. The brothers, who carved images of the world from the sanctuary of their rural workshop, now attract visitors from around the globe and keep the tiny town of Spillville on the map.
All photos by Linzee McCray.
About the author: A lifelong sewer/knitter and former weaver/spinner, Linzee Kull McCray, a.k.a. lkmccray, is a writer and editor living in Iowa. She feels fortunate to meet and write about people, from scientists to stitchers, who are passionate about their work. Her freelance writing appears in Quilts and More, Stitch, Fiberarts, American Patchwork and Quilting and more. For more textile musings, visit her blog.
135 comments
Sign in to add your ownartofjane says:
wow!
1 year ago
rarebeasts says:
Amazing workmanship. Time well spent!
1 year ago
vestedbeevintage says:
This is wonerful art.
1 year ago
TwinkleStarCrafts says:
The detail is extraordinary!
1 year ago
QuiltFinger says:
WOW. What a cool museum. Old school woodworkers had some mad skills. Those clocks are incredibly ornate.
1 year ago
kissadesign says:
Wow is right! Gorgeous work, amazing details!
1 year ago
natalya1905 says:
Absolutely amazing! To me, woodworking is one of the most complicated crafts. When knitting/crocheting, if you make a mistake, you can easily fix it. And when working with wood, you can't. Spoiled is spoiled. My total admiration to all the talented people who can work with wood and create all these masterpieces!
1 year ago
VivaGailBeads says:
Stunning Work!
1 year ago
BeaumontStudio says:
what an amazing story!
1 year ago
whphotography says:
Gorgeous details.... Handcrafted at its best! xo, WHP www.walterhelenaphotography.blogspot.com
1 year ago
rosebudshome says:
True craftsmanship, artists, hats off to your impeccable work!
1 year ago
Ayca says:
Absolutely gorgeous!
1 year ago
paramountvintage says:
beautiful workmanship. stunning!
1 year ago
KettleConfections says:
The craftsmanship is amazing - thank you for sharing. We'll have to visit the museum on a future vacation trip.
1 year ago
KMalinka says:
Wonderful wooden work!
1 year ago
IlluminatedPerfume says:
Wow, super cool!
1 year ago
thecottagemarket says:
what an amazing article! what incredible artisans that held true to their art form and never sold out (how cool is that!) the intricacy of their work is just totally outstanding and one could look at the creations for hours and see something new each passing minute! i really enjoyed this article and the new knowledge it gave me. i am an art major and i love to tuck a new piece of info into my hat all the time! thank you so much for sharing and thrilled you had such a wonderful experience! the etsy finds shown here are just FABULOUS!!!! hats off to you all...you rock : )
1 year ago
whittenjewelry says:
This kind of work totally amazes me. What talent!! The story is an inspiration that it doesn't matter your education level and it doesn't matter if others think what you do is a waste of time. What matters is that you do what you love and what you know you are good at. If you do, you will be a success!
1 year ago
BlushEnvy says:
Absolutely amazing!
1 year ago
seaofbees says:
absolutely beautiful!
1 year ago
jennifermorrisbeads says:
what a beautiful and beautifully written story! i'm all teary-eyed with inspiration now. thank you so much for sharing this.
1 year ago
RubyMarilyn says:
Haha! I have a ton of relatives in Iowa and we went and visited the Billy Clocks as well. To my 11 year old self it was pretty boring but now I can appreciate how cool they are!
1 year ago
CustomDogBandanas says:
Very interesting!
1 year ago
polkadotsandblooms says:
I am always mesmerized by carvings, especially those of such outstanding beauty. A wonderful craft!
1 year ago
SatinandBirch says:
Thank you for making me aware. ox
1 year ago
storyline says:
thanks for a wonderful article, inspiring and informative, I would love to see this museum!
1 year ago
LeafandInk says:
Linzee Kull McCray is a rare gifted writer. Some writers must work diligently to produce average writings, others, rare, are birthed. Much respect, Lisa LeafandInk
1 year ago
SewMuchMoreDecor says:
Its so beautiful and detailed, I love the look and feel of wood so much!
1 year ago
Vivavivant says:
Beautiful, beautiful story.
1 year ago
girltuesdayjewelry says:
Amazing!
1 year ago
RaiseYourFist says:
I am always amazed at the detail in nice wooden carvings, I just got my uncles entire wood carving tool set, but I have a lot to learn - It's Always inspiring to see masterful work like these.
1 year ago
GreenHornedUnicorn says:
I've visited the Bily Clock Museum a few years back and was amazed with their creations.
1 year ago
HandyHousewife says:
I actually did stop and see Iowa’s Largest Frying Pan in Brandon a few week's ago. My husband and I have been looking for a day trip destination here in Eastern Iowa to enjoy the fall foliage next month and the Bily museum looks like the perfect place to go. Thanks!
1 year ago
RoseyFinch says:
Amazing!
1 year ago
tuckooandmoocow says:
$1 million in 1928 from Henry Ford! Wow, that just blew me away. How amazing. The clock pictured at the top is just absolutely stunning. This is such an interesting article especially when considering the current featured sellers' passion. Thanks so much for sharing!
1 year ago
beachglassshop says:
something to put on my agenda! Beautiful detail!
1 year ago
skrocki says:
wow! amazing. A person doesn't see this type of art too often anymore!
1 year ago
heatherberry says:
I have driven by this place so many times! I have to go now! Thanks for this article :)
1 year ago
JoviesJewels says:
beatiful, Thanks for sharing.
1 year ago
breadandroses2 says:
Phenomenal. This is in the same vein as the Warther Museum of intricate woodcarvings in Dover, OH. All amazing stuff. Love Dvorak & knew he spent time in Iowa but not Spillville. Must make a pilgrimage. Truly a remarkable story.
1 year ago
polkadotmagpie says:
I love places like the Bily's! There was a clock museum in Rockford Illinois I visited once. Amazing craftsmanship!
1 year ago
juxtapose66 says:
What an interesting story! I would love to visit that museum.
1 year ago
akcArt says:
How gorgeous! What a talent! Thanks for the article!
1 year ago
taylorseclectic says:
What a fascinating article! You really brought the artists alive with your writing and gave a glimpse into who they were, and what drove them. I really enjoyed this piece.
1 year ago
starbee says:
What a great little article- totally unexpected. Thanks!
1 year ago
excentrix says:
It's amazing how we used to spend more time with our art and less time with the burden of making ends meet, yet the art we made with our less expensive lifestyles is worth ten times more that the art we make now...
1 year ago
MJSGems says:
This work is stunning!! I have carved a few pieces and these guys were the best!
1 year ago
Parachute425 says:
What beautiful work and a great, great story.
1 year ago
wahlrus says:
That must have taken so much patience! Great, interesting story! Thanks for the article! etsyLove from, Jamie
1 year ago
ilovemysoldier03 says:
Wow, what amazing work!
1 year ago
Waterrose says:
I would love to see those up close...can't believe the detail and craftsmanship....wow!
1 year ago
candacejean says:
This is so wonderful! I especially love the line "Fortunately their mother was a strong advocate of their carving". Haha. I enjoyed this read so much! I'd love to see the clocks in person!
1 year ago
rozzie says:
I think anyone reading this will give a generous wow!
1 year ago
SimpleJoysPaperie says:
Amazing! Thank you for sharing this story!
1 year ago
katherynmd says:
Such craftsmanship & beauty. TY for sharing this wonderful article!!
1 year ago
BlueRoseRetro says:
Really amazing what can be created with wood. Love SandraHealy's critters!
1 year ago
bedbuggs says:
Can you say awesome???
1 year ago
DazzledBeader says:
Wow, that detail is amazing! I also love the wood usb drive. That is cool.
1 year ago
myhandmadecrafts says:
amazing work! great article! :)))
1 year ago
myhandmadecrafts says:
amazing work! great details! thanks for sharing this article! :)))
1 year ago
carlossantiago says:
it looks fun! I love wood items.
1 year ago
muhgracie says:
WOW. that's all i can say. im utterly speechless.
1 year ago
mazedasastoat says:
I'm stunned, humbled & inspired. WOW!
1 year ago
VintageZen says:
WOW.
1 year ago
hankietankie says:
incredible craftmanship! great & unique story! XO
1 year ago
AnnDoraCraft says:
Hey that's cool! I went there as a kid once. I grew up in Iowa and my parents decided to tour Iowa for our summer vacation one year. We went to all sorts of little museums like this one.
1 year ago
AParisFleaMarket says:
Great article!!! The craftsmanship is fantastic. Thanks for taking me somewhere I've never been.
1 year ago
Kinakt says:
What beautiful carvings. Such dedication to a craft that probably takes a whole lifetime to finally understand. Makes me want to get out there and get creating!
1 year ago
AnnDoraCraft says:
Hey that's cool! I went there once as a kid. I grew up in Iowa and my parents decided to tour Iowa for our summer vacation that year. We visited all sorts of little museums like this one. Thanks for the fond memory!
1 year ago
AnnDoraCraft says:
Oops. Somehow that got on there twice. :(
1 year ago
oldworldprimitives says:
Wow! The Bily Brothers' work is exquisite.
1 year ago
crystalbat says:
this is a really great article! i love it!
1 year ago
nocturniquette says:
The clocks are gorgeous...but the story of the siblings' love for one another is more precious still. Thank you so much for sharing their amazing tale.
1 year ago
whimsywhimsical says:
It takes so much effort and patience to finish a carving master piece. Very inspiring and fascinating story you have shared :D
1 year ago
accentonvintage says:
I would love to see this museum! Great article! Great craftsmanship !
1 year ago
yourethatgirldesigns says:
What a great story! I loved reading this.
1 year ago
CuteCapes says:
Amazing!!
1 year ago
SmallEarthVintage says:
Wonderful story--really enjoyed this virtual trip to the Bily Clock Museum! In fact, I'll be tempted to take a trip to visit it on my next trip through Iowa. Amazing looking works of art.
1 year ago
thenewblackmarket says:
stunning craftsmanship!
1 year ago
AntoinettesWhims says:
I was 11 years old when my parents packed up the VW Bug for a road trip from CT to Iowa to visit family. I remember visiting this wonderful museum and being memorized by the beautiful carvings and wonderful time pieces. I still have the charm from the Museum on my charm bracelet which tells my life history. Thank you for bringing back such a pleasant memory. Another memory from that trip was that gas was 29 cents a gallon the summer of 1972.
1 year ago
cpsanti says:
That's amazing. Thanks for the eyecandy and the lovely story behind it ;-)
1 year ago
SeekersOfLight says:
What a great article! Those clocks are amazing!!
1 year ago
deepfried says:
Unexpected and what an amazing story!!! Really enjoyed reading this. xx
1 year ago
theelegantwall says:
Thank you so much for sharing that! Great article! Amazing carvings!
1 year ago
dkshopgirl says:
Amazing and stunning work. Lovely.
1 year ago
bunnywithatoolbelt says:
I'd love to see more articles like this on Etsy!
1 year ago
rolanddesigns says:
I love wood carving...
1 year ago
ChasingtheCrayon says:
I agree bunnywithatoolbelt...more like this please
1 year ago
ikabags says:
Amazing workship ! Thanks so much for sharing!
1 year ago
sillychic says:
Very fascinating. Can't imagine how one would ever achieve details like that in wood... Amazing!
1 year ago
hildes says:
Amazing work!
1 year ago
GollyBard says:
truly fantastic story!
1 year ago
nowonder says:
Stunning Work! Such great attension to details!
1 year ago
shabbychateau says:
What a wonderful family and such talent, thank you so much for sharing. bless you. Phillipa.
1 year ago
inthewineroom says:
Incredible artistry and a truly amazing story. Thanks for a great article.
1 year ago
MadelinesWardrobe says:
WOW! Absolutely incredible work - and all these details....
1 year ago
afiori says:
Interesting story!
1 year ago
LondonHandspun says:
Thank you! It’s more than just the amazing craftsmanship - it’s all that love too.
1 year ago
SizeMedium says:
Fascinating! Whenever I travel I am intrigued by clocks and doors :)
1 year ago
ekra says:
Thanks for sharing the museum and story with us!
1 year ago
NoahsUmbrella says:
How amazing!
1 year ago
EverybodyElse says:
That's such an amazing, touching story. Thank-you for sharing it with us.
1 year ago
flowerandpearlstudio says:
The brothers did their carvings only because they loved what they did. I have to wonder how much more they could have done if they had taken the million and not had to wait until winter to carve. Maybe they loved working on the farm just as much. The farm work must have provided what they needed emotionally and financially. It is so cool that it wasn't about the money.
1 year ago
tizme says:
Thank you for reminding me of the Bily clocks. I viewed them approx. 50 years ago, and as a teenager it was interesting, but now it is INCREDIBLE!! Now living in the south, I sincerely thank you for reminding me of the Bily clock museum, only one of many very special attractions found in Iowa, my home state.
1 year ago
KnittyVet says:
How lovely - and what an inspiration for the rest of us to fill those long winter hours with beautiful art!
1 year ago
aquintostudio says:
Thanks for sharing the Bily clocks!
1 year ago
debdeanart says:
The Bily Clock Museum is truly a treasure and the Etsy artists you've featured demonstrate the timelessness of the art of wood carving. Thank you for a fascinating story and showcasing these artists!
1 year ago
asundrynotion says:
Feature photo takes Steamboat Gothic scrollwork to a stratospheric level. To say the Bily Bros. were Master Craftsmen is an understatement. Their work is pure genius in every sense. Thanks so much, Linzee!
1 year ago
abrekhus says:
Thanks for the story... makes me homesick! We used to visit the Bily Clock Museum for class trips... and when my husband and I were dating in college he wrote an extensive research paper on Dvorak's time in Iowa, so we have spent some time in Spillville. I love Iowa and would move back in a heart beat. :)
1 year ago
macslass says:
what a great piece. I would love to visit there someday!!! Oh Did the Bily Brothers get the money that was in the attic.. Hope so!.
1 year ago
kathyjohnson3 says:
What beautiful craftmanship! Lovely designs, thank-you for the article!
1 year ago
anotherghostquilts says:
Linzee Great piece, as always. Thank you!
1 year ago
electricbluebird says:
What a fun story. I love the historical bent and yet the designs are timeless really.
1 year ago
pinksnakejewelry says:
Great Article! Amazing Clocks!!!! Someone should do a documentary on the Billy Brothers if one hasn't been done already! Fascinating!!
1 year ago
miznovember says:
This is truly amazing. The first time I have ever heard of them. Thank you so much for sharing this.
1 year ago
nachalgirl says:
Hey Linz--wonder if they ever carved with beaver spit or driftwood...Great article, I have got to take Dick there. Love, Susie
1 year ago
TinsAndThings says:
I can only echo what others have already said: wow, amazing, great art, great writing, and would love to see more articles like this!
1 year ago
lkmccray says:
Thanks for all the wonderful comments and so glad people enjoyed this story. I'm always inspired by people who are totally absorbed (perhaps obsessed?) with some singular aspect of life. That intense focus often leads to an amazing level of skill and knowledge, even if it does make for some quirky individuals! Someone mentioned that each time you'd look at these pieces you would see new things, and it's true. The docent who led me around the museum noticed something new the day I was there, and she'd been working there for six years.
1 year ago
julessabjewelry says:
Absolutely WONDERFUL craftsmanship! I love this shop! Thank you so much for introducing them to me!
1 year ago
RamshackleStudio says:
What a fantastic article (and an incredible honor to see a photo of one of our pieces on the same page!) The sheer amount of time and detail is astounding and awe-inspiring. Obviously we'll have to hop across the border for a visit!
1 year ago
RamshackleStudio says:
What a fantastic article (and an incredible honor to see a photo of one of our pieces on the same page)! The sheer amount of time and detail is astounding and awe-inspiring. Obviously we'll have to hop across the border for a visit!
1 year ago
KatarinasKorner says:
AWESOME STORY. The detail, craftmanship and creativity of those clocks is amazing! Very inspiring and interesting to read about.
1 year ago
ohbabydotcom says:
wonderful article. fantastic workmanship : )
1 year ago
treeoflifestudio says:
These clocks are amazing. This level of craftsmanship is hard to find in this day and age, except on Etsy.
1 year ago
jenmaestre says:
Thanks for one of the best articles I've ever seen in storque. I really enjoyed it.
1 year ago
Mamagen says:
Wonderful article, thank you.
1 year ago
ellaminnowpeadesigns says:
Truly fascinating!
1 year ago
Galozels says:
Thank you for sharing that! Those carvings are amazing!
1 year ago
LauraJer says:
Incredible, such detail and beauty. I know how hard it is to create lovely thing in wood as I have a store that sells wooden toys, http://woodentoygallery.co.uk but these are so much more detailed it's amazing! I love the name of the town too, so cute : )
1 year ago
juicejuice says:
I'm totally speechless. I cant believe how beautiful that is.
1 year ago
cimmerii says:
Incredible! It's like my Gramma's litte koo-koo clock on steroids!..... thanks for sharing.
1 year ago
tinygalaxies says:
Wow. Such amazing pieces!
1 year ago
AddisonsArmoire says:
I happen to travel to Germany one year. I was able to see how they make cuckoo clocks. Such detail goes into these clocks. AMAZING!
1 year ago
BlossomsBrooches says:
I'm amazed by the detail in these pieces! And to think some of it was done using a modified sewing machine - speechless!
1 year ago
JohnHarmonGallery says:
True American heroes!
1 year ago