Food, says Jessica Theroux, is part of our past, our present and our future. Her debut cookbook, Cooking With Italian Grandmothers, is a testament to this philosophy and to Italy’s famed food culture.
Today she’s here to tell us about the women she profiled and share a recipe she enjoyed in their care.
We’re excited that Welcome Books is offering Eatsy readers a 10% discount on her book. If you’re interested in buying a copy for yourself, take advantage of the offer by going to Welcomebooks.com and typing in the promo code: EATSY.
Over the course of a year, twelve Italian grandmothers taught me about the relationship between slow food and culture. Each, with an individual style and approach, left an impression on me that has lasted well beyond our time in the kitchen.
Carluccia, pictured here by her field of beans, taught me that a simple pot of shelling beans demands all sorts of considerations. She’d ask: Where are we in the season? Is the water hard or soft? Has the weather been damp or dry? Sunny or cold? Beans cook less evenly in water with high mineral content, and cooking time depends on how dry they are in the pod. Good cooking, good crafting, requires such considerations.
From Irene I understood that to master a dish you must understand it. While preparing her famed bagna cauda, pictured at right, she explained that its roots lie in the Ligurian-Piedmontese trade routes by which salt and anchovies were brought from the Ligurian coast to Langhe. Her bagna cauda, honest and unflinching, tasted of this journey. Understanding a dish’s history is essential, she explained.
Shortcuts had no place in the homes I entered during my pilgrimage. Each grandmother cooked for the love of food and feeding. Their approach was attentive and laborious. Raffaela’s ancient sourdough starter made glorious bread (pictured at top). She fed it daily and tended to it in her spare time. The resulting loaves, chewy, crunchy, airy, are the best I’ve had.
Nona Usha’s fluffy apple cake is baked from memory and intuition.
The women profiled in my book are keepers of Italy’s rich culinary traditions. In their hands, food became a gentle language that communicated love, place, work, generosity and identity. Cooking With Italian Grandmothers is a testament to them and the culinary traditions they maintain.
Armida’s Pinnolata (Pine Nut Biscuit Cake)
One homesick afternoon, I stopped by Armida’s house to sit with her quietly on the kitchen sofa. I told her I felt far from home and she drew me close. After a long period of silence she hoisted herself up out of the sofa and began fumbling around in cupboards for ingredients. She thought that her favorite dessert, a simple biscuit cake filled with pine nuts and lemon zest, was all I needed. She was right.
1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, softened
1/3 cup sugar
2 teaspoons lemon zest
1/4 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary
2 egg yolks
Pinch of salt
1 1/4 cups flour
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons lightly toasted pine nuts
1 egg white, for glazing the cake
1 tablespoon sugar, for cake top
Preheat your oven to 350 degrees and butter a 9-inch cake pan.
Cream together the soft butter and sugar. Then mix in the lemon zest, chopped rosemary, 2 egg yolks, and pinch of salt. Stir in the flour and ½ cup of the pine nuts. At a certain point, you may need to use your hands to form a coherent dough. Using your knuckles, press the dough into the cake pan to make a rough dough of even thickness. Cover closely with plastic wrap, and let the dough rest for at least half an hour and up to 24 hours.
Just before baking, sprinkle the dough with the remaining 2 tablespoons of pine nuts, brush with the egg white, and sprinkle with the tablespoon of sugar.
Bake the Pinnolata for 40 to 50 minutes, until the thin cake has turned a light nutty brown and is pulling away from the edges of the pan. Set aside to cool.
To serve, slice into thin wedges.
Kitty Greenwald, cook and author, coordinates all things Eatsy — our locally sourced food program. Through communal staff meals held around handmade farm tables, and via seasonal dishes shared with you on our blog, Eatsy aims to nourish and inspire through food.
Do you have culinary values of your own? Share in the comments below!
136 comments
Sign in to add your ownikabags says:
Super !
1 year ago
ikabags says:
This weekend I will try happily :))
1 year ago
VivaGailBeads says:
Thank you for the beautiful story, I can almost smell that bread baking, and those biscuits look wonderful
1 year ago
DecoFamara says:
Hoo Mama Mia!!!
1 year ago
cutiepiecompany says:
Lovely article, and yummy recipe--can't wait to try it. Thanks for sharing!
1 year ago
JoviesJewels says:
Loved this blog, miss my italian grandmother, thanks for the recipes, really want to try the biscuits.
1 year ago
dreamyvintage says:
I love Mediterranean food! Great article and you are so right about shortcuts.. Thank you for sharing :)
1 year ago
annawoz says:
Great article! Thank you :)
1 year ago
Colettesboutique says:
Wow! a new recipe to try. I looooove cooking and baking.
1 year ago
Floreal says:
Superb article.. Thanks..:)
1 year ago
Colettesboutique says:
Wow! a new recipe to try. I looooove cooking and baking.
1 year ago
Asianexpressions says:
Have to try this recipe!
1 year ago
pamwares says:
Great - little article! I made homemade pasta and tomato sauce this past weekend. Don't forget if you love to cook - check out all the beautiful handmade aprons on Etsy! So many to pick from for all styles and shops!
1 year ago
ArtisticIntentions says:
This is great!!
1 year ago
SpoonfulOfSugarShop says:
Looks so delicious.. I can't wait to try the recipe!! Thank you!
1 year ago
livingstonandporter says:
I don't have an italian grandma but I have a friend who's italian grandma passed along generations of treasured recipes....I'm so fortunate to have learned from them how to make homemade pasta! But most of all she passed along lots of love.
1 year ago
jenniferdennispotter says:
Oh, my gosh, I went to photography school in Maine with Jessie, the author. She's wonderful and deserves all the success she gets! The cookbook looks lovely and delicious!
1 year ago
nathalieortega says:
MMMmmmm...! I adore pine nuts, think I will try to make this recipe; I love the italian food!.
1 year ago
bhangtiez says:
Lovely.....
1 year ago
LuRuUniques says:
Great article. Wish I liked to cook!!!
1 year ago
woodendoll says:
thanks for the receipe
1 year ago
CarryTheWord says:
Wonderful article and recipe!
1 year ago
rarebeasts says:
Italian grandmothers give the best fruit and veggie advice.
1 year ago
TwistedCrystals says:
This is great :) I live for Italian food!
1 year ago
zwzzy says:
Yummmmy!! And YAY for Italians! ;D
1 year ago
Parachute425 says:
I love when other people cook for me. Wonderful article.
1 year ago
MegansMenagerie says:
Very nice article! I love Italian food!!!
1 year ago
lorenabr says:
Will try it out! Looks yum and I know it must be good! You can never go wrong with Italian Cuisine!
1 year ago
polkadotmagpie says:
Oooh, this is scrumpdillyicious! Can't wait to try these on my very Italian husband. Wonderful blog K.
1 year ago
craftpile says:
Oh yum!! I wish I had an italian grandma :)
1 year ago
Hagarae says:
Oh dear! There is nothig as good as fresh italian food! Can't wait to try it!
1 year ago
chifinds says:
Omg I am dying to try this! Wonderful article. :-)
1 year ago
lauraprill says:
Nobody in the whole world could cook like my Italian Grandma! Thanks for lovely article and recipe :)
1 year ago
sacredsuds says:
Oh. My. Goddess. This is like a shortbread with pine nuts, rosemary, and lemon zest - my favorite kind of cookie with three of my favorite ingredients. Laaaaaaaa!!! I cannot WAIT to try this! I even have all of these ingredients. I am so excited!
1 year ago
TheJoyofColor says:
Fantastic going to keep it and try the recipe I love so much Italian food (and italy) Thank you for sharing
1 year ago
AZCreativeStudio says:
Lovely story!
1 year ago
VelvetBitchOriginals says:
YUM! Food is Good...Pine nut cake! :D Great article!
1 year ago
ourfrontyard says:
What a great recipe. thank you. Slow cooking is much healthier, you can't do that with a microwave. :)
1 year ago
cardinalhouse says:
I miss Italy! I took a summer course in Urbino + even the cafeteria's food was spectacular - how wrong is that!? xoxo -Kat.
1 year ago
element33 says:
I've been living in Sicily for about two months now and this article really captured the happy feel you get when implanted in this great culture.
1 year ago
urbanheirlooms says:
Yummy! I was kinda hoping for a recipe for that apple cake...
1 year ago
TheEvesLikeUs says:
Wouldn't want to leave the kitchen!
1 year ago
smeastman says:
The book looks fabulous. Just purchased it; thank you so much for the discount!!
1 year ago
susissatchels says:
Food! Glorious food! Where is that apple cake recipe?
1 year ago
candyalicedesigns says:
wonderful article ! I am going to ask for this book as a birthday gift. thank you .
1 year ago
maggiemaevintage says:
mama mia!!
1 year ago
thelittlereddoor says:
this was wonderful to read. mangia mangia!
1 year ago
alibli says:
If you are not used to garlic be careful with bagna cauda! We (Italians) sure can cook... ;)
1 year ago
MonkeysOnTheRoof says:
Fantastic! Love trying new recipes and especially ones that come from great cooks! And Grandmothers are the BEST!
1 year ago
inthewineroom says:
Mangia bene!
1 year ago
coffeesmybag says:
I want to make that recipe! *yum!*
1 year ago
juliesadorabowls says:
Can't wait to read the book and try some recipes!
1 year ago
Ciaffi says:
Complimenti!!! Bellissimo articolo!!! :-) :-)
1 year ago
sweetjane says:
It sounds like a wonderful cookbook...and a wonderful trip to Italy. Good luck to you!
1 year ago
LetangStudiosJewelry says:
Looks and sounds delicious!
1 year ago
branda says:
Viva l'Italia!!!
1 year ago
littleredmercantile says:
mangia mangia!
1 year ago
jennifermorrisbeads says:
the slow cooking, using their intuition with the food, carrying on the traditions, the gorgeous recipes, it's all so beautiful! i can't wait to read the cookbook!
1 year ago
poedra says:
Love the article! "Armida’s Pinnolata" looks delish... will be our sweet of the day!!!
1 year ago
SavannahGuz says:
Fantastic article and beautiful pics!! Thank you so much for sharing!
1 year ago
breadandroses2 says:
The apple cake looks delicious. Recipe, please?
1 year ago
pmastanford says:
You brought back alot of good memories of baking with my Nona! Thank you!
1 year ago
prettydreamer says:
Wonderful post ... loved every bit! Thank you!
1 year ago
vivikas says:
awesome!!
1 year ago
NaiyaArtBoutique says:
Unfortunately I am on a weight loss program and can not indulge in those calories.. but this looks utterly tempting!!
1 year ago
luckigurl says:
Wow. This book sounds absolutely beautiful! Thanks for another great Eatsy.
1 year ago
pogoshop says:
I'm with Jessica. That pinnolata would definitely cheer me up too. I'm going to try it tomorrow. My favorite part of this post though is the photo of Carluccia, with her cast iron pot, the dog lying on the beans, and the cutest little blue truck ever.
1 year ago
AvianInspirations says:
Wow. I am buying this cook book.
1 year ago
hankietankie says:
sounds like an amazing cookbook filled with italian mama soul...lovely! xo
1 year ago
treeoflifestudio says:
I am so glad that the slow food movement is catching on everywhere!
1 year ago
bovinebubbles says:
yummy........there goes the 6 weeks of bootcamp i have endured :)
1 year ago
weatheredsilo says:
fantastic post!
1 year ago
CheersToJuly says:
Gives me a little rumbly in my tummy! Love this article :D
1 year ago
accentonvintage says:
Thanks for sharing! You have some great recipes!
1 year ago
naturechild says:
Wonderful article, I love Pizza and Pasta, and Antipasti, and I like to cook, but only veggie!!! I have a very great book about cook and love,...passionate and indecent:) "La cucina" from Lily Prior.
1 year ago
sweetsmilesbaby says:
Love my Nonna's cooking, and I love Italy. Thanks for showing your appreciation of that lifestyle.
1 year ago
rrizzart says:
I still use recipes (unwritten, of course) from my Italian Grandmas & Great-Grandmas. Food in Italian homes sustains not only the body, but the soul. Viva l'Italia!
1 year ago
vintageprecious says:
Love the title! Thanks!
1 year ago
tiemee says:
What an experience!!
1 year ago
babybayrs says:
I love all things nuts. Will try this recipe. Thanks.
1 year ago
EsmeDodsworthDesign says:
such a lovely post, my nanna is Italian and I have learnt so much from her, from her lovely cooking to her sewing and crochet. Especially her take on pasta fagioli its the best comfort food :-)
1 year ago
LittleWrenPottery says:
That looks lovely, I do love italian cooking fabulous!
1 year ago
dkshopgirl says:
lovely article - thank you.
1 year ago
EphemeraAndMore says:
Love the story! Thanks!
1 year ago
GaGa4GiftTags says:
Great story! So many memories relate back to food and the kitchen. The recipe sounds so good! Thanks for sharing it with us!
1 year ago
JaniceCordeiro says:
I can almost smell the good aromas of great Italian cooking.
1 year ago
DesiCloe says:
I'm happy of how many people love my country! For italians cooking is like a form of art and I think you represent pefectly this mood!
1 year ago
marcomagro says:
Thank you to Kitty and Jessica to have done this wonderful tribute to our mithological grandma...
1 year ago
coffeesmybag says:
I went to 'welcomebooks' website and watched Jessica's 24 min video - it was so cool! I'm definitely going to order her book today!
1 year ago
SimplyDivineDesserts says:
This is wonderful and makes me miss my Italian grandmother (Nettie), who taught me and my sisters how to make the best meatballs!!
1 year ago
SimplyDivineDesserts says:
This is wonderful and makes me miss my Italian grandmother (Nettie), who taught me and my sisters how to make the best meatballs!!
1 year ago
Silvia66 says:
Thank you for this tribute to Italian food. Article interesting and inspiring photos!
1 year ago
Morado says:
This made me super hungry and its only 8.30am!!
1 year ago
badcatjewelry says:
Fantastic read...a lot of love goes into cooking and I'm envious of Jessie's experiences.
1 year ago
econica says:
love Italian cuisine! thank you so much for a great article!
1 year ago
stonecraft says:
Such a perfect article for the Fall season - I feel cozy!
1 year ago
baconsquarefarm says:
Love goes into cooking thanks for sharing your experiences jessica good luck with your book too. :)
1 year ago
anek says:
"Food is part of our past", so beautifully said. Grandmothers are such inspiration and source of wisdom. My granny is marvelous cook as well, she tought me almost everything I know about ingredients, seasonal dishes, all that important tips and tricks, and to honoring nature and food in general. I have a big passion for italian way of cooking and their beautiful tradition and culture, many thanks for this warm and wonderful story! p.s. Armida’s Pinnolata - will try it this weekend, no doubt it will be delicious!
1 year ago
thelittlemarket says:
How wonderful! Off to share this article with friends! Thanks!
1 year ago
SusanKJewelry says:
what a wonderful story............i hope to hear more!
1 year ago
CutesyGirls says:
Great article! Can't wait to try the recipe this weekend!
1 year ago
innamorataitaly says:
Food in Italy is not only and simply nourishment, it is a fundamental aspect of our culture. I regret every single day that I never wrote out the recipes of my grandmothers before they passed away! this is something everyone should do, before it's too late!
1 year ago
shopgoodgrace says:
Wonderful!! It sounds like the year with 12 grandmothers (chef's in their own right!) was a wonderful experience. :) I really want to try these recipes!! Thank you for sharing!
1 year ago
tatimaia says:
I wish I have an italian grandma... :'(
1 year ago
stellasavestheday says:
Oh, I love this...I married into a fabulous Italian family and I am paying close attention in the kitchen! This will make a great gift at Christmas!
1 year ago
ParisianDreams says:
I love Italian food! The photos of the desserts look fabulous.
1 year ago
felicitycrew says:
Inspiring story. Thanks for sharing!
1 year ago
lazydayz says:
yum!!!!!! I want some Pinnolata, someone cook it here on etsy?? :)
1 year ago
weezieduzzit says:
I can't wait to make that beautiful Pinnolata for my Italian honey this weekend! Thank you Jessica for sharing your experience with us- I look forward to seeing the cookbook and of course to Kitty for bringing us another great feature. I really enjoy Eatsy!
1 year ago
myvintagecrush says:
I love my little Romanian grandma!! We can learn so much from grandma's everywhere
1 year ago
girltuesdayjewelry says:
Beautiful article! I felt like I was in Italy with you. What a wonderful experience! That pine nut dessert is going in my recipe box for sure. Thank you!
1 year ago
ReCultivation says:
Having lost my Nonna (Italian for grandmother)2 months ago, I was deeply touched by this piece. I learned much of my cooking and love for the vintage kitchen from her. It put a smile on my face thinking about my own memories in our Italian kitchen. Looking forward to the book. Thank you.
1 year ago
JustSmashingDarling says:
I made the Pine Nut cake tonight for friends and it was a huge hit. Not one slice left.
1 year ago
TheBloomingThread says:
what a great read...my grandmother use to cook evening dinners like she was cooking a feast every night. i wish she was still here to teach me her recipes and traditions. Thanks for the inspiration to get together with my mother to write them all down~
1 year ago
davita says:
So proud to have my "Grandmother's House" photograph included in such a delicious storque! To celebrate, I shall EAT! :)
1 year ago
jadjusjewelry says:
Very nice!!!
1 year ago
nowonder says:
I love Italian food. Good luck with the book! thanks for the recipe.
1 year ago
TheSteelFork says:
beautiful idea. loved reading this, particularly "to master a dish you must understand it." thank you!
1 year ago
PucksWildApothecary says:
Wonderful recipes!
1 year ago
PaperPicker says:
Sounds wonderful! thanks for sharing a recipe with us.
1 year ago
AnnTig says:
Great article :)
1 year ago
redemptionart says:
Sweet! I am getting the book, nothing like grandmother's cooking.. Buon Appetito
1 year ago
GoldhawkPotteryEtc says:
What a great story! I will have to get the book. My life is all about cooking and pottery so this is an important connection for me.
1 year ago
cozycomfycouch says:
Really lovely!
1 year ago
weezieduzzit says:
I finally had time to make it.... YUM!!!!!! Its so easy and soooooo good!
1 year ago
Relydesign says:
Great tribute to the yummy Italian food :=)
1 year ago
elettrarossa says:
I'm Italian and... it has been a pleasure to read your story....I sympathize with your sketch of our grandmothers! They make the kitchen a magic place!
1 year ago
SeasonsOfJoy says:
Kitty, Thank-you for this heartwarming article. It makes me feel all warm and fuzzy, and it helps keep me on my mission to simplify, and create memorable moments in every day, and to be sure the time and love is taken in my meal preparation. Of course, thanks to Jessica for the journey, and the book, it will be on my Christmas wish list!
1 year ago
annaaizic says:
I enjoyed so much to read your story...I am not an Italian, f I was born in Odessa...but the family and cooking with grandma seems international feeling of love, gread memories and values we all cherish... thanks for sweet memories lol anna
1 year ago
chefrepublic says:
What an amazing story! I was so excited to read about this because I was just in Piedmont, and it is such a wonderful place. I was fortunate enough to stay with a warm and welcoming family in Ivrea. The bagna cauda is so strong, but so yummy. I also visited Liguria, specifically the cinque terre. The food is incredible, so fresh, and always made with love. I went on some slow food adventures which you can check out on my blog, http://thechefrepublic.com/?p=762. Also here are some photos from my trip http://www.flickr.com/photos/thechefrepublic/ thanks for a wonderful post, Arielle
1 year ago
xandercreation says:
beautiful article !!!... we are what we eat .... I love watching when my grandmother or my mom cooking ...
1 year ago
xandercreation says:
beautiful article !!!... we are what we eat .... I love watching when my grandmother or my mom cooking ...
1 year ago
autumnvelvetrose says:
YUMMERS!!!
1 year ago
DEBBIEMCOLUMBIA says:
SOOOOOOOOOOOOO GOOOOOOOOD!!!!
1 year ago
OliveandOwl says:
Lovely article. Now if only the younger generation would keep up on these traditions. Unfortunately they are taking to the American life style of all store bought food...
1 year ago
ChatterBoxArt says:
Such a sweet story and we are all greatful for those around us who help us through homesick times. This recipie sounds and looks wonderful. I can't wait to try it.
1 year ago