Espalore: The Making of a Tutu

Angela Friedman, a.k.a. Espalore, was recently featured in the bi-annual arts and culture journal Dossier. Not only does this talented seamstress create custom corsets for her Etsy shop, she also designs costumes for the New York City Ballet.

My name is Angela Friedman and I am a custom corsetmaker and the ladies’ department draper in the New York City Ballet costume shop. I’m originally from Chicago. I now live in the heart of New York City in a little walk-up apartment with my cat Clarence and I rent a studio space in an art gallery for my freelance work. My work at the ballet is a 9-5 day job so in the evenings and weekends I fill my free time with all sorts of projects, from burlesque costumes to Fashion Week to custom lingerie. I’m a bit of a workaholic, but there’s nothing wrong with that when you love your job so much!

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When I’m working on corsets I like to think of myself as a technical designer. I don’t like to emphasize the design part of my work when I describe myself because I think the actual garment construction is much more interesting. All of my designs come from a very analytical standpoint, and that’s why they are so clean-cut and streamlined. I like to think that my work is always able to be dressed up or down depending on the occasion. It’s very important for me to create pieces that are versatile and still funky and fresh. No one wants to wear the kind of undergarments her grandmother had!

The corset was traditionally a symbol of female oppression, but I want to present it as a demonstration of a woman’s power and strength and a way to make every woman feel beautiful and confident about her body.
corset4.jpg
I construct all of my corsets out of the best quality materials I can find. Unfortunately, this drives the cost up quite a bit — as high as $100 in materials alone for my fancier models — but my clients are very understanding; they don’t want the cheap lingerie you can get at a discount department store! Because I focus so much on the technical side of my work, I place the most importance on sturdy fabrics and real steel boning so that these garments will last forever and withstand the abuse that any lady puts on her clothing. I work primarily in silks and many women are quite fond of brocades, but since my corsets are custom-made I often try new things or work with fabrics that fit my clients’ taste. Since it is a very time-consuming process (about 12 hours for my very simplest corset, and many are 20+ hours!), I’m currently only producing about one corset a month. In the summer, which is the NYC Ballet off-season, I’ll produce as many as six in that time.

With the NYC Ballet I work to create new costumes and recreate old ones for all of our ballets. This spring season we’re putting up forty pieces (including seven new ones!), so you can imagine how busy I am! I am the draper in my department, which means that I make all of the patterns, conduct fittings and meetings, discuss designs with the costume director, Marc Happel, and the designers, and direct others in the construction of our tutus and dance dresses. In the ladies’ department there is also a first hand (who has been there longer than almost anyone, nine years, so she knows all of the ins and outs) and six stitchers.

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We often revive old ballets that Balanchine did in the ’50s and ’60s, so there is a lot of reevaluating what costume designer Karinska would have wanted. We also do new ballets, so there is the opportunity to work with new designers and choreographers. Sometimes when an old ballet goes up, it’s been redone recently enough (say, 2005 or so) that we don’t have to deal with it. Other times we just make a new principal tutu, or rebuild a section of the show (like the party dresses for The Nutcracker).

tutu5.jpg
We never have the luxury of working with as much time (or money) as we would ideally want, so it’s a great exercise in budgeting resources! Even though we don’t put our dancers in corsets, building a tutu is very much like my freelance Etsy work because we use a lot of the same materials (even steel boning) and fit those garments quite snug. Additionally, working with dancers can teach you a lot about movement in clothing. (Of course my corsetry clients aren’t going to expect to be able to move as easily in a corset as they might in a t-shirt, but they do appreciate that I know how to comfortably fit a very tight garment in such a way that they are allowed as much flexibility as possible.) In the end, all of the work that I do is so similar. That’s the best part about being an artist: your entire life is a learning process and nothing is ever finalized. There’s always room to improve and make the next project even better!

Check out this wonderful behind-the-scenes look at the costume shop of the NYC Ballet.

Lingerie Category | Etsy Videos | Fashion Posts

  • sarahknightdesign

    sarahknightdesign says:

    Whew! What a process:) A lot of love goes into making these corsets, thanks for showing the creative process. It just gives us a great respect for the creator. Wonderful feature!

    2 years ago

  • 6catsart

    6catsart says:

    Wow those are amazing. What an interesting and unique job. Angela you are very talented. Thanks for the insight into world of costume making and the ballet.

    2 years ago

  • maechevrette

    maechevrette says:

    This was such an interesting article... I had no idea how much time and work went into these, especially more upscale pieces. I love that she gets to be creative in her "day job" and through her Etsy freelancing. Amazing work :)

    2 years ago

  • allwithlove

    allwithlove says:

    beauiful!

    2 years ago

  • Myhaleygirl

    Myhaleygirl says:

    your work is truly artistry. Absolutely divine.

    2 years ago

  • dreamyvintage

    dreamyvintage says:

    I love your creations, they are so dreamy!

    2 years ago

  • phydeaux

    phydeaux says:

    Absolutely fascinating!!

    2 years ago

  • hankietankie

    hankietankie says:

    Your work is GORGEOUS!!! Thanks for the lovely article!

    2 years ago

  • marymaryAdmin

    marymary says:

    Wow, these videos were truly captivating!

    2 years ago

  • AnodynePress

    AnodynePress says:

    That is really cool. I feel all girly and frilly now.

    2 years ago

  • paramountvintage

    paramountvintage says:

    fascinating!!!

    2 years ago

  • Thepaperboat

    Thepaperboat says:

    Oh Angela, you are a fairy living in a fairy world!

    2 years ago

  • firewoodfurniture

    firewoodfurniture says:

    Wow! What a fascinating article and beautiful work! Thank you for sharing this.

    2 years ago

  • OpulentOddities

    OpulentOddities says:

    So beautiful!!

    2 years ago

  • PoppySprouts

    PoppySprouts says:

    Love this! Love TuTus they are so fun to make:)

    2 years ago

  • penguinandfish

    penguinandfish says:

    amazing. Now I wish I could make tutus all day. How wonderful.

    2 years ago

  • EJPcreations

    EJPcreations says:

    How lovely!

    2 years ago

  • RoyalBebeShoppe

    RoyalBebeShoppe says:

    Angela, your work is stunning. As a former ballet dancer I appreciate your fantastic ability to design gorgeous costumes. Thank you for sharing :)

    2 years ago

  • thecrochetloft

    thecrochetloft says:

    nice corsets

    2 years ago

  • mlcrowell

    mlcrowell says:

    If I could only hook it up! They are beautiful, thank you for sharing.

    2 years ago

  • ViviansKitchen

    ViviansKitchen says:

    So incredible! My mom used to make my ballet costumes when I was a kid and I know how much effort and love goes into all of this. Just Beautiful!!!!

    2 years ago

  • labellefairy

    labellefairy says:

    thanks for sharing, really inspiring!

    2 years ago

  • laurastark

    laurastark says:

    What a fantastic feature into something so esoteric. It really made me appreciate the craft even more. She also has a fantastic voice, very easy to listen to her speak about her craft.

    2 years ago

  • labellefairy

    labellefairy says:

    Inspiring thanks for sharing!

    2 years ago

  • buddyxdesigns

    buddyxdesigns says:

    exquisite work!

    2 years ago

  • shirinki

    shirinki says:

    what a fantastic post! so inspiring and amazing to see how much work and attention to detail goes into her pieces. I love it! Agree with the previous poster, this is like living in a fairy tale world. Again, really inspiring.

    2 years ago

  • happilybecki

    happilybecki says:

    This was so interesting to read. I've always found corsets to be enchanting.

    2 years ago

  • 2treasurehunt

    2treasurehunt says:

    Great Article, great tubes.

    2 years ago

  • zwzzy

    zwzzy says:

    Awww, I miss being a dancer and wearing crazy tutus!

    2 years ago

  • Iovelycrochet

    Iovelycrochet says:

    Love tutus..amazing work..!!

    2 years ago

  • viltalakim

    viltalakim says:

    wouw, I always dreamed of becoming a professional ballerina and wear tutu's like this, amazing, Thanks for sharing!!!!!

    2 years ago

  • maggiemaevintage

    maggiemaevintage says:

    incredible! what a wonderfrul talent, loved seeing your beautiful creations!

    2 years ago

  • vintagelizzy

    vintagelizzy says:

    fantastic crafting :)

    2 years ago

  • seragun

    seragun says:

    Great and fantastic work

    2 years ago

  • Bailoutabarista

    Bailoutabarista says:

    Fabulous video and shop. I appreciate all the hard work and talent in making your tutus. Brought back memories of my tutus I made for a skating pageant. They were cute, but not as elaborate as yours. You made my "heart" List.

    2 years ago

  • recycledwares

    recycledwares says:

    I was surprised how small that woman looked in the corset, sounded like she was surprised too. maybe i need one :)

    2 years ago

  • friedasophie

    friedasophie says:

    Fantastic article, thank you for the inspiration

    2 years ago

  • birchbeerboutique

    birchbeerboutique says:

    etsy may i tell you how impressed i am in your incredible new direction? there is a place wherein art meets craft and steadily etsy is becoming that place.

    2 years ago

  • ClementinesJewelry

    ClementinesJewelry says:

    So interesting!

    2 years ago

  • birchbeerboutique

    birchbeerboutique says:

    um...did i forget to mention that espalore is my number 1 favorite shop? i have an "espalore savings account" at my bank that my husband knows nothing about.

    2 years ago

  • ArtisticIntentions
  • pocketcarnival

    pocketcarnival says:

    Amazing! I LOVED the 2nd video!

    2 years ago

  • MagicMarkingsArt

    MagicMarkingsArt says:

    A friend of ours dances for the New York Baroque Dance Company, I wonder if you've ever made her costumes. How absolutely cool! I am passing on your name to her.

    2 years ago

  • karenmeyers

    karenmeyers says:

    great work, the videos sent shivers up my spine!

    2 years ago

  • pinkytoeclothing

    pinkytoeclothing says:

    Incredible! The videos are wonderful!

    2 years ago

  • LadybugSF

    LadybugSF says:

    I'm totally geeking out on this. Love it.

    2 years ago

  • ZigZags123

    ZigZags123 says:

    wow, tht is amazing stuff! And what an AWESOME opportunity to work for the NYC Ballet! No wonder you enjoy your job!

    2 years ago

  • princessdoodlebeans

    princessdoodlebeans says:

    Incredible. Makes me super glad I make them for a living. Three cheers for TUTUS!!

    2 years ago

  • HibouCards

    HibouCards says:

    wow! Such amazing skills, you are super talented and everything you make is beautiful! I love corsets and I would buy one from you in an instant if I had the money to spare right now... but I DO keep it on my list :) I WILL get one for sure. I also love ballet so of course I was sold right away :) I've done ballet for a good 10 years and each time I see a ballet at the opera or on tv it still gives me goose bumps and I miss it :) Thanks for sharing such a great story! Anne-Claire aka Hibou

    2 years ago

  • Parachute425

    Parachute425 says:

    A true artist, craftsmen, technician! Wonderful work. Nice video. Much luck to you.

    2 years ago

  • ToadLillie

    ToadLillie says:

    Loved learning about you, Angela! Your work is just gorgeous! What a wonderful story. Best of luck!

    2 years ago

  • ToadLillie

    ToadLillie says:

    So happy to learn of you, Angela! What a wonderful story. I am truly impressed! Best of luck to you!

    2 years ago

  • VerreDesign

    VerreDesign says:

    Fabulous!!

    2 years ago

  • WoollyPoPo

    WoollyPoPo says:

    Inspiring videos! Right now I'm wishing I had insisted on going into costume design when I was 18. *sigh*

    2 years ago

  • crazyartdolls

    crazyartdolls says:

    gorgeous and exquisite

    2 years ago

  • gailfrienddesigns

    gailfrienddesigns says:

    What a great post. Such talent and beautiful designs :)

    2 years ago

  • Espalore

    Espalore says:

    Thank you all for your kind and refreshing comments. I am so pleased to hear that my work may be inspiring to others! Thank you especially to Tara for featuring me - you're wonderful! Angela

    2 years ago

  • VintiqueVixenVintage

    VintiqueVixenVintage says:

    Incredible!

    2 years ago

  • VintiqueVixenVintage

    VintiqueVixenVintage says:

    Wow, what incredible talent, and stunning creations!

    2 years ago

  • stockwellcottage

    stockwellcottage says:

    Exquisitely feminine! This is beauty that comes from good design as well as caring and precise craftsmanship. Bravo!

    2 years ago

  • JessicaTorrant

    JessicaTorrant says:

    So romantic to go behind the scenes of the ballet. Wonderful videos and blog post!

    2 years ago

  • PyxusPassionProject

    PyxusPassionProject says:

    Wow - fantastic... It was great to see the work in progress in that video. Superb work!!

    2 years ago

  • BenandJess

    BenandJess says:

    Amazing

    2 years ago

  • MeadowbelleMarket

    MeadowbelleMarket says:

    This reminds us what passion and work goes into a ballet performance from a totally new perspective! It's simply stunning that the end result is always one of complete perfection and ease. Wonderful to understand how all the pieces fit together.

    2 years ago

  • CrossExtreme

    CrossExtreme says:

    One day I am going to buy those ruffled panties... They're gorgeous.

    2 years ago

  • PineappleHappy

    PineappleHappy says:

    That video was beautiful and the corsets are amazing.

    2 years ago

  • artbywinona

    artbywinona says:

    I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE THIS!!! Thank you so much for sharing. If I had more time in my life I would have been a ballerina and an artist. I wish I could do it all....

    2 years ago

  • rakshniyavintage

    rakshniyavintage says:

    that is so awesome - corsets are one of the best fashion accessories (that ow I see them anyway) that help a woman feel feminine and sexy. That's so interesting.

    2 years ago

  • Annadsouza

    Annadsouza says:

    Thank you for sharing such a great article - it explains so well the care that goes into the making of corsets.

    2 years ago

  • nowonder

    nowonder says:

    So so beautiful!

    2 years ago

  • BellyAntButton

    BellyAntButton says:

    I absolutely love these! Wow, they are incredible.

    2 years ago

  • lucillejean

    lucillejean says:

    All your work is so beautiful! I loved reading the article, not only because I have always loved ballet and tutus...but for my senior project in college I created three. They were not as professional or beautiful as yours and I didn't have as many resources, but I loved the outcome anyway! It was hard work and I really admire what you do :)

    2 years ago

  • kpersonboutique

    kpersonboutique says:

    Absolutely love your works! Good luck!

    2 years ago

  • OsoVictoria

    OsoVictoria says:

    Great video! Love the work you are doing and your lovely creations. My step mother was a ballerina at Rockerfella Center back in the day. My dad named the boat he built Tutu. They lived in Puerto Rico. Thanks for sharing!

    2 years ago

  • SweetAndKindOf

    SweetAndKindOf says:

    What an incredible job! So inspiring...

    2 years ago

  • Iammie

    Iammie says:

    Beautiful!

    2 years ago

  • ShimmeringSky

    ShimmeringSky says:

    What beautiful garments, and such a fascinating video into the process of making those exquisite costumes. Brava!!

    2 years ago

  • grandmamarievintage

    grandmamarievintage says:

    Magical garments!

    2 years ago

  • CheekyVintageCloset

    CheekyVintageCloset says:

    Wonderful items! great information

    2 years ago

  • FizzBrushHetty

    FizzBrushHetty says:

    Thank you so much. I love corsets. I have admired your shop. All the best to you. Hetty

    2 years ago

  • javagirls

    javagirls says:

    Your talent is amazing.

    2 years ago

  • creativebusybee

    creativebusybee says:

    Nice video, love how they recraft some of the old costumes. Very intersting. Thanks for sharing.

    2 years ago

  • kirbyvintage

    kirbyvintage says:

    LOVE this! Corsetry and costuming has always been one of my great passions, and I loved the behind the scenes video. Espalore does beautiful work!

    2 years ago

  • VelvetBitchOriginals

    VelvetBitchOriginals says:

    Your work is Simply Beautiful! Thanks so much for sharing such a great story and video! I had the privilege one Christmas to work backstage on costumes for PNB's Nutcracker and fell crazy in love with ballet!!!

    2 years ago

  • streetnoodles

    streetnoodles says:

    who knew tutus had a shelf-life!

    2 years ago

  • LillysWorkshop

    LillysWorkshop says:

    Would have read this soon if I knew it emphasized corsets! So lovely to see and read about my fellow corsetmakers.

    2 years ago

  • alex321

    alex321 says:

    wow , so sexy

    2 years ago

  • VerteAdelie

    VerteAdelie says:

    Thank you for that very interesting and inspiring post! (I could watch that kind of videos for hours :))

    2 years ago

  • hautecountryvintage

    hautecountryvintage says:

    Gorgeousness!

    2 years ago

  • jodieflowers

    jodieflowers says:

    oo la la! Love them all!

    2 years ago

  • Vintage50sEyewear

    Vintage50sEyewear says:

    Soooooo Beautiful!!

    2 years ago

  • greentrunkclothing

    greentrunkclothing says:

    What an awsome job! What a talented lady. Thanks for sharing Angela!

    2 years ago

  • ModernMetalJewelry

    ModernMetalJewelry says:

    Simply a great post and video!

    2 years ago

  • Chandeluse

    Chandeluse says:

    incredible detail, impeccable workmanship. The epitome of all that is femininity. Thank you for your very professional video. Your own works are art.

    2 years ago

  • chenzi

    chenzi says:

    The article and videos are so interesting!

    2 years ago

  • sparklesandangels

    sparklesandangels says:

    I adore ballet! The costumes, the lighting, the dancers and the dance... It nourishes my soul. Thank you for the beauty and the joy.

    2 years ago

  • topsyturvydesign

    topsyturvydesign says:

    Wonderful!! I want to play in your studio!!!!

    2 years ago

  • bedbuggs

    bedbuggs says:

    Love your work, thanks for sharing!

    2 years ago

  • PoorJean

    PoorJean says:

    Beautiful work! Your experience and professionalism give me something to aspire towards :-)

    2 years ago

  • bontonvintage

    bontonvintage says:

    Just beautiful!! Every girl dreams of wearing a tutu!!

    2 years ago

  • binkaminka

    binkaminka says:

    wow totally awesome!

    2 years ago

  • LittleWrenPottery

    LittleWrenPottery says:

    Great selection I love corsets, I have loads in my wardrobe!

    2 years ago

  • OhMafelt

    OhMafelt says:

    to dance may be divine....i would prefer to create the costumes. imagine the wardrobe you could create with these skills. thanks for sharing.

    2 years ago

  • Beadymonkey

    Beadymonkey says:

    Wonderful article. It is an amazing amount of work that goes into the creation of tutus and corsets, but they are so much fun to wear! WEE!

    2 years ago

  • imaginebelievecreate

    imaginebelievecreate says:

    Great story. Love the behind the scenes video of the costume shop!

    2 years ago

  • madebyferdy

    madebyferdy says:

    tks ,you are a very professional artist, my compliments

    2 years ago

  • starfalljewelry

    starfalljewelry says:

    I love your creations and your knowledge on the subject. Between the wardrobe you create at your day job and your passion for your etsy store, I'm surprised you have even a moment to breathe. Keep going, these are amazing!

    2 years ago

  • electradesigns

    electradesigns says:

    I love this video and I am so thrilled that you are receiving the recognition you deserve.

    2 years ago

  • elemegibere

    elemegibere says:

    Thank you and good luck for more information

    2 years ago

  • designedbags123

    designedbags123 says:

    Way to go Espalore! Beautiful corsets!

    2 years ago

  • OhOhMary

    OhOhMary says:

    Fascinating! and rather gorgeous as well.

    2 years ago

  • Wordsnob

    Wordsnob says:

    Oh Angela! I'm so proud of you girl!

    2 years ago

  • kadydesigns

    kadydesigns says:

    Wow what a great job you have! Both my girls are dancers, one with Atlanta Ballet and one currently at the Walnut Hill School for the Arts for ballet. We Love Tutu's and have kept everyone they've ever had. Beautiful Work!!!!

    2 years ago

  • DalkullanJewelry

    DalkullanJewelry says:

    Very interesting article! Thanks for sharing what goes into making a corset and a tutu! Stunning work!

    1 year ago

  • prendasbyenid

    prendasbyenid says:

    Great article!!! Love it!!!

    1 year ago

  • thebeadgirl

    thebeadgirl says:

    ok...i want to be you when i grow up!!! amazing!

    1 year ago

  • TutusChic

    TutusChic says:

    I have admired your work for a long time on Etsy and have great respect for anyone who works for NYCB! Just love all of Mme. Karinska's designs. She was an inspiration for me always even before making tutus. Thanks for sharing a peek into your work and life.

    1 year ago

  • LSDrewGraphics

    LSDrewGraphics says:

    Great work and videos! Before I went back to my screenprinting, I did art-for-the-body sculptural constructed-surface pieces (mostly out of found objects, rather untraditional) and dreamed of working in a costumer's shop. The behind-the-scenes stuff is thrilling and educational. Thanks for showing it!

    1 year ago

  • darkponydesigns

    darkponydesigns says:

    I really enjoyed this article and the videos were amazing. Great work Angela, I am in awe. Long live the tutu! xoxo Robin

    1 year ago

  • sierra4emu

    sierra4emu says:

    I so want a pair of the ruffle panties...are no longer making them?

    1 year ago

  • PurpleRosesPR

    PurpleRosesPR says:

    That was very cool to see! I love the ballet & the costumes! To see it from that perspective was very neat!

    1 year ago

  • DarwinsDress

    DarwinsDress says:

    So Beautiful!! Thank you for sharing! Love the Ballet and Corsets too!

    1 year ago