After several years of interning for fashion designers, working in costume departments, and training at Central Saint Martins College, Anna decided it was time to start her own fashion label. She now creates made-to-measure womenswear from scratch in her London studio, which she sells through her Etsy shop, annapopovich.
Today she shares the story behind the dress. That is to say, her personal process of designing and making that goes into each and every one of her creations.
Inspiration can come from anywhere — I often find abstract things a good place to start. My S/S collection began with an article in Fashion Theory called “Showing and Hiding,” examining garments which cover the body while drawing attention to particular areas (such as, ahem, the codpiece…). Taking this idea of covering in order to reveal, I looked at intricate drawings of human muscle structure and used the patterns I found in them to re-cover the body. The most literal example is my Marlon bodice, closely based on the muscle structure of the male torso.
[Anna's muscle structure research, left, which inspired her Marlon Bodice, right.]
Next, I collect images — postcards, newspaper cuttings, photocopies, and my own scribbles. I like to put them on the wall in my studio, shuffle them around and start to pick out common threads as well as juxtapositions which I think will translate well. From these ideas I’ll draw hundreds of garment designs which I then edit down. As I’m doing this, I’m also thinking about colours and will be collecting fabric and trimming samples.
Before getting too set on how a dress is going to look, I’ll start draping fabric on a mannequin to help me think in 3D. You can have some wonderful accidents while just playing around with a length of fabric and a handful of pins. I’ll take photos at every stage and add them to the research pile. Through sketching, draping and collage, I gradually refine my ideas into the finished drawings of the collection. Then I’m ready to start pattern making.
[Early stages of draping Marilyn Dress on the mannequin.]
The next bit makes my head hurt, but is so satisfying to get right. There are two main methods for making patterns, and most of my pieces will be a mixture of the two. The first involves manipulating basic bodice, skirt and sleeve “blocks” (2D card templates) to add volume, details and place seam lines. The other method is draping cheap fabric such as calico or muslin onto a mannequin and then cutting, pleating, draping and tucking until you create the form you want. After that, you mark the fabric and then trace its shape and your markings onto paper.
[Pattern making]
From the pattern, I create a toile (mock-up) of the garment in calico or muslin, which resembles as close an approximation to the final design as possible. I make toiles to my measurements so I can try them on to check the fit, how they hang, how they react to movement and whether I still like them. This is an exciting stage – being able to see the progression from my sketch to something which can be worn. Often I’ll return to the pattern to make changes and alter or remake the toile. If something still isn’t right, I might change the design or even abandon it altogether.
Once I’m satisfied with the patterns, they are pinned to the final fabric and cut. The garment pieces are notched and marked with thread so I know the placement of darts and pleats. For a dress like Marilyn, the sheer number of pleats mean that this can take a good couple of hours, after which it’s ready to sew. I do most of the sewing with my machine, but many of my designs have draping which I arrange and stitch by hand. This is my favorite bit, as it really feels as though I’m sculpting the fabric.
[The finished Marilyn Dress]
When the the collection is finished, I pester a photographer friend (Alice Turner, a.k.a. afternoonoutings) to arrange a shoot. I pose, she clicks and we hope it doesn’t rain.
When a customer orders a piece from me, we discuss design adjustments they might want and their choice of fabric. I re-cut the pattern to their measurements to ensure a perfect fit then finally, very carefully, I’ll cut, sew and drape their dress.
Clearly it’s a long process. I don’t know about sweat, but there are usually some tears (though strictly not on the dresses) and more than a few pricked fingers. However, I wouldn’t change a thing about my work. Though I get very attached to the dresses I make, each individual piece is created with the buyer’s input, so there’s always the comfort of knowing they’re going to an appreciative home.
[Lawrence Dress design process]
Many thanks to Anna for giving us such a fascinating insight into her process! Check out some of her amazing designs in the Seller’s Items below. You can also follow Anna on Twitter.
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140 comments
Sign in to add your ownLittleWrenPottery says:
Beautiful work, its really interesting to hear about your process. I really like all the intricate folds and drapes of your work its really unique!
1 year ago
TwinkleStarCrafts says:
Incredible designs and processes!
1 year ago
wearaddiction says:
Her inspiration is so well transformed into beautiful pieces. Some of my neckwarmers are made inspired by architectural patterns. It's so great to find inpiration on other things & bring it to our creations.
1 year ago
lovelygifts says:
Beautiful work!
1 year ago
PhatGrrl says:
Great work!
1 year ago
possandwom says:
What a talented lady! Your pieces are beautiful and your inspiration and creative process is so intriguing. Goodluck to you.
1 year ago
NotYourGrandmasAttic says:
Very talented lady. Beautiful creations.
1 year ago
NotYourGrandmasAttic says:
Beautiful designs. Its very difficult to achieve your design in reality, but she seems to do a wonderful job.
1 year ago
MessyJesse says:
lovely to hear about the process you use, it gives your clothes a real story behind them :) well done on the great designs!
1 year ago
vKnit says:
wow, such beautiful clothes! it's wonderful to see the background behind them :) i adore the Tilda dress! xox
1 year ago
KylieO says:
What a fascinating article, I really enjoyed seeing Anna's creative process.
1 year ago
GraceDunbar says:
Interesting article, thank you for sharing your creative process. Your work is beautiful and quite impressive.
1 year ago
Franellie says:
I am a fashion-designer myself,I love this story, good story,beautiful designs,you go girl!
1 year ago
Jusadreamin says:
YOUR work is AWSOME I enjoyed your article hope you much SUCESS!!!!
1 year ago
ikabags says:
Beautiful handmade work !
1 year ago
Asianexpressions says:
Beautiful work!
1 year ago
Unabashedapparel says:
wow wow wow! How very inspiring! Gorgeous work and a wonderful explanation of all the hard work that goes into designing art-for-wear! Thank you!
1 year ago
sabahnur says:
my fave is Lawrence Long Sleeved Draped Dress amazing
1 year ago
IconicPillows says:
gorgeous!
1 year ago
FunksByRaloo says:
amazing work! very original and inspiring!
1 year ago
ecouturejewels says:
Wow - what an amazing process. I wonder if all the celebrities who make the "designer" crossover really have any clue what goes into making a quality item. Stunning, beautiful work!
1 year ago
lulisplanet says:
Lovely creations!
1 year ago
DalkullanJewelry says:
Thanks for a look at how couture clothing is made!
1 year ago
julessabjewelry says:
I never thought ruffles could be so pretty and flattering. Wonderful work!
1 year ago
OhSoDowntown says:
Oh so fascinating...quite a process with beautiful results!
1 year ago
Pailanita says:
nice!!
1 year ago
sewella says:
Well this has been a thoroughly elaborate and if I may say inspirational insight into a great artist's work and vision. Anna is so amazingly talented! Thank you for sharing!
1 year ago
whilebabynaps says:
Holy smokes! Your workmanship is amazing! You're on my list!!
1 year ago
blueskyclouds says:
Gorgeous designs!
1 year ago
Mylana says:
This story has breen a great read and the pictures are amazing. Good work.
1 year ago
MerCurios says:
Beautiful work. I love reading about "conception to finished product" practices. While the underlying principles are the same, everyone attacks it in their own way.
1 year ago
jelijulie says:
Your designs are amazing!
1 year ago
ekra says:
I love the detailed description of the whole process. Amazing where inspiration can come from and how it inspires different things in different people. Also, this line of clothing is incredibly gorgeous!
1 year ago
congcongdesign says:
amazing fashion design.very beautiful.
1 year ago
doveandflower says:
The Marilyn dress is to die for. LOVED this article!
1 year ago
sweetlaraine says:
Amazing beautiful fashion....The ruffle sleeves are to die for. Laraine
1 year ago
brooksbarrow says:
Interesting inspiration and process...
1 year ago
SilverSistersStudio says:
oh wow, so gorgeous! Thank you for letting us peek into the design process.
1 year ago
DarkBluebell says:
Beautiful!
1 year ago
ANANEE says:
georgeous!
1 year ago
Emmamaha says:
so interesting to see the process behind the creations. Enlightening article!
1 year ago
WoodsyWools says:
beautiful clothes! stunning!
1 year ago
MegansMenagerie says:
Amazing work!!! Beautiful!!!
1 year ago
Illusio says:
Brilliant...and takes me back. I studied Fashion and Textile design when i was young.
1 year ago
Parachute425 says:
Very talented. Much success to you.
1 year ago
cinnamongirlprints says:
wonderful wonderful stuff, I need to start saving now!! x
1 year ago
BeatificBijoux says:
Love the structure of these pieces. Architectural, textural, historical. Really inspiring.
1 year ago
AvianInspirations says:
Wow, so many long hours of hard work. But your dresses are beautiful and unique and your passion and dedication show. The Raimunda dress is my favorite, the back in particular is stunning.
1 year ago
jewelrybyjackie says:
Simply stunning! Love it!
1 year ago
cosmiksouls says:
Both unique and chic ... love the creative journey you go through to completion of a piece. Very inspiring !!!! Thanks for sharing .
1 year ago
myvintagecrush says:
Lovely! Those big, billowy sleeves are great!!
1 year ago
labellefairy says:
beautiful work!
1 year ago
Mclovebuddy says:
what wonderful detail. love it.
1 year ago
audreytolove says:
Absolutely Gorgeous! I can see the philosophy behind each design!!! Bravo!
1 year ago
arsniccandy says:
Fabulous creations! Isn't it more rewarding when you create your creations from scratch:) I agree....the pattern making does make my head spin at times, but like you said, once you have it cut and draped on the dressform.....who knows what wonderful mistakes can happen:)...
1 year ago
babybayrs says:
Your designs are so beautiful! Besides several designs I like very much, I love Lawrence Long Sleeved Draped Dress! I wish you are offering pattern for this dress!
1 year ago
sarantos says:
Really beautiful work! Love seeing the creative progress.
1 year ago
DayDreamerVintage says:
Incredible designs, love your work!
1 year ago
paramountvintage says:
i love, love, love the lawrence dress!
1 year ago
EdensEndeavors says:
I'm always so impressed by people that can sew! I really enjoy reading how other people describe their creative process.
1 year ago
KMalinka says:
Beautiful work!
1 year ago
polkadotmagpie says:
Fabulous pieces Anna. So glad you escaped costuming houses! Best to you!
1 year ago
FeltShmelt says:
Thank you so much for this window into your process - I love hearing about your favorite stages to work on, and that Marilyn Dress is amazing!! Thanks for sharing!
1 year ago
QueenofCuffs says:
Such sculptured cloth, wonderful work. The way you build each piece is fantastic. Love the thought process that gives such beautiful results.
1 year ago
Prittyfy says:
Incredible thought process.
1 year ago
knitmystique says:
Stunning work Anna, thanks for sharing it! best of luck
1 year ago
rusticrevivals says:
Oh, I LOVE and Adore these dresses...and I'm supposed to be a tomboy! The Marilyn dress (and the photo of it) are stunning, just breathtaking! Julie, of Rustic Revivals
1 year ago
2007musarra says:
OH my! Such lovely work. You truely are an architect in ever sense of the word. Good luck to you and your line.
1 year ago
peonylovespink says:
Lovely pieces. Very unique.
1 year ago
theroyal says:
gorgeous
1 year ago
SMIRNOFFdesignSTUDIO says:
BEAUTIFUL,STUNNING WORK. GOOD LUCK TO YOU,ANNA!
1 year ago
accentonvintage says:
Beautiful dresses! I love your work!
1 year ago
LoveSickClothing says:
These dresses are gorgeous - so well designed, and original! I wish I could afford them! (Maybe next year.)
1 year ago
ellabellamay says:
Thanks for the inspiration, the dresses and ideas are beautiful!
1 year ago
consciousclothing says:
delightful designs! thank you for sharing!!
1 year ago
rubybeantoes says:
Thank you for your blog . . . LOVE your Lawrence dress and Marilyn dress, can't choose one over the other. Your designs are genius, adjusting them to different sizes is gutsy, and I know your little fingers must need lots of TLC with all that pinning, it can be brutal! You have to really love what you do, and it shows (:
1 year ago
MissHildebrandt says:
more like anatomy fabric art...stunning! If all the ladies could get their hands on your label, the world would be a prettier place. Chow!
1 year ago
shop1848 says:
Your work is fabulous! Those sleeves are freaking awesome!!!
1 year ago
allthepreciousthings says:
Love your work - fascinating to read, especially as someone who is also addicted to sewing :)
1 year ago
hankietankie says:
breathtaking!!! lovely designs! xoxoxo
1 year ago
GracefullyGirly says:
Such beautiful dresses. It was so wonderful to hear the behind the scenes! Thanks for sharing!
1 year ago
craftylittlecritters says:
Great work! It's kinda like giving birth. It must be hard sometimes to let your babies go. I love it!!
1 year ago
jaipuronline says:
Beautiful creations.....
1 year ago
ViviansKitchen says:
Just adore ♥
1 year ago
jamiespinello says:
So gorgeous! Another great designer discovered on Etsy! Love to see work with high aesthetic standards and such attention to detail!
1 year ago
Minxshop says:
Awesome lady! Love your stuff!
1 year ago
sophisticatedwedding says:
fantastic designs, im speachless, just beautiful :)
1 year ago
Powerofflower says:
Great designs!
1 year ago
stylesupplier says:
fascinating clothes, beautiful design.
1 year ago
BreatheCouture says:
wonderful, creative designs and great feature. Very inspiring :)
1 year ago
ManoBello says:
Creative! Loving them. Thanks for the feature and congrats as well!
1 year ago
OsoVictoria says:
Wow, lots of time involved! Beautiful clothes!
1 year ago
evdesign says:
Nice work. Thanks for sharing your creative process, and inspiring me.
1 year ago
John8eight says:
A former costume designer myself, I can appriciate the work that goes into making an item of clothing look effortless. I would tell any designer- fashion or otherwise- to never limit your inspiration to just the works and people in your own field of work. Look beyond the ordinary. I've made jewelry before that was inspired by oil floating on top of water in a gutter.
1 year ago
gretchenmist says:
just amazing. the pleats and folds are really gorgeous. so fascinating to see the sculpting in progress :)
1 year ago
Baymut says:
Sooo awesome and fashion!!!
1 year ago
eclettica says:
A sculptured feel to couture pieces has always fascinated me and I confess to following Anna's store very closely for a while now. I appreciate her aesthetics quite a bit :)
1 year ago
PatchworkTrails says:
Wow, Anna, your work is really gorgeous! I really loved learning more about your process. Your construction and these shapes will make every woman look and feel beautiful.
1 year ago
PyxusPassionProject says:
Fantastic! So great to see how other designers work and for people in general to see how much work goes into each design. Your work is GORGEOUS and inspiring.. thanks for sharing!!
1 year ago
FunWithNeedles says:
oh my! just beautiful... i love the marilyn dress.
1 year ago
VintageHaven says:
So beautiful and feminine.
1 year ago
NoelPaints says:
This is fabulous, you are an artist of fabric manipulations!
1 year ago
SmilingGirlStudio says:
Your work is amazing and ohhhh so time consuming...which means you must love it and of course that will be passed on to the buyer. Thank you for sharing and congrats on your feature....well deserved from the looks of it!
1 year ago
zehland says:
I appreciated reading about the process you go through to create these beautiful dresses. They really are stunning!
1 year ago
sparrowsalvage says:
This reminds me very much of my brother's work, he takes Victorian garment construction and makes it look like architecture and comes out with the most futuristic Ancient Greek/Japanese pieces. I should show him this article and tell him this is how wonderful he could be if he'd stop working in the pub and start being a famous designer! Maybe I should send him to you for a good talking to. :)
1 year ago
Andriano says:
Awesome creations.. love, love your work and the process..you rock!
1 year ago
SylviesDesigns says:
As a Textile Designer myself, I understand your love of fabric. Your work is exquisite. I hope that you are kept VERY busy, because you deserve it. Way to go Anna!
1 year ago
LeapARTandVintage says:
Wow, I love the transformation of male torso muscles to vest! Brilliant! Very interesting creative process, thanks for sharing!
1 year ago
odiliafu says:
Your work is awesome! Just so beautiful.
1 year ago
LavenderField says:
Amazing work! Congratulations Anna!
1 year ago
TRAMPmillinery says:
What a fantastic feature, love the folds and hearing about your design processes, congrats ;D
1 year ago
bigbluebed says:
I really enjoyed reading about the process. And what beautiful designs.
1 year ago
BetsyMarieJohnson says:
You're a true artist. Thank you so much for sharing your story.
1 year ago
jungledread says:
the way you sculpt the fabric.... I appreciate your attention to detail! Love your work
1 year ago
jewellerytreasures says:
interesting read the marilyn dress is beautiful
1 year ago
kisforkitty says:
Beautiful dresses, beautifully made. Thanks for explaining the process that makes a couture dress so expensive. I work the same way,(on MUCH simpler pieces!) but I have been too afraid to try to do couture long distance without any fittings.Bravo to you!
1 year ago
annakdesignstoo says:
Great style! Fab with jewelry from annakdesigns and annakdesignstoo. More power to you!
1 year ago
kisforkitty says:
Truly beautiful designs and workmanship.Great visuals on why couture clothing costs so much.All the labor that is involved in carrying out the vision. I do work from sketch,to paper pattern, muslin fittings,handwork etc.,too, but I`ve never thought I could do it without personal fittings on the customer. You`ve given me something to think about. Your photos and YOU are lovely also.
1 year ago
kisforkitty says:
Oops. Double message. Can`t remember anything!
1 year ago
thePieceDeResistance says:
What a fabulous article - she truly has a beautiful process with a breathtaking outcome. Proves love + hard work = the perfect product.
1 year ago
JenniferLynnProducts says:
"You can have some wonderful accidents while just playing around with a length of fabric and a handful of pins." OMGoodness. This is SO TRUE! I don't do fashion design, but I make bags, and this comment really jumped out at me. Anna, you do amazing, beautiful work!
1 year ago
rebelrose68 says:
An inspiring article and truly stunning designs. THank you for sharing your experience!!
1 year ago
vuedesign says:
Thanks for sharing your process and story with us! It is VERY apparent by your work how much of you goes into each and every detail. Way to go!
1 year ago
ezliving says:
Very creative ever I love it!love it!!!! Happy Holiday to all!!
1 year ago
simplycoolstuff says:
Oh how I enjoyed reading this step by step process. As a garden designer I know all about the process and it is both tedious and exhilarating! Thank you Anna for all the lovelies! Good luck
1 year ago
artigianajewellery says:
Beautiful designs, styling and photography - very inspiring, thank you!
1 year ago
habbags says:
wonderful work Anna, inspirational to see the process from beginning to end, and you making a success of it. I know what you mean about becoming attached to each piece of work, but at least on Etsy the 'hand-crafting' is appreciated! Thanks for sharing, and all the best!
1 year ago
Overboard says:
Incredible clothing. REAL fashion!!! Love it all .
1 year ago
thenewblackmarket says:
The pleating is gorgeous!
1 year ago
discerningchichi says:
Beautiful work!
1 year ago
nowvintage says:
Really stunning! Fun to see the process!!
1 year ago
mtillery says:
Loved this piece especially the most intriquing inspiration and the process - kudos!
1 year ago
mtillery says:
Loved this piece especially reading about the creative process - intriguing and inspiring!
1 year ago
kalicat says:
beautiful and stylish dresses!
1 year ago
tiialin says:
I love learning about others' creative process. It's so inspiring to get into the head of a designer. Understanding a new way of thinking and seeing why methodical works for one but random works for another.
1 year ago
Deiselection says:
A true creative designer wow designs fame awaits you, never stop designing.
1 year ago
strawberrycouture says:
Your designs are very intelligent. Like I said, inspiration is ALL around you let it be candy colors to human anatomy. Brilliant!!!
1 year ago
kokopelligirl says:
Quite an intriguing article. Amazing creative process,striking designs!
1 year ago
mediterra says:
Loved her style a lot !
1 year ago
WayuuSusu says:
LOVE your work! thanks for sharing your creative process, it is an inspiration. ws
1 year ago