Kathryn Lewis is a writer-turned-designer who moved to Delhi to study textile design after a decade in journalism and publishing. Her writing has appeared in The National Newspaper of Abu Dhabi, Slate, and The American Prospect, among other publications.
A few weeks after moving to Delhi, I discovered Dastkar, a group aimed at improving the economic status of craftspeople and promoting the survival of traditional crafts. I had already been to more than a few craft fairs and spent my share of time in the capital’s stodgy state handicrafts emporiums, so when I wandered into one of Dastkar’s bazaars on a hot October afternoon, I knew they were doing something exceptional. The stalls were selling all that India is known for — tie dye, block prints, ikat fabric, handwoven saris, applique quilts — but the quality was noticeably better than the usual offerings. The space was contemporary and carefully curated. At the same time, a host of less typical wares were on display: block-printed cardboard magazine holders and stacks of organic soap.
Dastkar, which means “artisan” in Hindi, was founded in 1981, with a mission to transform the way that the work of rural craftspeople is designed, produced, and sold, ultimately promoting self-sufficiency. Dastkar works with some 230 craft groups across India, helping with product development, skill upgrades, design, and marketing; it even gives loans. It’s one of the most influential development organizations in India’s enormous handicrafts sector and was founded on the idea that craft can be a powerful force for economic and social change.
Kathryn Lewis
Women stitch quilts at Dastkar Ranthambore.
According to the most recent statistics from the Indian government, some 13 million people are directly employed in the handicrafts sector in India. (According to the All India Artisans and Craftworkers Welfare Association, 30 million.) Indian artisans face a host of challenges, starting with the struggle to raise capital for raw materials like yarn, fabric and dye. They are exploited by traders who don’t give them fair prices and moneylenders who lend on rapacious terms. Because they are part of the informal economy, they are not paid a minimum wage and work is not always steady. Health and safety standards are also lacking.
Thirty years ago, at the time of Dastkar’s founding, the prospects for artistans were even bleaker: there were few outlets for their work in cities beyond drab government-run emporiums. The gulf between makers and buyers was enormous, giving outsized leverage to foreign and local middlemen, while the social divide between artisans and urban clientele left craftspeople with little idea of the market’s taste. At the same time, their local customers were dwindling, thanks to the cheap synthetic fabrics then flooding the Indian market.
When Laila Tyabji, an artist-turned-designer, went to work with the state handicrafts association in Gujarat in the late 1970s, the depth of the divide between artisans and consumers was immediately apparent. She was given a van and driver and sent from village to village to document craft production and help artisans design products for the urban market. “The idea that they could slightly change their products and make them into something that someone from the city would buy was a very novel idea.”
Dastkar
Laila Tyabji with various Dastkar artists.
The following year, Tyabji left to run a sprawling shop in Delhi’s Taj Mahal hotel, and her ideas about how to assist rural craftspeople crystalized. “I was able to get a lot of things from exporters, from entrepreneurs who were doing interesting things, but I wasn’t actually able to buy anything from craftspeople,” she said. Most rural artisans couldn’t afford to sell goods on consignment: without confirmed orders, they had no money to buy materials.
“That got me thinking about how there should be an organization which actually acted as a link between grassroots producers and urban consumers,” Tyabji recalled. What she and Dastkar’s other five founders have accomplished since has been nothing short of revolutionary for the Indian craft sector: by linking artisans with designers who help refine their work, Dastkar has succeeded in making craft products relevant to urban consumers, thereby generating demand for handicrafts while helping preserve local craft traditions. They are careful to strike a balance between designers and artisans and not to stray too far from traditional motifs and cuts. A crucial element of Dastkar’s mission has been to help craft groups become self-sufficient, so that they don’t rely on middlemen, or Dastkar itself, to thrive.
Kathryn Lewis
Hand-woven saris at the Dastkar Nature Bazaar, 2010.
Over the years, Dastkar has also worked to help impoverished communities build their own craft sectors. Last spring I visited Dastkar Ranthambore, a project in the Indian state of Rajasthan, about six hours from Delhi by train. Housed in a sprawling, low-slung building on a dusty and desolate road, the project began in 1989 when a local foundation approached Dastkar, asking for help generating new sources of employment for tribal communities who had been displaced by the creation of a tiger sanctuary.
Dastkar found that there were few skilled artisans actually working in Ranthambore, so they found the area’s last remaining block printer and recruited him to work and train others. Babu Lal, now in his early sixties, was the only printer working in the community; 50 years ago there were more than sixty families working as printers. “The shift from hand block-printed to mill-made fabric changed the whole scenario,” Lal said. “We lost our local market.”
Dave Morris
A woman in Ahmedabad practices traditional block-printing.
Kathryn Lewis
Block-printed quilts made from children's drawings at Dastkar Ranthambore.
Reesan Banu, who started working with Dastkar Ranthambore at its inception, told me that it had changed her life: the extra income paid for her children’s schooling and allowed them to bathe every day, not just once a week.
What Dastkar has already done is remarkable, but Tyabji is quick to point out that the work is far from finished. “What Dastkar is doing is just a drop in the ocean,” she said. “We’re losing about 10 percent of our craftspeople every decade, and something has to be done.”
If you’d like to check out these beautiful artisan works yourself, the next Dastkar Nature Bazaar is happening October 8 – 19, 2011 at the Crafts Musuem in Pragati Maidan, New Delhi. Find out more on Dastkar’s Facebook page.
Kathryn Lewis is a writer-turned-designer who moved to Delhi to study textile design after a decade in journalism and publishing. Her writing has appeared in The National Newspaper of Abu Dhabi, Slate, and The American Prospect, among other publications.
2 Featured Comments
Sign in to add your ownFuzionJewelry says: Featured
My mom grew up in Pakistan and when she was young she used to all the things you see in the photo. In the top photo she has that tool the guy is using and told me she still remembered how to do it which was amazing. One thing she told me is that it is very time consuming but very rewarding. As a child she didn't have lots of money so she had to do it. Thanks for sharing this story it brought back the memories my mom shared with me. If anyone is interested in decorations and clothing from India let me know because I do sell them at my home. Was not sure if anyone would be interested so I did not put them on etsy.
229 days ago
PruAtelier says: Featured
A good article showcasing what can be done with different cultures and the world of possibilities that can be open to their native craftspeople if given the opportunity, the direction and the freedom to flourish. I also love the traditional block-printed fabrics of India. I have seen the push for different colorations and designs that have made their way into the home dec industry, also called Indiennes, and they are very popular.....somewhat simplified but nonetheless traditionally Indian. I also love the texture of the Indian cottons.....very soft! (A side note would be that they'll hopefully be able to rid themselves of Monsanto's crops over there which has been a tragedy for the Indian cotton farmers!)
229 days ago
80 comments
Sign in to add your ownRossLab says:
This article is so inspiring: this project might be just a drop in the ocean, but it changed local people's lives, and that's remarkable. I'll go to India in a few months and I'd love to visit these artisans! Thanks for sharing.
229 days ago
TopiaryDesigns says:
This is a truly amazing story! Great job Etsy!
229 days ago
MandyBesek says:
This is such an inspiring story!
229 days ago
volkerwandering says:
Lovely pictures and story! India is so colorful!
229 days ago
MootiDesigns says:
I own one of those wooden fabric stamps, but just for looks, I don't think I could ever do what they do. Great post. Thanks for sharing!
229 days ago
mazedasastoat says:
Amazing work... more power to ya!
229 days ago
pinkpurr says:
Oh how I would luv to travel to New Delhi in time for this artisan exhibit!! While this is not an option right now, I've been searching and buying here on Etsy all the natural and authentic block prints and indian trims I can find to decorate my bedroom. It's sad to hear that anyone would actually want to buy synthetics - cheap knocked-off versions of these textiles. While I have a trained hand and eye for things textile, we need to educate the public in what is the real thing and what is cheap mass produced junk. Thank you for an enlightening article.
229 days ago
myvintagecrush says:
Beautiful in art and in spirit.. but what do you mean they are losing craftspeople? How? Why? ..quite a cliffhanger.
229 days ago
GogoKorogiannou says:
Great article!
229 days ago
pattihaskins says:
Reminds me of my favorite catalog to buy clothes: http://www.marketplaceindia.com/
229 days ago
FuzionJewelry says: Featured
My mom grew up in Pakistan and when she was young she used to all the things you see in the photo. In the top photo she has that tool the guy is using and told me she still remembered how to do it which was amazing. One thing she told me is that it is very time consuming but very rewarding. As a child she didn't have lots of money so she had to do it. Thanks for sharing this story it brought back the memories my mom shared with me. If anyone is interested in decorations and clothing from India let me know because I do sell them at my home. Was not sure if anyone would be interested so I did not put them on etsy.
229 days ago
TheNightjar says:
Sounds like the US could be learning some things about the way crafts people should be treated from this organization
229 days ago
Colettesboutique says:
What a great story! those traditional fabric are just gorgeous, and knowing how they are created make them even more special.
229 days ago
lorenabr says:
Lovely article!
229 days ago
mikeverepatrick says:
LOVE LOVE THIS!!!!!!!!!!!!!
229 days ago
seule771 says:
Impoverishment does not mean a lack of talent; contrary it is laden, chockful and fourscore of crafty folks waiting to be discovered and not exploited.
229 days ago
VivaGailBeads says:
An amazing story! thank you!
229 days ago
jibbyandjuna says:
Even in my limited travel, I have seen that this is a story playing out, and needing to play out, in many parts of the world. "Craft can be a powerful force for economic and social change" - thats an an idea that really excites me. Tweeted, copied, forwarded, sent around! Excellent article Kathryn!
229 days ago
TheScarfTree says:
So pretty, now that is an amazing craft! Thanks for sharing!
229 days ago
LittleWrenPottery says:
My mum has an Indian sari that she bought on her travels it's beatiful golds and browns woven together. I love the craftsmanship and colours in Indian fabrics.
229 days ago
stepbackink says:
India is full of mystic places and mystic crafts, I was there few years back and the memories are so vivid of the local arts and crafts. Great article.
229 days ago
RussianTale says:
This is truly amazing how people can create such a beauty! I can't imagine how much craftsmanship, creativity and patience would take to make even a square cm! Their work is Priceless.
229 days ago
oldsnapshot says:
Very inspiring!!!
229 days ago
ModernFibre says:
I was in Delhi last January and feel fortunate to have visited the Crafts Museum (http://nationalcraftsmuseum.nic.in/ ) when there was a craft demonstration program and marketplace as a venue for craftspeople. It was thrilling to visit this museum dedicated to presenting the work of craftspeople from all over the country from the past and present. Thanks, Kathryn, for your great article featuring craftspeople and the amazing work of Dastkar in Delhi. I hope you will write more here telling us about what you learn in Delhi!
229 days ago
outofline says:
Important work! Love to hear this:)
229 days ago
peaseblossomstudio says:
What an inspiring article! I love the mission of Dastkar! This is a win win win!
229 days ago
PruAtelier says: Featured
A good article showcasing what can be done with different cultures and the world of possibilities that can be open to their native craftspeople if given the opportunity, the direction and the freedom to flourish. I also love the traditional block-printed fabrics of India. I have seen the push for different colorations and designs that have made their way into the home dec industry, also called Indiennes, and they are very popular.....somewhat simplified but nonetheless traditionally Indian. I also love the texture of the Indian cottons.....very soft! (A side note would be that they'll hopefully be able to rid themselves of Monsanto's crops over there which has been a tragedy for the Indian cotton farmers!)
229 days ago
Morado says:
Their work is just exquisite! Such a touching and inspiring story and so close to my heart!
229 days ago
angelspin says:
Great article!! Thanks etsy
229 days ago
AntoinettesWhims says:
Beautiful!
229 days ago
storeythreads says:
I am obsessed with Indian textile! I currently have have a hand painted floor length skirt in my shop tat is authentic hand painted! I am obsessed with it!
229 days ago
TheIDconnection says:
The colors are so vibrant & beautiful. Amazing - thanks for sharing - Monica
229 days ago
PattiTrostle says:
Beautiful! Inspiring story also!
229 days ago
Iammie says:
Beautiful works!
229 days ago
TerraCasa says:
Beautiful story!
229 days ago
katrinaalana says:
Wonderful and inspiring article. Dastkar is helping preserve traditions while helping artists make a living our of their products. It's always nice to hear organizations helping artists get a fair price for their goods.
229 days ago
pinksnakejewelry says:
Great Article!!! Beautiful Creations!!!
229 days ago
pinksnakejewelry says:
Great Article!! Beautiful Creations!!!
229 days ago
myAvonlea says:
I just appreciate India's vibrant colors. I would be so honored to visit one day. Thank you for this story. Its remarkable.
229 days ago
accentonvintage says:
Wonderful article !
229 days ago
armcandyforyou says:
I am an Indian & great to see a positive article about Indian crafts................it's always the resellers which embarrasses me so much.................but this is wonderful! thank you so much:)
229 days ago
MishaGirl says:
It's so good to hear that Dastkar is looking out for the very talented artisans of India. I hope that it leads to prosperity for those who truly have deserved it.
229 days ago
devikasart says:
Great article! Loved it..
229 days ago
ShilohWinterJewelry says:
What a beautiful story! The people of India weigh heavily on my heart! This is such good news to hear that Dastkar is making positive changes for them! Thanks for the wonderful article!
229 days ago
SeedSewn says:
This is fantastic!
229 days ago
DelhiDaze says:
What a great article! I've driven by the crafts museum so many times. I'll definitely check it out next week!
229 days ago
peshka says:
inspiring story!
229 days ago
MakeMeUnique says:
Great story loved reading it. will check out the place next time I go to Delhi
229 days ago
gloriatury says:
Inspiring and up lifting!
229 days ago
catherinemoody says:
Fantastic! A must visit next time I am in India.
229 days ago
samanthabalk says:
Absolutely wonderful to read! I spent some time in India two years ago & it was life changing. Jaipur was my favorite city we visited because of the amazing art I was surrounded with, block printing in particular. Thanks for sharing this! :)
229 days ago
OneOffbyFabia says:
I have been following Dastkar for years... I met a group in Delhi. So glad that you are making their voice heard and seen. Thank you
229 days ago
BanglewoodSupplies says:
Thanks for sharing this story.
229 days ago
alexandrafa says:
Their work is exquisite! and the photography is extraordinary!!! Love:D
229 days ago
jewelsbymoon says:
Wonderful article. Would love to plan a visit next year. 50% of the gems I use in my jewels are from India. I have used small dealers who go to India 3 times a year and hand pick items for my shop. I cant wait to go!
229 days ago
esther2u2 says:
Wow,how amazingly Brave of you to make such a huge move! Thanks to your bravery this awesome story has been brought alive!
228 days ago
caitlihne says:
So pleased that some things go very right for the Indian people. They have a huge fund of craft and design talents and a massive heritage of exquisite work. It is a dream of mine to go there one day and revel in the colours and textures. Thanks for a great article.
228 days ago
OnlyOriginalsByAJ says:
Such beautiful and vibrant work! Thanks for sharing :)
228 days ago
sleeplessinpa says:
I work part-time for a family from India, and I'm telling you, the taste and talent that they have for making things, and their decor is remarkable! This was a very interesting story, especially since I have become a small part of their world. Thanks for sharing it!
228 days ago
staceypostus says:
Excellent article. I am drooling over those beautiful textiles!
228 days ago
FavreBijoux says:
Thank you. I enjoyed reading this post because I have always loved the colors and design of Indian block printed fabric.
228 days ago
RaineDesign says:
I spent 4 months in India recently, and met a designer for CB2 (Crate and Barrel) who did exactly this; he would create modern designs using traditional craft techniques and essentially revive crafts that were near extinction. He would let them keep the patterns for the designs and sell their products on their own, as well as selling them in his beautiful design store in Jaipur and selling them to CB2! He mentioned that Westerners value craft much more than Indians do; we will pay more for hand-made. But Indians seem to be losing that value as industrialization takes over. Definitely food for thought. Thanks Etsy!
228 days ago
Travelher says:
Great story!
228 days ago
thefuriousfrog says:
I absolutely love Indian textiles and all the vibrant colors that are used. What a great article to help showcase all the hard work that goes into them.
228 days ago
bedouin says:
Great article ~*~ The intricate designs and vibrant colors are so cheerful.
228 days ago
GreyHeartOfStone says:
Great inspirin story!
228 days ago
minibytes says:
Such bright lovely colors! And a wonderful story as well :) Thanks!
228 days ago
BrittneyWest says:
India and anything India-inspired is the most gorgeous thing to me! Thanks for sharing! Such wonderful colors and beautiful women! "Let the beauty of what you love be what you do."-Rumi
228 days ago
theweaverbirdie says:
Thanks for putting up this story! Real people usually do not get their share of credit.
228 days ago
teryyo says:
Very informative article. Thanks for sharing!
228 days ago
lkmccray says:
A fantastic story about such an important project. Stephanie Jolluck is doing similar work in Guatamala with her company Collecion Luna. She's incorporated the crafts of local people into designs that sell in U.S. markets with great success, creating opportunities for fine craftspeople. Check it out: http://www.coleccionluna.com/
227 days ago
tensirk says:
how lovely. This type of work is so original and special. Thanks for sharing http://bodyofyoga.wordpress.com/
227 days ago
antiquebeginnings says:
“Necessity is the mother of invention, it is true, but its father is creativity, and knowledge is the midwife” ~Jonathan Schattke quotes
227 days ago
NewModernArt says:
Beautiful story! Those traditional fabric are just gorgeous. Such beautiful and vibrant work!
227 days ago
joypompeo says:
This article and photos are inspirational! Thanks for sharing!
227 days ago
strawberryluna says:
Wow! What an incredible story, thanks so much for bringing it to us at Etsy. Even more, what an amazingly cool and inspiring organization Dastkar is, and what great work they are doing. Seems to be that the industrialized / first world sure could learn quite a bit from this rally to save independent craft. So great, thank you!
227 days ago
missduffy says:
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227 days ago
thedaydreamer says:
This is a wonderful article. India is a treasure trove of handicrafts but the artisans need proper guidance to realise their full potential and carve a self-sufficient future for themselves. I'm proud to be an Indian! Many thanks to Etsy too to showcase these artisans and Dastkar. :)
223 days ago
FiorellaJewelry says:
I loved this story. I am such a fan of Indian handicrafts, their abundant colors and the longstanding traditions represented. i am glad dasktar is helping some of the artisans make a well deserved living wage, and I hope this idea spreads.
220 days ago
BashaandMidas says:
Oh,,, thank you..this is so inspiring. I have been to India and have always been inspired by their color and design. I love how this vision is empowering women. We can learn a lot from this.
219 days ago