State-supported crafts seem like a dream to most of us. In these challenging economic times, arts organizations struggle to stay funded and afloat themselves, much less to support individual artisans. But beginning in the mid-19th century, the Swedish government funded textile arts programs, ensuring that the country’s long tradition of hand weaving would continue and that design influences like Art Deco and Art Nouveau wouldn’t overshadow Sweden’s historic weaving patterns and motifs.
The programs meant that rural women could learn to weave and earn an income while doing so. One of them was award-winning rug weaver Märta Måås-Fjetterström, who in 1905, at the age of 32, was named director of a weaving workshop in Malmo. The purpose of these workshops was to preserve traditional designs, but Måås-Fjetterström wanted to create her own — and her insistence on innovation led to her being fired in 1911.
In 1919 she started her own studio and designed textiles for the home, which were woven by women in Malmo district. Her designs reflected Swedish traditions, including a nod to nature and the colors and light of summer, but also incorporated elements of the Oriental rugs she studied. These innovative designs stood out in an era when tradition reigned, as well as because few women were designing at the time. In the next decade her work was exhibited at the Paris Expo and the Metropolitan Museum of Art. In 1934, when she was more than 60 years old, she had a major show of her work in Stockhholm and Swedish art critics took notice.
Måås-Fjetterström died in 1941, but left more than 700 designs, as well as instructions for their creation. Her workshop paved the way for other innovative women designers, including Barbo Nilsson, Marianne Richter, Ann-Mari Forsberg, and others. Each new designer built on Måås-Fjetterström’s work, while bringing her own aesthetic to the workshop. Rugs with the initials of these innovative designers woven into the corner continue to be sought after by collectors and interior designers alike. And the support provided by the Swedish government for crafts workers meant that people with an interest in weaving could make a living while learning the art, ensuring a high level of professionalism and skill. As noted by Kim Hostler of Hostler Burrows in an article in the June 2011 Elle Décor, “Because of socialism, people didn’t have to worry about whether they could afford good schools or health care. If they loved a craft, they could afford to pursue it and still have a decent quality of life.”
Rugs are still woven by hand at Märta Måås-Fjetterström AB studio. A combination of tradition and innovation continues, as well: wool is dyed using recipes collected by Märta Måås-Fjetterström and Barbo Nilsson, and each year the company names a Swedish textile artist MMF Artist of the Year and produces one copy of a rug of their design. The company started by a headstrong Swedish weaver melds the imagery and skill of the country’s textile history with the vision and innovation of today’s artists.
Do you think state-supported crafts could produce skilled craftsmen and women today?
A lifelong sewer/knitter and former weaver/spinner, Linzee Kull McCray, a.k.a. lkmccray, is a writer and editor living in Iowa. She feels fortunate to meet and write about people, from scientists to stitchers, who are passionate about their work. Her freelance writing appears in Quilts and More, Stitch, UPPERCASE, American Patchwork and Quilting and more. For more textile musings, visit her blog.
96 comments
Sign in to add your ownTheIDconnection says:
Just Beautiful Interesting article M~
1 year ago
DreamyIsabel says:
these are so amazing! thanks for posting!
1 year ago
bonjourpoupette says:
A wonderful article - thank you!
1 year ago
TheScarfTree says:
Really beautiful work and patterns! A great story from that time era! Thanks for the article! (PS, Linzee, love the way you spell your name)!
1 year ago
MegansMenagerie says:
Such beautiful work! Loved this! Thanks so much for sharing!
1 year ago
blueskyclouds says:
Oh, BE STILL MY HEART! I am a textile lover, and this article is just so inspiring. I love that she had a major show of her work at 60 years old. And that she was so determined to be innovative (which led her to being fired!). And I adore that contemporary textile above in reds....serious beauty. Thanks so much for this article.
1 year ago
BonnieCastle says:
Great article!
1 year ago
Jashme says:
Great color!
1 year ago
VintageEye says:
This really speaks to my inner texturephile! Thanks for this wonderful post!
1 year ago
lizhutnick says:
Great article! My sister is very much into weaving (she has several looms) and textile art and will love seeing this! :)
1 year ago
RedorGrayArt says:
what an artist that paved the way for many .. thanks for a wonderful post , so inspiring
1 year ago
sparrowgrey says:
A great article with an amazing story. Thanks!
1 year ago
vKnit says:
This is amazing! What a great story! Thank you for sharing :)
1 year ago
FranceGallery says:
I love the colors in these pretty textile designs!
1 year ago
katielynnjewelry says:
Beautiful patterns!!
1 year ago
myvintagecrush says:
Beautiful rugs, timeless handcrafted items are just that..
1 year ago
PyxusPassionProject says:
I really need to learn how to weave.. This woman did amazing work and good on her for sticking to her guns and getting fired for it! "C'etait plus fort qu'elle!"
1 year ago
hoganfe says:
Amazing blog post !
1 year ago
texturesgallery says:
Fascinating article! And what a pleasant surprise to find my rug here in the blog. Thank you so much!
1 year ago
beliz82 says:
Wonderful story and love the rugs !!! So amazing
1 year ago
OnlyOriginalsByAJ says:
Beautiful!
1 year ago
siennaorlando says:
Gorgeous designs!
1 year ago
FruitOfMyHands says:
Don't you love it when people follow their hearts and refuse to compromise? Very inspirational article and beautiful rugs.
1 year ago
destroymodernart says:
I think state supported crafts would be fantasticly awesome. I know so many creative people that are forced to suppress their inner artist purely due to lack of funds- we need to eat so we end up doing jobs we hate and we have no work/storage space or time. Many of us are trying to be environmentally responsible as well- support for that and our creativity would be wonderful.
1 year ago
Trenza says:
Absolutely stunning work. Great article!
1 year ago
hildes says:
Great article!
1 year ago
thelittlemarket says:
Brilliant article and photos!!!! Thanks!!
1 year ago
Verdurebydesign says:
This story reminds me of a Australian designer, Florence Broadhurst. How wonderful that the Swedish goverment sees the importance of the weaving and its history.
1 year ago
amysfunkyfibers says:
Amazing work and choice of colors by this designer.I would love to have been in that weaving studio years ago!
1 year ago
rarebeasts says:
Great colours and patterns!
1 year ago
mamif says:
government funding. amazing.
1 year ago
salvageshop says:
these rugs are amazing!
1 year ago
MaryFosterCreative says:
Beautiful work and fascinating story.
1 year ago
dylangirl99 says:
Just fabulous what women can do! Love that she was an independent pioneer that trusted her own instinct! And government supporting art is beautiful!
1 year ago
TNShopthailand says:
It is beautiful. Convey an amazing art form.
1 year ago
gretchenmist says:
her designs are incredible! such an interesting article ~ there's something comforting about being supported while working on a dream. wouldn't it be great if that could be the way everywhere!
1 year ago
NecessiTees says:
Simply beautiful designs! Classic!!!
1 year ago
LouSax says:
I love Etsy - for sharing such inspiring stories and for encouraging the creative traditions of the home to continue living on in new generations. I love finding vintage needlework through this site and commissioning some small pieces from people - the conversations and stories people sometimes tell me of the needlework's history is so uplifting. Thank you Etsy! Louise Saxton (Melbourne artist)
1 year ago
MirandagirlDesigns says:
Great article! Beautiful! This is why I love Etsy!!!
1 year ago
ShawnBoenArt says:
I love Textiles and I love this story. I will be doing some textiles of my own and this article has given me even more inspiration. Thank You
1 year ago
ikabags says:
Amazing article ! Many thanks for your time !
1 year ago
dreamingdevotchka says:
I am a textile-lover and this article was SO inspiring to me. Kudos to her for following her artistic vision despite criticism and the rigid traditionalism of the times. And I do think that state-supported art programs would produce high-quality craftsmen and women. When one doesn't have to worry about where his or her next meal will be coming from, one can devote that energy to their craft instead.
1 year ago
tomokotahara says:
Very interesting article.Thanks for sharing.
1 year ago
breadandroses2 says:
Do you think state-supported crafts could produce skilled craftsmen and women today? Yes. The 1930s Depression Era did and much of the work produced is outstanding and stands the test of time. I was lucky to have attended a school with WPA murals in my early years though I had no idea at the time. I volunteered to run errands in school so I could go to the upper floors of the big old place and would dawdle on the way back, admiring these fantastic works of art. They made an indelible impact on me. Thanks so much for this, Linzee! Beautiful textile art works.
1 year ago
stepbackink says:
Yes I strongly believe state supported crafts could produce skilled crafters. I worked at a rural program in a country where weaving and pottery making became the national treasury because of state support. No matter what artists of all kinds need a support system to help them come through. I look at Etsy as the support that many of today's successful artists give attribute to. No matter where the source comes from, support is a must for any success of any nature.
1 year ago
strawberryluna says:
Wow, thank you for introducing me to Märta Måås-Fjetterström and her work. So cool and inspiring!
1 year ago
theresahutnick says:
Wonderful article and very thought provoking too. If only we all could make a (good) living at what we are passionate about making/doing. I enjoyed this, thank you.
1 year ago
CrossStitchPatterns says:
A great read, I will use some of this on my site at: http://www.carolinascraftycorner.com
1 year ago
zenceramics says:
Gorgeous textiles. I did not know about Märta Måås-Fjetterström work before. Thank you for the great story.
1 year ago
Iammie says:
Beautiful!
1 year ago
tomatoheaven says:
great article, thanks - i just discovered the etsy blog, more like this please!
1 year ago
laKattun says:
Great traditions! Great colors! Great style! Thank you!
1 year ago
Mclovebuddy says:
the patterns are exquisite. great article.
1 year ago
accentonvintage says:
Beautiful patterns- what an interesting story!
1 year ago
SquidWhaleDesigns says:
Excellent article recounting an overlooked designer in an overlooked field. Textiles are so ubiquitous with our everyday experience that it's easy to forget how much work, innovation, influence and cultural preservation is present in our surroundings, often labeled as "women's work". And currently textiles is increasingly a dying field, relegated to factories in developing countries often for the sake of cheap and fast items. There are few current examples of studios such cultivating the likes of Märta Måås-Fjetterström or Gunta Stolzl & Anni Albers from the Bauhaus.
1 year ago
redemptionart says:
Interesting and inspiring article, what beautiful work! In the US it is important to be realistic about the fact that funding art programs will never be a primary focus of our government spending. In fact the arts are usually the first to experience cuts during hard times (like now). However, we are fortunate to have many generous philanthropists who continue to support the arts, especially knowing that they have supported the success of an emerging or even an experienced artist. A well administered supported arts program whether state or privately funded definitely goes far to produce successful artists. Americans for the Arts http://www.artsusa.org/ is a wonderful organization that advocates our government in support of the arts. If you go to their site and get on their email list, they will email alerts regarding proposed cuts. They will also provide you with your local politicians so that you can send them an email in support of art funding. Aloha!
1 year ago
LavenderField says:
Amazing.
1 year ago
kathiroussel says:
stunning in every aspect-- a wonderfully informative feature. the work has that magic that no words can fully describe. it's a shame that artists have to struggle so much in this country-- just trying to pay for health insurance alone can eat up any profits from hand made works. living in a world where people's basic needs are met allows everyone the possibility to become much more creative and contribute beautiful works and ideas that enhance life's experience. thanks for the wonderful feature!
1 year ago
nicolesweavingart says:
As a weaver myself, I second what SquidWhaleDesigns said about weaving being an overlooked field. We deal with fabric every day, all day, but do we ever really think about where it comes from, how it was made, the time and materials that go into it?
1 year ago
lilinspirations says:
The wooden table weaving is super cool! Love it.
1 year ago
blainedesign says:
Wonderful post. If we could upload photos in comments, I could share fabulous buildings, murals, and public sculpture in this area, all financed by the government as WPA projects during the Depression. We have amazing, lasting, and USEFUL works of art only because the government supported artists. I also think textiles and fiber are about to enter public consciousness. We grow some of the world's best fiber in the U.S., but have lost our textile industry. Thanks to all the weavers who are bringing it home.
1 year ago
hawthornehill says:
Just beautiful. I love the Swedish style.....especially coming from MN.
1 year ago
soranagallery says:
I love history. That is what my degree is in. I love that I wasn't the only one fired for being creative. I almost LOL.Thanks, etsy.
1 year ago
wiosnachamow says:
She was amazing, so concious about the geometry and colour, but those contemporary works aren't as good as hers, they are not following this geometrical-colorful tradition, that's sad.
1 year ago
doingitherself says:
Thank you for this! I typed "WOVEN" into Etsy Vintage yesterday and spent a solid hour and a half marveling at all the amazing artistry that lives on Etsy. This article was lovely. Thank you!
1 year ago
melodine says:
I too believe that the state-supported art programs would enhance the economy of America at this point in time. The older generations who have some of their homeland (European) traditions and craftsmanship are quickly dying out and not being passed on. It's a sad state when we can't (or for some reason wont) put Americans back to work when there's so much to be done. We, as Etsyans, know how much vibrancy comes to our lives when we're doing what we love....creating!!
1 year ago
HawaiianEye says:
The study of textiles is rich with the history of a particular culture's way of life - the division of labor between men, women and children. Who tends the sheep? Who shears the sheep, cards the wool and dyes the fibers? Children with tiny fingers were generally used in the weaving of rugs and the tyoing of threads. They worked endless hours and everyone was involved in the economic pursuit of the village. Seldom was a loafer rewarded or encouraged. Everyone had a job to do and to not be a part of the welfare of the whole was to warrant admonishment and ostracism. Everyone in a village benefitted by the toiling of all those involved, including children. Rug making history is quite extraordinary.
1 year ago
kararane says:
yes Linzee - funding for artists is crucial. there are many good examples to be learned by Sweden's support of a good lifestyle for all people. balance harmony respect
1 year ago
kararane says:
the world is a better place for these beautiful designs, the inspiration of her story, and the legacy that continues.
1 year ago
lkmccray says:
Love all this respect for textiles! So often they're treated as unimportant because traditionally they show up on beds and tables, rather than walls of museums. And personally I think they're viewed with some disdain because weaving, sewing, embroidering, etc. are seen as "women's work." So glad to know so many of us hold textiles in high regard, whether we make them or simply use them every day. (And to TheScarfTree re: the spelling of my name- thanks! It was my great gramother's maiden name.)
1 year ago
Carlottasart says:
Loved the article-- thanks for posting it
1 year ago
tinybabylady says:
Just goes to show that you should stock to your guns when you believe in something and no matter what, don't ever give up!
1 year ago
scandivintage says:
So much hard work, so much creativity - hats off to these inspirational women!
1 year ago
lauraprill says:
beautiful article!
1 year ago
GladRaggz says:
Wonderful inspiration. I love Kim Hostler's quote the moset - “Because of socialism, people didn’t have to worry about whether they could afford good schools or health care. If they loved a craft, they could afford to pursue it and still have a decent quality of life.”
1 year ago
SweetwaterGifts says:
Interesting article!
1 year ago
Swedmade says:
One of our greatest Swedish textile artists! I actually have one of her "rya" carpets on my floor. So pleased she is still remembered.
1 year ago
freshpikd4u says:
Beautiful designs!
1 year ago
BirdsNestCompany says:
Awesome article!
1 year ago
roska says:
aaaaaaamazing, so beautiful. love everything about this. i'd never heard of marta before but i'll be searching out more info on her now.
1 year ago
kylie67 says:
What a wonderful article! Thank you so much - it's so inspiring. Loving these textiles too. Kx
1 year ago
ArcSquare says:
Amazing, I'm impressed.
1 year ago
AnneliT says:
Being based in Stockholm, Sweden myself I loved this article about one of my much loved Swedish idols! I am passionate about textiles myself and I like what Märta Måås- Fjetterström did, blend tradition and innovation. Art is constantly evolving but we should never forget our roots since they can give us so much inspiration! www.annelit.se
1 year ago
vargasvalleyvintage says:
I've been collecting vintage fabrics and linens for over 10 years. Also creating items with them. Items from sweden are some of my favorite items. I've seen beautiful woven runners, huck weave embroidery and stunning embroidery. Now I know why there is so much history and availability of these items. I would love for a government sponsored program that subsidizes some type of pay, health care and education. Being a young breast cancer survivor in America forces me to have a desk job so I can have health insurance. Before my illness I was able to devote more time to my sewing and designing and only work part-time.
1 year ago
BeaumontStudio says:
Amazing, I wish there were more handmade wall textiles to be found on etsy.
1 year ago
craftychris says:
Beautiful work, but IMHO I would rather not have bureaucrats messing in my creativity, especially the way the country is going economically.
1 year ago
SoapDragon says:
These are really lovely designs. I think they are every bit as important as other art forms.
1 year ago
MixeDesigns says:
Great work, good inspiration!
1 year ago
juhdesignjewelry says:
Great article! Crafts and design growing in a sustainable way! That's what we need!!! Thanks Etsy!
1 year ago
takingshape says:
Well, its a great article, but the reason she was fired from the Govt. funded program was because she didn't want to follow the rules and wanted innovation. So she started her own studio, was it funded by the Govt?? Would the govt. entity dictate what was to be designed, studied, etc? I would rather not be too comfortable in the rest of my life for fear that it might do the opposite and squash my creativity. Of course, a 'patron' wouldn't be too bad...
1 year ago
OseArt says:
Thaks Etsy! Ineresting article! We really need support
1 year ago
Scorpionvantruc says:
Wonderful article! I love it. I wish i can create beautiful textiles.
1 year ago
Zalavintage says:
Timeless, thanks for introducing to Martas' work.
1 year ago
QuiltFinger says:
Great feature. MMF was incredibly influential.
1 year ago
theroyal says:
WOW
1 year ago
packmatthews says:
When the state is a patron of the arts, instead of patron of weapons systems and financial ponzi schemes life is so much the better for everyone isn't it? And such a rich legacy is left for future generations to mine rather than superfund sights left over by the remnants of military patronage.
1 year ago