I probably don’t have to explain that bathing suits — or rather, exposed skin — have caused their fair share of controversy (and dressing room angst) in the last century. Be it bikini or bloomers, each innovation in bathing costumes caused a ruckus around its perceived “inappropriateness.” While men hit the surf in board shorts, itty bitty briefs, or fitted wool suits (similar to today’s wrestling uniform) that left little to the imagination, women were told to cover their bodies in shapeless dress. The result was both impractical and uncomfortable.
Interestingly enough, the concept of a bathing suit didn’t even exist pre-1900. Long before the one-piece became the standard in modesty, a day at the beach for a respectable woman necessitated a few itchy layers of the prescribed wool stockings, bloomers, and sailor dress that composed a “summer wardrobe.” With all of that heavy drag, the amount of actual swimming accomplished is debatable — until Annette Kellerman, a Vaudeville performer, competitive swimmer (affectionately known as “the Australian mermaid”), and the first woman to attempt the English Channel, sewed stockings on a men’s racing suit and hit the beach in 1908. She was arrested.
As Cristina Black of The Hairpin elaborates:
“In court, Kellerman explained she was not a provocateur but a pragmatist. She simply wanted to swim freely, and was that so wrong? ‘I may as well be swimming in chains,’ she complained. Before long, she had created her own line of women’s swimwear, when there really was no such thing, and long before celebrities regularly leveraged their fame to sell clothes. The ‘Annette Kellerman’ was the first modern swimsuit for women. And, in many ways, its namesake was one of the first modern women.
“Well into the 1970s, Annette Kellerman swam every day. ‘There is nothing more democratic than swimming,’ she wrote. ‘Bathing is a society event but swimming out beyond the surf line is just plain social. Every one is happy and young and funny. There is no time and no place where one may so companionably play the fool and not be called one.’”
Bathing suit design has come a long way since that fateful day in 1908. Monokinis, thongs, boy bottoms or maillot, women now have a choice to wear whatever they deem appropriate without fear of reprobation. For more on the Annette Kellerman and the origin of the bathing suit, see Cristina’s piece on The Hairpin.
Photo by National Library of New Zealand
Beach pageant circa 1940 with women modeling bathing suits from different eras.
What does your bathing suit say about you? Do you embrace the freedom to bare it all?
96 comments
Sign in to add your ownaccentonvintage says:
VERY INTERESTING! WE HAVE COME A LONG WAY! GREAT ARTICLE!
2 years ago
myAvonlea says:
I love these bathing suits. Awesome post Alison. Much Avonlea Love - Alison
2 years ago
birdie1 says:
Thank you, thank you, Ms. Kellerman!
2 years ago
Parachute425 says:
Let's not forget Rudi Gernreich's topless bathingsuit (pre-monokini) in 1964.
2 years ago
JuniperHome says:
Annette Kellerman sounds like a real peach. I'll have to read up on her. :)
2 years ago
BarnshopAntiques says:
Thanks, I learned something new. I never really thought too much about the evolution of the bathing suit, very interesting.
2 years ago
bykamay says:
you learn something new every day! love the picture of suits thtu the years! Thanks!
2 years ago
ikabags says:
Alison , thanks so much ! Such a great post :)
2 years ago
SoliDeoGloriaSDG says:
What an informative article - thank you!!
2 years ago
MegansMenagerie says:
Wow have we come a long way!!!
2 years ago
redhardwick says:
Great article, thanks for sharing! :)
2 years ago
OverstockDeals says:
What I love about Etsy is the variety of amazing merch including a fab making swimsuits for Plush Ladies :) http://www.etsy.com/shop/ByRoDesigns
2 years ago
laurastark says:
You learn something new on Etsy every day! Thanks for sharing.
2 years ago
foundaryvintage says:
That picture of the ladies in their bathing suits says it all. We've come so far as women! (maybe too far- i.e. in the case of thong-kinis) and have come full circle to an era where retro inspired, classic bathing suits are back in style. it's a good time to be a woman :)
2 years ago
PeachyKeenCreations says:
Awesome article! I bet if the men back then saw all that the men of today could see, there would be much less complaining.
2 years ago
girltuesdayjewelry says:
Great read!
2 years ago
PoleStar says:
I would totally be on board as a beach bunny with that full body suit.
2 years ago
SpringwoodSoaps says:
We have come a long way! Love this article....I need to find a new bathing suit that I dread lol
2 years ago
OldTimersClub says:
Love this article! Just keep swimming...Just Keep Swimming!
2 years ago
StellarDust says:
Here Here To Annette Kellerman! Can you imagine trying to enjoy the water like that?! I can't. She really paved the way for future swimwear designers like myself. Thank you Annette!
2 years ago
BlueRoseRetro says:
Love the molded cups and boy-cut legs. Classic! Here's a vintage beauty from DeWeese: http://www.etsy.com/listing/60325418/bombshell-beauty-vintage-deweese?ga_search_query=swimsuit&ga_search_type=user_shop_ttt_id_5527590
2 years ago
Marumadrid says:
I'd love to wear a lot of bathing suits... too bad I hit the waters SOOOO little :(((
2 years ago
feltonthefly says:
Fun post...
2 years ago
leahmarjorie says:
I've always thought 1940s swimsuits are super cute.
2 years ago
freshlypickeddesigns says:
Oh, I love it! :D What a fantastic retrospective. <3
2 years ago
EveningWood says:
love it! As much as I wish I could live in a vintage swimsuit I am pretty thankful that vintage replication is in now... wool just isn't the most comfortable wet fabric
2 years ago
rebourne says:
Very interesting. I find it curious that when vintage swimsuits (I think 1950s era) started coming back into style, my initial reaction was, "Wow, these women look so chunky or curvy or busty." In reality, they just look feminine and beautiful, but for years the aesthetic was bean-pole women with no curves, and I was a bit brainwashed. Now I LOVE seeing women in vintage and vintage inspired swim suits, especially here on Etsy. It's refreshing! I cannot imagine swimming in a wool outfit. It was hard enough at swim practice when we had to train with a t-shirt on!!!
2 years ago
laTeefahDoLLs1898 says:
♥...woolen~clad, is the most elegant way to enter the waTer, thank you veRy much!...♥
2 years ago
lauraprentice says:
I love that vintage/retro looking suits are coming back into style. They are hip AND flattering for many. I'm not a fan of the string bikini... not a very creative look and doesn't leave much to the imagination.
2 years ago
cameowhite says:
OH MY GOD............ Before plastic surgery / photoshop / airbrushing / diets from hell / when woman were what God gave to them / beautiful / strong / wonderful works of art....
2 years ago
ValKross says:
Very Interesting, it wasn't very comfortable for the women in the beginning:)!
2 years ago
DrVintage says:
I'm so grateful Annette broke through the barrier...wool in summer? Very interesting article!
2 years ago
ohbabydotcom says:
Fun, fun post! Sweet vintage bathing suits.
2 years ago
VeraVague says:
it's so muggy today i came straight home from work and donned a bathing suit! how appropriate.
2 years ago
TheMillineryShop says:
There is no question about it, in 1908 women were not only comfortable with their bodies but embraced all sizes and shapes while maintaining femininity. It seems that the men were uncomfortable with the female figure and thus felt the need to keep women covered up. Times have indeed changed!
2 years ago
wahlrus says:
Ug. Wool. But there's no need for the string bikini, in my opinion- it seems that makes it just as hard to swim while simultaneous remaining clothed. :) EtsyLove from, Jamie
2 years ago
shavingkitsuppplies says:
A long time ago The American Wool Council's slogan used to be, "People who have everything always wear wool". I guess she had it all ;)
2 years ago
JimmareeJewelry says:
Great article!! Unfortunately, I never heard of Annette Kellerman before today. Now I want to know more about her. A vaudeville performer, forward looking woman of her world. Fantastic!
2 years ago
MagicMarkingsArt says:
Women with insight and common sense can help change the minds of the world - way to go Annette!
2 years ago
Scrapboarding says:
Luv the pix
2 years ago
strawberryluna says:
Wow neat. I had no idea that the bathing suit was attributable to one woman. She sounds awesome too.
2 years ago
maclancy says:
silk~satin~wool ~cotton all those and more are just some of the bathing beauty suits from back then. I have an obsession with the roaring twenties bathing suits so I love sharing this poster I made from a bathing suit contest in Redondo Beach 1921 http://www.etsy.com/listing/60926510/bathing-beauty-flapper-girls-1921?ga_search_query=flapper&ga_search_type=user_shop_ttt_id_5193227 thanks for the amazing article Alison! now if the northwest could get some warm weather we could don those suits for swimming.
2 years ago
hankietankie says:
wonderful vintage styles, thanks for the fun & timely article! xo
2 years ago
frommylifetoyours says:
Wow , History is great to learn from .
2 years ago
sleekandproud says:
This is so beautiful, thanks for sharing.
2 years ago
DevineCollectible says:
My Mom was a glamor girl and I still can remember the rose color suit she had during the 50's it had a zipper in it ~ sure it wasn't comfortable, thanks for the info peace and love karen
2 years ago
DevineCollectible says:
My Mom was a glamor girl and I still can remember the rose color suit she had during the 50's it had a zipper in it ~ sure it wasn't comfortable, thanks for the info peace and love karen
2 years ago
lapetiteposy says:
swim suits have sure come a long way! I like the classic shape of these.
2 years ago
BambuEarth says:
Great Article ! So amazing how far we really have come ! love it .
2 years ago
artisticdrama says:
I love vintage bathing suits. And bathing caps! So cute.
2 years ago
LittleWrenPottery says:
I love the photo, the suit is certainly very flattering in it's own way! I can't imagine how awful it must have been to wear wool when swimming, surely it'd felt!
2 years ago
ClosetGothic says:
Great photo of Kiwi women in swimsuits! We were the first women in the World to get the vote and pretty brave on the beach. The swimsuits were amazing.
2 years ago
theroyal says:
so funny that such a cute thing should be the bane of my existence.
2 years ago
MaineCoastEngraving says:
i love this! the 1940s pic of the ladies modeling suits of the eras is AMAZING! and i love all the etsy picks! nicely done!
2 years ago
rebeccakier says:
Very inspirational article!
2 years ago
mayafisher46 says:
Great article! Thank you! ehlp with essay
2 years ago
kathyjohnson3 says:
Wow, we have come a long way! It must have been torture to try and swim in the suit from 1890!
2 years ago
baconsquarefarm says:
Great article, we've come a long way baby...once of my prized possessions is a vintage red wool bathing suit from the early 1900's. It's displayed in my kitchen-dining area. Pete made a shelf with hooks below around the top of 3 walls in this area, have all my antiques and collectibles up there, makes for interesting conversations when we have guests.
2 years ago
thevelvetheart says:
Something we don't often hear about. Very interesting!
2 years ago
ThoseThreeWords says:
Oh I love how vintage-inspired swimsuits are making a comeback! I think they're pretty and feminine and sexy--without having to bear all :) Love the photos in this article, especially the ladies modeling the swimsuits through the different eras. Thank you!
2 years ago
dementedsnowflake says:
Great article!! Annette Kellerman has been an idol of mine for a long time (I used to be a comp swimmer), so it's great to see her name getting out and about! :)
2 years ago
TheScarfTree says:
I loved reading the history of the bathing suite! Good for Annette Kellerman to follow her wishes and ideas through, and look where we are today! Great story! Thanks!
2 years ago
Iammie says:
Beautiful swimsuits.
2 years ago
ThePolkadotMagpie says:
Love costuming histories.
2 years ago
ohHenri says:
Very interesting. That's crazy that she was arrested for wearing stockings and a man's racing suit. Just imagine if the people who arrested her saw what girls wear to the pool today!
2 years ago
MollyBbikinis says:
Just adore the history of swimsuits and how far they have come!
2 years ago
SweetMoonlightShop says:
wonderful article to only make us appreciate the gorgeous swimsuit even more. especially vintage swimsuits. love all of your picks!
2 years ago
paramountvintage says:
oh my goodness! i just logged into etsy to look for a vintage bathing suit., haha, how serendipitous. thanks for all of the wonderful selections!!!
2 years ago
Zalavintage says:
Well told! Working at FIT, we get to see how vintage designs inspire our emerging designers daily, can't wait to see what innovations they come up with next!
2 years ago
dianecostanza says:
I would sink like a stone in one of those suits!
2 years ago
notApplicable says:
moDest BeauTy rocKs!
2 years ago
kararane says:
i ♡ swimming ~~ nothing could be free er than going bare :D
2 years ago
Archivia says:
Nice article. My largest vintage collection is my swimsuits! I have everything from the 70s though the 1900s ;-)
2 years ago
VanillaGrass says:
The first swimsuits consisted of bloomers and black stockings. By 1855, drawers were added to prevent the problem of exposure. Women still refrained from swimming too much; the prevailing attitude of the day was that only men should swim. Gradual improvements were being made in the cut of the suit itself. By the end of the 19th century, swimming had become an "art," as well as an intercollegiate and Olympic sport. In this environment, it finally became acceptable for women to swim. Now women's bathing suits really had an opportunity to take off. By the 1880's the "Princess" cut was introduced, consisting of a blouse and trousers in one piece. The skirts were traded in for cotton-like pants. There was also a separate skirt that fell below the knee and button at the waist to conceal the figure. A ruffled cap or a straw hat completed the ensemble.
2 years ago
stepbackink says:
Those bathing suite are alive in well in the middle east especially the one with tights :)
2 years ago
BanglewoodSupplies says:
Very informative. Thanks.
2 years ago
sparklefarm says:
>> Great piece. Summer is a comin! <<
2 years ago
heartcity says:
aw yeah swimwear is so feminist. gotta love it!
2 years ago
yogiodie says:
Great article Alison!
2 years ago
AurDenDesigns says:
We`ve come a long way Baby!
2 years ago
NoaSharonDesigns says:
great article, I am such a "sucker" for these photos... :)
2 years ago
TheIDconnection says:
Love this article! Monica TheIDConnection
2 years ago
vintagemaison says:
I remember wearing a pink ruched little number when I was about 7. It itched like anything due to the elastic, and sagged when I was in the water. I also remember sitting on the beach at Brighton, England and my friend's little girl asking why the man next to us had no clothes on. We'd stumbled onto the nudist beach when it first became legal, back in the '80s! Two extremes eh? Thank goodness for a decent swimsuit.
2 years ago
rosi3 says:
Bathing suits are so sexy! Especially when you use your curves to flaunt it!
2 years ago
jessjamesjake says:
Fabulous post! Thank you for sharing.
2 years ago
girliepains says:
sexy!
2 years ago
girliepains says:
sexy!
2 years ago
garconniere says:
this is an AMAZING ARTICLE! definitely one of the best i've ever seen on the storque.
2 years ago
HomesAndWeddings says:
That was so informative. Wow!
2 years ago
kanekl says:
Great article very interesting. I love learning about womens accomplishments with our rights. Hard to believe how much has changed, over such a short time.
1 year ago
hjmart says:
very interesting! i really didn't know the origin! what a story!
1 year ago
jantiques says:
What a fun article, love the older bathing suits! Thanks for the interesting read!
1 year ago
NICOLE Dotto from DOTTO says:
this! is! FASCINATING.
361 days ago
Metka by Traczka from metkabytraczka says:
I loved this article :-) It reminded me of a post I wrote as homage to my Grandma, where I showed her in her swimsuit in 1939! :-) It's in my language, but pics say by themselves. http://metkabytraczka.blogspot.com/2009/09/rocznica-czyli-skad-sie-wziea-metka-by.html
361 days ago
Mimi from aTreasureInStore says:
We've come a long way.....
361 days ago
LuAnn Poli from PaisleyBeading says:
Great article, Alison! I love to read about the trends in fashion through the years. That group photo is so fun! I wonder if many women in the early 1900's drowned, or nearly drowned, with the weight of all that wet fabric! I can't imagine. Hooray for Annette Kellerman, who had enough self confidence and chutzpah to see the need, create an improved version, and then wear it!
358 days ago