When you enter Impossible Conversations, the latest Costume Institute exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, you’re confronted by a dark, intimate room lit only by a bizarre film of two women sitting on opposing sides of a long dining table, sipping prosecco and hurling disjointed statements at one another. The conversational pair are Elsa Schiaparelli and Miuccia Prada, two women whose only separation, it would seem, is time. The film, created by Baz Luhrman, features actress Judy Davis (playing Schiaparelli) and Miuccia Prada engaging in a fantastical, imagined conversation that could’ve been real if it weren’t for a generational gap: the Italian-born fashion designers were born nearly 60 years apart.
The dichotomy in time is played up throughout the show, emphasizing the similar approaches both women took, and how societal conventions affected their work. In a section of the exhibition called Waist Up/Waist Down, the curators show how Schiaparelli focused her designs on a woman’s upper body, while Prada emphasized the hips and feet. Schiaparelli’s creations reflect the café society of the 1930s, when women primarily wanted to show off what could be seen when seated at a table. Embroidered, jeweled and detailed bodices and striking hats permeated Schiaparelli’s work, trappings that could’ve only been worn by a confident, cutting-edge woman. The infamous shoe hat Schiaparelli created with Salvador Dalí shows just how playful she was as a designer, producing work that was thoroughly ahead of her time.
There’s always a risk in associating two people, especially when one of them is no longer living, and at times, the connection felt forced and overwrought. For museum goers with little knowledge of Schiaparelli, the exhibition is a mind-blowing opportunity to appreciate her revolutionary work. No other 1930s fashion designer was applying oversized lobster graphics onto a silk frocks or printing Dalí-inspired slashes and tears onto a flesh-colored gown. For Prada, whose rise occurred in the 1990s, the absurdity of synthetic materials occasionally overshadow the designs, which looked all the more lifeless next to the depth in Schiaparelli’s work. Try as the curators might to emphasize the connections between the two, Schiaparelli’s work still shines bright while Prada’s designs often appeared dated.
Throughout the exhibition, Schiaparelli and Prada follow you everywhere — their voices, quotes and apparel line the walls, dissolving into a final surrealistic display of mirrored vitrines showcasing the accomplished garments of each designer. For all their similarities, the aesthetic choices of Schiaparelli and Prada are very different and often polarizing — that is the real conversation on view in this disorienting display of the playful designs of two boldly confident women.
Chappell Ellison is a designer, writer and design writer. She currently lives in Brooklyn, New York where she serves as a contributor for The Etsy Blog and design columnist for GOOD.
2 Featured Comments
Sign in to add your ownParachute425 from Parachute425 says: Featured
Schiaparelli was an idol of mine as a young fashion design student. I would love to be able to see this exhibit. This is a nice clip for those who want a peek. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iteUc2daDX8
1 year ago
Sarah from stylehybrid says: Featured
Thank you for a thoughtful critique of the exhibit! I have to disagree about Prada's pieces though. I love Schiap and thought her clothes were more beautiful to look at, but I was more moved by the statements that Prada was making with her clothes, probably because sbe's commenting on society as it is right now and I can directly relate to that, whereas it's harder to put myself in the shoes of a 1930's woman. Prada's clothes may not be as timeless, and may be more perplexing I agree, but I think that's part of her m.o. (a sense I got hearing her strikingly unconventional quotes about modern fashion and beauty throughout the exhibit). Prada's primary concern, perhaps more than the aesthetic, is wrestling with ideas, destroying conventions, and questioning the status quo, and while Schiap shared these goals, I don't think they were as paramount for her (a sense I got, I could be wrong). So it doesn't bother me that on the surface Prada's clothes may not be timeless and have the same impact 70 years from now, because I think her ideas behind them will. And what I really appreciated about this exhibit is how much it emphasized the ideas behind the fashions of these two intelligent, creative women, because it's the discussion of ideas that elevates fashion from commerce to art (though Prada might disagree :) ).
1 year ago
72 comments
Sign in to add your ownAnn from ohmymilky says:
I have seen this exhibit and it is wonderful. Thanks for sharing this.
1 year ago
VintageEye from VintageEye says:
Thank you for a glimpse of what sounds like a fabulous exhibit!
1 year ago
Hillary De Moineaux from VoleedeMoineaux says:
Beautiful!
1 year ago
Matejka Max from NattyMatty says:
Thanks for sharing!
1 year ago
sarah parker from thehouseofhemp says:
sounds incredible.
1 year ago
Natalia from KMalinkaVintage says:
Awesome post!
1 year ago
Stephanie from StringBeardCraftery says:
What an interesting way to pay homage to fashion and educate those outside of the world! I would love to see this exhibit, it sounds fascinating.
1 year ago
Edie Ann from OhHoneyHush says:
Very lovely !
1 year ago
Jess from volkerwandering says:
I wish I could be there! I read an article about this ehibition in Vogue magazine~!
1 year ago
Zoui from XZOUIX says:
oh, how i love elsa and her fabric patterns made in collaboration with dali :)
1 year ago
Bruce Green from studio215laneroad says:
Looking forward to the exhibit and the analysis of these design mavens!
1 year ago
Amanda Gynther from CafePrimrose says:
Love it!
1 year ago
Gracie from TheBeautyofBoredom says:
Sounds very interesting. I will probably never see this exhibit but it sounds like it was very thought-out, and seems as if it could be real. That is the point, at least. I am pretty interested in fashion design, and had not heard of these designers but thank you for introducing them. The shoe hat seems very odd for the time period she designed it in, but very unique.
1 year ago
Emily Jones from VintageChinchilla says:
So want to see this in person!! Eeeek!!!
1 year ago
Sonya Rasi from sonyarasi says:
I would love to see this exhibit!
1 year ago
Karen from BlingForTheTable says:
Thank you for the informative article. A nice peak back to an edgy time in fashion history. Would love to see the exhibit.
1 year ago
PB from dollydollyfashions says:
Oh, wish I could see that.
1 year ago
lovelygifts from lovelygifts says:
Interesting article. I would love to see the exhibit!
1 year ago
Naomi from OmniaVTG says:
Just went this so it's exciting to see this post! I agree, the Schiaparelli designs were drop dead amazing (the embroidery, the impeccable CUT on the jackets.. I was in heaven). And the Prada pieces lacked presence and cohesion. There were quotes where Schiaparelli described her work & process as art, while Prada said she does not consider herself an artist. I thought that was interesting in the juxtaposition of the two.
1 year ago
Shai Wallach from PopLoveCouture says:
What a spectacular exhibition. Not only does the entire exhibit sound fantastically well curated, but just the experience of being able to compare Schiparelli and Prada first-hand would be nearly worth the flight to New York!
1 year ago
Megan from MegansMenagerie says:
Great post!!!
1 year ago
Rose Waterrose from Waterrose says:
I would love to see that exhibit....I wonder if it will travel? Thanks for sharing with us!
1 year ago
Hannah Jasmine Tucker from TheMiddleButton says:
Wow, this sounds so cool!
1 year ago
Maggie from MaggieMadeWithLove says:
Lovely! Wonderful work!
1 year ago
Sara Brazil from SararaVintage says:
Elsa was a contemporary of Chanel and sometimes overlooked. I really became more aware of her after looking at the Henri Bendel Fashion drawings from the Brooklyn Museum for a fashion blog post. Amazing I can't wait to see the exhibit. As of late the fashion world has been revisiting her work, which is a good thing!
1 year ago
iammieCLAYshop from iammieCLAYshop says:
Cool post!
1 year ago
s. batcakes from BatcakesCouture says:
I'm going next month and I can't wait. Schiaparelli is my hero! Thank you for posting about these brilliant designers!!!
1 year ago
Kiova Staley from joyridevintage says:
Fashion history tidbits like this are food for the soul. Thoughtful comparisons and summary of the exhibit.Thank you and I would love to see more like this on Etsy in the future!
1 year ago
ilanit bronstein from telepelekids says:
Very intresting!wish i could see that!!!
1 year ago
Anna from fannyandjune says:
Seeing Schiaparelli's work in person was an incomparable experience. I could have spent an hour just admiring her buttons. Lovely review of the exhibit. The MET is pay what you want, so no excuses for not going New Yorkers.
1 year ago
Susanne Major from LineaLina says:
I was interested in fashion since I was a child. I used to work in the fashion design industry in my former life, so I would really, really love to visit this exhibition. At least your article has given me a very good idea of it! Thank you so much for sharing!
1 year ago
Tatjana from TanjaDesign says:
I have already read about this exhibition, I wish I could see it. Elsa Schiaparelli was a great artist ahead of her time and will be an inspiration for generations.
1 year ago
anny schoo from annyschooecoclothing says:
The passion of loving what they do is why they are so great! I enjoyed this article.
1 year ago
anny schoo from annyschooecoclothing says:
The passion of loving what they do is why they are so great! I enjoy this article. :)
1 year ago
Emily Lim from shuqi says:
great article. art are passion and beauty with all the nature art:)
1 year ago
paola frusteri from paolafrusteri says:
...Gergeous!!!!...Great Elsa and Miuccia and the writer of course
1 year ago
Emma G. from dreammor says:
Me encantaría ver esa exposición, Gracias por compartir con nosotros!
1 year ago
paulinepiu1 says:
great!!!
1 year ago
Connie Haskell from redemptionart says:
What a great article, especially that it extols fashion art! Thank you!
1 year ago
Connie Haskell from redemptionart says:
Great article...yes, fashion is art!
1 year ago
Parachute425 from Parachute425 says: Featured
Schiaparelli was an idol of mine as a young fashion design student. I would love to be able to see this exhibit. This is a nice clip for those who want a peek. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iteUc2daDX8
1 year ago
Sarah from stylehybrid says: Featured
Thank you for a thoughtful critique of the exhibit! I have to disagree about Prada's pieces though. I love Schiap and thought her clothes were more beautiful to look at, but I was more moved by the statements that Prada was making with her clothes, probably because sbe's commenting on society as it is right now and I can directly relate to that, whereas it's harder to put myself in the shoes of a 1930's woman. Prada's clothes may not be as timeless, and may be more perplexing I agree, but I think that's part of her m.o. (a sense I got hearing her strikingly unconventional quotes about modern fashion and beauty throughout the exhibit). Prada's primary concern, perhaps more than the aesthetic, is wrestling with ideas, destroying conventions, and questioning the status quo, and while Schiap shared these goals, I don't think they were as paramount for her (a sense I got, I could be wrong). So it doesn't bother me that on the surface Prada's clothes may not be timeless and have the same impact 70 years from now, because I think her ideas behind them will. And what I really appreciated about this exhibit is how much it emphasized the ideas behind the fashions of these two intelligent, creative women, because it's the discussion of ideas that elevates fashion from commerce to art (though Prada might disagree :) ).
1 year ago
Vinpro Elegance from vinproelegance says:
Great post.
1 year ago
Liesl Carlson from lcarlsonjewelry says:
I wish that I could see it. I doubt that I will be able to get there before it closes :( .Thank you so much for sharing. I love to hear about the history and the like.
1 year ago
Gabrielle Knight from RuffleNBustle says:
Awesome!
1 year ago
messinabella from BandBEstate says:
Great post!
1 year ago
Marcia Lacher from TheMillineryShop says:
Hmm, I can't seem to wrap my head around this comparison. What woman really wants to have her lower half focused on?? Sciap understood beauty in a woman and what it took to bring it out, while Prada in my opinion seems more focused on the clothes themselves. And of course you just can't eclipse a great hat.
1 year ago
C'est Superbe from CestSuperbe says:
What I took away most from the exhibition when I was lucky enough to visit it a couple of weeks ago, was how Schiaparelli was actually a very shy person except when it came to how she presented herself to the world with her clothing. I also really enjoyed the video and thought both women came across as just very nice people. :)
1 year ago
mythunderstood from mythunderstood says:
Will have to see this! Schiap has been a longtime favorite, love reading anything about her.
1 year ago
collectiblesatoz from collectiblesatoz says:
Wonderful post. Thanks for sharing. Please visit collectiblesatoz for vintage Neiman-Marcus postcard of Elsa Schiaparelli by famed Paris artist Vertes.
1 year ago
TheSewingGin from TheSewingGin says:
Thanks for the great post. Wuld love to see the exhibit.
1 year ago
topsyturvydesign from topsyturvydesign says:
I was fortunate enough to be in Paris for the Schiaparelli Exhibit back in 2004(?) It blew my mind. She was to clothes what Dali was to art.
1 year ago
vintage clothing store from vintageclothingstore says:
Just watched the audio and video! It's amazing! Thank you for sharing this!
1 year ago
Elenie Gnesios from Glasscreekstudio says:
What a great read on two amazing designers and what an inovative concept to put these two ladies together in a museum showcase. Thanks so much for this article and its connections to other sites highlighting some of Ms. Schaiaparelli's collaborations with Salvador Dali from one of my favorite eras for fashion, the 1930's. Fasinating!
1 year ago
Sukran Kirtis from PearlJewelryNecklace says:
Fantastic article, I enjoyed it very much Thank you
1 year ago
jessica from brighteststar says:
Great article. Thank you!
1 year ago
Kathleen from myvintagecrush says:
wow, that would be awesome to see :)
1 year ago
Michaela Stephens from ArtsyFlair says:
Great article! :)
1 year ago
LivingVintage from LivingVintage says:
Awesome! A must see.
1 year ago
Leasa from LeasaDesigns says:
Thank you for the post - sounds interesting - love to see it!
1 year ago
Kimberlee from GracefullyGirly says:
I wish I could see it in person! Thanks for your insights.
1 year ago
Dione from LittleAppleNY says:
Now I know what I'm doing this afternoon----heading to the Met. Thanks!
1 year ago
Cougar T-Shirt Company from CougarTShirtCompany says:
This was very interesting! Thank you!
1 year ago
Lola Ocian from GoldenSpiralDesigns says:
Swoon! I love Baz Luhrman and Judy Davis. That must be a fantastic exhibit! Thanks for opening my eyes to this. It's fascinating that a designer would be influenced by "cafe' culture" - such that they would be designing mostly for the part of a woman that is visible above a table. Ha!
1 year ago
Jessa Cady from Spiderbunny says:
Thanks for sharing, this is an interesting article! ^ . ^
1 year ago
bagladybooty from bagladybooty says:
I recently purchased, a pair of Prada pumps at Goodwill. They cost $12.99! I tried to stifle my squeals of excitement, but I drew quite a curious crowd. A group of women were waiting for me to drop them. Fat, fashion chance! Now, I just need a special occasion to wear them.
1 year ago
Paula and Gillian from FrogPrinceOccasions says:
What a fascinating comparison of two juxtaposed women in ideals as Schiaparelli and Prada. I love the idea of joining the two women from their contrasts and similarities, despite the age gap. It makes me want to board a plane and visit this exhibit immediately!
1 year ago
Elizabeth Novak from withcaregoods says:
I feel like this was a very even-handed review of the show. I saw it two weeks ago and was taken back by the real “hot mess” organization of the entire thing. Between the wall quotes, the smaller wall quotes, the invasive audio, the weird, side-to-side, window-shopping-style layout, and the constant video (even the still photographs were sneakily moving!!!!), I’m not sure if I can remember seeing any of the clothes at all. I agree that the juxtapositions were simple, maybe even flimsy (ie “Schiaparelli used fruit…OMG! So did Prada!”). The pairing did have a feel of arbitrariness to it. Is it weird that I didn’t even consider the anti-fashion aspect of the whole thing? Possibly because I was so busy being hit over the head with brutal similarity and the repetitive pull-quotes? And other museum patrons who just couldn’t withhold their Prada brand-worship? Even the book was more of a cheesy fashion editorial and seemed to have nothing in common with the exhibit! On the other hand, having my face inches away from some of the Schiaparelli pieces was like meeting some famous movie hunk and staring deeply into their eyes; everything just kind of fell away and I was a lucky audience of one.
1 year ago
Fridalarsen's Fridalarsen's from fridalarsensvintage says:
Despite the criticism of the curation of this exhibition, I would love to go to it. Sounds like a must-see for any vintage lover. Shame London is so far away.
1 year ago
liddy sopretty from liddysopretty says:
I would love to see this exhibit :)
363 days ago
metroretrovintage from metroretrovintage says:
Thank you for covering this exhibit and the reminder of it. I had been meaning to go, and now you've inspired me to do so sooner rather than later.
361 days ago
Dominique Adeli from KidzCreationz says:
wow i want to see this amazing exhibit
324 days ago