Who Put Americans in Jeans and T-Shirts?

ElizabethGoodCloset

Women’s clothing once looked like an elaborate layered cake. Floor-length dresses were made of reams of fabric, often covered in trims and details like lace and embroidery, and supported by chemises, bustles, crinolines, corsets, and petticoats. Over the last 150 years, fashionable dress has shed layers and complexity to the point where many Americans spend their lives on the other denim-clad end of the spectrum. Modern, on-the-go lifestyles and women’s increasing freedoms are often cited for today’s laid-back modes of dress. We just like what’s comfortable, right? But what’s often overlooked is how mass manufacturing and the imperatives of what is easiest and cheapest to mass-produce simplify and ultimately dumb down what we wear.

Clothing was once entirely handsewn and custom made, either in the home or by a dressmaker or tailor. All of that began to change in the early 1900s, as America and particularly New York’s Seventh Avenue established itself as a sophisticated ready-to-wear manufacturer, capable of producing large volumes of readymade clothes. The iconic flapper styles of the 1920s with their shorter hemlines and lack of underthings embodied women’s more liberated roles, but the flapper dresses’ straight, unfitted waists were also easy for primitive mass manufactures to handle. This was at a time when factories were struggling with standardizing sizes. Consumer historian Jan Whitaker says, “The fact that these dresses didn’t have to be fitted was not insignificant at a time when the industry was incapable of producing a fitted dress for the whole population.” Coco Chanel’s “little black dress” was also a ’20s creation. Because it has a fitted waist, the LDB was trickier to mass-manufacture, but as early as 1926, American Vogue likened the LBD to the Ford, alluding not only to its universal appeal but to its uniformity and utter simplicity that seemed made for the factory line.

retroresource

Ladies' Home Journal, 1926

In the ensuing decades, clothing became simpler still, with separates replacing one-piece dresses and suits and casual cotton clothing known as “sportswear” taking off in the post-World War II years. Whitaker says the increasing influence of youth culture, the acceptance of cotton (a cheaper fabric than wool), and the development of sportswear all contributed to the simplification of fashion during this time, as did the women’s movement and the emergence of ready-to-wear fashion designers.

But it wasn’t until the garment industry moved offshore in the 1980s and 1990s that true mass-manufactured clothing as we understand it today occurred, with single styles produced in the tens of thousands, hundreds of thousands, and sometimes millions of pieces. It’s no coincidence that this is when Americans became truly wed to their jeans and T-shirts. Ilse Metchek, the president of the California Fashion Association, affirms that fit once again played a role in the explosion of casual dressing. “If you’re making large quantities,” she says, “you make a T-shirt or jeans because they fit the largest number of people.” Other factors were at play: with clothes being made on the other side of the world and planned a year in advance, only the safest and most profitable styles won out. Clothing companies also became more corporate and consolidated, and dumbing down fashion was a way to mitigate the risky business of fashion.

What seemed like a consumer-driven trend — the extreme minimalism of the 1990s — was in many ways created by huge, mass-market clothing corporations like Gap, The Limited, and J. Crew. Producing clothing that virtually anyone will wear from Florida to Oregon means producing styles at the lowest common denominator — more T-shirts, jeans, basics, and “classic” sportswear. As Teri Agins writes in her book The End of Fashion: How Marketing Changed the Clothing Business Forever, “Such mainstream styles are far easier for designers to execute on a commercial scale, in that they are cheaper and safer to produce, with less margin for error in the far-flung factories…where much of today’s apparel is made.” Even high-end designers made a killing off minimalistic fashion in the 1990s, with Ralph Lauren popularizing a sleeveless, shapeless shift with an American flag on the front, for example.

Today, fast fashion chains like H&M and Forever 21 order styles in smaller numbers than a basics company like UNIQLO or Gap, and have the flexibility to be more fashionable as a result. H&M is currently selling a pretty cute Goth-inspired “short, fitted dress in glossy velour,” for example. It can be yours for a jaw-dropping $9.95, a price achieved both by its cheap materials (polyester and elastane) but also by its simple construction and lack of detail — it’s little more than a few yards of stretchy, forgiving fabric slapped together.

Few would prefer we go back to wearing a corset or a petticoat every time we step out the door — but we underestimate the power of what’s put in front of us and the limited looks available in our consolidated fashion landscape. “People tend to like what’s available and the choices given to them,” agrees Whitaker. Casual and simple clothing’s complete dominance is not a foregone conclusion. I think our adoration of red carpet couture gowns, Kate Middleton’s wedding dress, and even Lada Gaga’s costumes are evidence enough that consumers aren’t satisfied with the fashion zeitgeist. Corporate retailers will always sell what’s safe and factories will prefer unfussy styles that don’t require a lot of set-up and training, but that’s where the handmade, custom-made and slow clothing have their edge. Jeans and T-shirts have their place, but they should be balanced out by a national wardrobe that includes more craftsmanship, detail and personal expression.

More Posts on Sustainability and Fashion

Elizabeth Cline is a Brooklyn-based writer working on a book about responsible shopping in the age of cheap fashion, when low prices and rapid turnover of styles have ignited out-of-control clothing consumption. The book, called Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion, will be published by Penguin Portfolio in June 2012. You can follow the project at The Good Closet.

3 Featured Comments

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  • KettleConfections

    KettleConfections says: Featured

    Fascinating look into how the current state of fashion evolved- there are plenty of options besides t-shirts and jeans, but the well tailored piece of any article of clothing is a rare find. If we just learned to make some of our own clothing, we can maybe revive the cloth mills and make the fashion culture much less generic.

    111 days ago

  • maimy

    maimy says: Featured

    It's easy to bash modern clothing styles as boring or highly commercialised, but it should be remembered that at every point in history, fashions has ben subject to criticism - no one style is perfect. Fact is that jeans and t-shirts are practical and comfortable; it's not fair to assume that they are *purely* a product of big corporations somehow manipulating us to consume. Look up the history of the individual garments. Both were designed for practiality and durability, not for fashion. People have to have liked them enough for there to be a mass market for them! It's also worth remembering the social change that's occurred that has made it acceptable for us all (regardless of gender, age, etc.) to be wearing indigo-dyed denim trousers and fine knit pullover tops in the first place. Jersey and denim kind of define the age we're living in. It's a bit bizarre! I could go on. Who'd have thought there'd be so many complex issues raised by our good ol' jeans & t-shirt. XD Great article!

    110 days ago

  • Sloanester

    Sloanester says: Featured

    Very true and thought provoking. You are motivating me to break out my tights and skirts. It's the time it takes to get dressed that always draws me to t shirts and jeans and outdoor time. I agree that vintage shops have made their mark so much because of the quality that you find in clothes of yesterday and people's appreciation of that.

    110 days ago

  • VoleedeMoineaux

    VoleedeMoineaux says:

    Ooooooooh yeaaaaaaaa!

    111 days ago

  • MegansMenagerie

    MegansMenagerie says:

    I love my jeans and tee shirts!!!

    111 days ago

  • VogueVixens

    VogueVixens says:

    I have a really hard time finding nice dresses in stores. They are so shapeless now, and I really hate stretch polyester. Comfort is over-rated, if it doesn't look good. So sewing is the only way I can make something that is flattering, fitting, and supporting.-------------------------------------------------------- While cotton is cheaper and easier to care for than wool, during the industrial revolution the mills of England were making imported cotton into cloth. They only exported it, and to protect their own wool industry they made it illegal for people in England to have or wear cotton cloth. Of course because it was so much cheaper, people did it anyway. They were probably sick of wearing wool undergarments.

    111 days ago

  • freerangeart

    freerangeart says:

    I live in jeans and t-shirts, because I am out doors a lot. But would love to see more tailored fashion. I do not appreciate voluminous unstructured clothing. I think clothes should flatter ones shape without having to be stick thin. Seems the cheaper the clothing the more stretch they put into it so it will accommodate more sizes. Hooray for etsy designers and all the beautiful hand made tailored to fit clothing!

    111 days ago

  • myvintagecrush

    myvintagecrush says:

    Great post, gets ya thinking..

    111 days ago

  • mygoddess

    mygoddess says:

    yes, great info. thanks!

    111 days ago

  • ballandchain

    ballandchain says:

    Great article!

    111 days ago

  • RivalryTime

    RivalryTime says:

    Nice fashion history.

    111 days ago

  • SoliDeoGloriaSDG

    SoliDeoGloriaSDG says:

    Great article. I LOVE dressing in a feminine style - jeans and t-shirts just aren't my style. I don't own jeans or t-shirts and wouldn't want to be caught dead in it.

    111 days ago

  • empressjade

    empressjade says:

    There is such a large market for vintage clothing beause of the great diversity of styles available but also the quality of fabric, finishing and details simply beats modern mall clothes. For example; when is the last time you saw beautiful seaming or an underarm gusset on a modern dress? Todays manufactuers rely too much on stretch fabric for fit in my opinion.

    111 days ago

  • volkerwandering

    volkerwandering says:

    Very insightful! I enjoyed this article

    111 days ago

  • andiespecialtysweets

    andiespecialtysweets says:

    This is great and so true. My husband and I have been trying to replace our wardrobe with quality pieces and are enjoying the freedom of having less. There is definitely a certain dignity that is either aroused or diminished by what we wear.

    111 days ago

  • auldlangsyne1

    auldlangsyne1 says:

    Very interesting article! KK

    111 days ago

  • berryisland

    berryisland says:

    I believe the first picture is called a Canadian tuxedo :D

    111 days ago

  • KKSimpleRegalJewelry

    KKSimpleRegalJewelry says:

    Thanks for posting! Good article, and very interesting! ~Krista

    111 days ago

  • peaseblossomstudio

    peaseblossomstudio says:

    I would put Tshirts (not beer tshirts) and jeans at the better end of what is manufactured these days. Everyone can look good in a Tshirt and jeans combined with a sweater or blazer. But rarely do people look good in trends and patterns and weird cuts and colors of clothing. I long for a shift to simpler styles in less garish colors and patterns.

    111 days ago

  • MagnetoidMagnets

    MagnetoidMagnets says:

    Awesome insight to what may predicting the course of your self expression! Thanks for the food for thought!

    111 days ago

  • AvianInspirations

    AvianInspirations says:

    The best option seems to be either to learn to sew and knit, or to shop at places like Etsy. Yes, please.

    111 days ago

  • lilinspirations

    lilinspirations says:

    Gotta love jeans!

    111 days ago

  • birdie1

    birdie1 says:

    Really interesting - thank you.

    111 days ago

  • BellaBeadsOriginals

    BellaBeadsOriginals says:

    Interesting article! I love my jeans and tees, but it's all about the accessories!

    111 days ago

  • HomeStudio

    HomeStudio says:

    Great article. Love it! Thank you.

    111 days ago

  • Rt9NJvintageFun

    Rt9NJvintageFun says:

    Great Article, thanks to all the vintage Shops on Etsy, keep on adding to your inventory. I am a forever customer, my mall days are over, Amen!

    111 days ago

  • KettleConfections

    KettleConfections says: Featured

    Fascinating look into how the current state of fashion evolved- there are plenty of options besides t-shirts and jeans, but the well tailored piece of any article of clothing is a rare find. If we just learned to make some of our own clothing, we can maybe revive the cloth mills and make the fashion culture much less generic.

    111 days ago

  • NannyMadeandfound

    NannyMadeandfound says:

    Wow, really made me think.... I do love the comfort of today's fashion, though I see the way we've given up unique and artistic individuality in the process. I will see what I can do to "up" my image a bit! I find most of my clothes at resale and goodwill shops, so maybe I will just search a little harder from now on :-)

    111 days ago

  • ArtFromEden

    ArtFromEden says:

    I definitely agree. Style is more in the printed images on tees now rather than patterns, shape and fit. It would be great to find some more unique, individualized pieces.

    111 days ago

  • TheMillineryShop

    TheMillineryShop says:

    It's true that clothing is nothing like it once was, both in style, comfort, manufacture and availability. But even as we all sit in our comfortable, easy to obtain jeans and T's, we can't seem to get enough of peaks at the clothes from days gone by. Something about all the frou-frou and hand stitching is mesmerizing to see and ponder.

    111 days ago

  • atomiclivinhome

    atomiclivinhome says:

    I'm making my own tops, to go with my fav jeans, that meet my creative needs and unique style. I can't find anything that I really love in the stores. It's mostly boring and same ole, same ole. 'nuff said! ; )

    111 days ago

  • hmmills

    hmmills says:

    I love reading about the history of a trend or style

    111 days ago

  • baileybuttons23

    baileybuttons23 says:

    I wear sweatpants and pajama pants all day long!!! That's true counter culture.

    111 days ago

  • OnlyOriginalsByAJ

    OnlyOriginalsByAJ says:

    I completely agree! I try to jazz up my own style by adding fun accessories :)

    111 days ago

  • CACoastVintage

    CACoastVintage says:

    Great article. I love my jeans too! I just thought it was a CA thing to do. I could be gardening by the day and change my top for formal at night!

    111 days ago

  • letl260

    letl260 says:

    Excellent article! Unfortunately most Americans are obsessed with cheap junk These mass produced items have no place on etsy, BEWARE some shops are trying to pass this junk off as vintage, handmade, and "redesigned" clothing. Etsy's true artisians and vintage clothing dealers are competing with junk.

    111 days ago

  • Parachute425

    Parachute425 says:

    "nothing comes between me and my Calvins"

    111 days ago

  • breadandroses2

    breadandroses2 says:

    Thanks so much, Elizabeth, for a well-written recap of mass-produced clothing and leti260 for saying what so many Etsy sellers & customers think about the huge amounts of faux/fraudulent handmade and other goods flooding this venue. The 9.99 scarf from India, Thailand, China, etc. simply cannot be authentic Handmade or if it is, it's a factory sweatshop with employees working for 25¢/hr (China) or less (think Vietnam, others). Scratch a lie, find a thief.

    111 days ago

  • whimsywireandwool

    whimsywireandwool says:

    Ts and Jeans are always sexy!! Ts for women have come a long way and are so much more figure flattering, thus even sexier! Great article!

    111 days ago

  • megansbeadeddesigns

    megansbeadeddesigns says:

    Agree completely! Honestly, I don't own a t-shirt, and i rarely wear jeans. I'm a shy person so I let my clothing do the talking. I also love any excuse to wear a formal gown (touring broadway shows, etc) so I have a full closet of ones I've picked up from thrift stores over the years!

    111 days ago

  • jeweledlion

    jeweledlion says:

    My little 4 year old neice recently wore a "party" dress her auntie from Rome had given her to a family gathering. I was stunned by the beauty and detail of this silk dress. How I wish it had been in my size! The pleated and stiched detail was impressive, the shape interesting, and the discreet aurora borealis sequins sparingly added under the sheer overskirt magical. This was a childs party dress - from Italy. It made me feel sad for our clothing options (from stores) and our own lack of imagination in dressing - and yes I do wear t-shirts and jeans. I remember wearing much more beautiful and interesting clothing when I was younger (I'm 64) and I don't remember being uncomfortable or resticted. Makes me want to learn how to sew. Thanks for this thoughtful article.

    111 days ago

  • juicylucydanger

    juicylucydanger says:

    Given a choice between the mass produced tawdry horrors that pass for garments today and a vintage frock (with petticoat), I'll gladly take the latter.

    111 days ago

  • heli76

    heli76 says:

    Yeah. It makes me laugh that the its the people who are brave and passionate enough to express themselves are the ones that most call 'fashion victims'.

    111 days ago

  • LeatherheadOriginals

    LeatherheadOriginals says:

    I never liked the idea of paying $$$ to wear a corporate logo plastered on a T- shirt! Same goes for hats. I don't own ONE baseball hat, never will! Its custom, handmade hats I offer to the world! I do wear jeans or cargo pants a lot, paired with a leather vest and hat that I designed:)

    111 days ago

  • SteampunkPrussia

    SteampunkPrussia says:

    I wear trousers, dress shirt, and bow tie every single day, and I'm a 15 year old boy!

    111 days ago

  • elleestpetite

    elleestpetite says:

    I couldn't agree more. I love jeans and shirts as much as any girl, but one of my favorite items of clothing to wear would have to be my vintage floral dress. So well made and fits like a glove, it really makes me feel special just wearing it. And I think that's what many mass produced items are missing: the attention to detail and that "one of a kind" feel.

    111 days ago

  • statesmanties

    statesmanties says:

    I think there are many people out there these days that just don't care about how clothes fit on them. Knowing this and trying myself to get clothes that fit is difficult at times. I'll spend money on a tailor adjusting clothes off the rack for me when I get a really good item, but most of the time, I have to get clothes that are a little too big. (Or not long enough. I'm 6'4".) I get that mass produced items are made to fit the masses, but how hard would it be to make some more in-between sizes? I don't know...Either way, I'm such a big fan of custom fit clothes and wish I could afford more, more often! Nice post!

    111 days ago

  • PoetryofObjects

    PoetryofObjects says:

    I have made and worn clothing I've sewn myself every single day for 30 years. I do it for comfort, creativity, quality. Alot of women ask me where I get my frock/dresses because they look so comfortable. I understand the whole mass marketing/consumerism/cheap labor/corporate greed mentality. I know folks are longing for more creative clothing choices/options than are made available to them. I see signs around me of people waking up to wanting...needing...more choices in every area of their life. Great article...thanks so much!

    111 days ago

  • PattiTrostle

    PattiTrostle says:

    Jeans and t-shirts are just about all I wear!

    111 days ago

  • minouette

    minouette says:

    Very interesting context for what seems to be natural and consumer-driven.

    111 days ago

  • packmatthews

    packmatthews says:

    Excellent article. My wife has been educating me about these issues for years. She came back from Thailand a couple of years ago with two tailored suits that looked grand on her but she could never get here. I certainly prefer the full figure tailored look.

    111 days ago

  • funkomavintage

    funkomavintage says:

    I have refused to buy slave produced ...anything...and 99.999% of my purchases are made from folks/companies that have, at least, a chance to organize and demand and get fair wages. I am so disgusted by so many young people who flaunt their "look at me in F21" blogs!!....yeah, it's why I deal in vintage. Thanks for a very thought-provoking article..... as I sit here in US made jeans and a US made tshirt....and what letl260 said.

    111 days ago

  • Iammie

    Iammie says:

    Interesting story!

    111 days ago

  • artsyEVE

    artsyEVE says:

    Interesting and thought provoking! I think the qualities of hand-made clothing will always be appreciated, but no doubt, the mass marketing of factory-made items will always win the most consumers.

    111 days ago

  • papernickle

    papernickle says:

    Not everyone looks good in jeans...lol. I have not worn a pair of jeans since the day my daughter was born three years ago(actually more like 4 months before then), and in fact, do not own a single pair of jeans at all anymore. They were all taken to the thrift shop. My wardrobe consists of vintage dresses, handmade dresses from etsy sellers and thrifted hoodies/skirts(because some vintage dresses just aren't stretchy enough for vigorous play with a toddler, haha!). I do not find jeans comfortable at all, just as I do not find the pressure to wear jeans(as I have been told many times that I am "weird" for wearing only dresses here in the MidWest) comfortable either.

    111 days ago

  • PaperMaison

    PaperMaison says:

    Love this article! I've been curious about how things have changed so much these past decades!

    111 days ago

  • seabornpress

    seabornpress says:

    Interesting article! I guess corporations can easily take advantage of everyone thinking that these minimal, lazy styles are the natural course of things and sell us on comfort. Never thought about it this way myself! I almost never wear tshirts and jeans but I'm never uncomfortable! If it wasn't comfy, I wouldn't wear it...it's such a silly idea that wearing anything different is somehow stodgy and uncomfortable. Jeans are just about the most uncomfortable clothing item out there! I would love it if we gradually return to fewer mass-produced items and different fashions that don't base themselves on that mass production return. That would be exciting!

    111 days ago

  • junkgarden

    junkgarden says:

    Interesting article!

    111 days ago

  • RetroRevivalBoutique

    RetroRevivalBoutique says:

    I'm an old fashioned girl with a deep love for vintage (esp. handmade) because of the quality and uniqueness that used to be put into clothing. I would love to see less "walmartification" and more individuality.

    111 days ago

  • DCFraulein

    DCFraulein says:

    Etsy and online stores like modcloth most definitely corner the "handmade, custom-made and slow clothing" market. A fan of vintage style dresses, I love being able to wear the quality of clothing the article mentions (without the hassle of finding the right dress in the wrong size) for very little additional cost.

    111 days ago

  • piecesofelises

    piecesofelises says:

    Very interesting! It's funny to think about how fashion really has become "dumbed" down over the years, and yet the manufacturers have made so much money from it!

    111 days ago

  • HaveAndHold

    HaveAndHold says:

    Wonderful article.

    110 days ago

  • thevicagirl

    thevicagirl says:

    Just for the record, I would perfer to wear something nice with details instead of jeans and a tshirt.

    110 days ago

  • MishaGirl

    MishaGirl says:

    Illuminating! While I have no desire to wear a tight fitting corset, I do wish the attempt to define a woman's waistline were more in fashion these days! Alas, I think clothing manufacturer's are harking back to the 1920's for their inspiration.....the unfitted waistline has made a comeback. The irony....I've opted for curve defining jeans and a fitted t-shirts as my daily look! So either way, I guess the dumbing down of fashion has affected the best of us :-0

    110 days ago

  • 2HIP2CLIC

    2HIP2CLIC says:

    This great article feeds me. Here's what my husband and I are doing. We find a lot of satisfaction in a responsible lifestyle- self sustaining, know where your water is, where your food comes from, your energy, etc. Consequently, we began noticing the poor craftsmanship on 'affordable' clothing, the poor fit, and how everything is made out of plastic based materials, and if it is cotton, if it isn't "organic," there's actually a 90% chance it's been doused in pesticides. While there are very talented and aware taylor's out there, most of what is so readily available is uniform and looks like it belongs with stepford wives. So, we started collecting yards of fabric we like, organic cotton, wool, raw silk, anything that is natural and feels good. The idea is to start tailoring some of our own clothes, altering clothes, reproducing patterns of clothes we like. We want it to be functional, long lasting, and to let the skin feel good in it's own confident style. It's true that good fabric can be costly, and the time spent on your creation can be timely, but kind of like traditionally grown food, the advantages far out weigh everything else.

    110 days ago

  • ThePolkadotMagpie

    ThePolkadotMagpie says:

    Thanks for the wardrobe history. I miss sharp dressed men.

    110 days ago

  • miss32act

    miss32act says:

    Interesting article! I spend most days in jeans (not so much the tees) but love love love to really dress up - and do so whenever I have the chance. My motto is "overdressed for every occasion". I have long bemoaned the poor quality of mass produced clothing for women and children; I don't think the quality of men's clothing has declined quite as much - just look at the difference in fabrics in men's and women's "dress" clothes. Looking forward to the publication of your book!

    110 days ago

  • vintagethisretrothat

    vintagethisretrothat says:

    excellent and interesting, really gave me something to think about

    110 days ago

  • genisepark

    genisepark says:

    I love my jeans and t shirts and when they are worn...I love to weave them up into durable rugs....

    110 days ago

  • Velvet3

    Velvet3 says:

    Excellent article! Indeed clothing seems to have become the fashion equivalent of junk food in recent decades. But if the recent passion for vintage and one-of-a-kind handmade pieces indicates anything, it's that the desire for original design and quality craftsmanship is not lost entirely. Let's hope that passion continues to grow! I look forward to your upcoming book.

    110 days ago

  • ChinaCarnellaFineArt

    ChinaCarnellaFineArt says:

    Unfortunately, I really don't like the jeans and t-shirt look on either men or women.

    110 days ago

  • michaelhutton1

    michaelhutton1 says:

    Loved this interesting post. Reminded me of my Grandmother who was a seamstress in the early 1900's. In our small town she custom made clothing for many people in the town, for many years. As I recall it was a very rewarding experience for her. The people loved the talent she had and therefore people kept coming back for more custom made clothing.

    110 days ago

  • mattyhandmadecrafts

    mattyhandmadecrafts says:

    Interesting!

    110 days ago

  • vintagemaison

    vintagemaison says:

    In France, until quite recently, many clothes were hand made at home or run up by the local seamstress - French women like to look chic and a little different. Nowadays of course, globalisation has meant that clothes are similar and there isn't that diversity of fashion - unless one is rich!

    110 days ago

  • cadreams

    cadreams says:

    Great article! @ vintagemaison-yes, even with the soldes the prices are still sky high!

    110 days ago

  • CestSuperbe

    CestSuperbe says:

    I can always appreciate a good article on clothing. :) I have a love for clothes and not for the mainstream. “People tend to like what’s available and the choices given to them,” Well, I am certainly not one of those people. And I hear a lot of people complaining about the lack of choice: all stores carry the same clothing styles and not only that. The Exact Same article, from the same factory, can be found in multiple stores, high and low end stores, just with a different brand attached to it. Somewhere the connection between price-quality-brand has disappeared. The move of the garment industry to countries with low wages has not only resulted in poorly made clothes, it has also caused a shift in the materials used. Materials that, just a couple of years back, were only used for the cheapest of cardigans, coats and shoes are now used predominantly in the clothing industry. The decrease in the cost of making clothes by lower wages, has oddly lead to a trend to further decrease cost by using inferior materials, thus leading to an even higher profit margin on each garment. As you can tell, I'm not liking this trend. :) And it's time companies realise there are a lot of consumers that like quality and diversity.

    110 days ago

  • cottonbirddesigns

    cottonbirddesigns says:

    Interesting article!

    110 days ago

  • juror2

    juror2 says:

    Hmmm interesting... personally, I think tee shirts can express your personality in ways that other clothes, or accessories, just can't.

    110 days ago

  • SusiesBoutiqueTLC

    SusiesBoutiqueTLC says:

    Great article. Thank you.

    110 days ago

  • BePeaced

    BePeaced says:

    Elizabeth, this is the first article that I have read by you and I LOVE IT! I am very interested in your upcoming book. Now I have something to look forward to in June 2012!

    110 days ago

  • Angelender

    Angelender says:

    I wish the Sari would come into ready wear in America!

    110 days ago

  • elenamc

    elenamc says:

    Great article - 2 comments: 1- my husband was costumed for the "Low Life" (set in 1915 and stars Jeremy Renner) film yesterday and they put him in the coolest early 1900s jeans - they looked fab! 2- that looks to be my old Riding Instructor Matt Collins in that jeans photo! - he was stunning!

    110 days ago

  • baconsquarefarm

    baconsquarefarm says:

    Enjoyed reading your article and look forward to the book~Took me awhile to warm up to wearing jeans and t-sirts but you can dress them up or down with accessories. Thank you for the article.

    110 days ago

  • brewershirts

    brewershirts says:

    It's interesting how an entire generation that grew up in jeans and t-shirts now sees "dressing up" as an inconvenience. I look back to the Turn of the Century (1900, not 2000) and wonder how on earth people lived wearing wool suits, starched collars, and thick all-over undergarments and lived in houses without air conditioning, central heat, wall-to-wall carpet, modern lighting, refrigerators and electricity in every room. Boggles the mind.

    110 days ago

  • lucyspearl

    lucyspearl says:

    Great article. Very inspirational. I was just contemplating this morning why I shop at H&M when I have the skill to make my own clothes and also recycle what I already have. You are right, I often accept what is placed in front of me yet complain that the industry has no originality. I guess I have to be the change I want to see. Thats why I love etsy.

    110 days ago

  • Woolbridge

    Woolbridge says:

    so true! as a seamstress, going to the mall annoys me. The latest "shirt" trends are unreal, just a rectangle with the seams left open for head and arms. I look forward to reading you book when it's published!

    110 days ago

  • littlebrownpen

    littlebrownpen says:

    Very thought provoking. Looking forward to the book.

    110 days ago

  • maimy

    maimy says: Featured

    It's easy to bash modern clothing styles as boring or highly commercialised, but it should be remembered that at every point in history, fashions has ben subject to criticism - no one style is perfect. Fact is that jeans and t-shirts are practical and comfortable; it's not fair to assume that they are *purely* a product of big corporations somehow manipulating us to consume. Look up the history of the individual garments. Both were designed for practiality and durability, not for fashion. People have to have liked them enough for there to be a mass market for them! It's also worth remembering the social change that's occurred that has made it acceptable for us all (regardless of gender, age, etc.) to be wearing indigo-dyed denim trousers and fine knit pullover tops in the first place. Jersey and denim kind of define the age we're living in. It's a bit bizarre! I could go on. Who'd have thought there'd be so many complex issues raised by our good ol' jeans & t-shirt. XD Great article!

    110 days ago

  • perebags

    perebags says:

    Excellent article.

    110 days ago

  • jojosvintagecupboard

    jojosvintagecupboard says:

    Hey, you get what you pay for. Interesting article.

    110 days ago

  • grandmae1

    grandmae1 says:

    Wonderful! Idea for the book...look back at "peasant" clothes of yesteryear, and you will find cheaper fabrics and much simpler styles! Has the fashion industry turned us all into the lower classes? In the mid seventies my family and I were waiting in line to see the space museum in Florida when a woman in line asked what country we were from...Her reason? My daughter and I were wearing skirts and blouses instead of t-shirt and shorts!!! Now I just read a comment that said other countries are All wearing jeans and t-shirts. How sad! Ellen

    110 days ago

  • auntierobin

    auntierobin says:

    Excellent article! Very informative and I thoroughly enjoyed reading it. I love wearing jeans and t-shirts, but I also love unique and quirky looks. I love sewing and making something my own. It's fun to see someone wearing something that is uniquely them.

    110 days ago

  • grandmae1

    grandmae1 says:

    P.S NO I am not wealthy, far from it! I just try to look my best with fewer clothes.

    110 days ago

  • Sloanester

    Sloanester says: Featured

    Very true and thought provoking. You are motivating me to break out my tights and skirts. It's the time it takes to get dressed that always draws me to t shirts and jeans and outdoor time. I agree that vintage shops have made their mark so much because of the quality that you find in clothes of yesterday and people's appreciation of that.

    110 days ago

  • mazedasastoat

    mazedasastoat says:

    Whatever the product, large retailers only sell us what they decide to stock. Food, clothes, books, music... large retailers reduce choices in all these categories. The only way to be able to choose from a large variety of items is to browse multiple small retailers. In other words, do all your shopping with independent, small retailers... such as the ones here on Etsy! :-)

    110 days ago

  • erasistible

    erasistible says:

    I am short and 30 lbs. overweight but plus sizes are too big to fit me. Manufacturers used to make things with the slim and the overweight in mind. They would make say a top in the same fabric in two different styles that would flatter either. Now, everything looks like a bag. I wear petite sizes (5' 3" and under) because I am short. Things are so massed- produced that even my khaki work pants are now about 3 or 4 inches too long, because someone decided high heels were what we wanted to wear. Even if I wore high heels, I would not wear them with khaki work pants!

    110 days ago

  • RossLab

    RossLab says:

    I find it so true! Thanks for sharing.

    110 days ago

  • PinesVintageClothing

    PinesVintageClothing says:

    Well said! Great article! The classics are a style necessity and so is personality!

    110 days ago

  • littlegoatsoaps

    littlegoatsoaps says:

    I'd love to have a nice wardrobe! Not in the budget. :( And right now I'm a SAHM raising a 2 yr old little boy... finger paints don't mesh with Prada. ;-)

    110 days ago

  • ErinElsie

    ErinElsie says:

    Well done. This was the best article I've read in a long time. I worked for a large manufacturer here in NY and walked away from it a few months ago.

    110 days ago

  • someprintfolks

    someprintfolks says:

    Such an interesting topic of conversation. The reason I decided to go into the textiles industry is the because of the lack luster world of fashion in stores these days. I go shopping having an idea in my mind of what I want and then don't find it on the racks. It's a shame that we've lost the sense of presentation and uniqueness in our dress.

    110 days ago

  • julsandmaude

    julsandmaude says:

    Long live Etsy.com and the diversity there in!

    110 days ago

  • isewcute

    isewcute says:

    Interesting!

    110 days ago

  • jillatay

    jillatay says:

    Thanks for writing this, my thoughts exactly, especially since seeing the beauty of the clothing in the new Sherlock Holmes movie. We have become ugly, plain and simple. Peer pressure keeps people from moving back to a more beautiful wardrobe except in the big cities. It's not just clothes either it is everything. Sigh, I was born in an ugly time. Have to add, thank goodness for Etsy where new, weird and delightful still has a place not dictated by factories.

    110 days ago

  • lalucyann

    lalucyann says:

    Interesting article for sure. My daughter is a fan of Etsty also, and about a year ago she was fed up with the "shirt coming up and the pants going down" look, and found a seamtress here on etsy that sews to your measurements. She now goes to work everyday in shirtwaist dresses and is loving it. She says a day doesnt pass that someone doesnt comment on how pretty she looks and wants the info on her dresses. So its dresses for work, and jeans for play and she says she not ever going back.

    110 days ago

  • mrstn123

    mrstn123 says:

    I began sewing again because I could never find a dress that looked appropriate and flattered me anymore. I found that vintage patterns did both. Thanks to Etsy for providing us with lots of ways to make ourselves pretty again.

    110 days ago

  • ForeverFall

    ForeverFall says:

    LOVE this article! Love the history :)

    110 days ago

  • EmSewCrazy

    EmSewCrazy says:

    Thanks for the article!! Neat peek into history! It's encouraging to know that there is a place for those of us who sew! Now let's make something beautiful!

    110 days ago

  • PaintedHorse

    PaintedHorse says:

    What a great read, great point of view and thoughtful insight. Thank you for sharing this very interesting article. Yes, I love my denim and tees but I also love to dress up like a city gal, which really stands out in oh-so-casual Boulder, CO.

    110 days ago

  • BellaDeLucca

    BellaDeLucca says:

    Wonderful article! A must-read!

    110 days ago

  • Decaldecor

    Decaldecor says:

    This was an awesome read. I can always appreciate a good article and I love my JEANS!

    110 days ago

  • Bunderful

    Bunderful says:

    interesting

    110 days ago

  • phunkyphashions

    phunkyphashions says:

    Neat post! Thanks!

    110 days ago

  • EmilyWiserJewelry

    EmilyWiserJewelry says:

    i love my jeans and t-shirt. that's my choice.

    110 days ago

  • TheAlligatorFactory

    TheAlligatorFactory says:

    great article, makes us realize the true value of handmade items. love the pictures.

    110 days ago

  • cookiehats

    cookiehats says:

    interesting article.

    110 days ago

  • fieldstudy

    fieldstudy says:

    thanks for the article - it's very informative and i really appreciate the perspective! i'm looking forward to your book now. :)

    110 days ago

  • LoveButtons

    LoveButtons says:

    I must admit that I have gone for simplicity and comfort as I've got older, but I used to love wearing a mixture of handmade, vintage and high street clothing. Thanks for the article - food for thought! Maybe it's time to look for something different that reflects my personality more :)

    110 days ago

  • justthegoods

    justthegoods says:

    "It can be yours for a jaw-dropping $9.95, a price achieved both by its cheap materials (polyester and elastane) but also by its simple construction and lack of detail — it’s little more than a few yards of stretchy, forgiving fabric slapped together." Don't forget the barely better than slave wages at sweatshops in international free trade zones =-(

    110 days ago

  • KaiceJoy

    KaiceJoy says:

    Interesting read...gets my thoughts going...hhhhmmmmm

    110 days ago

  • MeganRD

    MeganRD says:

    Very interesting...it's hard to find new clothes that don't fall apart or wear out quickly

    110 days ago

  • CrazyBlueSpot

    CrazyBlueSpot says:

    I guess we "Etsians" have a responsibility to bring the quality back.

    110 days ago

  • connietownsart

    connietownsart says:

    Style never goes out of fashion.

    110 days ago

  • Zalavintage

    Zalavintage says:

    even though I love my jeans, crisp white cotton shirt and 4" heels for day to day, I love real clothing at night, let's bring fashion back! ... and the manufacturing jobs that go along with a Made in America label

    110 days ago

  • QuirkMuseum

    QuirkMuseum says:

    I like the idea of fashion and I love seeing women dressed in the latest styles, but under my fancy hat and overcoat it's jeans and a t-shirt.

    110 days ago

  • SomsStudio

    SomsStudio says:

    Its Jeans and T-shirt for me! :)

    109 days ago

  • PurestPets

    PurestPets says:

    Point made. Insightful article. Thank you so much!

    109 days ago

  • BanglewoodSupplies

    BanglewoodSupplies says:

    I love the history of it all! Thanks.

    109 days ago

  • Pickseeville

    Pickseeville says:

    At the tender age of 40 I am learning to embrace straightlegs jeans and tall boots...Jeans make you feel like you still rock!

    109 days ago

  • thewomensrepublic

    thewomensrepublic says:

    Great article and perspective. I think it is a little culture as well. It is that old saying which came first the chicken or the egg? In this case the pants or the jeans/ cheap production mindset of companies. Women's roles in our culture started to change and their clothing/aesthetic reflects this as we saw women start wearing pants and dress lines change. I blogged a little about pants and women. I do think however; how the article's thoughts on the way clothing today is mass produced cheaply and poorly constructed and company tactics fueling the mass aesthetic was on target (no pun intended:)).

    109 days ago

  • accentonvintage

    accentonvintage says:

    Wonderful blog!

    109 days ago

  • NicoleNicoletta2

    NicoleNicoletta2 says:

    great article

    107 days ago

  • ezliving

    ezliving says:

    Great ! Interesting!! Congratulation.

    107 days ago

  • ezliving

    ezliving says:

    Jean never go out of fahion!! Congratulation.

    107 days ago

  • sarahfburns

    sarahfburns says:

    I am sooo tired of t-shirt jersey fabric!!! It's everywhere! I"ve been getting inspired to make clothes and splurge by paying an amazing dress maker I know to custom make me some COMFORTABLE and well fitting custom clothes. Jeans and t-shirts are cool, but a little too oft seen these days. Get dressed America!!!

    106 days ago

  • anamt

    anamt says:

    Of course Etsy is about slow fashion. I like to wear things that someone made that they were so proud of . The jeans are harder to make than the T's. I want all fashion to be ECO Fashion. My Campaign "Changing How The World Shops . The 4 W's. Where was it made, out of What, by Whom & What were they paid ? Watch my video The Green ECO Show http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=emY3UpMARkk

    106 days ago

  • jkrusinski

    jkrusinski says:

    It is crazy how much fashion has evolved! I actually find it fascinating!!! I love dealing with vintage especially because I feel that all of my items have a story to tell and are definitely special because the are the REAL THING and not just some mock item trying to look vintage. Fashion is just beautiful!!!

    105 days ago

  • 1AEON

    1AEON from 1AEON says:

    The Spanish-American war is when it's started I believe, to keep undershirts on, and it became popular as t-shirts.

    105 days ago

  • ysaiy

    ysaiy says:

    seriously dope piece here. thanks for this epic reiteration of the truth!

    105 days ago

  • PurpleToedGypsy

    PurpleToedGypsy from PurpleToedGypsy says:

    yeah. each new generation is so proud of being "different." And you know, no matter how many ways each generation find to be different, there is still another way. T shirt cutting and repurposing clothing is a great way to encourage the individual to get personal with their own apparel!

    103 days ago

  • LeatherWorksWithYou

    LeatherWorksWithYou from LeatherWorksWithYou says:

    Interesting article. hcg

    103 days ago

  • floridascarf

    Sarah Geraci from floridascarf says:

    Pardon me if I'm repeating what anyone else has written (as I did not read all 138 comments) I will have to add that as we "modernize" everyone has gotten much busier. And when a woman has a busy schedule, the last thing she wants to do is spend too much time getting ready. Dressing more casually takes less effort and less time. Personally, I think dressing up is wonderful, but don't often do it. There is a certain chivalry to looking great in public. It's a courtesy extended to those that have to be around you. My solution to the issue is to pair killer accessories like shoes, scarves, necklaces, and hats to my simple pants and shirts. I believe it can have the effect we think fashion may be missing.

    102 days ago

  • LilyPocs

    Lily Pocs from LilyPocs says:

    so true! I wish dresses and skirts were considered more as casual items. I feel they're more comfortable anyways!

    97 days ago

  • LaFlamenca

    LaFlamenca says:

    I LOVE, live in and BREATHE vintage! I only own 1 pair of funky, flared jeans which I wear maybe once a year, if that. I'm a vintage devotee and have a vast collection I've amassed over the years. So much so, that I had to start selling it and had to open an on-line vintage store (Passion Fashion Vintage). You can find me on Facebook at: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Passion-Fashion-Vintage/119655528130209 I also have a FASHION PHOTO album in my private Facebook profile, which I'm hoping to turn into a book in a near future to inspire Americans to wear vintage which is UNIQUE, SOULFUL, GREEN (by wearing vintage I help recycle the fashions of the past), much better made, lasts a lot longer (some of my garments are 50 years old or even older and in a great shape). I'D RATHER BE DEAD THAN CAUGHT IN A PAIR OF JEANS AND T-SHIRT!!! Uniformity is NOT for me!!! Why would you wanna look like everyone else, when you can be unique??? Sadly, the current trend is a death of fashion & by buying these, cookie-cutter, uniform garments, you only put your money into Chinese manufacturer's pockets! No, thank you!

    4 days ago