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19" W x 11 1/2" H x 7/8" Thick
½Deep 1/2" Juice / Crumb Groove
About Mako Cutting Boards
All of our boards are handmade by me, with hand selected cuts of hardwood.
Each cutting board spends up to 8 hours in my hands, from start to finish.
You won't see many cutting board shapes ( other than square or round - yawn!) on the market or on Etsy because they are difficult and thus expensive to manufacture. I make these boards because I like to make them - there are few thing more satisfying to me than to take a rough-cut blank of hardwood and craft it into something really practical and durable
The boards that one might find in the stores or here on Etsy, made of plastic or bamboo cannot come close to the quality and longevity of a nice, handmade, hardwood cutting board. These boards can literally last a lifetime if cared for properly.
What makes Mako Cutting Boards a cut above:
Most average face grain cutting boards are held together with a basic "butt-joint", where flat edges are simply glued together. All of our face grain boards employ a "glue-joint" which renders that joint virtually inseparable and is aesthetically pleasing as well.
All of our boards include rubber feet fastened with stainless steel hardware, both for additional traction and to help prevent cross-contamination.
All of our large cutting boards feature a deep 1/2" juice/crumb groove, which is time consuming and tricky to cut reliably, which is why you don't see them on many other cutting boards on Etsy.
Types of Cutting Boards:
There are three primary types of wood cutting boards:
Face Grain - In these cutting boards the grain is "face up". They are also called "long grain" cutting boards. You see quite a bit of the character in the individual species of wood in these boards, and this type is very suitable for the average kicthen cutter. Most of our boards are face-grain because this type of cutting board allows much of the natural beauty og the board to show. They are not as common as edge grain boards because they have to be made from either a single large plank, which is both hard to find and expensive, or a few narrow planks which must be bound together. The binding of the boards is key here, as we use a glue-joint as opposed to a butt-joint in order to make the boards strong and long lasting.
Edge Grain - This is the most common type of cutting board. The planks of wood are cut into strips, turned on their "edge" and then glued together. They are usually a little thicker, and require more material to produce. These are suitable for both the average kitchen cutter and the advanced/restaurant cutter. Hardwood counter tops are made this way. As far as scratch resistance, there is little or no difference between edge grain and face grain cutting boards.
End Grain - These are considered the best cutting boards for the longevity of your knife edge, and are usually preferred by hard-core cutters. The wood is cut into equal sized squares, turned on its "end" and glued together in a grid. This construction allows us to take advantage of the natural self-healing properties of the wood, because the knife merely pushes the grain to each side, as opposed to cutting into it. These cutting boards are much more expensive both because they are more desirable, and that they are more costly to produce.
Care of Your Cutting Board:
Never put your cutting board in the dishwasher.
After you are done using your cutting board, wash with warm, lightly soapy water, and rinse thoroughly. Wipe or air dry.
To sanitize your board, you can use a mix of water and vinegar ( 1 part vinegar to 5 parts water ), and wash the board with it. Let it stand for a few minutes, then rinse and wipe or drip-dry. If you prefer one of the old-school methods, sprinkle a damp board with salt and then rub the whole surface with a lemon cut in half. Give the lemon a good squeeze over the board to get some of the juice going. This can be a little abrasive, so be careful with it. Let it stand for a few minutes. Rinse thoroughly and wipe or drip-dry.
Oil your board often with butcher block oil. We sell it on our site, and it is usually available locally. Rub it down generously and let it soak in for a few minutes. Wipe off the excess with a soft cloth or paper towel. You should re-oil your board a couple of weeks after you start using it, and then again once a month or so depending on how often you use it.
NOTE: NEVER use vegetable or olive oil ( or any other food-type oil), as they can go rancid and make your board unsafe to use. There are also some food safe sealants that you can use, such as beeswax, but we do not recommend them at all because we feel they inhibit the natural properties of wood that prevent bacteria.