Shop Sections
Shop Owner
-
Edgewood, WA,
United States - Contact
- Profile
- Favorites
- Circles: 184
- Feedback: 916, 100% pos.
Shop Info
- EdgewoodGardenStudio
- Opened on May 28, 2011
- Policies
- 1350 sales
- 1015 admirers
EdgewoodGardenStudioHandspun Yarn and Handpainted Roving |
|
EdgewoodGardenStudio's Shop Policies
Welcome
Welcome to Edgewood Garden Studio. I sell handspun yarn made from a variety of materials, handpainted silk scarves, and other items as the inspiration seizes me.
Each skein of yarn or handpainted scarf is a handmade, one-of-a-kind creation and as such may have small imperfections (consider them Wabi-Sabi) in dyeing or spinning. These are not machine-made items, and if I personally wouldn’t want to knit or weave with it or wear it, you won’t find it in my store. I endeavor to make the best possible product and hope that you enjoy the unique, personal touches I give to my work.
The descriptions given are accurate to the best of my knowledge and are based on the information from my suppliers of wool, silk, alpaca, etc. (Though I once raised sheep and angora rabbits, I am leaving that to others now.)
Please remember that computer monitor displays are varied and colors may appear differently on yours than on mine. I take my pictures with a Nikon D90 in natural light (with minimal flash), to ensure as close a match to real life as possible. Also, I try to give you a verbal description of the colors and hand.
If you see an item you'd like, but you want to wait to purchase, you may request that the item be reserved for you. I will mark it as reserved, and if it is a roving, it will be moved to the Reserved Rovings section. Reserved items not purchased within two weeks of reservation will be returned to general availability, unless other arrangements have been made. You may reserve up to ten items at a time.
Custom orders will also be marked as reserved.
If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to contact me. You can Convo me or email me directly at: store [!at] edgewoodgarden.com
You can also make a virtual visit to our garden at http://www.edgewoodgarden.com.
Payment
I only accept PayPal, but you do not need a PayPal account to use their services. You may pay with your debit/credit card without signing up for a PayPal account.
Please pay within 3 days of the sale or contact me within that timeframe for special arrangements. Otherwise, I shall cancel the sale and relist the item.
If you are a WA state resident, you will be charged 9.3% sales tax.
Shipping
I will try to ship the next day whenever possible. Shipping will be to the address listed through PayPal, please be sure that address is correct.
Shipments to the USA for items under 13 ounces will be made via USPS First Class. If heavier, your order will go out via Priority mail. All international orders will ship First Class Mail, to keep costs down, unless you request a faster method. I will combine items if you make multiple purchases.
Packages will not be insured unless you make a special request. Happy to do it, just contact me and I will send you a revised invoice. Though I will make every effort to be sure that your items get to you as quickly and safely as possible, we are not responsible for lost, damaged in shipping, or delayed items.
Any duties and customs for packages shipped internationally are your responsibility. International buyers, please add your phone number as a note to your order, as it is required for US customs declarations.
Refunds and Exchanges
If you are not pleased with your purchase for some reason, please let me know immediately. I want you to be happy with our transaction and hope that we can come up with an acceptable solution. If a refund is required, then I will refund you if the item is returned within 10 days of your receipt and if the item is in original condition. Shipping costs will not be refunded.
I hope it won’t ever happen, but if the wrong item was shipped to you, please return it within 10 days of receipt (unharmed and in “new” condition) and I shall cover the exchange shipping costs via PayPal.
Additional Policies and FAQs
Yarn Weights:
There are many different charts with yarn weights in relation to “wraps per inch”, “yards per pound”, and gauge. Alas, so much has to do with perception (how tight is a wrap?) and technique (how loosely do you knit?), etc. For consistency, this is the chart that I am using to give you yarn grist/size information:
Weight WPI YPP
cobweb 30+ 3500+
lace 24-30 2400-3500
fine fingering 20-24 2200-2400
fingering 16-20 1600-2200
fine sport 14-16 1400-1600
DK 12-14 1100-1400
worsted 9-12 850-1100
bulky 7-9 400-850
super bulky 6 or less 400 or less
Mainly, I rely on the number of yards (and I always round DOWN to the last increment of 5 when counting, e.g. 237 yds. becomes 235, 364 is listed as 360). Just to make it even MORE confusing, since we live in the Pacific NW and wool absorbs moisture from its environment, even the WEIGHT of the yarn may vary. But I hope this gives you some reference point for getting an idea of the yarn sizes.
Wool grading and softness:
Wool is graded on a numerical count, which is how finely a wool can physically be spun. It is also important to know the micron number, which is the diameter of the individual fiber. So, “soft” in count means a higher number, “soft” in microns means a lower number.
The “softness” of a wool is based on the diameter of the wool, ranging, more or less, from a “count” in the 80s (less than 17 microns) to a count in the 30s (40 microns). In sensitive people, wool “allergies” are generally caused by their skin being prickled and irritated by the cut ends of individual fibers that are larger than 30 microns. So THIRTY microns is the magic number for most people….and most sensitive people really need 21 or less microns not to be bothered. (This does not include people who have a systemic allergy to wool, which is quite rare.)
Most Merino wool is well above 30 microns, BFL is typically 24-28, most cross-breds and Shetlands are also above or just on the cusp of the magic 30 microns, the average for Corriedale is 25-32 which means some is finer and some is coarser. Falkland averages 27-30, while Romney is 30-32, so it is more likely to feel scratchy to sensitive persons. Most American-grown Alpaca (suri and huacaya) is generally in the 25-28 micron range, but can range from the finest of about 20 to the very coarsest of about 35.
Breed, bloodlines, and age can affect the micron number, so hence, there are wide ranges for wool. Short of getting a micrometer, breed specific characteristics are the easiest way to choose.
Making a wool Superwash can be done by applying a very thin molecular resin coating over the scales of the individual hairs of wool to keep them from tangling/felting, or by removal of the spurs on the scales (also a chemical process). There are some versions of this process which are more sustainable than others. Alas, most superwash is not marked as to which way it was processed. The superwash process makes the wool shinier and sometimes stiffer.
Skein sets:
Generally, I will not break up skein “sets.” If three skeins are for sale AND they are of the same wool, same colorway, and spun in a similar fashion, they are meant for someone who is making a larger project. It’s harder for me to spin “matched” skeins. Contact me if you want just one skein of a particular yarn, perhaps I can dye and spin something similar for you.
Washing wool garments:
Here is my preferred way to wash wool. At first glance, it is going to sound unconventional, but this is how I have washed fleeces (and yarn) for years---and it works wonderfully for garments, too. It gets stuff clean and won’t harm the wool. Remember: DO NOT AGITATE.
1. Put hot (yes, hot) water into a large sink. Squeeze a tiny dab of dish detergent (preferably Dawn) into the water. Do not agitate to sudsing.
2. GENTLY lay the garment in the hot water and gently press it down into the water. Do NOT AGITATE. In fact, once it is in, just don’t touch it. * Leave it for an hour or so or until the water is cooled.
3. Scoop the garment towards you and press gently against the front of the sink. Lift without stretching any parts of the garment. Drain the water.
4. To rinse: Fill sink with water about the same temperature as your drained washing water and GENTLY lay the garment in again. Leave it alone. DO NOT TOUCH IT. Did I mention that you shouldn’t agitate?
5. Repeat from * 2 more times. Add a little splash of white vinegar at the last (3rd) rinse.
6. Lay the garment flat on a thick towel, roll and press. Do NOT wring. (You can stand on it, just don’t twist).
7. Move it to a second towel if it is a big, heavy item. Roll and press. It will be almost dry to the touch. (Remember wool can absorb 20% of its weight in water and still feel warm and dry.)
8. Take a dry towel and lay garment out flat to dry.
Superwash is more resistant to felting and shrinking, but it, too, will benefit from this treatment. Your Superwash garment will be less likely to stretch and distort. After all, if you take the time to make a beautiful, one-of-a-kind handmade article, don’t you want to take the very best care of it?
Miscellaneous notes:
Please let me know if you are allergic to lavender.
Last Updated April 10, 2012