Storque articles by stringtheory

Earth Tones: Make Like a Tree, Part 2

2008-04-22T16:26:00-05:00

In her first post in our Earth Tones series, Autumn aka stringtheory revealed a troubling and often unrecognized issue in the modern crafting movement's efforts to be eco-friendly: mass-produced supplies. In this second post, she offers some solutions to the latent harm many of our craft supplies have on the environment. We have an opportunity to lead the way by innovating new methods of reusing and upcycling. One of our strengths is our community... we have a massive network of creative and eco-conscious people. Autumn dares to offer some utopian visions that we should make reality.

Indie crafters have become notable participants in the history of making things, but have a unique opportunity to pioneer social change as well. Since the Industrial Revolution, consumers have been diverted by the science of sales, and derive pleasure largely through conspicuous consumption. I feel that we modern makers seek to lift them out of the doldrums through individual acts of creativity. Yet, as materialism tips nature's balance, our noble pursuit of culture questions its own validity. There is increasing unrest amongst crafters who feel their creations only add to the clutter on this Earth, but what if we could actually save the world by making things?

Cradle to Cradle: Industry that Benefits Nature
I was awestruck when I saw this Ted Talk (a conference dedicated to innovation in Technology, Entertainment, Design) by William McDonough explaining Cradle to Cradle, a manufacturing standard that promises to "love all children of all species for all time." I had heard this term and "upcycling" thrown around, but never truly examined the concept. TeenAngster wrote a Stroque article explaining the background of C2C, and how it relates to crafters and makers. What amazes me most is that you don't need to read the book to be enlightened by the idea. Just take a look around you. Natural systems metabolize their nourishment to sustain themselves and their environment. Humans breath in oxygen that is exhaled as carbon dioxide, which is inhaled by trees and then exhaled as oxygen. Even the most violent explosions in the universe — supernovas — disperse vital elements needed to form new stars and solar systems. During the last one hundred years, humans have excelled at benefiting from nature with little reciprocal effort...all powered by burning the remains of extinct giant lizards and plants aka fossil fuels. Amid alarming changes in our climate, visible pollution, and wide spread health effects, few deny the importance of becoming eco-conscious.

A lot of perfectly useful raw materials get thrown in the trash every day. Reclaiming items after they have fulfilled their usefulness has never been a factor in design until now. The idea is for our customers put new intentions on belongings, and we can give them motivation to do so.The cradle to cradle philosophy indicates that all man-made materials should be circulated through one of two closed systems in a world without waste. It involves rethinking the way things are assembled, so they may be disassembled. Parts designated as "technical nutrients," replenish industry infinitely through upcycling or re-purposing, without degrading or emitting harmful toxins. Biological nutrients on the other hand, are derived from sustainable natural resources. They can be thrown on the ground, not only without concern, but to the benefit of the soil.

Amazing, but a pipe dream at best? On the contrary, some large corporations have been embracing the idea, applying it to their architecture, and creating products that fit within C2C certification standards. Ford recently built a prototype vehicle, the Model U, which not only runs on clean hydrogen fuel, but is designed with a basis of technical and biological nutrients. The U.S. Postal Service has taken rigorous steps to certify its Priority & Express mail packaging, and numerous other companies and communities are making bold changes to become "hyper green."

[photo by jhritz]

Upcycled Crafts: Industrial Nutrients 1.0
We know that most microbrands strive on aesthetic consistency. A lucky few have been able to create solid designs out of waste materials that are abundantly saved, such as old electronics. They are actually introducing the nutrient concept right under everyone's noses. DebbyAremDesigns has been successfully selling her circuit board creations in boutiques across the continent, including the museum shops at the Smithsonian Air and Space Museum and the Boston Computer Museum. It proves that consumers are beginning to place added value on creative reuse.

[clock by DebbyAremDesigns]

A New Buyer/Seller Cycle
It's important to expect green and humane practices from our suppliers, but in this scenario, exponentially more importance is placed on new ideas. There is unmatched resourcefulness within the indie craft movement, so here's an idea for you... Turning trash into treasure often involves scouring through what others have thrown "away." Sellers, why not create a direct relationship with consumers to promote participation in upcycling, and have materials we want essentially brought to us?

Certainly, it may take a little while to catch on, but we are in for a long-term incremental transition to non-toxic manufacturing and alternative fuels. While incubating these ideas, I realized that many of them involve little more effort than we invest now to promote our creations.

Here a sketch that should make sense for Etsy members:
The basic format involves sellers having a centralized list of materials they need. They should specify reasonable parameters, such as felt or corduroy instead of just fabric, whenever possible, or indicate other specifics. The list should always provide access to a profile of the artist and what they make. The idea is for our customers to put new intentions on belongings, and we can give them incentive to do so. Each maker would dictate their own system of coupons, give-aways, or other incentives, such as a reduced price if the buyer provides the raw materials. The more generous you are, the more materials you will get, and finding a happy balance may be an interesting challenge.

Local networks and events would be epicenters for this concept. Vanessa coined the possibility of creating a reverse Alchemy/Shop Local/Supplies section on Etsy to facilitate this. I would also love to see Teams introduce the idea of "craftcycle bins" in their communities through promotions and events. Add to that outreach programs for crafters outside the indie realm, and we could significantly reduce the consumption of commercial supplies.

[supplies bundled by whimsiedots]

This would open up an entirely new market for indie entrepreneurs as well. By utilizing the abundance of these resources, they could build vast inventories of refurbished, beautifully consistent supplies and kits. I've seen a handful of shops such as claudiascreations and whimsiedots with great examples of creatively reclaimed craft supplies.

Sellers could even offer to take back their creations to be refurbished, in return for a discount on something "new."

Through initiatives like these, we could begin to demonstrate a closed system that sustains itself on waste...technical nutrients in action! This concept is being realized from the top down by industry. What if we could create awareness from the bottom up, and meet them in the middle?

Petition the Retailers!
Of course, not all supplies could be sourced this way. Over at Crafting a Green World, we are taking suggestions for an Eco-Crafters List of Demands that will be part of a petition to get the attention of retailers. We want to make it clear to them that we have educated ourselves on environmental matters, and greenwashing will not be tolerated. I should also add that most independent eco-conscious suppliers make genuine efforts at progress towards C2C standards. With all the money we are saving from upcycling, we should be able to patronize them even more.

Eco-Exhibit
I'd also like to propose a craft exhibit that brings awareness to biological nutrients. Artists could contribute signature wares created entirely from non-toxic biodegradable materials, with blue ribbons going to those that make an effort for their item not only to be safe for the ground, but additionally benefit the Earth. For instance, by incorporating seeds or natural plant foods into biodegradable items. Research and outreach will be required to help crafters pinpoint proper materials. Items would be displayed and photographed for a short time, then ceremoniously thrown into a contained garden. The process of disintegration should be documented, taking pictures when any plants bloom that were a part of the wares.

On a final note...
I am continually amazed by what people in this community are making, no matter what their products are made of. My hope is that the information and ideas presented here will only expand our opportunities for creativity and profitability while bringing awareness to more harmonious manufacturing methods. Handmade has its charm, but more importantly, we are striving for a culture abundant with individual expression, respect for our planet...and each other.

Further Resources:
TED Talk: Janine Benyus - 12 Sustainable Designs Ideas from Nature

The Sustainable Textile Standard

InHabitat.com/2007/11/22/cohda-recycling-factory-at-dott-07/

Climatex Lifecycle Fabrics

www.mbdc.com

SustainableStyle.org

I.D.'s Umbrella Inside Out Competition

EGCG | Trashion | EcoEtsy | Environmentally Friendly Gift Guides | Earth Tones Series

Earth Tones: Make Like a Tree, Part 1

2008-04-21T13:23:00-05:00

Autumn Wiggins aka stringtheory is head writer for CraftingAGreenWorld.com, and founder of the Strange Folk Festival. If you pull her leg just slightly, she will build a website for your noble crafty cause. Recent projects include EtsyLou.org and CraftCon.org. We recently saw Autumn's talk on sustainability in crafting at the Craft Congress and we invited her to write a two-part Storque article for our Earth Tones series.

There is general consensus within the DIY community that what we do has a uniquely positive effect on the world. Our universal philosophy suggests that embracing methods to handmake your own belongings is fulfilling and thought provoking. Yet, quiet debate continues as to the long-term advantages of buying handmade. Is it a truly effective way to bypass corporate interests and consumerism? Ironically, the modern craft movement relies on technology only made possible by mass production. Not necessarily the crafts themselves, but at very least, the internet, thus computers, have been essential for popularizing our community, small business growth, and inspiration. Broad claims of environmental friendliness must be examined. And what is at the heart of many of our creations? Commercially manufactured supplies. After all, spindles of thread and jewelry findings don't grow on trees... and paper is made from trees.

To gain a clearer perspective of how we obtain supplies, I ran an anonymous survey which was linked through Etsy and various indie event mailing lists. One hundred crafters from across the U.S. and Canada responded.

Of those surveyed:

77% sell their items.
68% spend $50 or more a month on supplies.
33% shop at thrift/consignment stores often, 42% rarely or never get supplies there.

When asked: "How would you describe your knowledge of how commercial craft supplies are produced?"

28% have "never really thought about it."
48% are "curious, but tend to look the other way due to lack of alternatives and budget restraints."

When asked: "Would you be willing to pay more for commercial supplies that are guaranteed to be ethically created with earth friendly materials?"

Only 8% answered they would not pay more since they use only free and inexpensive reclaimed materials.
88% are willing to pay a reasonable amount more for eco-friendly supplies.
Only 16% answered "I already do! Supplies that I use offer a wide variety of options for eco-conscious crafters."

Let me just say that I am one of those 48% that has, until recently, swept my reservations about retail supplies under the latch hook rug. I live in the suburbs, where second-hand stores dwindle in numbers, and decent selection is limited mostly to children's clothing. Even though upcycling is widely promoted on Etsy, it doesn't seem to be put into practice as much as it should.

Thrifting and salvaging are a hobby for some and a headache for others. Often, crafters are faced with the day-to-day reality that upcycling is an inconsistent, and inefficient way to gather materials for microbrands that desire to have solid designs with consistent aesthetics. In many cases of upcycling, additional materials are needed to finish whatever our imagination is compelling us to create. The bottom line is that 92% of crafters surveyed admit they use commercial craft supplies to some extent, and 75% aren't completely aware of their environmental footprint. The intentions of crafters are good and the act of crafting is positive, but if we don't keep challenging ourselves to be more green, we run the risk of slipping into complacency. We cannot assume that handmade = environmentally friendly.

["Bummer" by drexel]

Crafters and makers have rerouted the act of assembly from factories to the individual's home or studio. But many of us remain blissfully unaware of the origins of our raw materials. On May 13th, The US Consumer Product Safety Commission will be holding a free round table discussion on the use of lead in "paints and coatings, toys, plastics, jewelry, electronics, batteries and textiles, etc" in Bethesda, Maryland. I just have one question, "Is it in my craft supplies"? According to Consumer's Union, "Consumer Reports notes that there is no federal standard for lead in plastics, but the amount of lead detected in the glue stick caps was more than three times the 600 parts per million allowable for paint in the U.S. Consumers who own any of those items are advised to remove them from use."

If you are concerned about lead contamination in your crafts, there are numerous testing kits now available for home use. Of course, these will not take measure of other heavy metals and carcinogens commonly found in consumer products. (Read more about California's lead law here).

Our rapidly growing sub-culture is spending large chunks of cash at retail stores that barely cater to our interests, contribute little to our community projects, and carelessly market unsafe products. As a writer for Crafting a Green World, I am always on the lookout for earth conscious suppliers, but few options exist in many categories. For most of us, craft stores offer little to no innovation of their merchandise, and aren't held accountable for pollution.

And to make matters worse, many businesses have blindly jumped on the green bandwagon. We have every reason to be suspicious of new products that appear eco-friendly, especially from large corporations. Greenwashing is already a rampant practice which misleads consumers with trendy "green" imagery and wordplay. The irony of this situation is that they sell things so the community can make stuff, yet you would never dream of stocking their shelves with things that were made in the community.

It's easy to forget that our enormous environmental problems have been inherited. Current solutions are largely a matter of personal responsibility, and constitute options that are thus far misleading, inefficient, and/or expensive. Why am I suddenly guilt stricken when I forget to bring my reusable bags to the store? Whose idea was it to make disposable bags out of toxic polymers in the first place? They are simply a product immature design. The current focus of conserving fossil fuels and misconceptions about recycling serve to prolong our complacency. Alternative energy sources and organically grown crops are a beacon for nursing the planet back to health. When we make conscious purchases, it decreases our ecological footprint, but what if we have been walking in the wrong direction all along?

We don't have enough space in this article to go into all the facts, so here are some links to information related to the business practices and manufacturing methods of big-name retail craft outlets:

DIY Guide to Drawing Your Own Conclusions about the Craft Supply Industry:

      Leading National Retailers:
      clnonline.com/newsbriefs.html
      investing.businessweek.com/research/stocks/snapshot/snapshot.asp?symbol=JAS
      americanuniversities.suite101.com/article.cfm/billionaire_supports_doomed_school
      www.hobbylobby.com/customs/General%20Information.pdf
      www.thepetitionsite.com/takeaction/149976417

      Helpful Wikipedia Entries:
      Hobby_Lobby
      Michaels
      Private_equity_firm
      en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bain_Capital
      en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackstone_Group

      Materials Manufacturing:
      www.panna.org/files/conventionalCotton.dv.html
      www.madehow.com/Volume-7/Felt.html
      www.alibaba.com/manufacturers/32899/Other_Garment_Accessories.html
      www.checnet.org/healthehouse/education/articles-detail.asp?Main_ID=375
      news.mongabay.com/2007/0822-wsj.html
      www.motherjones.com/news/feature/2008/01/the-last-empire.html
      www.checnet.org/healthehouse/education/articles-detail.asp?Main_ID=187
      www.encyclopedia.com/doc/1G1-8562919.html
      www.autexrj.org/No1/old1_2.pdf
      extras.sltrib.com/china/
      www.bellaonline.com/articles/art33912.asp
      www.lenntech.com/Polyvinyl-Chloride-PVC.htm
      www.cwac.net/paper_industry/
      www.ota.com/organic/environment/cotton_environment.html
      www.sixwise.com/newsletters/05/12/21/the_6+_synthetic_fabrics_you_most_want_to_avoid_and_why.htm
      walmartwatch.com/blog/archives/textile_industry_takes_a_toll_on_the_environment_in_china/
      www.ecologycenter.org/factsheets/plastichealtheffects.html

      Recalls and Lead/Chemical Contamination:
      www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml05/05127.html
      www.ecocenter.org/press/releases/20071205.php
      www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml08/08091.html
      www.hobbylobby.com/recall/home.cfm?page=0&menu=0
      www.hudsonhubtimes.com/news/article/3218231
      oeconline.org/press_releases/2007/pollutioninpeople

      Related EPA Studies:
      www.epa.gov/ttn/atw/area/clayceramics_fs092007.pdf
      www.epa.gov/epaoswer/other/mining/minedock/damage/damage.pdf

As a community coming to terms with dire consequences, what steps can we take to provide not just immediate, but long term solutions? I believe the creativity and enthusiasm within the modern craft movement can be a vehicle to demonstrate how the world can eliminate pollution and waste once and for all... Stay tuned for tomorrow's "Make Like a Tree: Part 2."

EGCG | Trashion | EcoEtsy | Environmentally Friendly Gift Guides | Earth Tones Series