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How-Tuesday: Stuffing Recipe From The New Thanksgiving Table

2009-11-24T16:00:00-05:00

When it comes to the Thanksgiving feast, I reserve most of my plate for the stuffing. Savory, moist, and hearty, the irresistible mixture is my primary motivation for stumbling across the Turkey Trot's finish line.

Families tend to adhere to traditional Thanksgiving recipes for generations and generations, but I love the idea of incorporating regional flavors and techniques to truly reflect contemporary Americana. Diane Morgan's The New Thanksgiving Table introduces tapenades, ginger brines, and enchiladas to the standard fare. For this week's How-Tuesday, she shares her recipe for Linguiça Sausage Stuffing With Mushrooms and Caramelized Onions — my salivary glands have officially kicked into overdrive.

Purchase The New Thanksgiving Table from Amazon or an independent bookseller

Thanksgiving is the one day of the year when nine out of ten Americans sit down to a home-cooked meal, and that meal, according to one survey, almost always features turkey. Depending on where you live, however, that turkey is roasted, smoked, grilled, deep-fried, or turned into the elaborate Cajun specialty known as "turducken," in which a boned chicken is stuffed inside a boned duckling, which in turn is stuffed inside a boned turkey, along with stuffing, to boot! There are also regional preferences in seasonings: sage and garlic are perennial favorites in some parts of the country, while rosemary, paprika, and cloves seem to rule in the South.

The New Thanksgiving Table commemorates this quintessential American holiday with a spotlight on the regional specialties that make this vast land of ours so gastronomically amazing. While the classic Thanksgiving meal includes turkey, cranberries, pumpkins, and root vegetables, those same ingredients have been reinterpreted in myriad ways that reflect the diversity and breadth of twenty-first-century America.

Traditional cranberry compote, for example, may have Yankee roots, but it has metamorphosed into a cranberry salsa with onions and chiles in the Southwest. Or, the classic savory bread or rice dressings used to stuff turkey in the Northeast is often replaced with versions featuring crunchy, ebony-colored wild rice farther west in Minnesota, taking advantage of the native grain — actually a grass — of the region. In the Heartland, late-harvest corn is made into a pudding to accompany the holiday bird, whereas corn bread dressing and sweet potato spoon bread are served in the South. Along the Chesapeake Bay, a crab appetizer often starts the Thanksgiving feast, while along the Gulf Coast, pickled shrimp or oysters on the half shell whet the palate in anticipation of the holiday meal.

Here's wishing you a bountiful and peace-filled Thanksgiving — with a regional twist, of course!

Our culturally diverse nation may have strong Yankee roots that defined much of what we know as the traditional Thanksgiving meal, but recognizing and incorporating other wonderful ethnic foods into our harvest feast speaks to the spirit of the holiday. I couldn't resist using Portuguese linguiça sausage in this stuffing. The smoky, zesty sausage is a great match for roast or grill roasted turkey. Ask your local butcher or specialty-foods shop about availability, or order online from www.gasparssausage.com, a fourth-generation family-owned business.

Serves 12

5 tablespoons unsalted butter at room temperature
10 cups unseasoned dried bread cubes
1 tablespoon olive oil
3/4 pound linguiça sausages
1 pound cremini mushrooms, wiped or brushed clean, stems trimmed, and quartered
1 bag (14 ounces) frozen pearl onions, thawed and blotted dry with paper towels
1 tablespoon sugar
2 large carrots, peeled and chopped
2 large ribs celery, chopped
1/2 cup minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
1 tablespoon minced fresh sage
1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
Freshly ground pepper
3 large eggs, lightly beaten
4 cups homemade chicken stock or canned low-sodium chicken broth

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Coat a deep, 9-by-13-inch baking pan with 1 tablespoon of the butter.

Place the bread cubes in a very large bowl. In 10-inch sauté pan, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat and swirl to coat the pan. Add the sausages and cook, turning as needed, until nicely browned on all sides. Transfer to a plate and let cool. Drain all but 3 tablespoons of fat from the pan. Add the mushrooms to the pan and sauté, stirring frequently, until lightly browned, about 4 minutes. Add to the bowl with the bread cubes.

Return the pan to medium-high heat and add 2 tablespoons of the butter. Add the onions to the pan and sauté, stirring frequently, for about 3 minutes until soft and lightly browned. Sprinkle the sugar over the onions and sauté, stirring constantly, for 3 to 5 minutes until the onions turn golden and the edges caramelize. Add to the bowl with the bread and mushrooms.

Add the remaining 2 tablespoons butter to the pan. Swirl to coat the pan and add the carrots and celery. Sauté, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are soft and lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add the parsley, thyme, sage, salt, and a few grinds of pepper and sauté for 1 minute longer. Add the vegetable-herb mixture to the bowl and stir to combine.

Cut the sausages into 1/4-inch rounds and add to the stuffing. Add the eggs and stock and mix well. Scoop the stuffing into the prepared pan and bake, uncovered, for about 1 hour until the top is lightly browned and crusty.

If you have room in your oven, bake the stuffing while the turkey is roasting. Otherwise, bake it beforehand and reheat it once the turkey is out.

Do ahead: The bread cubes can be prepared up to 3 days in advance. Store in an airtight container at room temperature. The sausages can be browned up to 1 day in advance; let cool, place in a covered container, and refrigerate. The mushrooms, onions, and vegetables can be sautéed along with the herbs up to 1 day in advance. Let the mixture cool completely and refrigerate in a covered container. Remove the sausages and vegetables from the refrigerator 2 hours before assembling the stuffing.

Thanks to Diane Morgan and the good folks at Chronicle Books for sharing this recipe with us. For more mouth-watering Thanksgiving recipes, check out The New Thanksgiving Table.

More How-Tuesday Posts | Plants and Edibles Category | The Home Chef Gift Guide

How-Tuesday: Rolling Balls From Magic Books & Paper Toys

2009-11-17T14:14:00-05:00

As a lover of both books and crafts, I have a very difficult time letting my coffee table volumes or National Geographic issues sit on the shelf for long before I'm ripping, cutting, folding, and gluing. Pages sticky with mod podge, my collection of paper transforms into a vault of materials and inspiration. Paper guru Esther K. Smith will be hosting Craft Night at the Etsy Labs next Monday, November 23. As a teaser, she shares her Rolling Balls project from Magic Books & Paper Toys for this week's How-Tuesday. This would make a great project (with or without the kids!) as you get ready to decorate for the holidays.

Purchase Magic Books & Paper Toys

Long before I ever thought of making books, I got a hexaflexagon in the mail from Dikko. Other men send flowers, jewelry, or chocolate, but he wooed me with paper. (It worked — we've been collaborating on art and our family for many years now.)

He had read about them in Martin Gardiner's math column in Scientific American and made one for a grad-school course at the University of Wisconsin. The flexagon was cool. I made them for a while — sent one to my mathematician cousin (he was not impressed) — and then forgot about them. Years later, teaching a class at Cooper Union called Instant Artist's Books, I found that hexaflexagon again and decided to include flexagons in my class. Then I got a photocopy of a page from a Victorian children's book that showed magic wallet construction. Those two forms were so easy and interesting that I built a curriculum around them. I developed my Magic Books & Paper Toys weekend workshop, which started at New York's Center for Book Arts. I've taught it at Long Island University, The San Francisco Center for the Book, and Penland School of Crafts.

When I began teaching design for CUNY, I used flexagons with my CUNY undergrads for design and color-theory problem solving. Since their designs split and reverse, they make an interesting design challenge. They also keep me amused.

I added flip books, strip animations, and spinners with wonderful results. One student rendered a paint can that sprays graffiti, another made a subway car with cut-out windows that show the stations changing.

I've seen flip books of fingernails growing, T-shirts changing designs, and all kinds of winking, blinking spinners. I wish I could see the cool things YOU make!

I've seen these made from holiday cards as ornaments, but they are also interesting books. And it's fun to roll them. You could even put a simple pop-up inside.

You Will Need
Heavy, foldable paper
Compass or round object (glass, bowl) to trace
Pencil
Scissors
Bone folder
Adhesive
Drawing and collage materials to embellish
Velco, magnets (optional)

1. Trace circles onto the paper using a compass, or trace a jar or small bowl. The heavier the paper, the fewer circles.

2. Cut the circles out with scissors or a knife.

3. Fold them in half and burnish.

4. Adhere the folded circles back to back, lining them up with care and burnishing until you have enough to create a full ball shape when you open up the ball.

5. Place Velcro or magnets on the covers so that the ball can stay open.

6. Roll your book to be sure it works.

7. Embellish with drawing, rubber stamps, or collage.

Rolling Faces: You can put whatever appeals to you on the pages of your rolling book. Faces can be fun. One student thought faces of politicians would be nice rolling away. Cut them from magazines or newspapers and collage.

Thanks to Esther K. Smith and the good folks at Potter Craft for sharing this project with us. For more paper inspiration, check out Magic Books & Paper Toys.

More How-Tuesday Posts | Supplies Category | DIY Made Simple Gift Guide

How-Tuesday: Miniature Stocking Ornament From Sweater Renewal

2009-11-10T14:30:00-05:00

As the season of bulky fibers descends upon us, I inevitably must clean out my sweater drawer for new finds. Pulling out fistfuls of thick wool, I mourn moth holes, shrunken sleeves, oil stains. The colorful knits, even flawed, nevertheless feel enduring, and thus when I came across Sharon Franco Rothschild's Sweater Renewal, I was already inspired. For this week's How-Tuesday, Sharon shares her wool felting technique, along with a template to make a cozy upcycled Christmas ornament. You could even enlarge the template to make a full-size Christmas stocking.

Purchase Sweater Renewal from Amazon or an independent bookseller

I am, always will be, a self-confessed sweater junkie. Whether I am designing, knitting, buying, felting, cutting, or wearing sweaters, I can never get enough of them. Sweaters provide comfort, warmth, and a certain sense of style.

We all have our favorites — some that make us feel fabulously stylish, some that make us feel incredibly comfortable, and those that offer a coziness and warmth that no other piece of clothing can compete with. As we collect and add sweaters to our wardrobes year after year, memories also attach themselves to each piece.

I will forever remember one of my all-time favorite sweaters, and its quick demise. I was sixteen years old, and the sweater (I can remember it like it was yesterday) was a pink mohair cardigan, the exact color of cotton candy. When I wore this sweater, I felt transformed. I felt grown up, stylish, even beautiful. But one of my father's first attempts to do the laundry for our family ended in disaster for this cherished piece of clothing. After some washing-machine agitation (in hot water, no less), my beautiful sweater shrank down to one-third its original size and was suddenly and completely unwearable. But my love affair with this sweater was not yet over. I kept it in my top dresser drawer, and every time I opened that drawer, I would look at my pink sweater and remember instantly how good it had made me feel. It was years before I could actually part with it. How I wish now that I had made something else out of it, something that I could have continued to use in my daily life, to remind me of my dad and the wonderful feeling that sweater had given me.

Fortunately, I have discovered that damaged sweaters, old sweaters, out-of-style sweaters, and sweaters that once belonged to a loved one can have a second life. So clean out your closets, start your washing machines, sharpen your scissors, and get ready to redesign, recycle, and renew your wool sweaters.

Miniature Stocking Ornament

It's never too soon to start thinking about the holidays. These tree ornaments are just waiting to be stuffed with tiny treasures and placed on your tree or above your fireplace. The stocking is made from a brightly colored mohair sweater.

Finished Measurements
3" (7.5cm) x 5 1/2" (14cm)

Materials
Yellow-green sweater made of mostly feltable fibers, at least 8 3/4" x 16 1/2" (22cm x 42cm)
Stocking template (download here) and tracing paper
Sewing needle and yellow thread
1 skein each Rowan Classic Cashsoft 4-ply yarn, 57% extra fine merino, 33% microfibre, 10% cashmere, 1.75 oz (50g), 197 yd (180m), in light brown and dark green, plus fuchsia for crochet flower (optional)
Crocheted fuschia five-petal flower (optional)
Four 10mm nugget beads, 3 amber, and 1 translucent white (2 amber beads and the white one are optional)
Small box of straight pins
DMC embroidery needle #5
Beadalon big eye beading needle 2 1/4" (5.5cm)
Tapestry needle
Size G-6 (4mm) crochet hook (optional)

Techniques
Washing and felting
Embroidery: Blanket stitch, running stitch
Crochet (optional): Silp stitch, chain stitch, single crochet, double crochet

Felt the Sweater

There are three methods for felting sweaters: in your washing machine, by hand in your sink or tub, or at your local dry cleaner. The washing-machine method is the easiest and fastest way to felt, especially if you are washing a whole sweater or blanket. If you are doing a small piece, such as a sock, hat, or a cut piece of a sweater, you may find the hand-washing method easier. If you do not want to deal with the actual washing and felting yourself, your local dry cleaner is a good alternative.

Washing-Machine Felting
1. There are two types of washing machines — top loaders and front loaders. Top loaders open at the top of the machine, and you put your clothes in a basket-like container that has a cylinder in the middle. Top loaders work best for sweater felting for two reasons. The first is that you can open the top at any time during the wash cycle and check your felting. The second is that the cylinder in the middle provides a lot of agitation, so your sweater will felt very quickly, often in one cycle.

Front loaders have a door that opens in the front of the machine, and they provide a much larger, more open space than a top loader. Once the wash cycle begins, the door automatically locks and cannot be opened until the cycle is finished. Because there is no spin basket in the front loader, there is less agitation. So with front loaders, I suggest that you begin any felting project using a very short cycle (hand-wash is best) and know that you may need to go through a few cycles before your sweater will felt the way you want it to.

How to Felt Using the Washing Machine

Place your item in a pillowcase. This will protect your piece and provide more friction (which is a good thing).
Select a very short cycle to begin. The hand-wash cycle is always a safe bet.
Set the water temperature to Warm.
Add about 1/4 cup (60ml) of Ivory liquid soap, or any dishwashing liquid with a low pH balance.
Select the shortest spin cycle and the gentlest wash cycle. Spinning the item for too long can distort the shape of the piece, but it needs to spin a little so all the water comes out.
Place the pillowcase with your item inside in the washing machine. Start your washing machine. Do not felt more than one piece at a time. After each cycle, take your piece out of the pillowcase and check to see if you need to wash it again.
When you have achieved the desired results, put your item in the dryer (still in the pillowcase). Run the dryer on a very low- or no-heat setting until the item is dry.

Make the Stocking

2. Trace and cut out the Stocking template (download here), enlarged at 200%. Pin the template onto the felted sweater and cut it out.

3. Pin right sides together. Machine-stitch around the sides of the stocking, using a 1/2" (13mm) seam allowance. Leave the top edge of the stocking open. Turn the stocking right-side out.

4. Turn under 1" (2.5cm) at the top of the stocking. Using light-brown yarn, the tapestry needle, and running stitch, stitch around the stocking to secure the top hem.

5. Blanket stitch around the machine-stitched edges of the stocking, using light-brown yarn and the tapestry needle.

Appliqué & Embroider

6. If desired, you may crochet a five-petal fuchsia flower.

Chain 4, leaving a tail 3" to 4" (7.5 - 10cm) long. Join with a slip stitch to form the loop. (Chain 3, single crochet 1 into the loop) 4 times. Chain 3. Using a slip stitch, join to the base of the first chain 3. You now have five petals. Fasten off, leaving a tail 3" to 4" (7.5 - 10cm) long.

Pin the crocheted flower in place on the front of the stocking. WIth the beading needle, sew an amber nugget bead in the center of the flower, simultaneously sewing the flower to the stocking front. Be careful not to sew the front of the stocking to the back while doing this. If you do not wish to use the crocheted flower, simply sew the amber bead to the front of the stocking at the same point where it would be if the flower were there.

Crochet Loop (Optional)

7. This loop will attach to the bead center of the flower, closing the stocking. Using dark-green yarn, join the yarn to the top center back of the stocking with a slip stitch. Chain 32, slip stitch into the 22nd chain to form the loop, work a single crochet in each chain from that point back to the edge of the stocking. Tie off the yarn and weave the end under the hem of the stocking.

Crochet Strap (Optional)

8. Using two strands of light-brown yarn held together, leave a 3 1/2" to 4" (9-10cm) tail and tie an overhand knot with the two strands used as one. Attach yarn to the upper left corner of stocking (on the heel side). Crochet a 7" (18cm) chain. Chain 10 beyond the 7" (18cm) point. Form these 10 chains into a loop and slip stitch to the end of the 7" (18cm) chained strap. Sew an amber nugget bead onto the upper right corner of the stocking (on the toe side). The chained strap will come over the stocking and attach to this bead by the loop. At the end of the strand of yarn you left as a tail at the beginning of the strap, tie an amber bead. Tie the white translucent bead at the end of the other yarn tail.

Thanks to Sharon Franco Rothschild and the good folks at Potter Craft for sharing this project with us. For more upcycling inspiration, check out Sweater Renewal.

More How-Tuesday Posts | Supplies Category | DIY Made Simple Gift Guide

How-Tuesday: Rose Petal Tee From Appliqué Your Way

2009-11-03T16:07:00-05:00

Picking through the scrap bins at fabric stores is my cherished scavenging adventure for texture and pattern. In every nook of my craft storage, strips of vibrant textiles bloom forth. When I find projects made for these sweet trims, I'm not only reinventing a T-shirt or a tote bag, I'm also creating something completely new out of my neglected bouquet of materials. Kayte Terry, who has shared many a resourceful embellishing how-to on The Storque, has come out with a new book, Appliqué Your Way. These projects will inspire you to root your way through not just your own pile of discarded cloth, but your neighbor's as well.

Purchase Appliqué Your Way from Amazon or an independent bookseller.

I came to appliqué through my love of fabric and patterns. I adore the contrast of rich velvet on linen or a sweet Liberty print mixed with tweed. My heart goes all aflutter when I score a stack of feed-sack fabrics on eBay or unearth a set of vintage Marimekko curtains at a flea market. Doing appliqué is a way for me to highlight these special fabrics in my work and to play with textures and colors.

The beauty of appliqué is that you can use small amounts of gorgeous fabric to make a statement. It's a great way to use scraps from your other sewing projects or to put old clothing or linens to new use. You can transform everyday clothing and household items into one-of-a-kind works of art with the addition of some simple appliqué. There's really nothing more satisfying than answering the question "Where did you get that?" with "I made it myself!"

While I love the comfort of a T-shirt, sometimes a basic tee just won't cut it. Romantic rose blooms and leaves, also made from T-shirts, gracefully trail down the neckline of this tee. A monochromatic palette makes this tee super sophisticated. Hit up your local thrift store for extra-large men's tees (they give you more fabric to work with) in different shades of one color.

Materials
Boatneck T-shirt
3 T-shirts in assorted shades complementary to the boatneck tee
Quilting ruler
Self-healing cutting mat
Rotary cutter
Pencil
Card stock
Tailor's chalk
Fabric scissors
Sewing machine and thread in complementary colors
Needle and thread in colors to match T-shirts
Straight pins

Make the Flowers and Leaves

1. Use a quilting ruler and work on a cutting mat using a rotary cutter to cut from the assorted T-shirts the following strips of fabric:
One 6" x 24"/15cm x 60cm
Five 3" x 14"/8cm x 36cm
Three 2" x 9"/5cm x 23cm
Note: You may have to sew a couple of strips together to get a 24"/60cm strip.

2. Trace about a dozen leaves onto the assorted T-shirts. Cut with fabric scissors. Mark simple leaf veins on the leaves with tailor's chalk.

3. Set your sewing machine to a straight stitch and sew veins on the leaves, backstitching at the beginning and end.

4. To make the flowers,
a. Thread a needle with a thread color that matches the T-shirt strip. Knot the thread end and set aside.
b. Fold a T-shirt strip in half lengthwise. Holding each end of the strip with your hands, with the folded edge at the top, fold the upper left corner down so that the raw side edge of the strip meets the bottom edge of the strip, forming a 45-degree angle. (See figure 1.)

c. Start rolling the first few inches of the left side of the strip to make the center of the rose. (See figure 2.) Sew through the bottom edges of the flower center to secure.

d. Fold the strip at a 45-degree angle next to the flower center and roll flower center onto the fold. (See figure 3.) Sew bottom edge to secure. Repeat folding the strip, rolling the flower onto fold, and stitching to secure, until there's no fabric left.

e. Tuck the final end of strip under the flower and sew to secure.
f. Repeat all the steps to form flowers from each T-shirt strip.

Assemble the T-Shirt

1. Lay the boatneck T-shirt out on a flat, clean surface. With the T-shirt facing you, pin the largest rose just slightly left of the center of the shirt. Pin two leaves below the rose. With a needle and thread, hand-stitch to the shirt to secure. Remove the pins.
2. Cluster four roses to the left of the large rose and accent with leaves as desired. Pin, hand-stitch to secure, and remove the pins.
3. Pin clusters of leaves trailing up the neckline of the T-shirt to cover the rest of the left side of the neckline. Hand-stitch to secure, then remove the pins.
4. Cluster four roses to the right of the T-shirt in a different formation than the one on the left and accent with leaves as desired. Pin, hand-stitch to secure, and remove the pins.
5. Pin clusters of leaves trailing up the neckline of the T-shirt to cover the rest of the right side of the neckline. Hand-stitch to secure, and then remove the pins.

Thanks to Kayte Terry and the good folks at Chronicle Books for sharing this project with us. For more modern embellishments, check out Appliqué Your Way.

More How-Tuesday Posts | Supplies Category | DIY Made Simple Gift Guide

How-Tuesday: Button-Down Shirt From Design-It-Yourself Clothes

2009-10-13T15:20:00-05:00

Trying on clothes in fitting rooms tends to be a less than inspiring experience. Puckering, pulling, shifting, and stretching — the garment quickly becomes an obstacle in itself. Cal Patch's book, Design-It-Yourself Clothes, is built on an inherently sensible premise: perfect fit comes from custom patterns. Cal's approach that every sewer deserves to empower herself through learning the craft of patternmaking, is both encouraging and liberating. Each project in this foundational manual builds upon the previous one, so a basic shirt turns into a jacket turns into a dress.

For this week's How-Tuesday, we're sharing the button-down shirt; I hope the skills you learn in creating this pattern will equip you for exploring the next frontier in your designs. Since this project is rich with information, I've included an excerpt below, but you can download the full how-to (for free!) as a PDF here.

Purchase Design-It-Yourself Clothes

Picture this: You're out shopping, maybe at your favorite vintage shop, maybe at a fancy designer boutique, and you see something familiar. Hmm. Where have you seen that dress before, you wonder. In a magazine? A movie? Oh wait, you remember! You've seen it in your dreams!

You try it on, and for a moment, you are enraptured: Life is complete! You will forevermore be the one envied at every party for what you are wearing. But then you do a reality check. The color, now that you are thinking clearly, doesn't suit you at all. The fabric is a little more synthetic than you'd like. The waist is actually too small, and wouldn't it be way dreamier with a wider, kimono-esque sleeve? And a different neckline? Not to mention longer, with more flare at the hemline, and some shirring at the bust? And again, you realize, this scenario is all too familiar: You know exactly what you want and you've got the sewing skills to pull it off, if only there weren't that one, teensy-weensy recurring problem: the pattern. Even the best seamstress needs one, but a pattern for the vision in your head just plain does not exist. Yet.

It's no secret that sewing is the new hot craft — more people are sewing now than ever before. Sooner or later, most stitchers want to tackle more advanced projects, namely clothing. This is where the trouble sets in. The problem isn't in the sewing, but in the pattern. Unfortunately, finding the perfect pattern for what you want to make can be anywhere from difficult to impossible. The sewing pattern industry, with a few noteworthy exceptions, doesn't seem to be quite in sync with the surge in modern sewers — sewers who want to make clothes that look like what they might buy at their favorite retailers.

The new generation of indie seamstresses is watching Project Runway, reading ReadyMade and Selvedge, and shopping at small boutiques selling one-offs by local designers. You know what you want to wear but can't always find it on a rack. You know how to sew but don't see patterns that resemble what you want to make. You do want to make a unique look based on your own personal taste, influences, and body type. And you need the freedom to create patterns as your taste evolves over time. What's an intrepid stitcher to do?

Well, the obvious answer is to learn how to make your own sewing patterns! Patternmaking is an age-old art form, which, at its core, is extremely simple. The clothing we currently wear tends to be relatively simple from a patternmaker's point of view. We don't wear finely tailored suits or dresses with princess seams, darts, and gussets. We wear simple knit tops, skirts, loose dresses, basic woven shirts, and pants. Their style tends to come from details, as opposed to dramatic or complicated cut and construction. Thus, it's quite possible to teach today's sewers how to make their own patterns. And this book does just that in a fun, concise volume for the modern girl.

There are other reasons, besides the lack of selection, to learn how to make patterns. For example, three little letters: F-I-T. Fit can make or break a look. Whether shopping for clothing or patterns, finding ones that fit is frequently a struggle. This is because clothing manufacturers can't possibly make clothes to fit every conceivable body height, width, shape, and every combination of those factors. So they aim for the middle ground and hope for the best. Commercial sewing patterns have the same problem, though they do offer the possibility of simple adjustments, like altering length or combining two sizes in different areas to approximate your body. But only building a pattern from scratch, around your own personal set of numbers, can ultimately result in a garment that fits like it was made for you. Because it was!

Basic Shirt

There's nothing more classic than a woven collared shirt. Whether it's a menswear-style button-down, a Western cowboy-inspired number, or a girly, ruffly blouse, woven shirts are infinitely versatile and wearable. Feel like making one? You've got lots of options for fabric: cotton shirtings, quilting prints, eyelet, voile, chambray, pinwale cord, really almost any light- to medium-weight woven will do!

Let's talk for just a minute about functional ease. Whereas a knit shirt can be exactly the same measurements as (or even smaller than) your body, woven shirts require a bit of breathing room. Because they don't stretch, woven fabrics can't move and bend with you the way knits do. So giving yourself a little space between your skin and the garment will allow you to reach, twist, laugh, and dance without fear of busting a stitch! Functional ease subsequently will be referred to as FE.

Measurements
Bust circumference + FE* (at the fullest point)
Waist circumference + FE*
Distance from HSP (High shoulder point) down to waist
Hip circumference + FE* (where you want the bottom of the shirt to be)
Length of shirt (HSP to hem)
Shoulder width + 1/4" FE**
Neck width**
Front neck drop
Sleeve length
Bicep circumference + 1/4" FE**
Wrist circumference + 1/4" FE**

*For each of these horizontal measurements, divide by four. These quarter measurements will be the ones you use for drafting the pattern. They will be referred to as quarter-bust, quarter-waist, and quarter-hip.

**Divide these measurements by two. These will be referred to as half-shoulder, half-neck, etc.

Determining your armhole measurement
When measuring the armhole of a garment, we usually just measure a straight line (even though the actual armhole is a curve) from the point where the shoulder seam intersects the sleeve, down to the point where the underarm seam meets the side seam. A standard armhole measurement for a medium-sized fitted T-shirt is about 7" to 7 1/2". To figure out what will be best for you, grab some favorite tops from your closet and measure the armholes. If they tend toward 6 1/2-7", go with 6 3/4", and likewise if they're bigger. Or if you know your shirts always feel as if they're pinching at the pits, or conversely if you usually feel as if you're swimming in them, add or subtract an inch accordingly. You'll fine-tune this once you make a muslin and try it on, so for now just take your best guess.

Determining your front neck drop and neck width
For this woven shirt we will be making a collar, and your neck drop and width will determine the placement of the seam where the collar is attached to the shirt. Therefore, the drop should be a fairly traditional placement, right at the base of your neck where your two clavicle bones meet. On me, that's at about 3 1/2" down from my high shoulder point (HSP). The width should be the distance between your two HSPs. On me, that's about 7". You can play around with more adventurous collars and seams when you've got a little more experience, but for now let's just keep it simple!

For the rest of this how-to, download the PDF here.

Looking for more patternmaking inspiration? Check out a copy of Design-It-Yourself Clothes to kick-start your new wardrobe. Thanks to Cal Patch and the good folks at Potter Craft for sharing this project with us.

More How-Tuesday Posts | Supplies Category | DIY Made Simple Gift Guide

How-Tuesday: Frog Suit From Wacky Baby Knits

2009-09-29T15:00:00-05:00

Well, I'm not sure I really need to say anything once you've seen this baby in a frog suit. The cutie patootie inspires me not only to knit, but to reproduce. Since Halloween is only a month away, we picked this week's How-Tuesday according to our early childhood indoctrination program. Alison Jenkins' lovable and cuddly creations introduce your toddler to a lifetime of handmade costumes. You can download the project as a PDF here, or follow along below.

Alison's book, Wacky Baby Knits, has projects to suit any baby's style. With knitted mohawks, biker jackets, and monsters, I think I could find reasons year-round to play dress-up with the little ones. Can't get enough of the gleeful masquerade of children? Cast a vote for your favorite Etsy Halloween kids item here!

Purchase Wacky Baby Knits

One of the many joys of having babies is that you can dress them up in any way you choose. Sadly, this state of affairs is temporary: in a few short years they will have as many opinions about what they will and won't wear as you do. Try getting a three-year-old to wear a cute cow suit if he or she doesn't want to! Take full advantage of the opportunity while it lasts, using this book as your guide and inspiration.

This all-in-one outfit will keep baby snug as a bug — or amphibian — in a rug from head to toe, and the hood even has soft knitted frog eyes. Rows of knitted bobbles along the sleeves and hood add an irresistible tactile texture to the knit, but because the yarn used is very soft the bobbles won't feel lumpy against your baby's skin.

You Will Need
Pair of size 3 (3.25mm) needles
Pair of size 6 (4mm) needles
Size 3 (3.25mm) circular needle
5 (6:7) 2 oz (50g) balls light worsted knitting yarn in color A (green)
Oddment of light worsted knitting yarn in color B (white)
Oddment of light worsted knitting yarn in color C (black)
Tape measure
Stitch holders
Bodkin
17 small green buttons
Small amount of soft toy filling, approximately 1/2 oz (15g)

To Fit Sizes
0-3 months: chest 16 in (41cm)
3-6 months: chest 8 in (46cm)
6-12 months: chest 20 in (51cm)

Gauge
22 stitches and 30 rows to 4 in (10cm), mesured over stockinette stitch, using size 6 (4mm) needles

Special Abbreviation
mb — make bobble
Work to bobble position; purl into the next stitch, then knit into the same stitch. Repeat once more, then purl once. You will have made five extra stitches. Use the tip of the left-hand needle to pass the first four extra stitches over the last to form the looped bobble. Work to next bobble position, and repeat.

Back

LEGS (MAKE 2 ALIKE)
Using size 3 (3.25mm) needles and col A, cast on 16 (16:18) sts.
Work in k 1, p 1 rib for 1 1/4 in (3cm), ending with a rs row.
Increase row with ws facing: rib 4 (2:3), then *m 1, rib 1 st; rep from * to last 3 (2:2) sts, m 1, then rib to end. (26 [29:32] sts.)
Change to size 6 (4mm) needles, and cont in st st until work measures 8 (8 3/4:9 1/2) in [20 (22:24)cm] from cast-on edge, ending with a ws row.
Transfer sts to a stitch holder.

BODY
Join legs to form body: work across sts from one leg, then work sts held on stitch holder from the other leg.
Cont in st st on these 52 (58:64) sts until work measures 8 1/2 (9:9 1/2) in [22(23:24)cm] from the crotch join, ending with a ws row.

RAGLAN DECREASE
Bind off 3 sts at beg of next 2 (2:2) rows **, then dec 1 st at both ends of next and every alt row until there are 18 (20:22) sts, ending with a ws row.
Leave sts on a stitch holder.

Front

Work as back to **.

DIVIDE FOR FRONT OPENING
With rs facing, begin raglan shaping as follows: dec 1 st, knit 18 (21:24) sts, turn, and place the rem sts on a stitch holder. Work 1 row in st st. Cont dec 1 st at same end of next and every alt row until there are 11 (12:15) sts.
Work 1 row in st st.

NECKLINE SHAPING
With rs facing, dec 1 st, work to last 2 sts, dec 1 st. Dec 1 st at neck edge of next 3 (4:5) rows, while continuing the raglan shaping at the armhole edge. There are now 5 (4:6) sts. Dec 1 st at armhole edge only on rs rows until 2 sts rem.
Place rem 2 sts on a stitch holder:
Slip the sts for the right front from the stitch holder onto your needle, and rejoin col A.
Bind off the first 6 sts, then cont following pattern instructions to make the right front section, remembering to reverse the raglan and neckline shapings.
Place rem 2 sts on a stitch holder.

Sleeve (make 2 alike)

Using size 3 (3.25mm) needles and col A, cast on 26 (29:31) sts.
Work in k 1, p 1 rib for 1 1/4 in (3cm) ending with a rs row.

INCREASE ROW WITH WS FACING
First size: rib 3, then *m 1, rib 3; rep from * to last 2 sts, inc 1 st, then rib to end. (34 sts.)
Second and third sizes: rib (3:4), *inc 1 st, rib 3; rep from * to last (2:3) sts, inc 1 st, rib to end.
There are now 34 (38:40) sts. Change to size 6 (4mm) needles and begin patt as follows:
Cont in st st for 4 rows.
Next row (bobble row): with rs facing, work 4 (6:7) sts *mb, work 4 sts; rep from * to last 0 (2:3) sts, k0 (2:3).
Work 5 rows, then work bobble row, keeping bobbles in same position vertically.
Cont in patt.
Inc 1 st at both ends of 2nd (2nd:2nd) row, then at both ends of every foll 6th (10th:10th) row until you have 40 (44:48) sts. Work 5 (7:9) rows.

RAGLAN DECREASE
Bind off 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows, then dec 1 st at both ends of next and every alt row until 6 sts remain.
Leave rem 6 sts on stitch holder.

Hood

With rs facing, using size 6 (4mm) needles and col A, pick up and knit 10 (12:14) sts up right front neck, k across sts on front and first sleeve stitch holders, across back neck work *k 1, m 1; rep from * to last st, k 1, k across sts on second sleeve and front stitch holders, then pick up and k10 (12:14) sts down left front neck. (71 [79:87] sts.)
Purl 1 row.
Cont in st st until hood measures 7 (7 1/2:8) in [18(19:20)cm], ending with a ws row, then bind off 22 (26:30) sts at beg of next 2 rows.
With rs facing, cont on rem sts and patt as follows:
Cont in st st for 4 rows.
Next row: with rs facing, work 3 (3:4) sts *mb, work 4 sts; rep from * to last 4 (4:4) sts, mb, work to end.
Work 5 rows, then work bobble row, keeping bobbles in same position vertically.
Cont in patt for a further 4 1/4 (5 1/4:6) in [11 (13:15)cm], ending with a ws row.
Bind off all sts, and fasten off securely.
Using a bodkin and col A, join hood seams.

Button band and buttonhole band for front opening and hood

Using a size 3 (3.25mm) circular needle, pick up and knit 17 (19:19) sts along right front opening to neck, then 42 (46:50) sts along right side of hood to seam, 27 (27:27) sts across hood center front to other seam, 42 (46:50) sts down left side of hood, and 17 (19:19) sts along left front opening.
Work in k 1, p 1 rib for 3 rows.
Buttonhole row: Rib 3 sts, *ym, k2tog, rib 4; rep from * another 2 times, then rib to end.
Rib for 3 more rows, then bind off all sts in rib, and fasten off securely.

Button band and buttonhold band for leg opening

BUTTON BAND
With rs facing, using size 3 (3.25mm) needles and col A, pick up and knit 45 (51:57) sts evenly along inside leg edge of back to crotch, beg at the ankle rib of the left leg then pick up and knit 46 (52:58) sts from crotch to the edge of the right ankle rib. Work in k 1, p 1 rib for 7 rows, then bind off all sts in rib and fasten off securely.

BUTTONHOLE BAND
With rs facing, using size 3 (3.25mm) needles and col A, pick up and knit 45 (51:57) sts evenly along inside leg edge of front to crotch, beg at the ankle rib of the right leg, then pick up and knit 46 (52:58) sts from crotch down to the edge of the left ankle rib. Work in rib for 3 rows.
Buttonhole row: Rib 4, *ym, k2tog, rib 5 (6:7); 3 more rows, then bind off all sts in rib, and fasten off securely.

Eyes and eyelids (make 2 of each)

Using size 3 (3.25mm) needles and col A for eyelids (col B for eyes), cast on 18 (24:30) sts. Purl 1 row, then cont in st st for 6 (10:12) rows.
Next row: *k 1, k2tog; rep from * to end. Break off yarn, then draw it through the rem sts, pull together tightly, and fasten off securely.

Nostrils (make 2)

Using size 3 (3.25mm) needles and col A, cast on 15 (18:21) sts.
Purl 1 row, then cont in st st for 6 (8:10) rows.
Next row: *k 1, k2tog; rep from * to end. Break off yarn, then draw it through rem sts, pull together tightly, and fasten off securely.

Sewing together

Join raglan, sleeve and side seams. Weave in all loose ends neatly on the reverse.
Overlap the bands and sew the lower edges to the bound-off edge at the center front opening.
Sew buttons onto lower left front side of button band to correspond with buttonholes.

SEWING TOGETHER EYES AND EYELIDS
Join eye seam, and stuff each with a small amount of toy filling. Sew the cast-on edges to the hood at the end of the seam near the crown. Take an eyelid, and wrap it around the back part of the eye, so that the cast-on edge forms the lid around the eye. Sew the other edge to the hood around the base of the eye.

SEWING TOGETHER NOSTRILS
The cast-on edge represents the opening of each nostril; sew the other edge to the hood close to the seams at the front.
Weave in all loose ends neatly on the reverse. Finally, use a small amount of yarn in col C to make large stitches at the front of each eyeball to represent pupils.

Looking for more knitted baby costumes? Check out a copy of Wacky Baby Knits for the cutest inspiration you'll ever need. Thanks to Alison Jenkins and the good folks at Perigee for sharing this project with us.

More How-Tuesday Posts | Supplies Category | DIY Made Simple Gift Guide

How-Tuesday: Like-New Shoes From Crochet Adorned

2009-09-22T16:00:00-05:00

When my fingertips begin to get antsy, overambition tends to get the best of me. Weeks and weeks later I end up with a bag of abandoned crochet squares in my closet, yet no afghan under which to cuddle and drink hot tea. Linda Permann's book, Crochet Adorned, is a bounty of pretty crochet projects that prove crafting satisfaction is attainable for all! With cheerful ideas to spruce up old cardigans, tote bags, and aprons, this autumn will be the season to refashion, renew, and renovate. For this week's How-Tuesday, Linda answers some of our questions on inspiration and design, and shares her Like-New Shoes project for those extra bits of handspun yarn you've been saving in your basket.

Purchase Crochet Adorned

There is something so simple about sitting down with a hook, some yarn, and an idea. And yet the thought of making something to wear can be so intimidating! Notions of shaping stitches to fit your body, making sure you have the precise gauge, and wondering if you even measured yourself correctly in the first place can turn off beginners — and plenty of more experienced crafters! — from making crocheted garments.

Last summer I started thinking about ways to incorporate crochet into my wardrobe that took away the intimidation factor. I kept seeing crochet details in fashion and thinking, "I could do that... better." There's something about having a hand in making your garments that gives them longevity — for me, no store-bought piece can compete. So I started to design embellishment projects from simple trims to vintage-inspired, motif-based yokes and collars, and from there, this book was born. I hope you find the projects quick to work, inexpensive, and fun to make.

Interview With Author Linda Permann

Please introduce yourself and tell us what you do.
My name is Linda Permann and I'm a crochet and craft designer and writer. I design crochet patterns and craft projects, write articles on techniques, and write a crochet advice column for Crochet Today, among other things.

What draws you to crocheting and how did you get started with it?
I think I've just always liked to work with what I have and do things as I go, and crocheting lends itself to both of those practices. My grandma taught me to crochet when I was little but I really never went anywhere with it, and then in 2001 I went to the Knit Out and picked up some crochet pamphlets — no idea why I decided to do crochet instead, but there you have it. I mainly wanted to make some hats and scarves for myself and then I started making more for friends, coworkers, etc.

Where do you find inspiration for your creative process?
Everywhere! For this book I looked at a lot of fashion and ready-to-wear catalogs — not only at crocheted things, but knitted, sewn, machine produced, etc. I find a lot of inspiration by reading blogs and in real life attention to little details. I work at a yarn shop and I love seeing what people are making and touching all of the yarn. Yarn is probably the #1 thing that inspires me; even if I have a somewhat predetermined idea of what I want to make in my head, the yarn tells me the best way to make it.

What's next for you?
More writing, more crafting, and more crochet designing! Although I can't divulge the particulars, let's just say I don't see myself stopping anytime soon.

Is there anything else you would like to add?
Check out my blog at www.lindamade.com and, if you make something from or inspired by the book, please add it to my Crochet Adorned Flickr Group.

Like-New Shoes

Give your tired shoes a mini-makeover with these easy trims. They work up so quickly that you'll be able to coordinate a pair with every outfit. You'll only need a tiny bit of yarn for each shoe, so try working with odds and ends you have on hand.

Skill Level
Beginner

Finished Measurements
The completed Chain Stitch Trim measures 1/8" (3mm) wide; the length of the trim is determined by your shoe. One completed Ruffle Trim measures 3/4" (2cm) wide by 3 1/4" (8.5cm) long.

Materials
Yarn
Size D-3 (3.25mm) crochet hook (for ruffle trim) or size F-5 (3.75mm) crochet hook (for chain trim), or size to obtain gauge.
Yarn needle
Shoes to embellish (look for a pair that's easy to sew through)
Hand-sewing needle
Sewing thread to match yarn
Fabric glue (optional)

Gauge
Gauge is not critical for this project. Refer to the finished measurements, and make one ruffle or one length of chain to check gauge.

Ruffle Trim (Make 2)
With yarn A and a size D-3 (3.25mm) hook, ch 14.
Row 1 (WS) Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, turn — 13 sc.
Row 2 Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), (3 dc, hdc) in first sc, *hdc in next sc (hdc, 3 dc, hdc) in next sc; repeat from * across.
Fasten off. Weave in the ends.

Note: If you'd like a longer ruffle, work a longer foundation chain. Make sure to work a multiple of 2 chain stitches.

Attaching Ruffles
Sew one ruffle to the toe of each shoe. Use a sharp needle to sew the foundation chain loops to the front edge of the shoe opening, then tack some of the ruffles in place from the inside of the shoe. Knot off the thread and secure the end with a dab of fabric glue, if desired.

Chain Stitch Trim
Make two foundation chains, each about 1" (2.5cm) longer than the opening of your shoe. Fasten off the yarn and weave in the ends.

Place one end of the chain trim at the instep of the shoe and sew the trim around the entire edge. When you reach the beginning of the trim again, overlap the excess 1" (2.5cm) and securely sew the trim in place. You can also try gluing the trim in place, but be sure to test the glue first to make sure it won't discolor the shoe or yarn.

Looking for more ways to embellish with yarn? Check out a copy of Crochet Adorned for delightful inspiration. Thanks to Linda Permann and the good folks at Potter Craft for sharing this project with us.

More How-Tuesday Posts | Supplies Category | DIY Made Simple Gift Guide

How-Tuesday: Headboard From Wallpaper Projects (Giveaway too!)

2009-09-15T16:44:00-05:00

My favorite part of visiting historical homes is hands down, the wallpaper. Ornate, textural, colorful, geometric, gilded, florid — these are the kinds of patterns that transform a space into a realm. For this week's How-Tuesday, we're sharing a project from Wallpaper Projects, as well as general instructions for installing wallpaper yourself. In Derek and Lauren's book, innovating with this inspiring material to produce brooches, lampshades, medicine cabinets, and room dividers brings instant design to any element in your home. The Headboard how-to below is an easy way to customize your bedroom with the option to change it up every few years. And since even Marimekko has jumped on the wallpaper bandwagon, it's time to take paste into our own hands.

Do you use wallpaper in unusual ways? Comment on this post and you'll be eligible to win a free copy of the book, or pick one up for yourself here.

Why Wallpaper?
It's beautiful. Yes, this is certainly true. If you've spent any time browsing home decor books or magazines, or clicked around on any design blog worth its salt, you've undoubtedly noticed all the gorgeous contemporary and traditional wallpapers making their way back into the mainstream of interior design. Artists and designers of all stripes are not only rediscovering wallpaper, they're reinventing it. Aided by remarkable innovations in digital printing, design, and distribution, many manufacturers are exploding traditional expectations of what wallpaper can be, offering consumers all sorts of new and exciting options — from types of paper and ink to alternative eco-friendly materials to affordable custom designs.

It's versatile. Sure, paint is great, but it's got nothing on wallpaper. Even with 101 different shades of white to choose from, painting a room can only get you so far. Wallpaper, on the other hand, can (and will) completely transform a space. Depending on what pattern, motif, or colorway you choose, applying wallpaper to even just a single accent wall can make a room feel tall, wide, small, big, bright, dark, fun, serious, quiet, loud, funky, classic...whatever look or mood you're going for, there is a perfect paper out there for you.

It's easy and fun. Forget all your preconceived notions about wallpaper. It isn't messy, or hard to install. It's not some sort of interior design tattoo that you'll be stuck with forever. The papers and adhesives on the market today have made the whole process much safer and more forgiving, and the results more durable yet even easier to remove. If you make a good game plan and use the right tools, we bet you'll be pleasantly surprised at how easy wallpapering actually is.

It's great on and off the wall. Every wallpaper project is different, but one thing they all have in common is leftover scraps. With a bit of crafty ingenuity you can turn what would normally be inevitable waste into a unique opportunity to beautifully accent different areas in your home, create personalized stationery and accessories, revamp tired pieces of furniture, create frame-worthy works of art, make one-of-a-kind gifts...the options are endless. We've included more than 50 fun projects in this book to get your creative juices flowing.

Headboard

Since we've never found a headboard we were in love with, we spend an inordinate amount of time in the morning fluffing up our pillows to conceal as much of it as possible. Crafting one out of wallpaper opens up all kinds of possibilities: Not only can you play with colors and patterns, but you can cut out shapes as ornate or simple as you'd like.

Materials
Large piece of scrap paper for template
Wallpaper

Tools
Measuring tape
Pencil
Scissors
Blue painter's tape (optional)
Wallpaper paste
Brush or paint roller
Plastic float
Sponge

1. Measure the width of your bed and decide how tall you want the headboard.
Standard Bed Widths

Single: 39"
Double/Full: 54"
Queen: 60"
King: 76-78"
California King: 72"

2. To create a template, photocopy or trace our Headboard template or draw your own template design on scrap paper. To ensure symmetry, make the template for one half of the headboard and flip it over so that it mirrors itself when tracing out your design. You can download a PDF of the Headboard template here.

3. Cut out the template from the scrap paper with scissors, and trace the design onto your wallpaper of choice. If your design is wider than two sheets of wallpaper, you may need to align and piece three sheets together. We suggest lining up the seams and temporarily taping them into one piece with blue painter's tape before tracing and cutting out your design.

4. Cut out your wallpaper headboard, and apply the paper to your wall as you would normal sheets of wallpaper. See general instructions for applying wallpaper below.

Applying Paper to Your Walls

Two sets of hands are better than one when it comes to handling long expanses of wet paper, so it's a good idea to invite over a friendly helper.

Pasting
First, read the instructions that came with your paper. Different manufacturers may recommend different methods for installation. Prepasted papers, for example, just require a quick soak in water. But in general, the following instructions pertain to most situations. Cover your table with a plastic drop cloth and have all your tools within easy reach. Then, start pasting.

1. Lay your wallpaper strips on top of one another, pattern-side down, with the first piece on top of the pile. (When you spread the paste over the edges of the top piece, it'll go directly onto the back of the next piece, which means less mess and no wasted paste.)

2. Pour a nice, big glob of paste into a paint tray.

3. Use either a wallpaper brush or a paint roller to apply an even layer of paste to the entire back of the paper, working from the center out to the sides. It's especially important to make sure you get the edges, which will prevent your seams from showing. Because nobody wants their seams showing, right?

Booking
Once you have full paste coverage on your strip, it's time to book it. "Booking" your paper involves laying pasted sides together — which seems quite counterintuitive but ends up saving you space and ensuring better adhesion of your wallpaper. This process will allow the paste to activate and be properly absorbed by the paper. Rest assured, it will pull apart just fine.

1. With your first strip pasted-side up, grab one end and bring it toward the center of the strip, creating a very loose fold. Without creasing the paper, place the end down so the pasted sides are together.

2. Bring the other end toward the center and place it so that the cut lines are butting — thereby essentially folding your strip into thirds.

3. Now you can fold the strip onto itself a few times (no creases!) and set it aside while you paste up the next one. You can leave booked pieces in a plastic bag for up to half an hour without any problems. We generally paste and book 4 to 5 pieces at a time.

Hanging It Up
This is it. The moment of truth — applying the pasted paper to your wall. This is also when you discover wallpapering is much easier than you imagined it would be. The paper is totally manageable, the paste surprisingly forgiving... Congratulations, you are minutes away from enjoying a magically transformed room.

1. Use a level and a pencil to lightly mark a plumb (perfectly vertical) line on your wall where you want to put up the first piece of wallpaper.

2. Unfold the top half of your first pasted-and-booked strip and, beginning at the top of the wall, line its edge up with your plumb line.

3. As you line up the edge, press the paper against the wall and begin smoothing it down with your smoothing brush.

4. Once you reach the middle of the wall, unfold the bottom half of the paper and continue lining up the edge with the plumb line, smoothing as you go. You may notice a few small air bubbles, but don't panic — those will disappear as the paper dries. If there are a number of large air bubbles that are making you nervous, gently pull the paper away from the wall and smooth it down again.

5. With the paper in place, nice and straight, smooth the entire strip down with your brush, working from the center outwards.

6. Repeat the same smoothing process with your plastic float. This will spread the underlying paste evenly out toward the edge of the paper and press your seams flush to the wall.

7. Grab your second pasted strip and repeat steps 2 through 6. But instead of lining up the edge with the plumb line, you're now matching the pattern of the wallpaper.

8. Once you've got a few pieces up, gently wipe down the paper with a damp sponge, especially at the seams, to remove any paste that may have made its way out onto the front.

9. Continue pasting up your strips until you reach the end of the wall.

10. Place your 4" broad knife at the top of the wall where it intersects with the ceiling or molding. Carefully slide the blade of your utility knife along the edge of the broad knife to create a clean, straight cut. Continue cutting in this manner until you've reached the end of the strip. Snap yourself off a fresh blade and move onto the next strip.

11. Repeat the same cutting process along the bottom edge of the paper where it intersects with the floor or molding.

Do you use wallpaper in unusual ways? Comment on this post and you'll be eligible to win a free copy of the book, or pick one up for yourself here. Thanks to Derek Fagerstrom, Lauren Smith, and the good folks at Chronicle Books for sharing this project with us.

More How-Tuesday Posts | Supplies Category | DIY Made Simple Gift Guide

This Is Not a Blog Post

2009-09-11T12:28:00-05:00

I have always been fanatical about narratives, but I hadn't really contemplated the possibilities of the book as an object until working at Special Collections in college. From 19th century miniatures to hand-printed Yolla Bolly aquatint etchings, books came to be portable sculptures, records, decor, specimens, shrines. As any fellow library-lover knows, the marginalia is often far more engaging than the original text.

In the spirit of reinventing our relationship with these ubiquitous artifacts, this post shares a few pages from Keri Smith's This Is Not a Book. With projects for personal contemplation and public experimentation, Keri's creation is meant to be vandalized with inspiration.

Keri provides some context for this unusual book with these encouraging words:

"As with all of my books, I wanted to create something that was a direct experience (as opposed to a passive one). You cannot sit and do nothing with it or it means nothing. I am interested in what is called an "open work," a work that is created by me but the final output is a result of the reader/user's experience of the world. Every person who comes to This Is Not a Book will have a different response to it. This is what I find beautiful about social mediums, seeing what other people come up with that I would never have thought of. I am also interested in pushing the imagination to a place it's never been before. Adults especially are not encouraged to use the imagination for fear of being thought of as crazy. I aim to change this the world over. The world would be a much better place if we could all dream more and challenge ourselves to be ridiculous."

How do you transform your everyday objects? Share in the comments below, and I'll pick a commenter at random to win a free copy of the book from Penguin Publishing. Or you can pick up a copy for yourself here.

Have you checked out Etsy's Books and Zines category lately?
You can find handmade publishing for style, satire, and poetry.

Breathers no. 0

By justmadbooks, $2.

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Flying to the dream tiny book

By behappynow, $15.99.

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Poetry Book

By theinkling, $6.

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Intricate Dwellings

By thejuzzard, $4.50.

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For many, Etsy serves not just as a marketplace of goods, but also as a marketplace of ideas. To find sellers working with each other producing craft-hybrids like the ones below, try searching "collaboration."

SALE Bracelet Etsy Collaboration

By TheBrokenPlate and pinkkiss, $40.

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Lifecycle - Collaborative Giclee Print

By JenMcCleary and alisonalison, $40.

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moss terrarium No. 152

By madebymavis and mudpuppy, $36.

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3 collaborative coloring books

By yaelfran and over 60 Etsy artists, $33.

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Objects that take on a life of their own rely on the elusive medium of motion. These Etsy items capture movement in time and space. Inject some flux into your home with handmade mobiles.

BW print - 'Untitled'

By zseike, $25.

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Mobile nite frond earrings

By MiniCyn, $39.

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Spoon Clock With Pendulum

By MetalMedia, $75.

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Orange Mobile - Stained Glass

By TheGlassCrafter, $115.

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The creations in the Sculpture category cannot be contained by two dimensions. These eruptions of material make me feel sorry for any bare surface in sight.

The singing lady ceramic sculpture

By peanutbutterandyelly, $15.

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The Gift, light sculpture

By illuminarysculpture, $600.

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Pencil Dress

By tompkikr, $900.

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Explosion - Wood with String Ball

By makalewakan, $380.

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How do you transform your everyday objects? Share in the comments below, and I'll pick a commenter at random to get a free copy of the book from Penguin Publishing!

More This Handmade Life Posts | DIY Made Simple Gift Guide | Art Category

How-Tuesday: Pillow With Rosette Clusters From Felt Furnishings

2009-09-08T15:30:00-05:00

I haven't crafted with felt since I was little, but since picking up a copy of Anne Kyrrö Quinn's book, Felt Furnishings, I have a whole new universe of respect for the material. Anne was encouraged to revisit felt by her tutor in her final year studying Textile Design at London Metropolitan University, and she hasn't looked back since. The techniques she explores in this vibrant craft book truly transform felt into modern, eye-catching home accents.

For this week's How-Tuesday project, we're sharing her pillow with rosette clusters. The gathered felt creates a feast of color for the eye; don't the pictures just make you want to reach out and caress the nestled folds? This project comes from Anne's chapter on gathering and ruching, but her felt techniques cover the gamut, from pleating to applique. Each page of this book leaves me awestruck.

Purchase Felt Furnishings

Sometimes an idea for a new design will come to me when I'm playing around with a piece of felt in my hand. I often find that, when I'm twisting and manipulating the cloth, it starts to suggest interesting forms and shapes that could be used as decorative sculptural surface treatments.

To capture these forms, I have used the traditional techniques of gathering and ruching to create highly textural surface structures from felt and felted wool fabric. Some of these techniques are perhaps more often associated with floral-patterned chintz and lavishly deployed in extravagant soft furnishings; however, when using natural felt or heavy woolen cloth, these same techniques can create a totally different look that is modern, sculptural, and organic. To help to update these techniques even more, I have carefully balanced the flat and raised surface areas within my designs to create a distinct contrast between the textured, frilled, or ruched cloth and the areas of smooth, single-colored felt or wool fabric.

When choosing the colors to use for your gathered and ruched projects, bear in mind that tonal shades will enhance the play of light and shadow, while a contrasting color could be used for the gathered areas to further emphasize the effect of the textured detail against the flat background. Patterned fabric could also be used for the gathered detail, which would create an interesting effect, as the pattern would distort and make the colors merge.

Inspired, in part, by my diving vacations on coral reefs in the South China Sea, this design has a vital, dynamic quality, as the three-dimensional effect plays tricks with the eyes. The wonderful texture and depth of color have been created by folding small circles of bright orange cloth (either felt or felted wool) and packing them very tightly together on the base fabric in order to create a structure that seems alive, and screams out to be stroked.

Materials and Tools

Feather pillow insert, 10 x 18" (25 x 45cm)
For the pillow cover: 23 1/2 x 19" (57 x 47cm) orange felt or felted woven-wool fabric
For the folded rosettes: 20 x 18" (50 x 45cm) orange felt or felted woven-wool fabric
Matching zipper, 18" (45cm) long — optional
Matching sewing thread
Basic sewing kit
Sewing machine

1. If you wish to make a pillow back with a zipper, cut out three pieces of felt for the pillow cover — one piece measuring 11 x 19" (27 x 47cm) for the front and two pieces measuring 6 x 19" (14.5 x 47cm) and 6 1/2 x 19" (15.5 x 47cm) for the back. If you wish to make a sewn-in pillow back, cut the back panel to the same measurements as the front. To make the rosettes, cut out 60 felt circles with a 3" (7cm) diameter.

2. Pinch each felt circle in the middle, and fold the sides in to form a rosette. Hand-stitch the base of each folded rosette to hold it together.

3. Starting at one end of the front pillow panel, hand-stitch the rosettes onto the fabric, stitching neatly and securely through the base of each one.

4. Continue adding rosettes, positioning them very close together to form a dense, wide row of rosettes through the center of the pillow panel. Make sure that the row of rosettes is straight and that there is the same amount of undecorated base fabric on either side of the row.

5. Make up the pillow back and join the front and back following one of the two options below. Insert the pillow form into the finished cover.

Sewn-In Pillow Back

This is a really easy and quick way to apply a pillow backing, and it requires only a small amount of hand-sewing. The back panel of the pillow is cut in one piece, to the same size as the front panel. The front and back panels are pinned together, with right sides facing, then machine-sewn along three sides using a 1/2" (1cm) seam allowance. Once the cover has been turned right side out and the pillow form inserted, the seam is turned in along the fourth side and closed with invisible stitching. The drawback to this method is that, once sewn in, the pillow cover cannot be easily removed for washing, and would require picking out the seam and resewing.

1. Cut a piece of fabric for the back of the pillow cover to the same size as the front panel, including the same 1/2" (1cm) seam allowance (or as specified). Place the two panels with right sides together, and pin along the seam allowance on three sides, leaving the fourth side open.

2. Using matching thread and a small to medium sized straight stitch, machine-sew along the three sides to join the front and back panels together, removing the pins as you sew. Cut off the corners on the diagonal, being careful not to cut through the stitching — this will produce neater corners on the finished pillow.

3. Turn the pillow cover right side out and insert the pillow form. To close the fourth side of the cover, fold the 1/2" (1cm) seam allowance to the inside and pin the edges together.

4. Stitch the two sides together, keeping the stitches as invisible as possible. To do this, work from right to left if you are right-handed and from left to right (as shown) if you are left-handed. Knot the end of the thread, and bring the needle and thread out through one folded edge. Slip the needle through the fold of the opposite edge for about 1/4" (5mm); bring the needle out and draw the thread through. Continue to slip the needle and thread through the opposing folded edges.

Pillow Back With Zipper

Although sewing in a zipper requires a degree of technical skill, this is still not a complicated way to make up the back of a pillow cover, and it is the method that I would recommend using, as it does mean that the cover can be easily removed for cleaning. The back panel of the pillow cover is cut in two pieces, which are joined together in the middle by the zipper, running horizontally. You will need a metal or nylon closed-end zipper in a color that matches your pillow cover. The zipper should be the same length as the pillow form.

1. Cut two pieces of fabric for the back cover. Both should be the same width as the front cover (adding a 1/2" [1cm] side-seam allowance, or as specified); one should be 1 1/2" (3cm) longer than half the length of the front cover, and the other should be 1" (2cm) longer, giving a 1/2" (1cm) seam allowance along the top and bottom edges, and a 1" (2cm) and 1/2" (1cm) seam allowance along the inner zip edges respectively. With the fabric wrong side up, fold in 1" (2cm) along the inner edge of the larger back piece, and press.

2. With the zipper wrong side up, pin one side of the zipper tape along the cut edge of the fold, with 1/2" (1cm) clear at each end for the side seams. Open the zipper. Using the zipper foot, machine-sew the tape in place along the folded edge.

3. Pin the other side of the zipper tape along the inner edge of the other back piece, with the fabric right side up. Machine-sew in place.

4. Fold the edge over to form a neat fold aligning with the zipper's teeth. Machine-sew in place.

5. With the zipper half open, pin the front and back covers with right sides together. Using a 1/2" (1cm) seam allowance, machine-sew around the edges. Cut the corners (shown in step 2 opposite); turn right side out, and insert the pillow form.

Looking for more luscious felt projects for your home? Check out Felt Furnishings for stimulating inspiration. Thanks to Anna Kyyrö Quinn and the good folks at Potter Craft Publishing for sharing this project with us.

More How-Tuesday Posts | Supplies Category | DIY Made Simple Gift Guide

Craft with Etsy at the MAD Museum with Megan Nicolay

2009-08-06T10:09:00-05:00

REMINDER: Tonight, August 6, is the first DIY Thursday. Details here.

Why stay in and sew all by your lonesome? Craft Night at the Etsy Labs on Gold St. may be on hold until September 14 when we move to our new office, but fear not — many crafty opportunities abound! Etsy has joined forces with the Museum of Art and Design to present a weekly series of hands-on workshops we're calling DIY Thursdays. Drop in between 6-8 p.m. each Thursday in August for some down and dirty, do-it-yourself fun in the museum's studios. The workshops are free with pay-what-you-wish admission to the museum. Click here for directions.

Not a New Yorker? Don't fret, you can still join in on the fun online by joining us at 5:30 p.m. ET on Thursday in the Virtual Labs for a live demo of the project. (Click here to see what time 5:30 p.m. ET is in your hometown.)

Join us as the series continues on Thursday, August 13 with a workshop lead by Megan Nicolay, founder of Generation-T. She will demonstrate some of the many ways to refashion your stash of old t-shirts into fun and unique new designs. Come to MAD's studios with your old band shirts, thrift store finds, and any t-shirts that could use a fashionable update!

Megan Nicolay is a writer, editor, photographer, dancer, renegade fashionista. Blending a DIY spirit with her own sculptor’s vision, Megan’s craft harkens back to Dadaist found-object art and collages. In 2006, Megan’s ambition and style was celebrated by the publication of her book Generation T: 108 Ways to Transform a T-shirt. In 2009, her second book Generation T: Beyond Fashion: 120 New Ways to Transform a T-shirt was published. You can catch clips from her appearances on local television news programs on her website.

Upcoming Events with Etsy:

8/20: DIY Thursdays at MAD: Fabric collage and embroidery with Astulabee

8/27: DIY Thursdays at MAD: Paper piecing with Aaron McIntosh

9/14: Grand Opening Craft Night at Etsy Labs' new space in Dumbo, Brooklyn (Details to come.)

Looking for further t-shirt inspiration? Try these links:

Trends: The Right to Bare Arms | Handmade Portraits: maryink & 1aeon

Will we see you Thursday, ready to reconstuct your old t-shirts? Let us know in the comments below.

Handmade Weddings: Wedding Photography Unveiled with Jacqueline Tobin

2009-07-16T13:35:00-05:00

We invited Jacqueline Tobin, author of Wedding Photography Unveiled, to share her knowledge with our readers. Jacqueline is a great resource for insider info for both newly engaged brides-and grooms-to-be, as well as photographers interested in breaking into the wedding business. She'll be live in the Virtual Labs for a follow up discussion. UPDATE: We must postpone this discussion. The new time is July 16 at 4 p.m. ET.

Over the past 23 years, I have watched as wedding photography has evolved into one of the most well-respected and lucrative fields in the industry today. I’ve worked at Photo District News (PDN), a trade magazine for professional photographers, since 1986 and currently work there as deputy editor. While not a wedding photographer myself, I do assign and write many, many articles about wedding photography; I help judge PDN’s Top Knots New School of Wedding Photography Contest every year, and I recently collaborated with the top 20 photographers around the country to write my first book Wedding Photography Unveiled (Amphoto Books/March 2009). It was important for me to write this book because the industry has changed so much over the years, going from staid and stoic poses to purely candid photojournalist shots to a current, and much sought after, mix of photographic styles and approaches, including fashion-forward looks, lifestyle and editorial feels, and fine-art touches. Wedding photography has never looked better!

Portrait photo by © Daryl Lang.

We bounced some frequently asked questions off of Jacqueline. Here are some of the tips she has for couples searching for a great wedding photographer:

I'm engaged! When is a good time to start looking for a photographer?
The sooner you start, the better, since the wedding photography is such an important element of your special day; it’s something you will look back on and cherish forever. Even if you don’t book someone for another year (once a date is set), it still can be helpful to start looking as early as possible to decide the style you want, the price range you can afford, and so on.

© Jose Villa

Where does one look?
These days brides get inspiration for their wedding photography from a variety of sources:

Bridal and fashion magazines (high-fashion looks are a big trend in wedding photography right now)
Photographers’ websites (You can find national, as well as and international, listings for wedding photographers at the Wedding Photojournalist Association, the Perfect Wedding Guide and The Knot.)
Your family’s and friends’ wedding albums

How is it possible to tell the caliber of a photographer? What should I ask to see?
You definitely have to shop around, see what’s out there, check reputable sites (like those above) and just look through lots and lots of images. When you meet with a photographer, ask to see finished albums so you can see what they’ve done for previous clients. Online, you can also put his or her name into a search engine and look for comments (good or bad) from past clients.

Also, ask the photographer to show you more than one wedding album and more than one style. These days photographers are shooting a mix of traditional and candid images, and they need to excel in several different genres: still life (for important details), fashion, lifestyle, and photo journalistic looks (for candid moments).

© Elizabeth Messina

Is it my responsibility to do anything for the photographer while the wedding/reception is taking place?
You should have a conversation with your photographer well ahead of time so you don’t have to be giving directions while the wedding and reception are taking place! This is your day and you don’t want to spend it working out the kinks: that’s what wedding planners and maid of honors are for! Many brides like to supply a shot list to a photographer ahead of time that maps out exactly the photos they want the photographer to get; others hire photographers who shoot purely documentary and candid images and are very “fly on the wall” — you don’t realize they are present, but they are and they are getting every single moment that unfolds.

How long after the wedding does it typically take before I get my photos?
It depends. First you’ll see proofs, which many photographers post online days or weeks after the wedding. Next, you’ll choose the images you want (I recommend going to the photographer’s studio to discuss your choices in person), and then an album can take anywhere from 3 to 6 months to sometimes even a year. Ask up front how long it will take before you can expect your albums.

Since Etsy has a lot of great photographers, we figured some of you may be thinking about shooting weddings. We asked Jacqueline for some tips about getting started in the business:

How do I go about breaking into the business?
I recommend taking workshops from professional photographers (pros like Dennis Reggie, Joe Buissink, Bambi Cantrell, Mike Colon, Elizabeth Messina and Jose Villa are the more popular choices), going to trade shows and attending seminars, ordering DVDs on the basics and searching web sites like DigitalWeddingForum.com, WPJA.com and WPPIonline.com to get a sense of what the latest trends and technology in the industry are the moment. Also ask friends who are getting married if you can be a “second shooter” (but stay out of the way of the hired photographer!) and just take as many images as you can to see what the pace is like and what it really takes to be a great wedding photographer. You’re working 8 to 10 to 12 hour days, and after wedding day you are still working on a job for weeks and months — proofing images, doing post-production on the computer, designing the albums, etc.

© Christian Oth

How does wedding photography differ from other kinds of photography?
Today’s wedding photography is not different, just expansive — it includes many different genres (fashion, lifestyle, editorial, fine art), and these days you need to have a basic knowledge of all of them to shoot the day as it unfolds, from capturing the getting ready shots to the ceremony photos to formal and semi formal portraits after the ceremony to the wedding reception.

What are some of the tricks of the trade? Are there any special tools?

During the reception, lots of photographers like to use fast lenses, fast film and high ISOs, because most times these parties take place at night in low light conditions.
Befriending the videographer always helps because you can use their light in a shot. (Try to stay at a 45-degree angle from the videographer’s direct light or try to keep him or her directly behind the wedding couple to use as a backlight during their first dance.)
Never use direct flash. Bounce off the ceiling or tent, or slave a second strobe remotely for depth.
Instead of using a tripod, try to steady yourself by shooting a few images in a burst. With a camera like the Canon 5D, you can shoot with higher ISOs without too much noise and can steady yourself to half-second handheld for images at dusk.
When shooting formal portraits, mix it up a bit and take the couple outside and find interesting locations or settings and to make the shot more memorable.
As for special tools, you can probably start out shooting a wedding with just one camera, like a basic or mid-range SLR, but as you become more and more advanced, you’ll personalize your equipment list. (And it always helps to have a handheld light meter, lots of memory cards and extra batteries on hand.) Later on, you may want to get into post-production on your computer to further enhance your images (many photographers like to use a photo-editing program like Photoshop to adjust skin tones, brighten the sky, or just make an image more dramatic or vivid.)

How can I prepare for the unexpected?
I don’t think you can. That’s the beauty of a wedding. There will be lots of unexpected moments that arise, but fortunately for the photographer, most couples want those images too. You are there to document the day as it unfolds. You can always edit out the bad images later on!

Please mark your calendars and meet Jacqueline in the Virtual Labs for a follow up chat. UPDATE: We must postpone this discussion. The new time is July 16 4 p.m. ET... If you think of questions for her, please post them in the comments below!

Getting ready to say "I do"? Check out the items below; some of the artists featured offer wedding photography services and may be local to your area or willing to travel. You'll find more Etsy wedding photographers in this forum thread.

How-Tuesday: Snuggle Up with a Bedtime Duvet

2009-04-07T15:56:00-05:00

I challenge you to scroll down without feeling overcome with an urge to yelp, "Awww!" Don't worry, you're not weak, it's simply an impossible task. Download the complete project instructions here, or follow along below, courtesy of Baby Stuff by Aranzi Aronzo.

Aranzi Aronzo claim to be a Mexican-Japanese man working at a securities firm and a Norwegian Vietnamese-Indian man who plays the tambourine full-time. They are actually two sisters who create mischievous fun with their adorable crafts and hilarious comics.

Hi, we're Aranzi Aronzo. This book teaches you how to make things you'll need for your baby. Well, maybe your baby won't really need them, but they're things that might be fun to have. Pregnancy is a magical time unlike any other. Having a baby is hard work but there will also be plenty of things that warm your heart. Each day is like a fun adventure. Make the things in this book while thinking of your baby, your relative's baby or even your friend's baby.

Thanks to Aranzi Aronzo and the folks at Vertical for sharing this project.

More crafty project downloads can be found in our How-Tuesday series on the Etsy blog! And did you know that you can buy Supplies on Etsy?

How-Tuesday: Make a Donkey Softie

2009-03-24T16:20:00-05:00

We jumped on this adorable donkey tutorial by Myra Masuda and immediately knew we needed to share! Download the complete project instructions here, or follow along below, courtesy of Softies Only a Mother Could Love: Lovable Friends for You to Sew, Knit, or Crochet by Jess Redman and Meg Leder. This makes a great gift for the kiddo or the adult toy-collector in your life.

Donkey

Tools
Iron
Tracing paper
Scissors
Pins
Sewing needle
Sewing machine
Stuffing stick (or chopstick or pencil)

Materials
Body fabric - An 18 cm x 30 cm (7 in x 12 in) piece of plain fabric for the main body; a 15 cm x 25 cm (6 in x 10 in) piece of new or vintage patterned fabric for the inner body.

Extra fabric - A scrap of plain tan or cream fabric for the muzzle; scraps of white felt for the eyes and black felt for the pupils; interfacing for the ears.

Thread - Colored sewing thread to match the body fabric; brown, pink and white embroidery thread for the mane and tail.

Stuffing - Polyfill.

Instructions
1. Trace and cut out the pattern using the template provided. Pin it to the fabric and cut out the pieces. You will need to cut 2 main body shapes, 2 inner body shapes, 6 ear shapes (2 in each fabric, plus 2 in interfacing), 2 muzzle shapes, and 2 pupil shapes from your fabric.

2. Pin each muzzle to a main body piece (x to x, right sides facing). Sew Together.

3. Pin body/muzzle pieces together (right sides facing) and sew around the top of the body from A to B, leaving an opening for turning right-side out and stuffing (as marked on the pattern).

4. Pin the inner body pieces together (right sides facing) and sew from A to B.

5. Pin the inner body piece to the main body piece (right sides facing), A to A and B to B. Sew together.

6. Trim edges and clip fabric around the curved edges. Be careful not to clip the seam. Turn right side out.

7. Using a stuffing stick, push small amounts of stuffing into the tight corners first — legs and muzzle. Gradually fill the rest of the body until the stuffing is firm and even, but not too tight.

8. Hand-sew the stuffing opening closed using a ladder stitch.

9. For the eyes, sew each black felt oval onto a white felt circle and then position the eyes on the head as marked. Sew in place. Make French knot with the white embroidery thread for each pupil, as marked on the pattern. Use 3 strands of brown embroidery thread to sew the nostrils onto the muzzle using a straight stitch. Then use 3 strands of pink embroidery thread to sew the mouth using a back stitch. Sew the eyelashes with black embroidery thread.

10. For each ear, pin together a solid color fabric piece, patterned fabric piece, and interfacing (with fabrics right sides facing). Sew together, leaving the base open for turning right-side out. Turn right-side out and iron flat. Turn the base edge of the ears under 6 mm (1/4 in) and hand-sew closed using a ladder stitch. Sew right and left bottom corners of the ear together to form a ring. Position ears to the head (y to y) and attach with a ladder stitch.

11. For the tail, fold the tail piece in half (right sides facing) as marked on the pattern. Sew along the long edge to make a tube. Turn right-side out. Turn the edges under 6 mm (1/4 in) at each end and sew closed using a ladder stitch.
12. Use black embroidery thread for the end of the tail. Insert the needle into the tail, about 8 mm (5/16 in) from the end. Pull through, leaving about a 5 cm (2 in) tail. Cut off, leaving a tail of equal length. Repeat all the way around the end of the tail. Tie a piece of thread around the tail tassel, close to the end where it is attached to the tail. Attach the tie to the end of the tail so it won't slip off. Trim the tassel to a uniform length.

13. Pin finished tail to the back of the donkey at B. Attach with a ladder stitch.

14. Use black embroidery thread to stitch the mane. Starting at point C, insert needle on right side of "spine" and bring out 3 mm (1/8 in) over, on the left side of the spine, leaving about 2.5 cm (1 in) tail on the right side. Insert needle at the first point of entry and bring out at the second point (effectively "tying" the thread to the spine). Cut off, leaving a 2.5 cm (1 in) tail on the left side. Repeat this process until you've worked your way from point C to point D. Once finished, trim the mane to a uniform length of about 2 cm (3/4 in).

Thanks to Myra Masuda, Jess Redman, Meg Leder and the folks at Penguin for sharing this project.
More crafty project downloads can be found in our How-Tuesday series on the Etsy blog!

How-Tuesday: Zakka Pincushion Tutorial

2009-03-10T16:34:00-05:00

Download the complete project instructions here, or follow along below, courtesy of Zakka Sewing by Therese Laskey and Chika Mori.

Pretty wrist pincushions are the perfect accessory for sewing—the pins are always where you need them. This one looks like a flower corsage that you might have worn to your high school prom. To change the size of the band, measure your wrist and add 1" plus an additional 1/2" for seam allowances; this becomes your strap measurement. All the other measurements and directions remain the same.

Flower Corsage Pincushion

Materials

Scrap of linen, 6" x 8 1/2"
Scrap of eyelet cotton, 4" square
Scrap of printed cotton, 4 1/2" square
Scrap of tan wool felt, 1 1/2" diameter circle
Plastic from gallon milk container, cut to 1 3/8" diameter circle (for pincushion liner)
All-purpose thread to match fabrics
1" length of 5/8"-wide Velcro Fiberfill
Flower pattern (shown below)

Preparing the Fabric

Cut using pattern
Cotton: 1 large flower
Eyelet cotton: 1 small flower

Cut freehand
Linen: 1 circle, 1 1/2" in diameter
1 rectangle, 2 1/2" x 8 1/4"
Wool felt: 1 circle, 1 1/2" in diameter
Plastic: 1 circle, 1 3/8" in diameter

Seam allowance: 1/4"

Zakka Fact:
With so many people crafting and sewing, making a pincushion is a way to demonstrate a personal style
with a practical object. Tons of made-in-Japan pincushions were imported to the United States in the
1940s – 1960s, including the ever-popular tomato.

Making the Pincushion

1. Make Flower
Edge-stitch around the petals of both flowers, to deter fraying. (Drawing A)

Layer the flower pieces, right side up, from the bottom up as follows: large flower, small flower, and linen circle. (Drawing B). Adjust the two flowers so that their petals are "staggered" (Drawing C), center the linen circle three times, sewing through all three layers. Set the flower aside.

2. Make Strap
Fold the linen rectangle in half lengthwise and press it. Then turn under the rectangle's three sides with raw edges in place. Edge-stitch around all four sides.

Stitch the Velcro's loop side on one end of the strap and its hook side on the underside of the strap's other end (Drawing D).

3. Put it All Together
Stack and pin the layers from the bottom up as follows: wool felt circle, plastic circle, strap, and flower (Drawing D). Blanket-stitch the wool felt to the flower, leaving a 1" opening.

Stuff the circle with fiberfill, placing it between the plastic and strap. Hand-sew the opening closed.

Note: The fabric flowers' edges tend to fray: if you want a more finished look, use felt or Ultrasuede.

Thanks to Therese Laskey, Chika Mori and the folks at Stewart, Tabori & Chang for sharing this project. Check out zakkahome.com for more information about the book.

More project downloads are available here! Check out all the How-Tuesday content!

How-Tuesday: Applique a Cameo Tote

2009-02-03T12:27:00-05:00

Dress up an everyday outfit with this classic black and white carry all. Equestrian, Victorian?... Yes, please! Download the complete project instructions here, or follow along below, courtesy of The New Handmade by Cassie Barden.

When damask, silhouettes, ruffles, and pearls all suddenly came back into fashion in the past couple of years, I admit to being rather giddy about it. There's something about prim but playful Victorian styles that I really love. This bag is inspired by those fashions, but is firmly planted in this century by the graphic drama of the black on cream. The next time you're invited to high tea, you'll have the perfect bag for the occasion.

Victorian Cameo Bag

Materials

Yardage is based on 42"-wide fabric unless indicated otherwise.

1/2 yard of black-and-cream damask for outer bag and straps
1/2 yard of purple print for lining
3/8 yard of solid black fabric for appliqué and outer-bag contrasting
strips
Scrap of cream fabric for appliqué
1/2 yard of 17"-wide paper-backed fusible web
3/8 yard of batting

Cutting
For raw-edge machine applique, cut out the patterns on the lines.
For other methods you may need to add a seam allowance.
From the black-and-cream damask, cut:
2 rectangles, 12" x 14"
2 strips, 4" x 20"
From the solid black fabric, cut:
4 strips, 2" x 12"
1 large oval appliqué (use pattern)
1 horse head appliqué (use pattern)
From the purple print, cut:
2 rectangles, 12" x 16"
From the cream fabric scrap, cut:
1 small oval appliqué (use pattern)
From the batting, cut:
2 rectangles, 12" x 16

Making the Bag

Use 1/2"-wide seam allowances throughout, unless otherwise indicated.

1. Pin and sew the 12" edge of each black strip to the short edges of each damask rectangle. Press the seam allowances open.

2. Center and machine appliqué the cream oval to the black oval using the fusible web and your favorite method. Center and appliqué the horse head to the cream oval. Center and appliqué the unit to one of the damask pieces.

3. Place the appliquéd panel and the remaining panel from step 1 right sides together. Sew around the side and bottom edges. Clip the bottom corners at an angle, and then turn the piece right side out. This is the outer bag.

4. Layer a batting rectangle on the wrong side of each purple rectangle. With the lining pieces right sides together and using a walking foot, sew around the side and bottom edges like you did for the outer bag. Leave a 3" gap about 2" from the bottom on one side seam. You will eventually pull the entire bag through this hole, so make sure to backstitch before and after the gap for extra strength. Trim away the batting in the seam allowances. Clip the bottom corners as in step 3, but do not turn the piece.

5. To make the straps, fold a damask print strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press the fold. Unfold, turn the raw edges of the strip in to the center crease, refold on the center crease, and then press the strip. Topstitch along each long side of the strap a scant ¹⁄8" from the edge. Repeat with the remaining damask strip.

6. Mark 2" in from each side seam along the top edge of the outer bag. With the raw edges matching, pin the ends of each strap to the bag, aligning the outer edges of the strap with your 2" mark. It’s easy for the straps to get pushed at an angle as you sew the next seam, so pin the strap to the outer bag a couple inches down to keep it perpendicular. Repeat with the remaining strap on the other side of the bag.

7. With right sides together, place the outer bag and straps inside the lining bag, sandwiching the straps between the layers. Align and pin the raw edges together.

8. Sew all the way around the top of the bag, backstitching over the two side seams, as well as over each strap.

9. Pull the bag through the gap you left in the lining seam. While the lining is “out” of the outer bag, whipstitch the gap closed.

10. Push the lining into the outer bag, roll the top seam (see below), and press the bag.

Thanks to Cassie Barden and Martingale & Company for sharing this project. To learn more about the book, visit thenewhandmade.com.

For more project downloads click here! Get all our How-Tuesday content!

Black and white cameos | Victorian-inspired accessories

Jane Brocket: A Habit of Seeing

2009-01-13T13:45:00-05:00

Between her blog, yarnstorm, and book, the Gentle Art of Domesticity, author Jane Brocket delights in the creative outlets and simple pleasures of the home. Whether it's a basket full of textured yarn or a colorful collection of books, she finds inspiration close at hand and believes you can too...

I used to assume inspiration was the province of artists and poets, architects and designers, scientists and inventors. Inspiration could surely visit only those with a higher purpose in life, with a greater sensitivity than the rest of us, with a more refined awareness than the average mortal.

I was wrong. Inspiration is inspiration, whether the end result is a painted masterpiece, a soul-searching sonnet, a richly colored homemade quilt or a batch of freshly baked scones. We shouldn't diminish our creativity by despising the results of our inspiration, but instead celebrate and exploit the wonderful feeling of elevated energy and enthusiasm we experience when we feel inspired. That quickening of the sense and the heightening of the imagination are, I'm sure, just the same for the Matisses and Wrens and Brownings as they are for the rest of us. It's just that they can do different things with their inspired talents.

Inspiration is the opposite of expiration, a drawing in, as opposed to a letting out. We can walk through life without seeing, without taking in the details, the words, the colors, the pictures, and miss the whole point of inspiration. Or, we can adopt an approach that allows us to stop a while and look and listen and reflect and enjoy. We can learn to sift through the mass of stimuli we encounter every day and to focus on what inspires us as individuals and, in doing so, create a way of seeing, a way of being receptive to inspiration.

For the one thing that sets creative people apart is that they have all acquired the habit of being receptive to inspiration, actively seeking it or even simply recognizing it. Some may have to travel to the ends of the earth to find inspiration; others may find it hiding in libraries, at the tops of mountains, buried under the earth. But the domestic artist is in the glorious position of being able to find inspiration in daily, domestic life.

Writing yarnstorm has made me focus each day on something positive so that I have a subject for my posts. When I started photographing the details of my domestic life, I was quite sure I would run out of material in a matter of weeks. But, instead of exhausting all possibilities, I actually found myself unearthing more and more sources of inspiration, all within the confines of a quite ordinary, domestic life.

The more I realized I was surrounded by inspiration, the more I felt I could do with it. Some days are more passive and ruminative, and I may feel inspired by something as simple as noticing a new flower in the garden or reading a short story, but on other days I am inspired to think up a whole quilt design, take up crochet or imagine a pineapple tea cozy.

Even if I had all the free time in the world, I would not feel compelled to create endlessly. Making things would then become mechanical and mindless, and there would be no room to contemplate inspiration and to work out how to incorporate it into my life as a unique form of self-expression. For the more willing you are to let yourself be inspired, the more you can store away in your creative resources. This way, you can call on them when you do have the time and inclination to turn the personal stash of colors, details, patterns, and textures into something tangible. And it will be all the richer in meaning as a result of this habitual and highly individual accumulation.

Copyright The Gentle Art of Domesticity by Jane Brocket, published by STC Craft/Melanie Falick Books, an imprint of Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2008.

Featured Buyer: The Breeders' Kelley Deal

2008-12-31T14:00:00-05:00

You may know this week's Featured Buyer, Kelley Deal, rocks... but did you know she also knits and crochets? It's true! (Her new book, Bags that Rock, has 20 great purse patterns to prove it!)

This long time musician and fan of all things handmade took a break from touring the world with the Breeders in support of their latest album, Mountain Battles, to search Etsy using some of her favorite words as inspiration. Check out her finds below.

My mom and dad are from West Virginia. There is a rich tradition of needlework and handcrafting there. I can remember my grandmother, hands gnarled with arthritis, crocheting intricate lace using a tiny hook and what was basically thread! My mother taught me how to crochet when I was little and she and I continue to share a love of handwork. We have made quilts together and even roped my sister, Kim, into the process. Kim hand-quilts so beautifully and perfectly I had to encourage her to "make it look more hand done" or people would think it was machine quilted.

I found it impossible to just start at the Etsy home page and pick a dozen or so items. Hours would go by as I just got lost browsing and ambling from one unique piece of art to the next. I had to shake off the "Etsy art fog" and focus my search. What I did was to enter specific keywords about stuff I liked. Like...Ohio, crossword puzzles, yarn, beads and so on. That really helped me narrow down my list.

Smokestack Ohio Tee by ChopChop

I was born and raised in Ohio. Do you know hard it is to find an "OHIO" shirt that is not some variation of red, gray and white? I gotta get this.

Crossword Puzzle Glass Image Pendant by JoanJewels

I am addicted to crossword puzzles...this is adorable.

My Baby Crossword Puzzles by CubistLiterature

When I searched using the keyword 'crossword' this came up. I have no idea why it came up, but I kept going back to it. It's just really funny: this nice muted polo with these scary, alien bunnies. Very strange. I must have it.

Felt Beads Assortment With Polka Dots by kjoosupplies

These are exquisite! Look at the color palette. I could just frame this picture and hang it as art.

Mastiff Stitch Markers (set of 5) by weeones

An item that unites my love of knitting and of bull mastiffs? Please. My dog's name is Carter and he's a good boy.

Hand knitted Super Wash Merino Wool Socks Handspun Blue Yellow by cherryblossoms

Good lookin' socks! I haven't made a pair yet, but when I do, I want them to look just like these.

The Breeders Concert Poster by vrsdesign

Great job! Uh, you need to send me one....

Hand Spun BFL Wool..Tencel.. Merino- 4.5 oz - 2 Ply - Serendipity by Epicurus

Oh my. Look at the colors. I don't know anything about spinning or rovings or whatever. Is the whole process just a big experiment? How does someone plan for yarn to look like these? Maybe it's best just left as a mystery.

Haphazard 1 - One of a Kind Mini Quilt by summersville

This is really lovely fabric put together so randomly and yet so right.

Art Nouveau Inspired Felt Flowers Brooch, Wintery Skies by designedbyjane

All of this artist's work is exquisite: such attention to detail and such neat work.

Graffilthy Hoops by dmdmetal

Oh my god: These are so cool. I know this guy. He's a graffiti writer and he is so talented. His shop is called dmdmetal. Hi Wand - everyone in Ohio says "Hi!" Let's see, there's the 'A', then the 'B'....

For more on Kelley and her new book, check out kelleydeal.net. For more Breeder's updates, visit breedersdigest.net. Thanks to Kelley for taking the time to visit and happy New Year to all!

Looking for past Featured Buyers? Check out our archive!

Crafting + Activism with Betsy Greer

2008-12-19T16:00:00-05:00

To keep the spirit of the season in perspective, we invited Betsy Greer, author of Knitting for Good! and founder of Craftivism.com to engage in a little Q & A on the topic of changing your life and your world one stitch at a time. Her coinage of the word "craftivism" and the movement it represents inspired this very section of the Etsy blog!

Please introduce yourself and talk a bit about your blog and book.
I'm an overly curious dilettante who is always asking questions and
looking for new adventures. For the past 4 years, I've been writing about craftivism, the place where craft and activism connect, from a cultural perspective. The nerdy stuff began in 2004 when I wrote my master's dissertation on knitting, punk/DIY culture and community.

Craftivism.com started out as a sociology project: What happens when you create a theory/idea using a new word and don't tell anyone about it? Who finds you? Why? I'm so happy to see that so many people also feel that used in tandem, craft and activism can be incredibly strong and powerful.

The main message of the book, Knitting for Good!, is that craft can change yourself, your community and your world. It was written for people who want to get more from their crafting than solely product or sales. I hope that it will encourage readers to expand their own thoughts about what their two hands can make and do.

Can you talk about the inspiration for the book and how it came together?
In late 2006, I was contacted by Shambhala Publications about the possibility of writing a book for their new creativity imprint, Trumpeter. Jennifer Brown, my editor, (who knitted the globe on the cover) was interested in a project that would show where craft could take you... if you let it. We agreed that there needed to be more out in print about the driving forces behind crafts, instead of just craft itself.

I was lucky to have the opportunity to explore where I wanted to go with the text, which includes some sidebars by some of my favorite crafters, makers and thinkers. It was lovely to share some of the dialog I've been having with people, in their own words. The main inspiration was to excite people about craft in deeper ways. We hear all the time about all the cool things we can make, but we don't always hear a lot about how craft can be a catalyst for change.

I had a vision of the intended reader being someone who wondered, "So I know how to knit. I know lots of patterns. Now what do I do with it?" That being said, there are 9 knitting patterns by talented designers in the book, all examples of items you can make for charity, we just didn't want the patterns to be the book's focus.

Can you give an example of an unexpected use of craft for good?
One favorite project I discovered while writing the book was Naomi Dagen Bloom's condom amulets. After discovering that women over 50 were contracting HIV at an alarming rate, Naomi decided something should be done. She made patterns of necklaces that had a place to hold a condom. Not only were they created to promote safer sex, by turning them into jewelry, they were a starting point of conversation.

She has really helped spread the word about the rising illness rate of a demographic people don't often associate with HIV/AIDS, older women, who are often seen as non-sexual entities instead of sensual individuals. I love how Naomi discovered a need for education and then filled that need in such a way that conversation about the issue naturally flows from the crafted item.

How do you plan to give back this holiday season?
This season I've been working on some newborn infant caps to donate to the local hospital, and participated in The Chicago Sun-Times Season of Sharing program.

I also bought handmade gifts for many people on my holiday gift list, buying from local artisans and businesses. (I wish I could buy everyone handmade, but we still have a ways to go before everyone starts to realize that craft does not equal crap, the way that some people still have the idea that making a gift for someone is not as good as buying from the mall.)

[Baby hat by Uproar. Proceeds from the purchase of the yarn went to safe shelter, education, and health care for the women of Nepal.]

As such a stigma about handmade exists, I've been really excited to have the chance to talk to people of varying demographics about the significance and strength of craft! The book has allowed me into conversations I would have otherwise never had. It's my hope that through dialog some people's opinions have changed regarding craft. In a perfect world, people looking for gifts for others would immediately think of a local store or artisan rather than Amazon or Wal-Mart.

[Handspun Suffragette Yarn by WeirdAndTwisted. Donations to Terre de Femmes.]

How can people integrate craftivism into their everyday lives?
Finding something that you're passionate about is a very good first step into activism. It may be craft, it may be soccer, or fishing. If it is craft, then craftivism is something you should look into! If it's fishing, you can take the tenets in the book to apply them to your situation, it just may need a different name?

After you've discovered what makes your heart sing, you can the brainstorm ways you can use it to connect with others and make positive change. One of the nice things about craftivism is that it's based in the idea that one small act can have an enormous impact. For example, if you knit a hat for a homeless shelter, it will go to someone who was previously hatless. You are not only showing them that they are worthy of handmade objects and that someone cares for their welfare, you are also helping make their life a little better in an instant.

[Hand-dyed yarn by Sanguinaria. Donations to a girl's summer camp in Maine.]

Another thing that I think is imperative is to really start opening yourself up to where you live. There are so many things going on in our own lives that strangers often become blurs in our peripheral vision. In order to help make your environment better, you need to start paying attention to its needs, both immediate and long-term. Make eye contact with the homeless man that asks for change, acknowledge his presence, don't just avert your eyes; bake dinner for your neighbor that just got home from the hospital; offer your crafty knowledge and volunteer to teach art classes when the arts funding is cut. We tend to get so into our own little bubbles and shy away from what others around us are going through that we become disconnected from our community and our world, not to mention our own whims and desires. By starting out small and opening your eyes to what's happening around you, you are more apt to see what voids you can fill.

[Photo by localcolorist, who makes paper cranes for peace.]

Once you truly understand that your actions really do make a difference, then in many ways everything you do is a craftivist act. At the end of the day, craftivism is about turning two culturally negated words into something positive that helps towards the greater good. The hard part is finding that place between the vastness of the planet and how you as one person with your specific talents can help. It may take some seeking, but it's worth it.

Anything else you'd like to share?
I'd like to challenge people to learn a new craft in this upcoming year. And then once you've learned it, find new ways to use it to help yourself, your community and your world. In learning from scratch, you allow yourself to make mistakes and explore, something you might not necessarily be able to do in a craft or hobby you've participated in for years. By picking up something new we can begin to not only increase our skillsets, but we can live our lives in a more creative manner by giving ourselves license to discover and question.

Please share your craftivism projects in the comments below!

Cannibal Pumpkin: A Halloween How-To

2008-10-29T19:09:00-05:00

Halloween is day after tomorrow — you better get carving! Not enough gruesome pumpkin eye candy for your Halloween baskets? Not to worry! Tom Nardone, crafty author of Extreme Pumpkins has a few more tricks (and treats) up his sleeve.

Life requires bravery; if you're timid, the cannibals will eat you for sure. To illustrate this point, each year I buy a giant pumpkin and feed other pumpkins to it. A ruthless jack-o'-lantern munching on the flesh of its own kind really frightens all the sweater-vest types. Here's how you can scare your neighbors, too. You can follow along below or download the pdf file here.

Tom with a few of his pumpkin pals.

Get inspired to get extreme! Buy the book here.

And his other book here!

Pumpkin season is popular here on Etsy. Don't forget to taste the Flavors of Fall, or bask in autumns favorite color, Orange, Beautiful Orange. Did Halloween sneak up on you this year? There's still time to put together a killer costume! Oh, and don't worry about what to bring to that party on Friday, we've got some spooky cupcakes that are sure to cause a scream or two.

More pumpkin treasures can be found in the related items below. Seach Etsy for all types of handmade pumpkin items!

Recycled Glove How-to: Make a Chipmunk Softie

2008-10-17T15:34:00-05:00

Gloves (like socks), while born to be part of a pair, often end their days in lonely solitude, separated from their mates by the forces of the universe that conspire at every turn to pull them apart. Alone, they sadly serve little purpose (aside from the occasional show biz appearance for only the most sparkling among them), and are left to languish in the backs of a drawers and bottoms of closets — that is, if they're not disposed of all together. Ah... but it's a new day.

With her book, Happy Gloves: Charming Softy Friends Made from Colorful Gloves, she's given hopelessly single gloves a new lease on life as cozy companions. In her able hands, one glove's worth of material becomes an elephant, a penguin, a donkey, a bunny — you name it — all set free to romp and play together. (Can't you just hear the claps of cheer?)

Crafter and author Miyako Kanamori has a plan and she's ready to share it!

Try your hands at this chipmunk to start your very own menagerie of recycled glove critters. Download complete instructions here or follow along below.

BUY the book at Amazon!

Thanks to the Penguin Group for sharing this project from Happy Gloves.

Author Miyako Kanamori is a crafter who lives in Tokyo. She is also the author of Sock and Glove. You can see more of her work at her website: bananawani.org/nuiguroom.

For more cute critters made from recycled materials, search "Recycled Softie". Some examples plus a few other autumn-inspired creations can be seen in the related items below.

Skull Guy Noah Scalin Embraces Death Daily

2008-10-15T17:51:00-05:00

Author and Skull-A-Day maker Noah Scalin shares his Etsy picks for spooky and sweet skulls. Join him this Friday, October 17 at 11am (EDT) for a Skull-A-Thon in the Treehouse of the Virtual Labs. Get ready to share your skull-themed favorites and Noah will do the same. Together we'll created a Treasury with our favorites! Without further ado...

I guess there are worse things to have shouted at you than, “It’s the Skull Guy!”…which is exactly what happened the first time I set foot in the Etsy Labs!

At that point I had made just over 100 of the 365 skulls in my Skull-A-Day project and had
no idea where it was heading. Since then, the project has lead to a Featured Video on YouTube (made by Etsy no less!), my very own book (called SKULLS of course), and even a visit to The Martha Stewart show, not to mention the thousands of fans across the globe, who shared their own work and enthusiasm for the project with me.

It all started with just a small orange cut paper skull I put online, saying “I’m making a skull a day for a year.” It’s a good thing I loved skulls before I started the project, since I ended up spending anywhere from 2 to 10 hours every day for that year, thinking about, researching, making, and photographing them! And it seems I’m not done with skulls yet, as I'm curating a second year of Skull-A-Day with hundreds of skull submissions by artists young and old who continue to be inspired by the project. At this point, I guess I’ve earned the title of “Skull Guy” and considering all that the skulls have done for me, I won’t even mind if you shout it at me.

Check out Noah's last visit to the Etsy Labs...

Subscribe to our iTunes Podcast!

The related items below represent some of Noah's skull-scouting on Etsy. Find your own new favorites with a few of these searches: "Skull Jewelry", "Skull Art", & "Dia De Los Muertos."

Create your own cross-stitched skull with Noah's original pattern or send a skull greeting for Halloween or anytime with Noah's free skull e-cards.

Jewelry How-to: Naughty Secretary Club Bracelet

2008-09-19T16:41:00-05:00

This goes out to all you office girls (and guys), slaving away out there in a stuffy cubicle, working for the man... all the while surreptitiously reading this here blog, and looking oh so busy... (how do you do it?) Ah, we joke, we joke. Take heart, it's Friday! ...And the Naughty Secretary herself, Ms. Jennifer Perkins, has a special treat — a free project download! Plus lots of other ideas for all of those office supplies you "borrowed" in her new book, The Naughty Secretary Club: The Working Girls Guide to Handmade Jewelry. Now get to work and make yourself this sweet bracelet!

Office Hanky-Panky Bracelet

(Download complete instructions here.)

Stuff You'll Need:
1 hanky or other thin vintage fabric scraps; 3 vintage clip-on earrings; silver bracelet blank; button-covering kit; chain-nose pliers; wire cutters; scissors; Liquid Fusion Glue

STEP 1: Gather your materials
Choose a hanky or thin piece of material with an office theme. Gather your stray clip earrings, bracelet blank, glue, scissors and button covering kit. Make sure that the size of the kit you choose corresponds with the size of the blank on your bracelet.

STEP 2: Cover the Button

Using the circle template provided in the button-covering kit, cut out a circle from your hanky, making sure the part of the image you want to show is in the center of the circle. Hold the fabric circle right side down and center the top half of the button on top of it.

STEP 3: Arrange Covered Button Inside Cup

Insert the fabric with the top half of the button on top into the larger plastic cup. Fold all of the extra fabric edges on top of the button. Push the back of the button into the plastic cup, making sure all of the fabric edges are tucked under it.

STEP 4: Secure Button Back

Use the blue cap provided in the kit to push the button back down into the plastic cup, securing the fabric under the button back. Simply pop the covered button out of the plastic cup.

STEP 5: Remove Button Shank

Use chain-nosed pliers to remove the shank from the back of the covered button.

STEP 6: Remove Backs from Clip-on Earrings

Use chain-nosed pliers and wire cutters to remove the backs of the vintage clip-on earrings. Occasionally a Dremel tool with a sanding attachment will be needed to smooth rough edges for a better gluing surface.

STEP 7: Adhere Covered Buttons and Earrings to Bracelet

Use your favorite glue to attach alternating earrings and covered buttons to your bracelet. Let everything dry overnight and wear to work!

Can't get enough of this naughty secretary? Be sure to catch Tuesday's Etsy Finds, where Jennifer shares some of her key sources for jewelry-making supplies — right here on Etsy. (And we're talking way more than beads!)

Not on the mailing list for Etsy Finds? Sign up today! All the goodness of Etsy, conveniently delivered to your inbox!

Complete Embellishing: Kayte Terry Shares Inspiration, Embroidery and More

2008-08-22T15:50:00-05:00

Multi-faceted designer, blogger, and now, author Kayte Terry gives us a look inside her very first book, Complete Embellishing. Feeling crafty? Kayte's kindly shared a download with full project instructions for your very own ribbon-embroidered tunic.

Please introduce yourself and talk a bit about your book.

My name is Kayte Terry and I am a stylist/writer/crafty lady from Brooklyn, NY. Complete Embellishing is my first book and covers all sorts of embellishment techniques—from appliqué and needlefelting, to printing and dyeing fabric.

You cover so many different techniques in the book, what

do you hope people will come away with?

I really wanted to show people that it's not that hard to turn ordinary clothing and home decor into something really extraordinary and they don't have to sacrifice fashion or style.

Also, I think the modern crafter is more experimental: she doesn't just think of herself as a knitter or a sewer. Crafting is more of a way of life. The book is split into Techniques and Projects because I really wanted to encourage people to experiment and mix and match techniques, not just follow my patterns exactly.

Would you say your experience as a visual merchandiser and photo stylist effected your approach to the book and if so, how?

Oh, definitely. I worked as a Visual Manager at Anthropologie for many years, and it was such a creative environment: we were always dreaming up new displays and learning new craft techniques. I learned to switch gears very quickly and be an omni-crafter. One day, we would be making giant fruit out of fabric, the next day we would be making trees out of books and we would all just roll with it.

Also, when you are a stylist or a merchandiser, you really have to look at the big picture, so I thought a lot about the overall aesthetic of the book when I was making the projects. I wanted everything to make sense together, but still offer projects that appealed to lots of different people. I hope people can see that in the book.

Can you talk a little bit about where you find inspiration and your creative process?

I would say I am just constantly looking for inspiration. I carry a digital camera and a sketchbook with me all the time. I do a lot of people-watching and daydreaming. When I need to think, I take long walks and think and plan and sketch in my head. I read a million magazines and books: I love Japanese craft books, Selvedge magazine and Elle Decoration UK especially.

I love craft blogs too, but I am actually trying to curb the habit a bit. I found that I spent hours reading about craft and not so much time making things. As much as I love getting inspiration from the outside world, sometimes you just need to turn everything off and focus on your own creative process.

You seem to have a hand in so many different aspects of craft and creativity; how did that develop, and how do they all play off each other?

I have been making things my whole life. When I was growing up, I had a different career dream every other week, and I would get totally obsessed with something, read all about it, get a bunch of tools, then move on. I decorated cakes, painted silk and drew fashion illustrations. Honestly, I thought this was a major character flaw and that eventually I would have to settle on one thing, but actually, I think my short attention span has worked in my favor!

When I stopped working full time at Anthropologie, I thought I was going to sit at my sewing machine and make things to sell all day long. I quickly realized that I just couldn't do that: I hate making multiples of things and I never would have made any money with one of a kind crafts.

That's when I got the opportunity to work at Adorn* magazine as the stylist, and the experience was just awesome. In addition to styling, I started making a few projects an issue and writing for the blog. I am at my happiest juggling a few different tasks at a time and wearing a few hats at once. What I really love is craft: it doesn't matter if I'm writing about it, styling a craft magazine or sewing a dress, I'm just happy to do it and so thankful that this is my job.

*Full disclosure: I was very lucky to witness Kayte's creativity first-hand, having worked together on Adorn magazine.

What's next for you?

Well, I have another book in the works that will be out next year. I am also working with the new and fabulous Craft Stylish magazine. I have quite a few projects in the upcoming Holiday Makeover Ideas issue and styled the whole issue too!

I'm also a member of the Etsy {New New} team and we've been planning a few of our own craft fairs: the Handmade Cavalcade on September 13th in Beacon, NY and a big holiday event too!

I am also hoping to carve out a little time for myself! I have quite a few sewing projects I want to work on and some new things I want to try. My latest obsession is making hair accessories and I'd like to get a few of them up in my own Etsy shop, loveforever.

Anything else you want to share?

I just hope, more than anything, that people are really inspired by this book! For updates on the book and everything else I'm doing, visit my blog, thisisloveforever.com/blog.

-Thanks, Kayte! Click here to download project instructions for the Ribbon Rose Tunic pictured above, designed by Kayte for her book, Complete Embellshing, from Creative Homeowner publishing.

For more with Kayte, check out the Storque articles she's reported, including a trend story on Scandinavian design and this post from the front lines of Brooklyn fashion.

Fashion photos care of Creative Homeowner publishing; button collage, care of Kayte Terry.

Rob Walker's Murketing Book: Buying In

2008-08-06T12:07:00-05:00

Tinaseamonster recently interviewed author Rob Walker for her Crafty Bastards blog in the Washington City Paper (click here for the whole piece). As many, many of you know, Rob Walker writes a regular column for the New York Times Magazine called "Consumed" and penned a feature article "Handmade 2.0" that introduced the indie craft scene to a larger audience. You may also be interested in following his blog, where he analyzes and muses about the intricacies of material culture in America. He's a great writer and we recommend checking out his new book, Buying In.

For those of you in DC, you can meet Rob in person tonight:

"In his fascinating new book, BUYING IN: The Secret Dialogue Between What We Buy and Who We Are, Walker examines the dialogue between who we are and what we buy. His research into brands like Red Bull, Sanrio and Converse is eye-opening and funny.
Walker will be discussing his new book at Politics & Prose (5015 Connecticut Avenue, N.W.) on Wednesday, August 6th at 7 p.m. Plus — he’ll be giving away 25 of these awesome screenprint posters from Little Friends of Printmaking. He was nice enough to answer our questions about marketing, Etsy, Hello Kitty and more."

More posts from tinaseamonster.
More posts about Rob Walker.

Special Virtual Lab Book Reading with Author of Crafty Mama

2008-07-18T11:54:00-05:00

At 12pm EDT, July 21, come welcome Abby Pecoriello, author of Crafty Mama, to the Virtual Labs! As part of the Handmade Kids series, we've invited Abby to talk about her how-to book for creative moms. She'll fill us in about her inspiration for the book of "49 fast, fabulous, foolproof (baby & toddler) projects" and show off some of her favorites, including no-sew fleece hats, "Bragnets," and "Insta-bibs."

Abby decided to share her projects with new mothers, because as a mom, she found herself crafting the exhaustion and craziness away! Her book also takes up the social challenges of new motherhood, and Abby details how to start crafting groups and classes for moms.

It will be a fun, informal "virtual" book tour appearance!

Join us at noon (EDT) on Monday, July 21st, 2008 — come on your lunch break!
Log on to Etsy and meet us in the Library of the Virtual Labs.

Everyone is welcome to attend. All you need to participate is to be logged in with an Etsy username (it's free and easy to register for Etsy).

If you can't make it virtually, or if you enjoy "real life" appearances more, you can catch Abby at the Park Slope Barnes and Noble at 2pm on Monday July 21. Details here.

Abby will be teaching an upcoming Monday Craft night so let us know which project from the book is your favorite in the comments below and stay tuned for more info.

Spread the word to your crafty mama friends!

Handmade Kids Series | Special Kids Showcase | Baby Gift Guide | Children Gift Guide

Creepy Cute Crochet: Fuzzy Alien How-To

2008-07-14T15:34:00-05:00

For our Handmade Kids Series, Christen Haden aka NeedleNoodles, master of "creepy cute" amigurumi, shares the Fuzzy Alien project for you to do with your kids (or with your friends!) and answers our questions on behalf of her ninjas, robots, and zombies. Her book, Creepy Cute Crochet is available through Quirk Books.

UPDATE from Lacey at Quirk Books:

"Since Quirk loves Etsy so much they're giving everyone 25% off Creepy Cute Crochet, and all the books at quirkbooks.com just use promotional code ETSY when you check out!"

Click to download the Fuzzy Alien How-To PDF:

Here's Christen with the inside scoop on her relationship to those fuzzy and crochety creatures:

Can you tell us a bit about your book and how you got the book deal?
Creepy Cute Crochet is a collection of toy patterns for characters that are, perhaps, not always well represented in the world of crochet. A place for crocheted zombies, amazons and ninjas to get their chance in the spotlight, if you will.

The book deal came about a year after I started selling patterns on Etsy. The folks at Quirk books had seen some of my earlier patterns and contacted me about doing a book of patterns in a similar vein.

What is an amigurumi? How did you first hear about them?
Well, if we want to be purists, amigurumi are crocheted toys made of single crochet stitches worked in spiral, usually with a sort of Japanese aesthetic. However, since the word "amigurumi" is just Japanese for knitted/crocheted stuffed toy, lots of people are a bit more inclusive about what counts as "amigurumi."

I think that I first started seeing amigurumi critters popping up online early in 2006. I remember having a lot of, "Hey, I could make that ...but, I'd totally make it a ____ instead!" moments.

What was the first amigurumi you made? Any tips for beginner crocheters?
Albino chibi squid. It's still one of the very few amigurumi projects that I've kept for myself.

As for advice for beginner crocheters, uh... fake it till you make it?

Your first few projects might be little bit shaky — particularly if you start out with difficult projects. Just stick with it, look up techniques frequently, and assume that you *will* figure it out eventually.

How did you get the idea for the book?
My characters borrow a little from gamer culture, and a little from internet memes, and a lot from stuff that I just think is cool. Basically, it all boils down to, "What do I think that people would enjoy making that isn't already well covered by someone else?"

Do you have any anecdotes about kids using your book?
One of the most exciting things about the book is the number of emails that I've recieved about kids learning to crochet in order to make their own creepy cute toys. I think that crocheted toys appeal to young crafters in a way that doilies and sweaters maybe don't, and they can provide a really nice opportunity for grown-up crafters to find enthusiastic students among their younger friends and relatives.

What is it about creepy cuteness that you like?
A little bit of dissonance can add punch to so many things. Adding just a suggestion of danger to otherwise totally cute and non-threatening designs makes people sit up and take a closer look, I think.

Crocheting patterns (and not just the finished items) seem to be selling well. Can you account for why this particular medium/technique/type of object works so well in this way?
It seems to be the accepted wisdom that patterns and craft supplies in general sell well on Etsy because most Etsians are crafters anyway, but I think that Etsy patterns also do well because they offer something a little bit more unusual (and convenient!) than the average mainstream brick-and-mortar craft store.

Anything else you'd like to add?
Creepy Cute Crochet is meant to be customized!

There are lots of places to share your own variations on the Creepy Cute projects:

The Creepy Cute Crochet Flickr Group
The Creepy Cute Crochet Craftster Crochetalong
Ravelry

Stay tuned for more projects and cuteness from the Handmade Kids series.

Handmade Kids Series | Special Kids Showcase | Baby Gift Guide | Children Gift Guide

Etsy in Action: Upcoming Events

2008-05-28T11:22:00-05:00

Check out what's next in Etsy-sponsored events...

Mark your calendars! Next Sunday, June 1, from 1-3pm, The Etsy Labs is hosting a free Brooklyn Tee Party! Meet young adult authors Rachel Maude, Lauren Mechling, Emily Gould and Zareen Jaffrey as they share readings from their latest books. Then, get hands-on with a DIY t-shirt reconstruction workshop from the designers of BurdaStyle and Compai.

Bring an old, oversized t-shirt with you to recycle and refashion. We'll show you how! (Fresh out of old tees? Not to worry, we'll have some spares.) Ages 12 and up welcome. Please RSVP to rsvp@etsy.com, as space is limited.

Not in Brooklyn? Join us online in the Library Room of the Virtual Labs, where we'll be broadcasting the event live.

Brought to you by Etsy.com, BurdaStyle.com, Compai, Delacorte Books, Little Brown, and Razorbill.

Hey, vendors! Looking for a new venue to sell at this summer? ...Shoppers: seeking out the lastest in art, healthy edibles, handbags, jewelry, accessories and antiques (...offline, that is)? Check out the Providence Open Market. Located on Westminster Street in the heart of downtown Providence, the Market features a different group of artists every week ensuring that each visit will be unique. Open for business Saturdays, starting May 31st and accepting vendor applications online now!

Saturday, May 31: If you're in the Chicago area, be sure to stop by the Indie Arts Market, showcasing over 30 up-and-coming local artists, selling paintings, jewelry, collages, sculpture, silkscreen prints, letterpress, zines, textiles, stationery and much more!

This one-day event will be held in the heart of Lakeview at Schubas Tavern, 3159 North Southport at the intersection of Southport and Belmont from 11am to 3pm.

See the gallery below for a sampling of Indie Arts Market and Providence Open Market vendors.