Search results (tags) for: "buttons"

How-Tuesday: Button-Down Shirt From Design-It-Yourself Clothes

2009-10-13T15:20:00-05:00

Trying on clothes in fitting rooms tends to be a less than inspiring experience. Puckering, pulling, shifting, and stretching — the garment quickly becomes an obstacle in itself. Cal Patch's book, Design-It-Yourself Clothes, is built on an inherently sensible premise: perfect fit comes from custom patterns. Cal's approach that every sewer deserves to empower herself through learning the craft of patternmaking, is both encouraging and liberating. Each project in this foundational manual builds upon the previous one, so a basic shirt turns into a jacket turns into a dress.

For this week's How-Tuesday, we're sharing the button-down shirt; I hope the skills you learn in creating this pattern will equip you for exploring the next frontier in your designs. Since this project is rich with information, I've included an excerpt below, but you can download the full how-to (for free!) as a PDF here.

Purchase Design-It-Yourself Clothes

Picture this: You're out shopping, maybe at your favorite vintage shop, maybe at a fancy designer boutique, and you see something familiar. Hmm. Where have you seen that dress before, you wonder. In a magazine? A movie? Oh wait, you remember! You've seen it in your dreams!

You try it on, and for a moment, you are enraptured: Life is complete! You will forevermore be the one envied at every party for what you are wearing. But then you do a reality check. The color, now that you are thinking clearly, doesn't suit you at all. The fabric is a little more synthetic than you'd like. The waist is actually too small, and wouldn't it be way dreamier with a wider, kimono-esque sleeve? And a different neckline? Not to mention longer, with more flare at the hemline, and some shirring at the bust? And again, you realize, this scenario is all too familiar: You know exactly what you want and you've got the sewing skills to pull it off, if only there weren't that one, teensy-weensy recurring problem: the pattern. Even the best seamstress needs one, but a pattern for the vision in your head just plain does not exist. Yet.

It's no secret that sewing is the new hot craft — more people are sewing now than ever before. Sooner or later, most stitchers want to tackle more advanced projects, namely clothing. This is where the trouble sets in. The problem isn't in the sewing, but in the pattern. Unfortunately, finding the perfect pattern for what you want to make can be anywhere from difficult to impossible. The sewing pattern industry, with a few noteworthy exceptions, doesn't seem to be quite in sync with the surge in modern sewers — sewers who want to make clothes that look like what they might buy at their favorite retailers.

The new generation of indie seamstresses is watching Project Runway, reading ReadyMade and Selvedge, and shopping at small boutiques selling one-offs by local designers. You know what you want to wear but can't always find it on a rack. You know how to sew but don't see patterns that resemble what you want to make. You do want to make a unique look based on your own personal taste, influences, and body type. And you need the freedom to create patterns as your taste evolves over time. What's an intrepid stitcher to do?

Well, the obvious answer is to learn how to make your own sewing patterns! Patternmaking is an age-old art form, which, at its core, is extremely simple. The clothing we currently wear tends to be relatively simple from a patternmaker's point of view. We don't wear finely tailored suits or dresses with princess seams, darts, and gussets. We wear simple knit tops, skirts, loose dresses, basic woven shirts, and pants. Their style tends to come from details, as opposed to dramatic or complicated cut and construction. Thus, it's quite possible to teach today's sewers how to make their own patterns. And this book does just that in a fun, concise volume for the modern girl.

There are other reasons, besides the lack of selection, to learn how to make patterns. For example, three little letters: F-I-T. Fit can make or break a look. Whether shopping for clothing or patterns, finding ones that fit is frequently a struggle. This is because clothing manufacturers can't possibly make clothes to fit every conceivable body height, width, shape, and every combination of those factors. So they aim for the middle ground and hope for the best. Commercial sewing patterns have the same problem, though they do offer the possibility of simple adjustments, like altering length or combining two sizes in different areas to approximate your body. But only building a pattern from scratch, around your own personal set of numbers, can ultimately result in a garment that fits like it was made for you. Because it was!

Basic Shirt

There's nothing more classic than a woven collared shirt. Whether it's a menswear-style button-down, a Western cowboy-inspired number, or a girly, ruffly blouse, woven shirts are infinitely versatile and wearable. Feel like making one? You've got lots of options for fabric: cotton shirtings, quilting prints, eyelet, voile, chambray, pinwale cord, really almost any light- to medium-weight woven will do!

Let's talk for just a minute about functional ease. Whereas a knit shirt can be exactly the same measurements as (or even smaller than) your body, woven shirts require a bit of breathing room. Because they don't stretch, woven fabrics can't move and bend with you the way knits do. So giving yourself a little space between your skin and the garment will allow you to reach, twist, laugh, and dance without fear of busting a stitch! Functional ease subsequently will be referred to as FE.

Measurements
Bust circumference + FE* (at the fullest point)
Waist circumference + FE*
Distance from HSP (High shoulder point) down to waist
Hip circumference + FE* (where you want the bottom of the shirt to be)
Length of shirt (HSP to hem)
Shoulder width + 1/4" FE**
Neck width**
Front neck drop
Sleeve length
Bicep circumference + 1/4" FE**
Wrist circumference + 1/4" FE**

*For each of these horizontal measurements, divide by four. These quarter measurements will be the ones you use for drafting the pattern. They will be referred to as quarter-bust, quarter-waist, and quarter-hip.

**Divide these measurements by two. These will be referred to as half-shoulder, half-neck, etc.

Determining your armhole measurement
When measuring the armhole of a garment, we usually just measure a straight line (even though the actual armhole is a curve) from the point where the shoulder seam intersects the sleeve, down to the point where the underarm seam meets the side seam. A standard armhole measurement for a medium-sized fitted T-shirt is about 7" to 7 1/2". To figure out what will be best for you, grab some favorite tops from your closet and measure the armholes. If they tend toward 6 1/2-7", go with 6 3/4", and likewise if they're bigger. Or if you know your shirts always feel as if they're pinching at the pits, or conversely if you usually feel as if you're swimming in them, add or subtract an inch accordingly. You'll fine-tune this once you make a muslin and try it on, so for now just take your best guess.

Determining your front neck drop and neck width
For this woven shirt we will be making a collar, and your neck drop and width will determine the placement of the seam where the collar is attached to the shirt. Therefore, the drop should be a fairly traditional placement, right at the base of your neck where your two clavicle bones meet. On me, that's at about 3 1/2" down from my high shoulder point (HSP). The width should be the distance between your two HSPs. On me, that's about 7". You can play around with more adventurous collars and seams when you've got a little more experience, but for now let's just keep it simple!

For the rest of this how-to, download the PDF here.

Looking for more patternmaking inspiration? Check out a copy of Design-It-Yourself Clothes to kick-start your new wardrobe. Thanks to Cal Patch and the good folks at Potter Craft for sharing this project with us.

More How-Tuesday Posts | Supplies Category | DIY Made Simple Gift Guide

Fresh Shops: Fine Craftsmanship from wookwoodworking

2008-09-18T13:13:00-05:00

Have you ever looked at the Showcase and been totally captivated by an item? I recently found a Fresh Shop called wookwoodworking, a relatively new shop that opened in May, by clicking on this table. Gorgeous!

The craftsmanship caught my eye and took my breath away, so I contacted the shop, and it turns out Alexandra Snook and Ed Way are the duo behind wookwoodworking. Recently married, the couple had met 9 years prior at SUNY Purchase while studying furniture design, and as Alexandra puts it, "Since we met I can honestly say that no piece has been solely mine or Ed's." One of them will come up with an idea, which then gets passed back and forth four or five times before the piece is completed. This obviously works for them — their furniture is refined but inventive.

Interestingly, wookwoodworking not only offers amazing, high end furniture, but also very affordable buttons and magnets, all made from sustainably harvested local wood — Cherry, Maple, Oak, Birch, and Apple. They also offer trivets, salad tongs, cutting boards, and jewelry at a variety of price points.

"Our background is based in one-of-a kind studio furniture pieces and architectural work, but we recently started doing craft fairs and markets, and realized how inaccessible custom woodworking generally is. The inordinate amount of time and materials that go into our furniture pieces make selling anything for a reasonable price (meaning anything we could afford) near impossible.

Taking all of this into consideration, and wishing to offer people pieces that express our vision and craftsmanship, we began to come up with price points and corresponding pieces."

Although the craftsmanship they put into their pieces is rooted in "old world" honest hard work and some classic designs, they "wouldn't describe [their] work as overly modern or overly traditional, but believe it lies somewhere between the two." Asian architecture gives them inspiration, as well as "natural and organic forms and textures. Our work often employs split turning which is the process of turning a piece of wood on a lathe and then splitting it afterward resulting in identical pieces."

They kiln-dry all of their tree buttons, which means they won't shrink, crack or warp as the wood ages. The attention to detail, even in their smaller pieces, inspires me to learn more about woodworking!

Read more Storque posts about wood | Browse the Woodworking Category | Find more Fresh Shops

Quit Your Day Job: kittycrossbones

2008-06-30T14:00:00-05:00

AmyLynn of kittycrossbones contacted me to let me know she has been successfully selling on Etsy full time and was able to quit her day job because of her success. She started selling on Etsy in her spare time between work and college by making custom promos for other Etsy sellers. Eventually AmyLynn found herself daydreaming about filling orders while at her day job and she could no longer keep up with her Etsy shop and continue her retail job at the same time. AmyLynn made a no-brainer decision for herself and took the plunge to "Etsy" full time; now she works from the time she wakes up until she goes to bed. In my mind, she is a wonderful example of someone who is young, smart, driven, and has been able to make Etsy work for her needs straight out of college.

When you first started selling on Etsy did you have dreams or goals of eventually quitting your day job?
When I first started selling on Etsy, I was using my button machines to make pre-made items, doing that in my spare time between work and college. I actually never thought of quitting my day job at the time. I thought that Etsy would be a great place to sell my wares for some extra spending money!

How long were you selling on Etsy and working your day job before deciding you were ready to switch over to Etsy full time?
I believe I was working and Etsying for about two years.

What made you decide to quit your day job?
I couldn’t keep up with my Etsy shop! I would much rather be selling on Etsy full-time then working the 9-5 retail job, that’s for sure!

How did you know you were ready to take the plunge?
I didn’t, actually! All I know is that when I was at my day job, I would daydream about being home and working on orders!

Did you do anything to prepare ahead of time before taking the plunge?
Actually, not really. I know that’s terrible but ... I was only 18 when I originally started Kittycrossbones and honestly didn’t think Kittycrossbones would turn out the way it has.

What goals have you set for your Etsy business in the next few months and year?
My goal is always to do better than the last month, or break even.

What are the most effective ways you have promoted and marketed your Etsy business?
Networking definitely! Here on Etsy, I use the chat and forums. I also have profiles on Myspace.com, Facebook.com, Flickr.com, IndiePublic.com, and there are a lot more social networking sites that I belong to on the Ning.com network. I also contribute to the Sampler 200+ category whenever I have the time.

How's it going so far, are you getting by?
Oh yes, I am! There are slow periods but then they are usually followed by big explosions of sales! I haven’t had to think of finding another job for almost a year and a half now!

Can you walk us through what a typical workday might entail now that you have quit your day job?
Sure! I wake up and then go to my computer and check my email. I check for convos and of course, sales! Waking up to sales is always the best! I then answer all of my convos and organize my email if I sold anything. I put the Etsy Transaction in a certain folder. I have “Need Images,” “Have Images,” “PayPal Payments,” “RME Payments,” and an “Images” folder. I then check to see if anybody has sent me images for their products and if they do, I put the e-mail in the “images” folder and then save their images in their own folder with their username. I then create a preview of what their products will look like in photoshop and email them back. Once I get the approval I start making their orders.

A typical production day is from the time I wake up, to the time I go to bed – and sometimes I pull all-nighters all the way into 5am completing orders!

What do you enjoy most about not having a day job?
That I can be my own boss and set my own hours. I can even work in my pajamas!

What piece of advice would you give someone thinking about taking the plunge to sell full time on Etsy?
It takes a lot of hard work and dedication, but it is definitely worth it! If you can't stop the sales fairy from visiting your store everyday and your Etsy store is getting in the way of your “real-life” job, pick Etsy!

Is there anything else you'd like to add?
I just want to thank Etsy for creating such a great e-commerce site. I have made a lot of friends here in the community – through chat and forums — and wish everybody the best of luck — whether you are here to sell full-time or for some extra spending money.

Thanks to AmyLynn for sharing her story of success with us! Check out the gallery below to see some of kittycrossbones' items. Check out some of our previous Quit Your Day Job posts.

Etsy Finds: Button Up

2008-05-18T10:44:00-05:00

Buttons! Veronicabuttons' shop is a treasure trove of handmade ceramic buttons, many with lacey prints or imagery of measuring tapes. Just gazing at the photos where the buttons look like tactile gems, I want to scoop them up and take them home with me! I know if I had a collection of her buttons, I would prominently display them like art objects and only dole them out for the most special of projects and garments. This set of oval buttons with a blue lace print would look lovely adorning a spring cardigan.

ps
Did you know that you can now search for supplies in the drop-down search on Etsy?

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Getting Started in Video: Pushing the Red Button

2008-05-06T20:19:00-05:00

You've got a video camera...what next?

The basic idea is to put something in front of the camera and push the red button, but there's a lot more. This video is just a few tips and tricks to get you on your way. The main thing is to just start making videos and then each one will get better and better.

If you're going to go handheld, you can improve your stability by holding your elbows in. A tripod will keep the camera steady. If possible have the camera at eyeline or above because people just look more beautiful from above. You don't need to see up my nose.

Jump cuts are when you see lots of cuts without a change in camera position. I use these a lot. It also helps to plan some things out. I make a bullet list of things that I want to make sure I say. When working with other people, I find it's easier to ask them to talk about a list of topics rather than memorize things.

Don't be afraid to shoot it again and again and again. A few people called in today and I'm going to respond to their questions in future videos. If you've got tips for shooting video, leave a note in the comments or leave me a voicemail at 917-720-4197 and I might post your message in a future post!

I also made a video about videos with the Bill and Justin over at Blip.tv headquarters. They have a great video show about the people and shows on blip.tv called "Blip on Blip." Check it out!

Etsy Finds: Buttons

2008-04-09T10:34:00-05:00

Good morning! This Etsy Find is in celebration of handmade buttons. When you're searching for crafting materials to inspire or complete your project, don't overlook the handmade supply category on Etsy.

Today in history: U.S. votes in 1867 to purchase Alaska from Russia. Today is also Cheeta the Chimp's birthday. Two more excuses to leave work early and party. Except, don't give those as your actual excuses. (Because then you will look like a big weirdo.) Okay, onward to Finds!

Chrysanthemum Button

Sculpted and hand cast in lead-free pewter. By mamcitabeadworks $4.
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Mail and Postal Sew On Buttons

I think these acrylic beauties may be made of shrink plastic, which is such a great idea. Check out the rest of niku's shop for more tiny picture buttons. $5.50.

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Sterling Silver Button - Machine

Another showpiece single button, in silver with a basketweave pattern. By Spincus, $12.

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1/2" Fabric Covered Buttons

These sweet floral buttons would be great on a crochet toddler sweater. By heatherknitz, $2.70.

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Cotton Candy Pink Pottery Button

Mudcakes's buttons are wonderful, but I have to confess I'm obsessed with the different little pictures she photographs her items in front of. They're sort of tiny artworks in themselves. $3.

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Weathered Green Handmade Ceramic Shank Buttons

Try popping the old buttons off a sweater, and adding new ones in a bright color (like these by panopoly, $16) to give it an instant spring update, $16.

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Handmade, Hand Painted White Stoneware Button, Big and Beautiful

I love these handpainted buttons by sumiko, $9.

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Spring Knitted Buttons

These are basically the most incredible buttons I've ever seen in my life. And I would pretty much put a copy of that item's photograph on my wall. By knitastic, 30.

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Matching Red and Blue Lampwork Buttons

These are great. I feel like they would really cuten up a vintage blouse (like this one in ramonawest's shop). By hmbstudios shop, $15.

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xo, Anda

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Etsy Finds: Button Storyboard

2007-09-08T02:37:00-05:00

My house and desk (and life) are full of buttons. Buttons, buttons everywhere. When I found these amazing button "storyboards" my heart skipped a beat. I can turn all my buttons into sweet mod art to hang on my walls? Brilliant! ButtonCollective rocks this idea with all different variations in sizes and colors. She even has a limited edition single button storyboard that went out in The Sampler this month!

Etsy How-To: Make a Pinback Button

2007-03-23T20:00:00-05:00

Anda walks us through making pinback buttons. Brought to you by the good people of the Etsy Labs.