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How-Tuesday: Gingerbread Man Puppets From Felting for Baby

2009-12-08T15:50:00-05:00

Craft projects provide ample opportunities to spend time with your family and build anticipation for the holiday in the weeks leading up to Christmas. The sound of slippered little feet scrambling down the stairs will be irresistible! Saori Yamazaki's Felting for Baby offers beautiful inspiration to create everything soft and warm your baby needs. For this week's How-Tuesday, Saori shares the fundamentals of felting three-dimensional forms along with her pattern for Gingerbread Man Puppets to get your baby's first Christmas started off just right.

Purchase Felting for Baby from Amazon or an independent bookseller

Felt work involves taking fluffy wool fibers and working with them until the fabric is just the way you like. The items you can make vary widely, and there's no limit to what you can do with your ideas: making cute accessories, practical bags, and items for everyday life.

Making something by hand for someone else is a lot of fun, but a special joy is found in making something for a tiny, tiny baby. For example, if you're making booties, you can't help thinking of the cute little feet that you are making them for, and you find yourself smiling. A regular population explosion has been happening among my friends in recent years, and even though I enjoy buying baby gifts in a store, most of the time, my friends expect something handmade. At times like that, I get excited about making something.

I'm confident that my friends are pleased with the warmth of fine handmade felt items. I'd like all of you to try your hand at making felt items, too, whether for an infant, for someone else, or even for yourself.

Getting Started

The basic principle behind felt work is taking fluffy, raw wool fibers and intertwining them to create a stable form. This process is the act of felting. Wet Felting: In this technique, you take a small amount of liquid detergent, add it to hot water (this mixture is referred to simply as hot, soapy water in this book), moisten the wool fibers with it, and push and rub the fibers into shape. The chemical properties and heat of the liquid detergent, and the vibration and friction from your hands, cause the wool fibers to entwine and mat evenly, resulting in a smooth, strong fabric. This efficient technique is appropriate for making sheets of felt or felt with a lot of volume.

Tools and Materials:
The main type of wool used in this book is known as roving, which is raw wool that has been cleaned, carded, and gathered into long strips.

Shallow Basin: A shallow basin or container of some kind is useful when making a sheet of felt as it helps to contain the water used in the felting process. Alternately, you can use the kitchen sink.

Hot, Soapy Water: Add 3 or 4 drops of dishwashing detergent to about 1 quart of hot water. Adjust the amount so that it will foam slightly when you apply it to the wool, and rub. The hotter the water is, the faster the felting process will occur. Lukewarm or cold water takes more time.

Watering Can: Use this to sprinkle the carded wool lightly with hot, soapy water so that it doesn't separate. A spray bottle also works.

Waterproof Pattern Paper: Make patterns for your projects from a material that will not lose its shape when wet. Plastic sheeting and bubble wrap work well, but you can use the coated cardboard from milk cartons, too.

Wooden Dowel: You can advance the felting process by wrapping the wool around a wooden dowel or rolling pin. The larger your project is, the thicker the rolling pin should be.

How to Make Bag-Shaped and Three-Dimensional Forms

1. Arrange Side A
Take about 1 ounce of wool and divide it into eight equal strands. Make two layers, one horizontal and one vertical, on the pattern paper, using one strand of wool per layer. Even out the area, and spread out the wool so that it's a bit larger than the pattern area. (I refer to the front of the bag as side A and the back as side B.) Apply hot, soapy water to the two layers of wool and work it in thoroughly with your hands.

2. Work Side A
Turn the whole project over, along with the pattern paper. (If the piece is large, remove the pattern paper before turning it over and then replace it on the new top side.) If any of the fibers are sticking out, fold them over the pattern paper and work the edges and corners thoroughly.

3. Arrange Side B
Make two layers, one horizontal and one vertical, on another piece of pattern paper, using one strand of wool per layer. Then place side B on top of side A, pattern papers together.

4. Work Side B
Work the surface of side B with hot, soapy water, then turn the whole project over again. Turn it gently to make sure that the part you worked doesn't come apart or tear away.

5. Make a Bag Shape
As in step 2, fold over any wool fibers that stick out. Repeat steps 1 through 4 on both sides so that both sides have four layers of wool each.

6. Continue Felting
Put plastic bags over both hands, and start rubbing the felt in circular motions around the center, first gently, and then with more force. You can increase the pressure by pressing with the very tips of your fingers. Be sure to work the edges and corners thoroughly.

7. Pinch Test
Pinch a bit of the surface to see whether the fibers are firmly intertwined. (Be sure to check both side A and side B.) If the fibers come lose or break off, then the felting process is incomplete; repeat step 6.

8. Cut an Opening
Use scissors to cut an opening on the side that will be the mouth of the bag. (You'll felt the cult in step 11 to strengthen it.)

9. Remove the Pattern Paper
Slide the pattern papers out. Because the felting process is not yet complete on the inside of the bag, hold the bag carefully so that the insides don't stick to each other.

10. Turn It Right Side Out
Turn the bag right side out, taking care not to tear or stretch any of the felted fibers.

11. Felt the Edges and Opening
Flatten out the side edges of the bag and carefully rub and work them so that they felt. Since the opening cut in step 8 may be weak, work it for a while so that it's straight and sturdy.

12. Roll Up All Sides From Four Directions
Use a wooden dowel to roll up both side A and side B from the top, bottom, right, and left. Each time you unroll the felt, smooth out the wrinkles. If it starts to dry out, apply a little more hot, soapy water. Repeat this step until the whole piece has shrunk evenly and to the desired dimensions.

13. Shape the Bottom
Fold the bottom so that it's like a paper grocery bag, and rub and work it to form and stabilize the shape. Do the same with both side A and side B.

14. Make It Three-Dimensional
Stand the bag up, insert your hand, and flatten the inside bottom. Consider the proportions of the entire bag as you carefully felt the interior sides, angles, and opening, so that no distorted or uneven surfaces remain.

15. Adjust the Opening
Adjust the opening so that the bag is a uniform height. Apply some more hot, soapy water to the cut edges of the opening and work it in.

16. Stabilize the Shape
Rinse the bag in lukewarm water and briefly run it through the spin cycle of a washing machine. Stabilize the shape by ironing it, using a towel to keep the bag's shape.

17. Finishing
Let the felt dry naturally, and you will end up with the main body of a bag.

Finished Size 5 1/2" x 9 1/2"

Materials:
Wool for the main body: Natural or camel, 1 ounce
Wool for the face and buttons: Brown, small amounts

Instructions:
1. Divide the wool for the main body into eight parts.

2. Cut out a piece of pattern paper (download pattern here). Felt four layers of wool on both sides of the pattern paper to make a bag shape.

3. Cut an opening across the bottom, remove the pattern paper, and turn the puppet right side out. (Carefully use a rod to turn the arms and neck inside out.) Felt the puppet by rolling it up from all sides until it reaches the size indicated in the diagram.

4. Rinse and spin the puppet, iron it, and let it dry naturally.

5. Put a sponge inside the puppet and use a needle to felt the face and buttons onto the puppet.

Thanks to Saori Yamazaki and the good folks at Trumpeter Publishing for sharing this project with us. For more sweet wool, check out Felting for Baby.

More How-Tuesday Posts | Supplies Category | The Do-It-Yourselfer Gift Guide

How-Tuesday: Frog Suit From Wacky Baby Knits

2009-09-29T15:00:00-05:00

Well, I'm not sure I really need to say anything once you've seen this baby in a frog suit. The cutie patootie inspires me not only to knit, but to reproduce. Since Halloween is only a month away, we picked this week's How-Tuesday according to our early childhood indoctrination program. Alison Jenkins' lovable and cuddly creations introduce your toddler to a lifetime of handmade costumes. You can download the project as a PDF here, or follow along below.

Alison's book, Wacky Baby Knits, has projects to suit any baby's style. With knitted mohawks, biker jackets, and monsters, I think I could find reasons year-round to play dress-up with the little ones. Can't get enough of the gleeful masquerade of children? Cast a vote for your favorite Etsy Halloween kids item here!

Purchase Wacky Baby Knits

One of the many joys of having babies is that you can dress them up in any way you choose. Sadly, this state of affairs is temporary: in a few short years they will have as many opinions about what they will and won't wear as you do. Try getting a three-year-old to wear a cute cow suit if he or she doesn't want to! Take full advantage of the opportunity while it lasts, using this book as your guide and inspiration.

This all-in-one outfit will keep baby snug as a bug — or amphibian — in a rug from head to toe, and the hood even has soft knitted frog eyes. Rows of knitted bobbles along the sleeves and hood add an irresistible tactile texture to the knit, but because the yarn used is very soft the bobbles won't feel lumpy against your baby's skin.

You Will Need
Pair of size 3 (3.25mm) needles
Pair of size 6 (4mm) needles
Size 3 (3.25mm) circular needle
5 (6:7) 2 oz (50g) balls light worsted knitting yarn in color A (green)
Oddment of light worsted knitting yarn in color B (white)
Oddment of light worsted knitting yarn in color C (black)
Tape measure
Stitch holders
Bodkin
17 small green buttons
Small amount of soft toy filling, approximately 1/2 oz (15g)

To Fit Sizes
0-3 months: chest 16 in (41cm)
3-6 months: chest 8 in (46cm)
6-12 months: chest 20 in (51cm)

Gauge
22 stitches and 30 rows to 4 in (10cm), mesured over stockinette stitch, using size 6 (4mm) needles

Special Abbreviation
mb — make bobble
Work to bobble position; purl into the next stitch, then knit into the same stitch. Repeat once more, then purl once. You will have made five extra stitches. Use the tip of the left-hand needle to pass the first four extra stitches over the last to form the looped bobble. Work to next bobble position, and repeat.

Back

LEGS (MAKE 2 ALIKE)
Using size 3 (3.25mm) needles and col A, cast on 16 (16:18) sts.
Work in k 1, p 1 rib for 1 1/4 in (3cm), ending with a rs row.
Increase row with ws facing: rib 4 (2:3), then *m 1, rib 1 st; rep from * to last 3 (2:2) sts, m 1, then rib to end. (26 [29:32] sts.)
Change to size 6 (4mm) needles, and cont in st st until work measures 8 (8 3/4:9 1/2) in [20 (22:24)cm] from cast-on edge, ending with a ws row.
Transfer sts to a stitch holder.

BODY
Join legs to form body: work across sts from one leg, then work sts held on stitch holder from the other leg.
Cont in st st on these 52 (58:64) sts until work measures 8 1/2 (9:9 1/2) in [22(23:24)cm] from the crotch join, ending with a ws row.

RAGLAN DECREASE
Bind off 3 sts at beg of next 2 (2:2) rows **, then dec 1 st at both ends of next and every alt row until there are 18 (20:22) sts, ending with a ws row.
Leave sts on a stitch holder.

Front

Work as back to **.

DIVIDE FOR FRONT OPENING
With rs facing, begin raglan shaping as follows: dec 1 st, knit 18 (21:24) sts, turn, and place the rem sts on a stitch holder. Work 1 row in st st. Cont dec 1 st at same end of next and every alt row until there are 11 (12:15) sts.
Work 1 row in st st.

NECKLINE SHAPING
With rs facing, dec 1 st, work to last 2 sts, dec 1 st. Dec 1 st at neck edge of next 3 (4:5) rows, while continuing the raglan shaping at the armhole edge. There are now 5 (4:6) sts. Dec 1 st at armhole edge only on rs rows until 2 sts rem.
Place rem 2 sts on a stitch holder:
Slip the sts for the right front from the stitch holder onto your needle, and rejoin col A.
Bind off the first 6 sts, then cont following pattern instructions to make the right front section, remembering to reverse the raglan and neckline shapings.
Place rem 2 sts on a stitch holder.

Sleeve (make 2 alike)

Using size 3 (3.25mm) needles and col A, cast on 26 (29:31) sts.
Work in k 1, p 1 rib for 1 1/4 in (3cm) ending with a rs row.

INCREASE ROW WITH WS FACING
First size: rib 3, then *m 1, rib 3; rep from * to last 2 sts, inc 1 st, then rib to end. (34 sts.)
Second and third sizes: rib (3:4), *inc 1 st, rib 3; rep from * to last (2:3) sts, inc 1 st, rib to end.
There are now 34 (38:40) sts. Change to size 6 (4mm) needles and begin patt as follows:
Cont in st st for 4 rows.
Next row (bobble row): with rs facing, work 4 (6:7) sts *mb, work 4 sts; rep from * to last 0 (2:3) sts, k0 (2:3).
Work 5 rows, then work bobble row, keeping bobbles in same position vertically.
Cont in patt.
Inc 1 st at both ends of 2nd (2nd:2nd) row, then at both ends of every foll 6th (10th:10th) row until you have 40 (44:48) sts. Work 5 (7:9) rows.

RAGLAN DECREASE
Bind off 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows, then dec 1 st at both ends of next and every alt row until 6 sts remain.
Leave rem 6 sts on stitch holder.

Hood

With rs facing, using size 6 (4mm) needles and col A, pick up and knit 10 (12:14) sts up right front neck, k across sts on front and first sleeve stitch holders, across back neck work *k 1, m 1; rep from * to last st, k 1, k across sts on second sleeve and front stitch holders, then pick up and k10 (12:14) sts down left front neck. (71 [79:87] sts.)
Purl 1 row.
Cont in st st until hood measures 7 (7 1/2:8) in [18(19:20)cm], ending with a ws row, then bind off 22 (26:30) sts at beg of next 2 rows.
With rs facing, cont on rem sts and patt as follows:
Cont in st st for 4 rows.
Next row: with rs facing, work 3 (3:4) sts *mb, work 4 sts; rep from * to last 4 (4:4) sts, mb, work to end.
Work 5 rows, then work bobble row, keeping bobbles in same position vertically.
Cont in patt for a further 4 1/4 (5 1/4:6) in [11 (13:15)cm], ending with a ws row.
Bind off all sts, and fasten off securely.
Using a bodkin and col A, join hood seams.

Button band and buttonhole band for front opening and hood

Using a size 3 (3.25mm) circular needle, pick up and knit 17 (19:19) sts along right front opening to neck, then 42 (46:50) sts along right side of hood to seam, 27 (27:27) sts across hood center front to other seam, 42 (46:50) sts down left side of hood, and 17 (19:19) sts along left front opening.
Work in k 1, p 1 rib for 3 rows.
Buttonhole row: Rib 3 sts, *ym, k2tog, rib 4; rep from * another 2 times, then rib to end.
Rib for 3 more rows, then bind off all sts in rib, and fasten off securely.

Button band and buttonhold band for leg opening

BUTTON BAND
With rs facing, using size 3 (3.25mm) needles and col A, pick up and knit 45 (51:57) sts evenly along inside leg edge of back to crotch, beg at the ankle rib of the left leg then pick up and knit 46 (52:58) sts from crotch to the edge of the right ankle rib. Work in k 1, p 1 rib for 7 rows, then bind off all sts in rib and fasten off securely.

BUTTONHOLE BAND
With rs facing, using size 3 (3.25mm) needles and col A, pick up and knit 45 (51:57) sts evenly along inside leg edge of front to crotch, beg at the ankle rib of the right leg, then pick up and knit 46 (52:58) sts from crotch down to the edge of the left ankle rib. Work in rib for 3 rows.
Buttonhole row: Rib 4, *ym, k2tog, rib 5 (6:7); 3 more rows, then bind off all sts in rib, and fasten off securely.

Eyes and eyelids (make 2 of each)

Using size 3 (3.25mm) needles and col A for eyelids (col B for eyes), cast on 18 (24:30) sts. Purl 1 row, then cont in st st for 6 (10:12) rows.
Next row: *k 1, k2tog; rep from * to end. Break off yarn, then draw it through the rem sts, pull together tightly, and fasten off securely.

Nostrils (make 2)

Using size 3 (3.25mm) needles and col A, cast on 15 (18:21) sts.
Purl 1 row, then cont in st st for 6 (8:10) rows.
Next row: *k 1, k2tog; rep from * to end. Break off yarn, then draw it through rem sts, pull together tightly, and fasten off securely.

Sewing together

Join raglan, sleeve and side seams. Weave in all loose ends neatly on the reverse.
Overlap the bands and sew the lower edges to the bound-off edge at the center front opening.
Sew buttons onto lower left front side of button band to correspond with buttonholes.

SEWING TOGETHER EYES AND EYELIDS
Join eye seam, and stuff each with a small amount of toy filling. Sew the cast-on edges to the hood at the end of the seam near the crown. Take an eyelid, and wrap it around the back part of the eye, so that the cast-on edge forms the lid around the eye. Sew the other edge to the hood around the base of the eye.

SEWING TOGETHER NOSTRILS
The cast-on edge represents the opening of each nostril; sew the other edge to the hood close to the seams at the front.
Weave in all loose ends neatly on the reverse. Finally, use a small amount of yarn in col C to make large stitches at the front of each eyeball to represent pupils.

Looking for more knitted baby costumes? Check out a copy of Wacky Baby Knits for the cutest inspiration you'll ever need. Thanks to Alison Jenkins and the good folks at Perigee for sharing this project with us.

More How-Tuesday Posts | Supplies Category | DIY Made Simple Gift Guide

How-Tuesday: Art and Hooks Rack from Handmade Home

2009-08-18T15:20:00-05:00

When I was growing up, my favorite spot in our house was the arts and crafts room. A tiny space sized just for my sisters and me, we could be as messy as we wanted in this place for creativity. Amanda Blake Soule of SouleMama whom we interviewed last summer in this post, has just come out with her second book, Handmade Home. Filled with inspiring family stories, rustic DIY projects, and resourceful tips for keeping your home comfortable, eco-friendly, and crafty, Handmade Home makes me want to gather little ones with crayons and redesign every houseware and decoration. For this week's How-Tuesday project, we're sharing Amanda's Art and Hook Rack, a delightfully practical way to display your child's chef d'oeuvres.

Purchase Handmade Home

Most of the things I make are for my family and our family home. Home, is our primary place of comfort, nourishment, love, and soul. Home is our place of peace and comfort both for us and for our children. Filling my home with items I've made by hand — that have, in effect, been infused with love in their making — is one of the ways I show those closest to me how very much I love them. Sprinkling some handmade creations through our home makes it a truly unique representation of who we are. Looking around at the things in our home, I can see who we are, what we value, and how we spend our time. These furnishings become comfort, peace, and the landscape in which our family grows, learns, and loves together.

Blessed by both the history and materials of generations past together with our modern knowledge, awareness, and options, we have a beautiful opportunity at this point in time to make a change in our lives. In a world of increasingly limited earthly resources, it is true that all of our decisions — small and large — have a powerful impact. Our small actions can improve not only our earth, but also our hearts, our spirits, and our children — and bring about the kind of change that is the most powerful, the most heartfelt, and the most personal. Our role in living a greener life for our children and ourselves can begin to reverse some of the damage we have done to the earth and provide a bit of healing for it and ourselves, while at the very same time, providing a home life that is richer in heart, soul, history, and hope for the future. If it is true that peace begins at home, as I believe it does, this change might even reach beyond the walls of our family homes.

In my home — and I'm quite sure in yours, too — there is no shortage of children's artwork. Also in my home, there is no shortage of bags, hats, sweaters, and other things that require hanging. This project is a great way to do something special with all that artwork we love, while also creating a place to hang all the many things that go along with family life at home. It's a little bit of art and function together in one versatile piece that your little ones — and you — will love.

Pattern Details
Intermediate
A day project
Suitable for little hands
Finished size: 24 1/2" x 12" x 1"

Use What You Have
This project calls for a piece of hardwood. Found wood, scrap wood, or salvaged wood is perfect for this project. The wood panel can be any size you desire. A smooth surface that will hold paint and glue well is the only essential. The panel should be at least 1/2" in thickness to accommodate the screws.

Materials
Wood panel: 1 found, scrap, repurposed, or salvaged panel of wood in any size
3-6 hooks or knobs depending on the size of your wood panel
Sandpaper
1 quart of water-based paint
Paintbrush
Ribbon or embroidered trim, the length of your wood panel
Children's artwork
Decoupage glue
Paintbrush for glue
Hot glue or any other kind of heavy-duty glue
Self-leveling saw tooth hangers and nails (for hanging the finished rack)
Screwdriver
Hammer

1. Prepare Materials

Gather all materials and cut the wood to the desired size. If necessary, use sandpaper to even out any rough spots.

2. Decorate Wood Panel

Paint the entire piece of wood — front, back, and all sides. Let the paint dry. Apply a second coat, if desired.

Determine the placement of the artwork, ribbon, and hooks by using the size of the artwork as a guide. Lay the artwork on the panel, and then measure and mark a straight line where you want to place the ribbon that will separate the art and the hooks.

Adjust the artwork on the board as desired, cutting the artwork as needed. Once you've decided on the layout of the artwork, begin to apply the artwork to the panel. With a paintbrush, apply a thin layer of glue to the back of the art. Place it on the panel, and smooth out any wrinkles. Repeat this process for each piece of artwork until the top portion of the panel is covered from the pencil line to the top of the board and across. Apply one final layer of glue over the entire top half of the panel. Let the glue dry.

3. Attach Ribbon

Place the ribbon over the pencil mark, covering the edges of the artwork. Wrap the ribbon around the edges of the wood panel about 1/2" onto the back. Attach by adhering glue to the backside, and placing ribbon in place firmly. Let the glue dry.

4. Finish Art and Hooks Rack

Turn the board over so the back is facing up. Position hangers where desired, and attach them with nails. On the front of the board, arrange the hooks and then use a pencil to mark their placement. Screw the hooks to the board as marked.

Hang your rack on a wall, being sure to secure it safely in a stud or with sheetrock screws.

Earthy Tip
Instead of using traditional commercial paint products, search out a green option. Milk Paint is an environmentally safe and nontoxic alternative to common acrylic or latex paints. Made the old-fashioned way with crushed limestone, this natural paint is an inexpensive, durable, and safe option. Milk Paint also has more variation in color, lending itself well to do-it-yourself projects like this one.

Thanks to Amanda Blake Soule and the good folks at Trumpeter Publishing for sharing this project with us.

More How-Tuesday Posts | Supplies Category | DIY Made Simple Gift Guide

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How-Tuesday: Smocked Sundress from Weekend Sewing

2009-08-11T16:06:00-05:00

I particularly love craft passed down through generations; every time I use my grandmother's heavy green metal sewing machine, I imagine channeling the DIY genes through my fingertips. Heather Ross's vibrant book, Weekend Sewing, not only inspires blissful projects like hostess aprons, garden gloves, and baby bloomers, but it also focuses on taking time out of the daily grind to relish the simple joys of sewing. For this week's How-Tuesday project, we're sharing Heather's Smocked Sundress along with some useful tips for sewing with children. You can download the PDF here or follow along below, courtesy of STC Craft/A Melanie Falick Book.

Purchase Weekend Sewing

As a child, I lived with my mom and twin sister in a one-room schoolhouse in the mountains of Northern Vermont. My daily routine was guided by the light and the seasons because — aside from school — there really was nowhere else to be. Our property was bordered by a rushing river that tumbled into a tall waterfall and ended in a deep and perfect swimming hole. Whenever we could, my sister and I would swim and explore the woods and orchards around our house, but when the long, dark winters drove us inside, we would spend countless hours executing elaborate craft projects.

These days, I live in New York City, a place that is ruled by the clock. My life as an artist and designer of fabric and clothing requires me to be accessible, punctual, and dressed appropriately (which means shoes, even in the summertime!). From Monday morning through Friday afternoon, my life is generally about deadlines and timelines and bottom lines. Often, it is only during weekends and holidays — and those few work days when I sneak away and play hooky — that I can take time out to sew for pure pleasure. I think of this as "weekend sewing." Logical as it may seem, for me weekend sewing is not limited to Saturday and Sunday. Rather, I consider it to be any time I am able to immerse so fully in the joy of sewing that I lose track of time and even myself, just like I did as a child. It is my hope that with Weekend Sewing, this book, I will inspire you to steal some time from your busy life for this simple joy — whether sewing for you is a newfound passion or a lifelong friend.

Sewing with Children

In my home studio, I keep a small basket filled with wool scraps, buttons, and various trims. If young guests express an interest in sewing, I help them make a small stuffed toy to take home.

Children aged 5 and up can learn the basics of sewing using simplified tools: try threading embroidery thread through the large eye of a plastic children's sewing needle (these are not too sharp and are easy for small hands to grasp), and practice making simple stitches together on scraps cut from an old sweater. When a child has mastered a basic running stitch and expresses a desire to sew seams more quickly than can be managed by hand, they are ready to be introduced to a sewing machine.

In recent years, a good number of children's sewing machines have become available. Try www.hearthsong.com for wonderful new sewing machines (not toys; these are real machines!) and projects designed for kids. Many people collect vintage children's sewing machines, which are beautiful and fun to use. Some of these vintage machines are operated by hand crank, which can be a bit tedious but gives good control over speed. It can be fun to work together on a hand-crank machine, with one person cranking the wheel while the other guides the fabric.

My students at Purl Patchwork in New York City love this dress, in part, I'm sure, because it only takes an hour or so to make. (I actually whipped one up on the morning of my wedding for my cousin's daughter to wear as my flower girl.) The real beauty of this dress is its shape and fit. It's a great summer standby — casual made in quilting cotton and a little dressier made in linen or printed chiffon. It will fit for more summers than most cotton dresses, due to its stretchy nature and the fact that, in a pinch, it can work as a skirt. You can also extend its life by making it with shoulder straps that tie and can be easily adjusted or by leaving off the straps on the back of this dress, then tying the front straps, halter-style, around the wearer's neck.

Finished Dimensions
Fits 12 months-size 4 (instructions are given for 12-month size, with measurements for size 4 included in parentheses)

Materials
3/4 yard of 45"-wide quilting cotton or lightweight woven fabric, pre-washed (fabric should be lightweight enough to yield to elastic thread)
All-purpose thread to match fabric
Elastic thread wound around an extra bobbin
Water-soluble fabric-marking pen
Transparent quilter's ruler or straightedge
Measuring tape
2 yards of spaghetti strap, bias tape (sewn closed), or ribbon for ties, cut into four equal lengths

Sewing Instructions

1. Press Fabric's Top Edge
With the fabric wrong side up, turn and press the top raw edge 1/4" to the wrong side, and then turn and press this edge again 1/4" to the wrong side. Do not sew this folded edge yet; the pressed lines will be important guides later on. Unfold this edge, and lay the fabric flat.

2. Mark Smocking Lines
With the fabric right side up, use the water-soluble pen and the quilter's ruler or straightedge to draw six (eight) straight lines, each 1/2" apart, across the fabric's width, beginning 1" below the fabric's top edge.

3. Sew Smocking
With elastic thread in your bobbin and the fabric right side up, sew along your marked lines to create six (eight) rows of elasticized smocking. Backstitch or lockstitch at the beginning and end of each row to secure the stitching, and cut the thread before starting each new row. Now you have a panel with elastic smocking across the top.

4. Measure and Trim Smocked Panel
Using a spray bottle filled with water, generously dampen your "smocked" stitches. With a very hot iron set on steam and cotton, press the smocked area flat. You'll notice that the elastic "shrinks up" nicely and that your water-soluble pen marks disappear.

Using a measuring tape, take the chest measurement of the child you're sewing for, and with a water-soluble marker, mark the line from top of dress to hem. Before cutting the panel, secure the elastic threads by stitching across them at your chest measurement with a short, closely spaced straight stitch. Then trim off the marked, excess portion of your panel.

5. Sew and Turn Smocked Panel
Fold the smocked panel with the fabric's right sides together, align the cut edges, and sew these edges together with a medium-width and -length zigzag stitch.

Turn panel right side out, press seam flat (with the seam allowances pressed to one side), and topstitch the seam allowances in place by stitching 1/4" from the seam. This seam now marks the center back of your dress.

6. Mark Strap Positions
Without stretching the smocking, measure 2" from the center-back seam in each direction, and mark these two points with your water-soluble pen. Then measure 6" from each marked point toward the center front of the dress, and mark two more points. These points mark where you'll attach the sundress's four straps.

Turn under the dress's top edge along the pressed creases, tucking the end of one strap underneath the folded edge at each marked point. Fold each strap up, as shown, and press the strap in place before edge-stitching the entire folded edge and the straps in place. Knot the other end of the straps to finish them.

7. Hem Dress
Determine the dress's hem length by measuring the wearer from her underarm to just below her knee, and add 1" to this measurement for the hem itself. Measure and trim the dress to this length. Turn and press the dress's bottom raw edge 1/4" to the wrong side, and then turn and press this edge again, this time 3/4" to the wrong side. Finally edge-stitch the double-fold to finish your hem, backstitching at the beginning and end of your stitching.

Think this dress would be just as cute for Mom? Find the adult version of this pattern on Heather's blog! Thanks to Heather Ross and the good folks at Stewart Tabori & Chang for sharing this project with us.

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How-Tuesday: Make a Stella Pixie Hat

2009-06-09T14:33:00-05:00

Are you a knitter with a baby in your life? Need a sweet little project to keep your hands busy during the summer months? Or if you're one of our Southern Hemisphere friends, you're in luck! Download the complete project instructions here, or follow along below, courtesy of Vintage Baby Knits by Kristen Rengren.

In the 1940s and 1950s pointy "pixie" hats were all the rage for babies. For this 1944 version, a knitted rectangle is folded in half and grafted together, then a strap is added along the bottom to secure the hat firmly on baby's head. I selected a soft, springy wool sock yarn for this project. I often choose sock yarn for baby clothes because it is durable, washable, and soft, and because it knits up in the finer gauges that are so common in vintage patterns.

Sizes
3-12 (12-24) months
Shown in size 3-12 months.

Finished Measurements
Approximately 13 (13 3/4)" [33 (35) cm] as base of neck, buttoned
8 3/4 (9 1/2)" [22 (24) cm] to highest point, at back of Hat
Note: Choose the appropriate size based on the height of the hat. You can adjust the fit of the neckband if necessary.

Yarn
Blue Moon Fiber Arts Socks that Rock
Medium weight (100% superwash Merino wool; 380 yards [347 meters] / 155 grams): 1 hank Coral

Needles
One pair straight needles size US 3 (3.25 mm)
Spare needle size US 3 (3.25 mm) or smaller, for Kitchener Stitch
Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

Notions
One 11/16" (15 mm) buttons

Gauge
36 sts and 36 rows= 4" (10 cm) in 2x2 Rib

Notes
This hat is very easy to size up or down from the sizes given. Simply add or subtract sts in a multiple of 4 and work the crosswise ridges as instructed until you have only 2 sts in ribbing at the center of the Hat. Then complete the Hat as instructed. When sizing, keep in mind that for every 4 sts you add or subtract, you will also add or subtract 1/3" (8 mm) to the height of the Hat, in order to complete the crosswise ridges.

Stitch Patterns
2x2 Rib (multiple of 4 sts + 2; 1-row repeat)
Row 1 (RS): K2, *p2, k2; repeat from * to end.
Row 2: Knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts as they face you.
Repeat Row 2 for 2x2 Rib.

1x1 Rib (multiple of 2 sts; 1-row repeat)
All rows: *K1, p1; repeat from * to end.

Hat
CO 98 (106) sts. Begin 2x2 Rib.
Work even for 4 rows.

Shape Hat
Row 1 (RS): K6, work in 2x2 Rib to last 6 sts, knit to end.
Row 2: Knit the knot sts and purl the purl sts as they face you.
Row 3: Repeat Row 1.
Row 4: K8, work to last 8 sts, knit to end.
Row 5: Repeat Row 2.
Row 6: Repeat Row 4.
Row 7: K10, work to last 10 sts, knit to end.
Row 8: Repeat Row 2.
Row 9: Repeat Row 7.
Row 10: K12, work to last 12 sts, knit to end.
Row 11: Repeat Row 2.
Row 12: Repeat Row 10.
Row 13: K14, work to last 14 sts, knit to end.
Row 14: Repeat Row 2.
Row 15: Repeat Row 13.
Row 16: K16, work to last 16 sts, knit to end.
Row 17: Repeat Row 2.
Row 18: Repeat Row 16.

Note: You are creating "crosswise ridges" of three rows of St st, alternating with 3 rows of Reverse St st, at the beginning and end of every row, with the 2x2 Rib continuing in the center.

Rows 19-64 (70): Continue until 2 sts remain in the 2x2 Rib in the center of the hat, increasing the number of knit sts worked at the beginning and end of every third row by 2, decreasing the number of 2x2 Rib sts worked in the center of the hat by 2 on each side, and working all intervening rows by knitting the knit sts and purling the purl sts. Break yarn.

Transfer first 49 (53) sts to spare needle, with point facing towards center of work. Using Kitchener Stitch (see Special Techniques, page 158), graft sts together, beginning at center of work.

Neckband
CO 10sts. Begin 1x1 Rib. Work even until piece measures 12 (12 3/4)" [30.5 (32.5) cm] from the beginning, or to 3 3/4" (9.5 cm) less than desired length.

Make Buttonhole
Row 1 (RS): Work 4 sts, k1-f/b, p1, pass second st on right-handed needle over last st, k1-f/b, pass third st on right-handed needle over last 2 sts, work to end.
Row 2: Work 3 sts, p2tog, k2, p1, k1, p2tog, work to end.
*Work even for 7 rows. Repeat buttonhole rows. Repeat from * once. Work even until piece measures 15 3/4 (16 1/2)" [40 (42) cm] from the beginning, ending with a WS row. BO all sts in pattern.

Finishing
Block pieces lightly. Sew side edge of neckband to CO edge of hat, beginning with CO edge of neckband flush with right edge of Hat. Sew button to neckband, so that when fastened, neckband fits comfortably around neck.

Thanks to Kristen Rengren and the folks at Stewart Tabori & Chang for sharing this project with us.

Read more knitting-related posts. More crafty project downloads can be found in our How-Tuesday series on the Etsy blog. And did you know that you can buy Supplies on Etsy?

How-Tuesday: Ahoy There! Pop-Up Pirate Card

2009-04-28T16:08:00-05:00

Shiver me timbers! This card hails a pirate's "Hearty ahoy!" to a friend, captain, or best mate. With its pop-up frigate and jolly sailin' birdies, it's sure to evince a mirthful demeanor from the scurvy lad or merry lass who receives it. Download the complete project instructions here, or follow along below, courtesy of Handmade Hellos by Eunice Moyle and Sabrina Moyle.

You'll Need:
Glue stick
2 pieces of lined notebook or filler paper (trimmed to 9 x 6 1/4")
Card stock (trimmed to 9 x 6 1/4")
Ruler
Bone folder
Scissors
Two 8 1/2 x 11" sheets of tracing paper
Pencil, 2B or softer
Ballpoint pen
Brown card stock or construction paper (trimmed to 9 x 6 1/4")
Black pen
Two 4 x 4" scraps of red text-weight paper

Template:

How-To:

Line the card stock.
Using your glue stick, apply glue to the wrong side of your first sheet of lined notebook paper. Center your card stock on the lined paper, and smooth to adhere. Repeat with your second sheet of lined paper and the other side of your card stock. With a ruler and bone folder, score and fold the card in half, parallel to the short side of your card.

Make the waves.
Cut the wave shapes into a long side of one of the blue paper strips, either cutting freehand or using the template provided. If you'll be using the template, trace and transfer the wave to your blue paper and then trim it with scissors. Apply glue to the wrong side of the wave and adhere it to the front of your card, aligning the sides and bottom. Repeat with the second blue paper strip, pasting it to the back side of your card. Let it dry.

Make the boat.
Trace and transfer the boat template to your brown card stock. Cut out the boat, using a pair of scissors. With your black pen, draw a wood-grain effect all over the front of the boat. Draw an almond-shaped or circular center forming the knot, then draw contour lines 1/4" along the sides of the knot, echoing its shape and tapering to straight lines and either end, repeat the contour lines to form a striped wood grain pattern, adding additional knots as desired. Fold the boat in half, and then fold along the lines to create flaps, being sure both flaps fold away from you.

Draw a pirate sail.
Trace and transfer the Sail template (a pirate sail is also known as a Jolly Roger) to the upper half of your card. Color it in using black pen.

Paste the boat in place.
With the boat facing right side up, apply glue to its flaps. Fold back and paste these flaps in place (just below the sail), pressing down on them to adhere.

Add a couple of pirate-y birds.
Trace and transfer the Bird template to your red paper, twice. Cut out two bird shapes. Apply glue to the wrong side of each bird and paste them in place on the card. Using a black pen, add features such as an eye patch and a pirate's hat.

Add your greeting.
Fold your card, and write a pirate-y greeting on the front, such as Ahoy there!

Variations:
Avast, me hearties! Pirate lore and lingo are a fun starting point for a whole host of occasions. You may even consider giving this card to a friend on International Talk Like a Pirate Day (September 19th)!
Best mate. Add the greeting You're my best mate! to let someone know you appreciate their friendship. Consider adding a cheery Aarrr! or Aye, me hearty! to the back of the card.
Pirate Party. Use this card as an invitation to a pirate-themed party, or make it for the host if you are invited to one.
Anchors away! Give a merry send-off to a friend or colleague who is embarking on a new adventure. Smooth sailin' an' fair winds t'ye!

Thanks to Kate Sutton, Eunice Moyle, Sabrina Moyle, and the folks at Chronicle Books for sharing this project with us.

More crafty project downloads can be found in our How-Tuesday series on the Etsy blog! And did you know that you can buy Supplies on Etsy?

More Pirate Paper Goods available on Etsy | Items for your Pirate Costume

How-Tuesday: Bunny Bowling with thelongthread

2009-04-14T14:30:00-05:00

Easter may have come and gone, but we're full of bunny love year round! Download the pattern and complete project instructions here, or follow along below, courtesy of Ellen from thelongthread.com.

Supplies:

Cotton, twill or canvas, 11" x 11" per bunny
Contrasting fabric for ears
Fusible interfacing, 1/4 yard
Fabric Marker
Matching thread
Embroidery hoop (5" or smaller)
Embroidery thread
Embroidery needle
Polyfill or other stuffing material
Funnel
Rice, 1/2 cup per bunny
Wooden ball

Instructions:
Step 1: PREPARE FABRIC. Wash, dry, press all fabric.

Step 2: EMBROIDER FACE. Cut one 5 1/2" x 11" piece of fabric for each bunny you are making. Mark 9" up from the bottom in the center of the fabric and use a fabric marker to draw the face. Place the fabric in a small embroidery hoop and sew the face. Note: You may also choose to sew the face on after the bunny is completed.

Step 3: CUT FABRIC. Cut out paper templates. Fold over fabric front with embroidered face lengthwise, aligning bowling pin template with the bottom edge of the fabric. Be sure to place embroidered face in desired spot and cut shape. Cut backs of bunnies from remaining fabric, cutting along the fold again. Cut ear fronts from contrasting fabric and ear backs from solid fabric.

Step 4: SEW BUNNY EARS. Iron fusible interfacing onto back side of bunny ear. Place ear pieces right sides out using a blunt tool. Fold corners over towards contrasting fabric and sew 1/4" from bottom to create crease in ears. Press flat.

Step 5: SEW BUNNY. Place ears upside down and right sides facing up on right side of bunny back side. Fold ears and pin them in place, making sure that they are pinned out of the way of the seam allowance. Pin bunny back to front, right sides together. With a 1/4" seam allowance, sew along outside edges and 1" into either side along the bottom. Reinforce with an overcasting stitch, making sure all seams are secure.

Step 6: MAKE PLEATS IN BOTTOM. Pull fabric at corners to form a right angle in the opposite direction of the stitching. Press flat. Mark a line 3/4" from the tip of the seam and sew along this line. Trim excess fabric and reinforce with and overcasting stitch. Turn bunny right sides out.

Step 7: STUFF BUNNY. Using funnel, stuff 3/4 full with polyfill or other stuffing. Pack stuffing in tightly using the closed tip of scissors or other blunt object. Using the funnel, fill the remaining space with approximately 1/2 cup of rice.

Your roll, bunny-lovers! See a compilation of how-tos from thelongthread here.

More crafty project downloads can be found in our How-Tuesday series on the Etsy blog! And did you know that you can buy Supplies on Etsy?

How-Tuesday: Snuggle Up with a Bedtime Duvet

2009-04-07T15:56:00-05:00

I challenge you to scroll down without feeling overcome with an urge to yelp, "Awww!" Don't worry, you're not weak, it's simply an impossible task. Download the complete project instructions here, or follow along below, courtesy of Baby Stuff by Aranzi Aronzo.

Aranzi Aronzo claim to be a Mexican-Japanese man working at a securities firm and a Norwegian Vietnamese-Indian man who plays the tambourine full-time. They are actually two sisters who create mischievous fun with their adorable crafts and hilarious comics.

Hi, we're Aranzi Aronzo. This book teaches you how to make things you'll need for your baby. Well, maybe your baby won't really need them, but they're things that might be fun to have. Pregnancy is a magical time unlike any other. Having a baby is hard work but there will also be plenty of things that warm your heart. Each day is like a fun adventure. Make the things in this book while thinking of your baby, your relative's baby or even your friend's baby.

Thanks to Aranzi Aronzo and the folks at Vertical for sharing this project.

More crafty project downloads can be found in our How-Tuesday series on the Etsy blog! And did you know that you can buy Supplies on Etsy?

How-Tuesday: Make a Donkey Softie

2009-03-24T16:20:00-05:00

We jumped on this adorable donkey tutorial by Myra Masuda and immediately knew we needed to share! Download the complete project instructions here, or follow along below, courtesy of Softies Only a Mother Could Love: Lovable Friends for You to Sew, Knit, or Crochet by Jess Redman and Meg Leder. This makes a great gift for the kiddo or the adult toy-collector in your life.

Donkey

Tools
Iron
Tracing paper
Scissors
Pins
Sewing needle
Sewing machine
Stuffing stick (or chopstick or pencil)

Materials
Body fabric - An 18 cm x 30 cm (7 in x 12 in) piece of plain fabric for the main body; a 15 cm x 25 cm (6 in x 10 in) piece of new or vintage patterned fabric for the inner body.

Extra fabric - A scrap of plain tan or cream fabric for the muzzle; scraps of white felt for the eyes and black felt for the pupils; interfacing for the ears.

Thread - Colored sewing thread to match the body fabric; brown, pink and white embroidery thread for the mane and tail.

Stuffing - Polyfill.

Instructions
1. Trace and cut out the pattern using the template provided. Pin it to the fabric and cut out the pieces. You will need to cut 2 main body shapes, 2 inner body shapes, 6 ear shapes (2 in each fabric, plus 2 in interfacing), 2 muzzle shapes, and 2 pupil shapes from your fabric.

2. Pin each muzzle to a main body piece (x to x, right sides facing). Sew Together.

3. Pin body/muzzle pieces together (right sides facing) and sew around the top of the body from A to B, leaving an opening for turning right-side out and stuffing (as marked on the pattern).

4. Pin the inner body pieces together (right sides facing) and sew from A to B.

5. Pin the inner body piece to the main body piece (right sides facing), A to A and B to B. Sew together.

6. Trim edges and clip fabric around the curved edges. Be careful not to clip the seam. Turn right side out.

7. Using a stuffing stick, push small amounts of stuffing into the tight corners first — legs and muzzle. Gradually fill the rest of the body until the stuffing is firm and even, but not too tight.

8. Hand-sew the stuffing opening closed using a ladder stitch.

9. For the eyes, sew each black felt oval onto a white felt circle and then position the eyes on the head as marked. Sew in place. Make French knot with the white embroidery thread for each pupil, as marked on the pattern. Use 3 strands of brown embroidery thread to sew the nostrils onto the muzzle using a straight stitch. Then use 3 strands of pink embroidery thread to sew the mouth using a back stitch. Sew the eyelashes with black embroidery thread.

10. For each ear, pin together a solid color fabric piece, patterned fabric piece, and interfacing (with fabrics right sides facing). Sew together, leaving the base open for turning right-side out. Turn right-side out and iron flat. Turn the base edge of the ears under 6 mm (1/4 in) and hand-sew closed using a ladder stitch. Sew right and left bottom corners of the ear together to form a ring. Position ears to the head (y to y) and attach with a ladder stitch.

11. For the tail, fold the tail piece in half (right sides facing) as marked on the pattern. Sew along the long edge to make a tube. Turn right-side out. Turn the edges under 6 mm (1/4 in) at each end and sew closed using a ladder stitch.
12. Use black embroidery thread for the end of the tail. Insert the needle into the tail, about 8 mm (5/16 in) from the end. Pull through, leaving about a 5 cm (2 in) tail. Cut off, leaving a tail of equal length. Repeat all the way around the end of the tail. Tie a piece of thread around the tail tassel, close to the end where it is attached to the tail. Attach the tie to the end of the tail so it won't slip off. Trim the tassel to a uniform length.

13. Pin finished tail to the back of the donkey at B. Attach with a ladder stitch.

14. Use black embroidery thread to stitch the mane. Starting at point C, insert needle on right side of "spine" and bring out 3 mm (1/8 in) over, on the left side of the spine, leaving about 2.5 cm (1 in) tail on the right side. Insert needle at the first point of entry and bring out at the second point (effectively "tying" the thread to the spine). Cut off, leaving a 2.5 cm (1 in) tail on the left side. Repeat this process until you've worked your way from point C to point D. Once finished, trim the mane to a uniform length of about 2 cm (3/4 in).

Thanks to Myra Masuda, Jess Redman, Meg Leder and the folks at Penguin for sharing this project.
More crafty project downloads can be found in our How-Tuesday series on the Etsy blog!

The Kids are Doin' It for Themselves: D.I.Y. Kids by the Luptons

2007-10-23T16:26:00-05:00

The newest book by sisters Ellen and Julia Lupton, D.I.Y. Kids, is so much more than your average rainy day children's activity book. By nurturing a child's inner designer you can encourage budding artist to think outside the box.

No really. The book actually challenges kids to consider what to do with those old cereal boxes you have marked for the trash. Why not create a photo or memory box? Turn everyday office supplies into monsters or produce their own zine.
D.I.Y. Kids breaks down the complex ideas behind design and branding into easy, simple activities for kids to understand. The recognizable symbols used to describe the complexity, time frame, cost and mess factor are clearly labeled with each project, to allow children to start creating small or big, with or without parental help.

Each chapter offers insight into a different design field that kids can start exploring. Career profiles details how graphic, toy, home and fashion designers have turned their art into a full fledged jobs, allowing young minds to see just how important design can be in the world and to individuals.

This book also offers a glimpse into the digital age of the arts and crafts projects for the techno savvy kids out there. With simple clicks, you can create desktop wall paper, logos or mouse pads. Turn your computers scanner into a camera and start playing with textures and shapes from things you'd find in your kitchen cupboards or junk drawers. Loose change and dried pasta never looked so cool.

The sister act team starts an important dialogue for children: what it means to be D.I.Y. Instead of heading to the nearest toy store for the latest "it" toy of the moment, why not take their drawings and sketches and turn them into stickers, plush toys or wearable art. Create your own gifts for friends and family!

By using simple language and great images (most of the images used are from kids themselves), the Lupton sisters have created a great reference book for families and children alike to use over and over again.

Further Resources:

Etsy's very own Jen Bennett Gubicza, aka sweetestpea, is featured in the book (though her name is mispelled as Gubizca)

Buy the book

D.I.Y. Kids blog

Design Your Life blog