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How-Tuesday: Gingerbread Man Puppets From Felting for Baby

2009-12-08T15:50:00-05:00

Craft projects provide ample opportunities to spend time with your family and build anticipation for the holiday in the weeks leading up to Christmas. The sound of slippered little feet scrambling down the stairs will be irresistible! Saori Yamazaki's Felting for Baby offers beautiful inspiration to create everything soft and warm your baby needs. For this week's How-Tuesday, Saori shares the fundamentals of felting three-dimensional forms along with her pattern for Gingerbread Man Puppets to get your baby's first Christmas started off just right.

Purchase Felting for Baby from Amazon or an independent bookseller

Felt work involves taking fluffy wool fibers and working with them until the fabric is just the way you like. The items you can make vary widely, and there's no limit to what you can do with your ideas: making cute accessories, practical bags, and items for everyday life.

Making something by hand for someone else is a lot of fun, but a special joy is found in making something for a tiny, tiny baby. For example, if you're making booties, you can't help thinking of the cute little feet that you are making them for, and you find yourself smiling. A regular population explosion has been happening among my friends in recent years, and even though I enjoy buying baby gifts in a store, most of the time, my friends expect something handmade. At times like that, I get excited about making something.

I'm confident that my friends are pleased with the warmth of fine handmade felt items. I'd like all of you to try your hand at making felt items, too, whether for an infant, for someone else, or even for yourself.

Getting Started

The basic principle behind felt work is taking fluffy, raw wool fibers and intertwining them to create a stable form. This process is the act of felting. Wet Felting: In this technique, you take a small amount of liquid detergent, add it to hot water (this mixture is referred to simply as hot, soapy water in this book), moisten the wool fibers with it, and push and rub the fibers into shape. The chemical properties and heat of the liquid detergent, and the vibration and friction from your hands, cause the wool fibers to entwine and mat evenly, resulting in a smooth, strong fabric. This efficient technique is appropriate for making sheets of felt or felt with a lot of volume.

Tools and Materials:
The main type of wool used in this book is known as roving, which is raw wool that has been cleaned, carded, and gathered into long strips.

Shallow Basin: A shallow basin or container of some kind is useful when making a sheet of felt as it helps to contain the water used in the felting process. Alternately, you can use the kitchen sink.

Hot, Soapy Water: Add 3 or 4 drops of dishwashing detergent to about 1 quart of hot water. Adjust the amount so that it will foam slightly when you apply it to the wool, and rub. The hotter the water is, the faster the felting process will occur. Lukewarm or cold water takes more time.

Watering Can: Use this to sprinkle the carded wool lightly with hot, soapy water so that it doesn't separate. A spray bottle also works.

Waterproof Pattern Paper: Make patterns for your projects from a material that will not lose its shape when wet. Plastic sheeting and bubble wrap work well, but you can use the coated cardboard from milk cartons, too.

Wooden Dowel: You can advance the felting process by wrapping the wool around a wooden dowel or rolling pin. The larger your project is, the thicker the rolling pin should be.

How to Make Bag-Shaped and Three-Dimensional Forms

1. Arrange Side A
Take about 1 ounce of wool and divide it into eight equal strands. Make two layers, one horizontal and one vertical, on the pattern paper, using one strand of wool per layer. Even out the area, and spread out the wool so that it's a bit larger than the pattern area. (I refer to the front of the bag as side A and the back as side B.) Apply hot, soapy water to the two layers of wool and work it in thoroughly with your hands.

2. Work Side A
Turn the whole project over, along with the pattern paper. (If the piece is large, remove the pattern paper before turning it over and then replace it on the new top side.) If any of the fibers are sticking out, fold them over the pattern paper and work the edges and corners thoroughly.

3. Arrange Side B
Make two layers, one horizontal and one vertical, on another piece of pattern paper, using one strand of wool per layer. Then place side B on top of side A, pattern papers together.

4. Work Side B
Work the surface of side B with hot, soapy water, then turn the whole project over again. Turn it gently to make sure that the part you worked doesn't come apart or tear away.

5. Make a Bag Shape
As in step 2, fold over any wool fibers that stick out. Repeat steps 1 through 4 on both sides so that both sides have four layers of wool each.

6. Continue Felting
Put plastic bags over both hands, and start rubbing the felt in circular motions around the center, first gently, and then with more force. You can increase the pressure by pressing with the very tips of your fingers. Be sure to work the edges and corners thoroughly.

7. Pinch Test
Pinch a bit of the surface to see whether the fibers are firmly intertwined. (Be sure to check both side A and side B.) If the fibers come lose or break off, then the felting process is incomplete; repeat step 6.

8. Cut an Opening
Use scissors to cut an opening on the side that will be the mouth of the bag. (You'll felt the cult in step 11 to strengthen it.)

9. Remove the Pattern Paper
Slide the pattern papers out. Because the felting process is not yet complete on the inside of the bag, hold the bag carefully so that the insides don't stick to each other.

10. Turn It Right Side Out
Turn the bag right side out, taking care not to tear or stretch any of the felted fibers.

11. Felt the Edges and Opening
Flatten out the side edges of the bag and carefully rub and work them so that they felt. Since the opening cut in step 8 may be weak, work it for a while so that it's straight and sturdy.

12. Roll Up All Sides From Four Directions
Use a wooden dowel to roll up both side A and side B from the top, bottom, right, and left. Each time you unroll the felt, smooth out the wrinkles. If it starts to dry out, apply a little more hot, soapy water. Repeat this step until the whole piece has shrunk evenly and to the desired dimensions.

13. Shape the Bottom
Fold the bottom so that it's like a paper grocery bag, and rub and work it to form and stabilize the shape. Do the same with both side A and side B.

14. Make It Three-Dimensional
Stand the bag up, insert your hand, and flatten the inside bottom. Consider the proportions of the entire bag as you carefully felt the interior sides, angles, and opening, so that no distorted or uneven surfaces remain.

15. Adjust the Opening
Adjust the opening so that the bag is a uniform height. Apply some more hot, soapy water to the cut edges of the opening and work it in.

16. Stabilize the Shape
Rinse the bag in lukewarm water and briefly run it through the spin cycle of a washing machine. Stabilize the shape by ironing it, using a towel to keep the bag's shape.

17. Finishing
Let the felt dry naturally, and you will end up with the main body of a bag.

Finished Size 5 1/2" x 9 1/2"

Materials:
Wool for the main body: Natural or camel, 1 ounce
Wool for the face and buttons: Brown, small amounts

Instructions:
1. Divide the wool for the main body into eight parts.

2. Cut out a piece of pattern paper (download pattern here). Felt four layers of wool on both sides of the pattern paper to make a bag shape.

3. Cut an opening across the bottom, remove the pattern paper, and turn the puppet right side out. (Carefully use a rod to turn the arms and neck inside out.) Felt the puppet by rolling it up from all sides until it reaches the size indicated in the diagram.

4. Rinse and spin the puppet, iron it, and let it dry naturally.

5. Put a sponge inside the puppet and use a needle to felt the face and buttons onto the puppet.

Thanks to Saori Yamazaki and the good folks at Trumpeter Publishing for sharing this project with us. For more sweet wool, check out Felting for Baby.

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How-Tuesday: Jam Jar Gift Toppers From A Rainbow of Stitches

2009-12-01T16:19:00-05:00

While most of my gifts for Hanukkah this year will be coming from Etsy, I still try to look for ways in which I can add my own handmade touch, whether it's in the gift wrap, cards, or embellishments. The encyclopedia of embroidered design, A Rainbow of Stitches, offers over a thousand motifs to inspire you to add personal details to your holiday gifts. For this week's How-Tuesday, the authors share the fundamentals of cross-stitch along with a PDF of holiday cheer motifs to get you in the mood. Besides the lovely jam jar toppers above, how else would you put these seasonal patterns to use? Leave your ideas in the comments below!

Purchase A Rainbow of Stitches from Amazon or an independent bookseller.

If you haven't tried embroidery or cross-stitch before, a quick look through this book will give you overwhelming proof that you can stitch on virtually anything made from fabric. More than eighty inspiring ideas for stitched embellishment are shown, from wearables and personal accessories to a variety of decorative items for every room in your home.

So dig through your closets and open your dresser drawers to find an item that needs a little extra "something," then take a trip to your local crafts or fabric store to get some basic supplies. A rainbow of stitches awaits!

Before You Begin

Before you start, make sure your fabric is well prepared so it won't fray as you're stitching it. You can either hem the edges with a large basting stitch, or simply apply fusible web strips around the fabric's perimeter. Keep in mind that the piece of fabric should always be larger than the pattern to be stitched.

Working With Fabric

Fold your fabric in four to find its center point. Make large basting stitches along both the horizontal and vertical folds to serve as guidelines as you stitch. Align the center point of your motif with the point where the two lines of stitching intersect. Remove these guidelines once you've finished embroidering your motif.

To help stitches stay even, use an emboridery hoop. Gently stretch your fabric on the hoop, making sure to reposition it frequently — or to remove it at the end of each stitching session — to avoid damaging its weave.

Working With Embroidery Floss

Two or three strands of six-strand cotton floss were used to stitch all of the projects shown in this book. Whenever you start a project, you'll find it helpful to make a sampler of stitches on the fabric you're planning to use to determine how many strands of floss you'll need. As a general rule, lower-count Aidas — a type of counted thread fabric that's traditionally used for cross-stitch projects — require more strands, while higher-count Aidas and linens need fewer. For example, most projects stitched on 14-count Aida require three strands of floss, while those stitched on a 28-count linen, which has a much tighter weave, would probably need just two strands, and even one might look fine.

Transferring Motifs

To transfer motifs to your fabric, use carbon transfer paper, which is specially made for embroidery and is available in several colors. Choose the one that works best with your fabric. For example, white transfer paper is best for dark fabrics, while blue or red work best on lighter ones.

Start by photocopying the motif, which you can enlarge or reduce to get it to just the right size. Trace the photocopied motif on a sheet of tracing paper, following its outline and making sure to include all its details. Prepare your fabric according to the instructions on the previous page, then iron it carefully before spreading it out on a flat surface, such as an ironing board or clean work table.

Place the transfer paper between the fabric and the tracing paper, making sure to put the colored side of the transfer paper face down. Keep the papers in place by pinning them to the fabric. With a hard pencil or a pen, carefully trace the motif, pressing down so that the entire image transfers properly. Once you've finished, separate the papers and fabric carefully to avoid smudging the fabric.

Starting and Ending Off

This method of starting and ending off avoids having to tie knots on the back of your piece. To begin, take about a yard of floss, using as many strands as you need for your project. Fold it in two, then thread the needle. Bring the needle up through the fabric, leaving the loop created by the folded floss at the back. Bring the needle back down to start your first stitch, passing it through the loop, then pull gently to lock in the thread. Once you're done stitching, slip your thread under your last three or four stitches.

Essential Stitches

Cross stitch method 1
Cross stitches are typically worked on counted-thread fabric. This method is especially useful for lines of cross stitch.

Come up through the fabric at point A, then go back down at point B, up at C, down at D. Come back up at E and, working in the opposite direction, go down at B to form an X.

Cross stitch method 2
This method can be used either for lines of cross stitch or to make individual stitches.

1. Come up at point A, go down at B, come back up at C, then down at D to form the first cross stitch.

2. Come back up at B, go down at E, come up at D, then go down at F to the second cross stitch.

Stem stitch
Stem stitches create a continuous yet slightly staggered line.

1. Bring the needle up at point A, then into B and up at C (midway between A and B). Note that thread should loop under the needle.

2. To make the next stitch, go down at D and come back up at E, above the previous stitch and midway along its length.

Download a PDF of holiday cheer motifs here.

Thanks to Agnès Delage-Calvet, Anne Sohier-Fournel, Muriel Brunet, Françoise Ritz, and the good folks at Watson-Guptill Publications for sharing this project with us. For more inspired stitching, check out A Rainbow of Stitches.

More How-Tuesday Posts | Supplies Category | The Do-It-Yourselfer Gift Guide

How-Tuesday: Rolling Balls From Magic Books & Paper Toys

2009-11-17T14:14:00-05:00

As a lover of both books and crafts, I have a very difficult time letting my coffee table volumes or National Geographic issues sit on the shelf for long before I'm ripping, cutting, folding, and gluing. Pages sticky with mod podge, my collection of paper transforms into a vault of materials and inspiration. Paper guru Esther K. Smith will be hosting Craft Night at the Etsy Labs next Monday, November 23. As a teaser, she shares her Rolling Balls project from Magic Books & Paper Toys for this week's How-Tuesday. This would make a great project (with or without the kids!) as you get ready to decorate for the holidays.

Purchase Magic Books & Paper Toys

Long before I ever thought of making books, I got a hexaflexagon in the mail from Dikko. Other men send flowers, jewelry, or chocolate, but he wooed me with paper. (It worked — we've been collaborating on art and our family for many years now.)

He had read about them in Martin Gardiner's math column in Scientific American and made one for a grad-school course at the University of Wisconsin. The flexagon was cool. I made them for a while — sent one to my mathematician cousin (he was not impressed) — and then forgot about them. Years later, teaching a class at Cooper Union called Instant Artist's Books, I found that hexaflexagon again and decided to include flexagons in my class. Then I got a photocopy of a page from a Victorian children's book that showed magic wallet construction. Those two forms were so easy and interesting that I built a curriculum around them. I developed my Magic Books & Paper Toys weekend workshop, which started at New York's Center for Book Arts. I've taught it at Long Island University, The San Francisco Center for the Book, and Penland School of Crafts.

When I began teaching design for CUNY, I used flexagons with my CUNY undergrads for design and color-theory problem solving. Since their designs split and reverse, they make an interesting design challenge. They also keep me amused.

I added flip books, strip animations, and spinners with wonderful results. One student rendered a paint can that sprays graffiti, another made a subway car with cut-out windows that show the stations changing.

I've seen flip books of fingernails growing, T-shirts changing designs, and all kinds of winking, blinking spinners. I wish I could see the cool things YOU make!

I've seen these made from holiday cards as ornaments, but they are also interesting books. And it's fun to roll them. You could even put a simple pop-up inside.

You Will Need
Heavy, foldable paper
Compass or round object (glass, bowl) to trace
Pencil
Scissors
Bone folder
Adhesive
Drawing and collage materials to embellish
Velco, magnets (optional)

1. Trace circles onto the paper using a compass, or trace a jar or small bowl. The heavier the paper, the fewer circles.

2. Cut the circles out with scissors or a knife.

3. Fold them in half and burnish.

4. Adhere the folded circles back to back, lining them up with care and burnishing until you have enough to create a full ball shape when you open up the ball.

5. Place Velcro or magnets on the covers so that the ball can stay open.

6. Roll your book to be sure it works.

7. Embellish with drawing, rubber stamps, or collage.

Rolling Faces: You can put whatever appeals to you on the pages of your rolling book. Faces can be fun. One student thought faces of politicians would be nice rolling away. Cut them from magazines or newspapers and collage.

Thanks to Esther K. Smith and the good folks at Potter Craft for sharing this project with us. For more paper inspiration, check out Magic Books & Paper Toys.

More How-Tuesday Posts | Supplies Category | DIY Made Simple Gift Guide

How-Tuesday: Miniature Stocking Ornament From Sweater Renewal

2009-11-10T14:30:00-05:00

As the season of bulky fibers descends upon us, I inevitably must clean out my sweater drawer for new finds. Pulling out fistfuls of thick wool, I mourn moth holes, shrunken sleeves, oil stains. The colorful knits, even flawed, nevertheless feel enduring, and thus when I came across Sharon Franco Rothschild's Sweater Renewal, I was already inspired. For this week's How-Tuesday, Sharon shares her wool felting technique, along with a template to make a cozy upcycled Christmas ornament. You could even enlarge the template to make a full-size Christmas stocking.

Purchase Sweater Renewal from Amazon or an independent bookseller

I am, always will be, a self-confessed sweater junkie. Whether I am designing, knitting, buying, felting, cutting, or wearing sweaters, I can never get enough of them. Sweaters provide comfort, warmth, and a certain sense of style.

We all have our favorites — some that make us feel fabulously stylish, some that make us feel incredibly comfortable, and those that offer a coziness and warmth that no other piece of clothing can compete with. As we collect and add sweaters to our wardrobes year after year, memories also attach themselves to each piece.

I will forever remember one of my all-time favorite sweaters, and its quick demise. I was sixteen years old, and the sweater (I can remember it like it was yesterday) was a pink mohair cardigan, the exact color of cotton candy. When I wore this sweater, I felt transformed. I felt grown up, stylish, even beautiful. But one of my father's first attempts to do the laundry for our family ended in disaster for this cherished piece of clothing. After some washing-machine agitation (in hot water, no less), my beautiful sweater shrank down to one-third its original size and was suddenly and completely unwearable. But my love affair with this sweater was not yet over. I kept it in my top dresser drawer, and every time I opened that drawer, I would look at my pink sweater and remember instantly how good it had made me feel. It was years before I could actually part with it. How I wish now that I had made something else out of it, something that I could have continued to use in my daily life, to remind me of my dad and the wonderful feeling that sweater had given me.

Fortunately, I have discovered that damaged sweaters, old sweaters, out-of-style sweaters, and sweaters that once belonged to a loved one can have a second life. So clean out your closets, start your washing machines, sharpen your scissors, and get ready to redesign, recycle, and renew your wool sweaters.

Miniature Stocking Ornament

It's never too soon to start thinking about the holidays. These tree ornaments are just waiting to be stuffed with tiny treasures and placed on your tree or above your fireplace. The stocking is made from a brightly colored mohair sweater.

Finished Measurements
3" (7.5cm) x 5 1/2" (14cm)

Materials
Yellow-green sweater made of mostly feltable fibers, at least 8 3/4" x 16 1/2" (22cm x 42cm)
Stocking template (download here) and tracing paper
Sewing needle and yellow thread
1 skein each Rowan Classic Cashsoft 4-ply yarn, 57% extra fine merino, 33% microfibre, 10% cashmere, 1.75 oz (50g), 197 yd (180m), in light brown and dark green, plus fuchsia for crochet flower (optional)
Crocheted fuschia five-petal flower (optional)
Four 10mm nugget beads, 3 amber, and 1 translucent white (2 amber beads and the white one are optional)
Small box of straight pins
DMC embroidery needle #5
Beadalon big eye beading needle 2 1/4" (5.5cm)
Tapestry needle
Size G-6 (4mm) crochet hook (optional)

Techniques
Washing and felting
Embroidery: Blanket stitch, running stitch
Crochet (optional): Silp stitch, chain stitch, single crochet, double crochet

Felt the Sweater

There are three methods for felting sweaters: in your washing machine, by hand in your sink or tub, or at your local dry cleaner. The washing-machine method is the easiest and fastest way to felt, especially if you are washing a whole sweater or blanket. If you are doing a small piece, such as a sock, hat, or a cut piece of a sweater, you may find the hand-washing method easier. If you do not want to deal with the actual washing and felting yourself, your local dry cleaner is a good alternative.

Washing-Machine Felting
1. There are two types of washing machines — top loaders and front loaders. Top loaders open at the top of the machine, and you put your clothes in a basket-like container that has a cylinder in the middle. Top loaders work best for sweater felting for two reasons. The first is that you can open the top at any time during the wash cycle and check your felting. The second is that the cylinder in the middle provides a lot of agitation, so your sweater will felt very quickly, often in one cycle.

Front loaders have a door that opens in the front of the machine, and they provide a much larger, more open space than a top loader. Once the wash cycle begins, the door automatically locks and cannot be opened until the cycle is finished. Because there is no spin basket in the front loader, there is less agitation. So with front loaders, I suggest that you begin any felting project using a very short cycle (hand-wash is best) and know that you may need to go through a few cycles before your sweater will felt the way you want it to.

How to Felt Using the Washing Machine

Place your item in a pillowcase. This will protect your piece and provide more friction (which is a good thing).
Select a very short cycle to begin. The hand-wash cycle is always a safe bet.
Set the water temperature to Warm.
Add about 1/4 cup (60ml) of Ivory liquid soap, or any dishwashing liquid with a low pH balance.
Select the shortest spin cycle and the gentlest wash cycle. Spinning the item for too long can distort the shape of the piece, but it needs to spin a little so all the water comes out.
Place the pillowcase with your item inside in the washing machine. Start your washing machine. Do not felt more than one piece at a time. After each cycle, take your piece out of the pillowcase and check to see if you need to wash it again.
When you have achieved the desired results, put your item in the dryer (still in the pillowcase). Run the dryer on a very low- or no-heat setting until the item is dry.

Make the Stocking

2. Trace and cut out the Stocking template (download here), enlarged at 200%. Pin the template onto the felted sweater and cut it out.

3. Pin right sides together. Machine-stitch around the sides of the stocking, using a 1/2" (13mm) seam allowance. Leave the top edge of the stocking open. Turn the stocking right-side out.

4. Turn under 1" (2.5cm) at the top of the stocking. Using light-brown yarn, the tapestry needle, and running stitch, stitch around the stocking to secure the top hem.

5. Blanket stitch around the machine-stitched edges of the stocking, using light-brown yarn and the tapestry needle.

Appliqué & Embroider

6. If desired, you may crochet a five-petal fuchsia flower.

Chain 4, leaving a tail 3" to 4" (7.5 - 10cm) long. Join with a slip stitch to form the loop. (Chain 3, single crochet 1 into the loop) 4 times. Chain 3. Using a slip stitch, join to the base of the first chain 3. You now have five petals. Fasten off, leaving a tail 3" to 4" (7.5 - 10cm) long.

Pin the crocheted flower in place on the front of the stocking. WIth the beading needle, sew an amber nugget bead in the center of the flower, simultaneously sewing the flower to the stocking front. Be careful not to sew the front of the stocking to the back while doing this. If you do not wish to use the crocheted flower, simply sew the amber bead to the front of the stocking at the same point where it would be if the flower were there.

Crochet Loop (Optional)

7. This loop will attach to the bead center of the flower, closing the stocking. Using dark-green yarn, join the yarn to the top center back of the stocking with a slip stitch. Chain 32, slip stitch into the 22nd chain to form the loop, work a single crochet in each chain from that point back to the edge of the stocking. Tie off the yarn and weave the end under the hem of the stocking.

Crochet Strap (Optional)

8. Using two strands of light-brown yarn held together, leave a 3 1/2" to 4" (9-10cm) tail and tie an overhand knot with the two strands used as one. Attach yarn to the upper left corner of stocking (on the heel side). Crochet a 7" (18cm) chain. Chain 10 beyond the 7" (18cm) point. Form these 10 chains into a loop and slip stitch to the end of the 7" (18cm) chained strap. Sew an amber nugget bead onto the upper right corner of the stocking (on the toe side). The chained strap will come over the stocking and attach to this bead by the loop. At the end of the strand of yarn you left as a tail at the beginning of the strap, tie an amber bead. Tie the white translucent bead at the end of the other yarn tail.

Thanks to Sharon Franco Rothschild and the good folks at Potter Craft for sharing this project with us. For more upcycling inspiration, check out Sweater Renewal.

More How-Tuesday Posts | Supplies Category | DIY Made Simple Gift Guide

How-Tuesday: Rose Petal Tee From Appliqué Your Way

2009-11-03T16:07:00-05:00

Picking through the scrap bins at fabric stores is my cherished scavenging adventure for texture and pattern. In every nook of my craft storage, strips of vibrant textiles bloom forth. When I find projects made for these sweet trims, I'm not only reinventing a T-shirt or a tote bag, I'm also creating something completely new out of my neglected bouquet of materials. Kayte Terry, who has shared many a resourceful embellishing how-to on The Storque, has come out with a new book, Appliqué Your Way. These projects will inspire you to root your way through not just your own pile of discarded cloth, but your neighbor's as well.

Purchase Appliqué Your Way from Amazon or an independent bookseller.

I came to appliqué through my love of fabric and patterns. I adore the contrast of rich velvet on linen or a sweet Liberty print mixed with tweed. My heart goes all aflutter when I score a stack of feed-sack fabrics on eBay or unearth a set of vintage Marimekko curtains at a flea market. Doing appliqué is a way for me to highlight these special fabrics in my work and to play with textures and colors.

The beauty of appliqué is that you can use small amounts of gorgeous fabric to make a statement. It's a great way to use scraps from your other sewing projects or to put old clothing or linens to new use. You can transform everyday clothing and household items into one-of-a-kind works of art with the addition of some simple appliqué. There's really nothing more satisfying than answering the question "Where did you get that?" with "I made it myself!"

While I love the comfort of a T-shirt, sometimes a basic tee just won't cut it. Romantic rose blooms and leaves, also made from T-shirts, gracefully trail down the neckline of this tee. A monochromatic palette makes this tee super sophisticated. Hit up your local thrift store for extra-large men's tees (they give you more fabric to work with) in different shades of one color.

Materials
Boatneck T-shirt
3 T-shirts in assorted shades complementary to the boatneck tee
Quilting ruler
Self-healing cutting mat
Rotary cutter
Pencil
Card stock
Tailor's chalk
Fabric scissors
Sewing machine and thread in complementary colors
Needle and thread in colors to match T-shirts
Straight pins

Make the Flowers and Leaves

1. Use a quilting ruler and work on a cutting mat using a rotary cutter to cut from the assorted T-shirts the following strips of fabric:
One 6" x 24"/15cm x 60cm
Five 3" x 14"/8cm x 36cm
Three 2" x 9"/5cm x 23cm
Note: You may have to sew a couple of strips together to get a 24"/60cm strip.

2. Trace about a dozen leaves onto the assorted T-shirts. Cut with fabric scissors. Mark simple leaf veins on the leaves with tailor's chalk.

3. Set your sewing machine to a straight stitch and sew veins on the leaves, backstitching at the beginning and end.

4. To make the flowers,
a. Thread a needle with a thread color that matches the T-shirt strip. Knot the thread end and set aside.
b. Fold a T-shirt strip in half lengthwise. Holding each end of the strip with your hands, with the folded edge at the top, fold the upper left corner down so that the raw side edge of the strip meets the bottom edge of the strip, forming a 45-degree angle. (See figure 1.)

c. Start rolling the first few inches of the left side of the strip to make the center of the rose. (See figure 2.) Sew through the bottom edges of the flower center to secure.

d. Fold the strip at a 45-degree angle next to the flower center and roll flower center onto the fold. (See figure 3.) Sew bottom edge to secure. Repeat folding the strip, rolling the flower onto fold, and stitching to secure, until there's no fabric left.

e. Tuck the final end of strip under the flower and sew to secure.
f. Repeat all the steps to form flowers from each T-shirt strip.

Assemble the T-Shirt

1. Lay the boatneck T-shirt out on a flat, clean surface. With the T-shirt facing you, pin the largest rose just slightly left of the center of the shirt. Pin two leaves below the rose. With a needle and thread, hand-stitch to the shirt to secure. Remove the pins.
2. Cluster four roses to the left of the large rose and accent with leaves as desired. Pin, hand-stitch to secure, and remove the pins.
3. Pin clusters of leaves trailing up the neckline of the T-shirt to cover the rest of the left side of the neckline. Hand-stitch to secure, then remove the pins.
4. Cluster four roses to the right of the T-shirt in a different formation than the one on the left and accent with leaves as desired. Pin, hand-stitch to secure, and remove the pins.
5. Pin clusters of leaves trailing up the neckline of the T-shirt to cover the rest of the right side of the neckline. Hand-stitch to secure, and then remove the pins.

Thanks to Kayte Terry and the good folks at Chronicle Books for sharing this project with us. For more modern embellishments, check out Appliqué Your Way.

More How-Tuesday Posts | Supplies Category | DIY Made Simple Gift Guide

How-Tuesday: Gore-Fest 2009 3D Blood Spatter Effect

2009-10-27T14:00:00-05:00

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We are so excited to be collaborating with Meg, a.k.a. Enderby, of Threadbanger fame for this creepy-cute Halloween how-to! Horror movie buffs and fans of television's forensic blood splatter analyst (and serial killer) Dexter are sure to be inspired. Here's Meg with all the gory details...

This October, let's take on new and unique creepy Halloween decor instead of the same old orange and black motif. In today's How-Tuesday, Etsy and Threadbanger team up to create a 3-dimensional blood spatter effect. These murder scene recreations are blood-chilling decor, and they make a fun and interactive backdrop for your Halloween party's photo booth. This will surely creep you and your guests out and will go over quite well with the serial killers in attendance.

For this project you will need:

Red felt
Red yarn
A needle (with an eye large enough for the yarn)
Red tacks
Recycled cereal box or cardboard for the template
Pen, chalk and/or pins

Instructions

1. Sketch out the shape of your pool of blood and create a template. If you don't want to draw your own, click on the spatter image on the right to open the full size file in a new window. Right click to download.

2. Using the template as a guide, trace and cut out the pool of blood from your red felt.

3. Cut out 50-80 pieces of red yarn that measure 50 inches long, and tie two knots at one end of each piece. The number of pieces of yarn will be determined by the perimeter of your red felt.

4. One by one, thread and pull through each piece of yarn around the perimeter of the blood pool. The yarn pieces should be about 1 centimeter out from the edge, and 1 inch apart from each other. (Tip: We had a little bowl of water on hand to make threading the needle easier.)

5. Take red tacks, or flat-head metal tacks you painted red, and attach your piece to the wall making sure the edges are flat and that all of the yarn hangs loose.

6. Take the pieces of yarn, and pulling them taut, attach to an old microphone stand or tripod. You can use another piece of your red yarn to tie the pieces together and then to the stand. This acts as the point of contact of the wound that created the bloody scene. Stab away and enjoy!

To see more of Meg's DIY home decor projects, check out Decor It Yourself every Wednesday on Threadbanger.com.

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How-Tuesday: Spooky Shadow Puppets by Crankbunny

2009-10-21T16:30:00-05:00

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We're resurrecting this eerie project from last year — crankbunny's shadow puppets are still full of dark delight!

[Originally published October 28, 2008.]

This week on Etsy How-Tuesday, Norma, a.k.a. crankbunny, shows us how to make spooky shadow puppets for Hallow's Eve! MUAHAHAH! crankbunny, a talented animator and artist, often works with layers of paper in her projects. Her animated short, "Robot Gets Its Wings," won 2nd place in our Handmade Moment Contest (and garnered the prize of Community Favorite!).

Today's project is about dead guys and cemeteries! crankbunny has provided the templates for making her signature Gravestone Shadow Puppet and Dead Guy Shadow Puppet. You can use these templates, or come up with your own designs — either way you will most certainly have your own spooky Halloween shadow show.

Things you will need for the Gravestone Shadow Puppet:

Download the template and print it out: Gravestone Shadow Puppet Template
Scissors or Craft Knife (Exacto Art Knife)
Rod (can be bamboo skewer, chopsticks, thin wooden dowel, a stick — the longer, the better)
Tape or Glue (non-toxic please)
Stiff Paper (card stock, cardboard, chipboard, etc.)

How to make the Gravestone Shadow Puppet:

Transfer the puppet template onto stiff paper stock.
- Tip: Print out the template on regular paper, use spray adhesive or glue to adhere the print out onto the stiff paper stock.
Cut out the gravestone puppet using scissors and a craft knife. Remember to also cut out the white areas inside the gravestone puppet.
Attach one end of the rod to the dotted area on the gravestone template using glue or tape.
- Tip: Customize the gravestone shadow puppet by cutting away shapes from it.
By making a few of these, each customized and cut differently, you can make an entire cemetery scene.
Project the shadow puppet by shining a flashlight onto it in a dark room.

Things you will need for the Dead Guy Shadow Puppet:

Download the Dead Guy Shadow Puppet Template and print it out:
- Dead Guy Shadow Puppet Template (page 1)
- Dead Guy Shadow Puppet Template (page 2)
Scissors or Craft Knife (Exacto Art Knife)
Rod (can be bamboo skewer, chopsticks, thin wooden dowel, a stick — the longer, the better)
Tape or Glue (non-toxic please)
String (cotton warp, yarn)
2 Brads (paper fasteners)
Hole punch (regular or 1/8th if you want to get specific)
Drinking Straw
Stiff Paper (card stock, cardboard, chipboard, etc.)

How to make the Dead Guy Shadow Puppet:

Transfer the puppet template onto stiff paper stock.
- Tip: Print out the template on regular paper, use spray adhesive or glue to adhere the print out onto the paper stock.
Cut out the puppet parts using your cutting tools. Punch holes over the indicated circles with Xs. Use the punch and cutting tools to create your own eye shape on the puppet's head.
Attach one end of the rod to the dotted area on the puppet's body shape using glue or tape.
Cut a one inch (3cm) piece of straw. Align the end of the straw with the line found on the lower part of the puppet's body shape. Have it rest against the rod vertically and tape it down securely to the puppet.
Cut 2 pieces of string. Each should be 12" (32cm) in length. Tie the end of each string to the outer hole on each puppet arm.
Make a spacer out of some scrap paper. A spacer is basically a small square of cardboard/heavy paper with a wedge cut into its side.
Join the arms to the body of the puppet with a brad using the spacer. Match the arms by each letter, the uppercase letter part always over the lowercase part. Remove the spacer once the brads are fastened. This will make each joint loose.
Run each string through the top of the straw. Make a looped knot to join both strings together. When you pull the end of the strings, the arms should move up. When you release the strings, the arms should move back down.
- Tip: Customize the shadow puppet by cutting away and adding shapes to it. Adding fangs, horns, buck teeth, pirate hats, hooks, top hats, etc. to customize your puppet.
Project the shadow puppet by shining a flashlight onto it in a dark room.
Have a spooky Halloween!

See more how-to videos on Etsy!

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How-Tuesday: Headless Marie Antoinette Costume From Makezine

2009-10-20T14:00:00-05:00

Okay, people, it's crunch time. There is only one weekend left between now and Halloween, and if you've been a delinquent with purchasing your Gaga hairbows or spider wings, Makezine's got you covered. Today's How-Tuesday is a Headless Marie Antoinette Costume from Nicole Magne. I love how this ensemble is such a harmonious synthesis of sexy and undead. Once you've sculpted yourself a new blue bosom, those zombie-ninja-aliens will be clamoring to buy you your next O Positive cocktail. For more great Halloween DIY ideas, check out the Craftzine blog!

Purchase Makezine's Halloween Special Edition

If there's a holiday made for makers, it's Halloween. On this night, you can proudly wear your most bizarre creation around the neighborhood. Or invite neighbors to explore your elaborate, homemade house of horrors. To celebrate the maker spirit of Halloween, we created this special issue, a joint project from the editorial and design teams of MAKE and CRAFT.

Halloween can be as low-tech or high-tech as you want. You can make scary things in the kitchen or in front of the bathroom mirror. Use a sewing machine or tools in a machine shop. Put a monster puppet on your hand or on a pneumatic device. Turn lights on and off with simple switches or with microcontrollers. One piece of advice we've heard repeatedly: start with a single project one year, and then add another one the next year.

Remember, Halloween is the perfect occasion for out-of-the-box thinkers (especially if the box is a coffin). Halloween allows you to recycle and reuse anything, from clothing to electronics. So let your imagination run wild, and then get together with friends to bring these ideas to life. Halloween is what you make of it, or as Vincent Price once said, "It's as much fun to scare as to be scared."

By Nicole Magne

Everyone knows Halloween is a great opportunity to scare the crap out of your friends and look good doing it. My costume idea was inspired by the Marie Antoinette movie that came out a couple years ago. I found a bunch of great "headless" costumes online that used the basic technique I wanted. Being a fan of zombie flicks, I took this inspiration to the next level, aiming for gory realism.

Materials
TO SCULPT:
Sculpting clay
Plaster of Paris
Sealer and mold release agent for plaster mold (I used Universal Mold Release, and Super Seal sealer)
Urethane liquid flexible foam (I cast the costume bust with FlexFoam-iT X liquid foam)

TO CARVE:
Blue sheet foam insulation (If you'd rather carve, you can use this foam insulation from the hardware store and carve it with a hot wire)

Acrylic paints
Wooden dowels or other piping
Backpack
Fabric
Oversized dress
Long gloves
Cotton stuffing
Wire
Sewing machine

1. Sculpt the bust with clay. I decided to make the bust first, and to create the rest of the costume around it. A hunk of clay and several hours were spent sculpting a creepy, skinny torso with super-fake-looking boobs.

2. Turn the bust into foam. Next, I poured a 2-part plaster mold over the clay bust. Once the mold was removed, I coated the interior with a sealer and release agent, and poured in liquid urethane foam. Once the foam cured, I removed the plaster and was rewarded with a Nerf-like copy of the bust. (Instead of sculpting and casting, you can also carve the bust directly into plain blue sheet insulation foam.) To add a dead skin effect, use acrylic paints, because aerosols won't set.

3. Raise the bust. With my boyfriend Andy's help, I welded a rig to hold the bust above my head. But I suggest using wooden dowels, as they are lighter and cheaper. We used copper pipes because we already had them, and because welding is fun. Measure the dowels to start at the lower back and extend to just above the head. If it's too high, it will ruin the illusion because the arms will look too long — the key to this costume is proportion. We then put a stabilizer at the top — notice mine is slightly too low. I drilled a couple of holes in the foam, inserted the pipes, and poured in leftover foam for sturdiness. I used backpack straps to hold my rig in place. I cut everything off the backpack except for the straps and the back panel. Then I attached long, narrow pockets down the length of the backpack for the pipes to fit into. We salvaged straps with clips from the backpack and used them across the chest to pull the rig tight and vertical. Without that strapping, the whole rig would be completely unstable. I suggest adding a strap across the stomach as well.

4. Dress up Marie. My friend Temperance McDonald helped me with the sewing. I lucked out and got the main dress at the thrift store for $3. I put on the backpack and bust, and then we put the dress over it. We now knew where to cut out holes for my head and arms.

Next, we made the top skirt out of a large scrap of fabric for $15 — this created the illusion of a waist (really my neck). It's basically a cape, with a hole through the right side for my arm, which connects through to the lower half of the right sleeve. With my left arm hidden underneath the top skirt, and my right hand in plain view in a bloodied glove, I was free to use both hands whenever I needed.

The left arm was a fake — a wire skeleton wrapped in cotton batting, stuffed into a long glove sewn closed to the end of the sleeve. It was completely posable and was tacked into place once the costume was on. The shoulders and arm were stuffed with cotton to fill them out. Makeup, hair, and blood-red paint helped to finish the effect.

Although this costume may appear uncomfortable, I had excellent mobility. I could move my head, dance around, get into cars (headfirst), and have a great time. Variations on this costume could include The Corpse Bride in a wedding outfit or Lumberjack Who Cut Off His Head With a Chainsaw. Keep in mind that the shorter you are, the better this illusion will work — I'm 5'8", so the entire costume was over 6' high for me.

Looking for more gruesome glamor? Check out a copy of Makezine's Halloween Special Edition for a DIY Halloween extravaganza! Thanks to Nicole Magne and the good folks at Makezine for sharing this project with us.

More How-Tuesday Posts | Supplies Category | DIY Made Simple Gift Guide

Halloween Costumes Guide | Halloween Category

How-Tuesday: Button-Down Shirt From Design-It-Yourself Clothes

2009-10-13T15:20:00-05:00

Trying on clothes in fitting rooms tends to be a less than inspiring experience. Puckering, pulling, shifting, and stretching — the garment quickly becomes an obstacle in itself. Cal Patch's book, Design-It-Yourself Clothes, is built on an inherently sensible premise: perfect fit comes from custom patterns. Cal's approach that every sewer deserves to empower herself through learning the craft of patternmaking, is both encouraging and liberating. Each project in this foundational manual builds upon the previous one, so a basic shirt turns into a jacket turns into a dress.

For this week's How-Tuesday, we're sharing the button-down shirt; I hope the skills you learn in creating this pattern will equip you for exploring the next frontier in your designs. Since this project is rich with information, I've included an excerpt below, but you can download the full how-to (for free!) as a PDF here.

Purchase Design-It-Yourself Clothes

Picture this: You're out shopping, maybe at your favorite vintage shop, maybe at a fancy designer boutique, and you see something familiar. Hmm. Where have you seen that dress before, you wonder. In a magazine? A movie? Oh wait, you remember! You've seen it in your dreams!

You try it on, and for a moment, you are enraptured: Life is complete! You will forevermore be the one envied at every party for what you are wearing. But then you do a reality check. The color, now that you are thinking clearly, doesn't suit you at all. The fabric is a little more synthetic than you'd like. The waist is actually too small, and wouldn't it be way dreamier with a wider, kimono-esque sleeve? And a different neckline? Not to mention longer, with more flare at the hemline, and some shirring at the bust? And again, you realize, this scenario is all too familiar: You know exactly what you want and you've got the sewing skills to pull it off, if only there weren't that one, teensy-weensy recurring problem: the pattern. Even the best seamstress needs one, but a pattern for the vision in your head just plain does not exist. Yet.

It's no secret that sewing is the new hot craft — more people are sewing now than ever before. Sooner or later, most stitchers want to tackle more advanced projects, namely clothing. This is where the trouble sets in. The problem isn't in the sewing, but in the pattern. Unfortunately, finding the perfect pattern for what you want to make can be anywhere from difficult to impossible. The sewing pattern industry, with a few noteworthy exceptions, doesn't seem to be quite in sync with the surge in modern sewers — sewers who want to make clothes that look like what they might buy at their favorite retailers.

The new generation of indie seamstresses is watching Project Runway, reading ReadyMade and Selvedge, and shopping at small boutiques selling one-offs by local designers. You know what you want to wear but can't always find it on a rack. You know how to sew but don't see patterns that resemble what you want to make. You do want to make a unique look based on your own personal taste, influences, and body type. And you need the freedom to create patterns as your taste evolves over time. What's an intrepid stitcher to do?

Well, the obvious answer is to learn how to make your own sewing patterns! Patternmaking is an age-old art form, which, at its core, is extremely simple. The clothing we currently wear tends to be relatively simple from a patternmaker's point of view. We don't wear finely tailored suits or dresses with princess seams, darts, and gussets. We wear simple knit tops, skirts, loose dresses, basic woven shirts, and pants. Their style tends to come from details, as opposed to dramatic or complicated cut and construction. Thus, it's quite possible to teach today's sewers how to make their own patterns. And this book does just that in a fun, concise volume for the modern girl.

There are other reasons, besides the lack of selection, to learn how to make patterns. For example, three little letters: F-I-T. Fit can make or break a look. Whether shopping for clothing or patterns, finding ones that fit is frequently a struggle. This is because clothing manufacturers can't possibly make clothes to fit every conceivable body height, width, shape, and every combination of those factors. So they aim for the middle ground and hope for the best. Commercial sewing patterns have the same problem, though they do offer the possibility of simple adjustments, like altering length or combining two sizes in different areas to approximate your body. But only building a pattern from scratch, around your own personal set of numbers, can ultimately result in a garment that fits like it was made for you. Because it was!

Basic Shirt

There's nothing more classic than a woven collared shirt. Whether it's a menswear-style button-down, a Western cowboy-inspired number, or a girly, ruffly blouse, woven shirts are infinitely versatile and wearable. Feel like making one? You've got lots of options for fabric: cotton shirtings, quilting prints, eyelet, voile, chambray, pinwale cord, really almost any light- to medium-weight woven will do!

Let's talk for just a minute about functional ease. Whereas a knit shirt can be exactly the same measurements as (or even smaller than) your body, woven shirts require a bit of breathing room. Because they don't stretch, woven fabrics can't move and bend with you the way knits do. So giving yourself a little space between your skin and the garment will allow you to reach, twist, laugh, and dance without fear of busting a stitch! Functional ease subsequently will be referred to as FE.

Measurements
Bust circumference + FE* (at the fullest point)
Waist circumference + FE*
Distance from HSP (High shoulder point) down to waist
Hip circumference + FE* (where you want the bottom of the shirt to be)
Length of shirt (HSP to hem)
Shoulder width + 1/4" FE**
Neck width**
Front neck drop
Sleeve length
Bicep circumference + 1/4" FE**
Wrist circumference + 1/4" FE**

*For each of these horizontal measurements, divide by four. These quarter measurements will be the ones you use for drafting the pattern. They will be referred to as quarter-bust, quarter-waist, and quarter-hip.

**Divide these measurements by two. These will be referred to as half-shoulder, half-neck, etc.

Determining your armhole measurement
When measuring the armhole of a garment, we usually just measure a straight line (even though the actual armhole is a curve) from the point where the shoulder seam intersects the sleeve, down to the point where the underarm seam meets the side seam. A standard armhole measurement for a medium-sized fitted T-shirt is about 7" to 7 1/2". To figure out what will be best for you, grab some favorite tops from your closet and measure the armholes. If they tend toward 6 1/2-7", go with 6 3/4", and likewise if they're bigger. Or if you know your shirts always feel as if they're pinching at the pits, or conversely if you usually feel as if you're swimming in them, add or subtract an inch accordingly. You'll fine-tune this once you make a muslin and try it on, so for now just take your best guess.

Determining your front neck drop and neck width
For this woven shirt we will be making a collar, and your neck drop and width will determine the placement of the seam where the collar is attached to the shirt. Therefore, the drop should be a fairly traditional placement, right at the base of your neck where your two clavicle bones meet. On me, that's at about 3 1/2" down from my high shoulder point (HSP). The width should be the distance between your two HSPs. On me, that's about 7". You can play around with more adventurous collars and seams when you've got a little more experience, but for now let's just keep it simple!

For the rest of this how-to, download the PDF here.

Looking for more patternmaking inspiration? Check out a copy of Design-It-Yourself Clothes to kick-start your new wardrobe. Thanks to Cal Patch and the good folks at Potter Craft for sharing this project with us.

More How-Tuesday Posts | Supplies Category | DIY Made Simple Gift Guide

How-Tuesday: Three Projects From the Blogosphere

2009-10-06T14:00:00-05:00

In true DIY fashion, Etsians know that craft expertise doesn't necessarily have to come from book deals or extensive degrees. Sharing the bliss of trying something new and learning tips along the way is ever-present in the Etsy community. This week's How-Tuesday is a sampling of some of the fresh tutorials Etsy members are exhibiting on their blogs, including reupholstering a thrift store sofa courtesy of jstephens13, vibrant watercolor portraits from SusanFaye, and delicate wire knot rings thanks to decors. What I love most about these how-to's is the emphatic encouragement and excitement throughout, sure to ignite your creative fire.

Loveseat Upholstery from jstephens13

An all furniture thrift store was recently introduced to my town. Being forever inspired by "old treasures made new," I immediately gravitated to the Vine Home Thrift. Having spent the last 20 years sewing, creating and designing smaller scale pieces of fashion, recently, I have been pushing for something more, something larger!

My first upholstery installation was an 80s headboard passed down from my parents years ago (a large half-moon shape with plenty of faux bois paneling). From there I covered many dining chairs, a headboard for my sons’ toddler bed...mostly 1-sided objects. When I found a sweet little loveseat on sale for $10 at my NEW FAVORITE STORE, I knew I had nothing to lose.

The emotion and therapy available in tearing a piece of furniture limb from limb is fantastic; stretching your chosen fabric tightly for a finished look can be breathtaking. Upholstery immediately grabbed me. Returning to the store and feeling a bit cocky, I sought the ugliest monstrosity in the store.

This photo tutorial will demonstrate upholstery techniques and furniture modification (once an enormous davenport/sleeper sofa, now a modern loveseat). Re-use what you can, seek new where needed, and in the end, curl up with a great book!

You can find my upholstery tutorial here.

Watercolor Portrait from SusanFaye

For me, watercolor painting is all about the luminosity, flow, and clarity of colors. I began flirting with watercolor during high school, took a class in college, and designed and marketed my first set of watercolor notecards shortly thereafter. Happiness ensued until a chance encounter with clay distracted me for the next 20 years as I became consumed with all things ceramic, porcelain and stoneware. Then carpal tunnel syndrome reared its ugly head. Clay and I were forced to part ways.

It was then that I took up again with my old flame, watercolor, and discovered true bliss. In addition to painting and selling traditional nature studies of flora and fauna, I also create whimsical custom Pet People portraits right here on Etsy in my shop. I have painted portraits of feline fanatics from across the U.S., plus cat ladies and lads in Canada, Great Britain, Greece, and Finland! You can see many of these portraits and read their stories on my daily blog.

As an occasional workshop instructor, I have discovered that watercolor is one of the most-feared mediums in the art world. Trust me when I tell you, it DOES NOT have to be so scary! I have put together a step-by-step tutorial on "How to Paint a Cat Lady and Lad" in a fun, illustrative style that I hope will inspire you to give it a try!

I cover a few watercolor basics such as materials, tools, and color mixing, then show simple techniques for creating an image by painting just one section or shape at a time, with a little blending and layering. Just remember to take your time, and if you goof up, IT'S ONLY PAPER! It's okay to try, try again as many times as you want to (as long as you remember to recycle all that paper)!

Important note: It is not cheating to trace, or to pencil in your lines first! (I once "got hell" from a student who had been taught at parochial school that tracing was CHEATING!) A real artist knows this simple rule of thumb: Try everything, and whatever works, just do it... and have FUN!

You can find my watercolor how-to here.

Wire Knot Ring from decors

Born and raised in the bustling suburb of Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, I graduated from my adopted home of Melbourne, Australia, with a Bachelor's Degree in Computing. Starting with basic jewelry craft in December 2007, I quickly moved on to wire jewelry two weeks later and was instantly hooked. Thinking of a way to innovate, I realized that the art of Chinese knotting would introduce a certain je ne sais quoi to my creations, and thus began my fascination and passion for creation in this style and medium.

Amidst the encouragement that accompanied my first tutorial, though, there were some who felt that I should be writing tutorials in my mother tongue, on the narrow-minded pretext of there being a glut of tutorials for the English speaking audience.

I believe art should live naturally and be expressed as freely as breathing, which is why I continue to write and design as much as I can, in as many languages as I can. Wires taught me to be humble, and I give a short prayer of thanks each time they survive my designs.

You can find my wire knot ring tutorial here.

Do you include how-to's on your blog? Share in the comments below! Thanks to jstephens13, SusanFaye, and decors for these inspiring tutorials. I am grateful for how much I learn every day from the Etsy community!

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How-Tuesday: Frog Suit From Wacky Baby Knits

2009-09-29T15:00:00-05:00

Well, I'm not sure I really need to say anything once you've seen this baby in a frog suit. The cutie patootie inspires me not only to knit, but to reproduce. Since Halloween is only a month away, we picked this week's How-Tuesday according to our early childhood indoctrination program. Alison Jenkins' lovable and cuddly creations introduce your toddler to a lifetime of handmade costumes. You can download the project as a PDF here, or follow along below.

Alison's book, Wacky Baby Knits, has projects to suit any baby's style. With knitted mohawks, biker jackets, and monsters, I think I could find reasons year-round to play dress-up with the little ones. Can't get enough of the gleeful masquerade of children? Cast a vote for your favorite Etsy Halloween kids item here!

Purchase Wacky Baby Knits

One of the many joys of having babies is that you can dress them up in any way you choose. Sadly, this state of affairs is temporary: in a few short years they will have as many opinions about what they will and won't wear as you do. Try getting a three-year-old to wear a cute cow suit if he or she doesn't want to! Take full advantage of the opportunity while it lasts, using this book as your guide and inspiration.

This all-in-one outfit will keep baby snug as a bug — or amphibian — in a rug from head to toe, and the hood even has soft knitted frog eyes. Rows of knitted bobbles along the sleeves and hood add an irresistible tactile texture to the knit, but because the yarn used is very soft the bobbles won't feel lumpy against your baby's skin.

You Will Need
Pair of size 3 (3.25mm) needles
Pair of size 6 (4mm) needles
Size 3 (3.25mm) circular needle
5 (6:7) 2 oz (50g) balls light worsted knitting yarn in color A (green)
Oddment of light worsted knitting yarn in color B (white)
Oddment of light worsted knitting yarn in color C (black)
Tape measure
Stitch holders
Bodkin
17 small green buttons
Small amount of soft toy filling, approximately 1/2 oz (15g)

To Fit Sizes
0-3 months: chest 16 in (41cm)
3-6 months: chest 8 in (46cm)
6-12 months: chest 20 in (51cm)

Gauge
22 stitches and 30 rows to 4 in (10cm), mesured over stockinette stitch, using size 6 (4mm) needles

Special Abbreviation
mb — make bobble
Work to bobble position; purl into the next stitch, then knit into the same stitch. Repeat once more, then purl once. You will have made five extra stitches. Use the tip of the left-hand needle to pass the first four extra stitches over the last to form the looped bobble. Work to next bobble position, and repeat.

Back

LEGS (MAKE 2 ALIKE)
Using size 3 (3.25mm) needles and col A, cast on 16 (16:18) sts.
Work in k 1, p 1 rib for 1 1/4 in (3cm), ending with a rs row.
Increase row with ws facing: rib 4 (2:3), then *m 1, rib 1 st; rep from * to last 3 (2:2) sts, m 1, then rib to end. (26 [29:32] sts.)
Change to size 6 (4mm) needles, and cont in st st until work measures 8 (8 3/4:9 1/2) in [20 (22:24)cm] from cast-on edge, ending with a ws row.
Transfer sts to a stitch holder.

BODY
Join legs to form body: work across sts from one leg, then work sts held on stitch holder from the other leg.
Cont in st st on these 52 (58:64) sts until work measures 8 1/2 (9:9 1/2) in [22(23:24)cm] from the crotch join, ending with a ws row.

RAGLAN DECREASE
Bind off 3 sts at beg of next 2 (2:2) rows **, then dec 1 st at both ends of next and every alt row until there are 18 (20:22) sts, ending with a ws row.
Leave sts on a stitch holder.

Front

Work as back to **.

DIVIDE FOR FRONT OPENING
With rs facing, begin raglan shaping as follows: dec 1 st, knit 18 (21:24) sts, turn, and place the rem sts on a stitch holder. Work 1 row in st st. Cont dec 1 st at same end of next and every alt row until there are 11 (12:15) sts.
Work 1 row in st st.

NECKLINE SHAPING
With rs facing, dec 1 st, work to last 2 sts, dec 1 st. Dec 1 st at neck edge of next 3 (4:5) rows, while continuing the raglan shaping at the armhole edge. There are now 5 (4:6) sts. Dec 1 st at armhole edge only on rs rows until 2 sts rem.
Place rem 2 sts on a stitch holder:
Slip the sts for the right front from the stitch holder onto your needle, and rejoin col A.
Bind off the first 6 sts, then cont following pattern instructions to make the right front section, remembering to reverse the raglan and neckline shapings.
Place rem 2 sts on a stitch holder.

Sleeve (make 2 alike)

Using size 3 (3.25mm) needles and col A, cast on 26 (29:31) sts.
Work in k 1, p 1 rib for 1 1/4 in (3cm) ending with a rs row.

INCREASE ROW WITH WS FACING
First size: rib 3, then *m 1, rib 3; rep from * to last 2 sts, inc 1 st, then rib to end. (34 sts.)
Second and third sizes: rib (3:4), *inc 1 st, rib 3; rep from * to last (2:3) sts, inc 1 st, rib to end.
There are now 34 (38:40) sts. Change to size 6 (4mm) needles and begin patt as follows:
Cont in st st for 4 rows.
Next row (bobble row): with rs facing, work 4 (6:7) sts *mb, work 4 sts; rep from * to last 0 (2:3) sts, k0 (2:3).
Work 5 rows, then work bobble row, keeping bobbles in same position vertically.
Cont in patt.
Inc 1 st at both ends of 2nd (2nd:2nd) row, then at both ends of every foll 6th (10th:10th) row until you have 40 (44:48) sts. Work 5 (7:9) rows.

RAGLAN DECREASE
Bind off 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows, then dec 1 st at both ends of next and every alt row until 6 sts remain.
Leave rem 6 sts on stitch holder.

Hood

With rs facing, using size 6 (4mm) needles and col A, pick up and knit 10 (12:14) sts up right front neck, k across sts on front and first sleeve stitch holders, across back neck work *k 1, m 1; rep from * to last st, k 1, k across sts on second sleeve and front stitch holders, then pick up and k10 (12:14) sts down left front neck. (71 [79:87] sts.)
Purl 1 row.
Cont in st st until hood measures 7 (7 1/2:8) in [18(19:20)cm], ending with a ws row, then bind off 22 (26:30) sts at beg of next 2 rows.
With rs facing, cont on rem sts and patt as follows:
Cont in st st for 4 rows.
Next row: with rs facing, work 3 (3:4) sts *mb, work 4 sts; rep from * to last 4 (4:4) sts, mb, work to end.
Work 5 rows, then work bobble row, keeping bobbles in same position vertically.
Cont in patt for a further 4 1/4 (5 1/4:6) in [11 (13:15)cm], ending with a ws row.
Bind off all sts, and fasten off securely.
Using a bodkin and col A, join hood seams.

Button band and buttonhole band for front opening and hood

Using a size 3 (3.25mm) circular needle, pick up and knit 17 (19:19) sts along right front opening to neck, then 42 (46:50) sts along right side of hood to seam, 27 (27:27) sts across hood center front to other seam, 42 (46:50) sts down left side of hood, and 17 (19:19) sts along left front opening.
Work in k 1, p 1 rib for 3 rows.
Buttonhole row: Rib 3 sts, *ym, k2tog, rib 4; rep from * another 2 times, then rib to end.
Rib for 3 more rows, then bind off all sts in rib, and fasten off securely.

Button band and buttonhold band for leg opening

BUTTON BAND
With rs facing, using size 3 (3.25mm) needles and col A, pick up and knit 45 (51:57) sts evenly along inside leg edge of back to crotch, beg at the ankle rib of the left leg then pick up and knit 46 (52:58) sts from crotch to the edge of the right ankle rib. Work in k 1, p 1 rib for 7 rows, then bind off all sts in rib and fasten off securely.

BUTTONHOLE BAND
With rs facing, using size 3 (3.25mm) needles and col A, pick up and knit 45 (51:57) sts evenly along inside leg edge of front to crotch, beg at the ankle rib of the right leg, then pick up and knit 46 (52:58) sts from crotch down to the edge of the left ankle rib. Work in rib for 3 rows.
Buttonhole row: Rib 4, *ym, k2tog, rib 5 (6:7); 3 more rows, then bind off all sts in rib, and fasten off securely.

Eyes and eyelids (make 2 of each)

Using size 3 (3.25mm) needles and col A for eyelids (col B for eyes), cast on 18 (24:30) sts. Purl 1 row, then cont in st st for 6 (10:12) rows.
Next row: *k 1, k2tog; rep from * to end. Break off yarn, then draw it through the rem sts, pull together tightly, and fasten off securely.

Nostrils (make 2)

Using size 3 (3.25mm) needles and col A, cast on 15 (18:21) sts.
Purl 1 row, then cont in st st for 6 (8:10) rows.
Next row: *k 1, k2tog; rep from * to end. Break off yarn, then draw it through rem sts, pull together tightly, and fasten off securely.

Sewing together

Join raglan, sleeve and side seams. Weave in all loose ends neatly on the reverse.
Overlap the bands and sew the lower edges to the bound-off edge at the center front opening.
Sew buttons onto lower left front side of button band to correspond with buttonholes.

SEWING TOGETHER EYES AND EYELIDS
Join eye seam, and stuff each with a small amount of toy filling. Sew the cast-on edges to the hood at the end of the seam near the crown. Take an eyelid, and wrap it around the back part of the eye, so that the cast-on edge forms the lid around the eye. Sew the other edge to the hood around the base of the eye.

SEWING TOGETHER NOSTRILS
The cast-on edge represents the opening of each nostril; sew the other edge to the hood close to the seams at the front.
Weave in all loose ends neatly on the reverse. Finally, use a small amount of yarn in col C to make large stitches at the front of each eyeball to represent pupils.

Looking for more knitted baby costumes? Check out a copy of Wacky Baby Knits for the cutest inspiration you'll ever need. Thanks to Alison Jenkins and the good folks at Perigee for sharing this project with us.

More How-Tuesday Posts | Supplies Category | DIY Made Simple Gift Guide

How-Tuesday: Lunch Bag From Bend the Rules With Fabric

2009-09-01T15:37:00-05:00

Lunchtime at school is an hour of politics: jockeying to get the prime seat, trading tuna fish for fruit roll-ups, and gossiping through juice-stained lips. In an effort to endow you or your child with some social clout, this week's How-Tuesday project is a vintage-inspired lunch bag from Amy Karol's book, Bend the Rules With Fabric. Whether you're going back to school or bringing leftovers to work, this reusable pouch will induce cupcake-worthy envy. Amy's book is all about customizing fabric to fit your style, so the best part of this project is that you could make one for every kid in your class and still feel unique!

Purchase Bend the Rules With Fabric

As a kid, I loved altering my own clothes and fabrics. I was constantly drawing on shoes and T-shirts, embroidering my jeans, and adding bits of trim to all kinds of things. Later, in high school, I airbrushed T-shirts for my first paying craft gig. This was when I had my first sense that I was going to live a life filled with art and design — and a whole lot of messes.

There is something thrilling about marking up fabric. It's easier than ever to learn how to customize fabric — you don't have to take a college-level surface-design class. Nor do you need to break the bank buying supplies in vast quantities: Suppliers have made it easy to get materials, and much of what you need you already have around the house or can find at fabric or craft stores. Look in your kitchen! Stamping can be as simple and inexpensive as using a cut potato and some paint.

We Have the Technology

You don't need a computer to customize your projects, but it sure adds to the fun. A computer, printer, and — even better — a scanner open up a whole world of possibilities. Even though you might use a computer for some of these techniques, that doesn't mean the images have to look digitally created. So many examples of uses for printed fabric sheets involve photos, which is great, but that doesn't even skim the surface of what you can do. For example, you can paint a real watercolor onto paper, scan it, and then print it onto fabric. Wow! You now have the look of a watercolor (a very tricky thing to do directly on fabric) printed onto your fabric from your computer. Same goes with drawing, painting — all of that. The computer is just a tool.

Lunch Bag

I love packing a lunch, and I like to do it in style. Why use disposable paper bags when you can reuse supercute ones? Adorn this clever lunch bag with your favorite images from magazines or books. The fabric for this bag has an image scanned from a vintage magazine, complete with a cookie recipe. This project uses only three photo fabric sheets (or homemade sheets with Bubble Jet Set 2000), and the pattern cleverly uses 8 1/2" x 11" (21.5 x 28cm) sheets, so you won't waste any fabric. Once you make one of these, you'll be hooked.

Finished Size
10 3/8" high x 6 1/4" wide x 3 1/2" deep (26 x 16 x 9cm), unfolded

Materials
Outer bag fabric: (3) 8 1/2" x 11" (21.5 x 28cm) photo fabric sheets for your printer or copier, or homemade sheets using Bubble Jet Set 2000, cut after printing into:

(2) 6 1/2" x 11" (16.5 x 28cm) front pieces
(2) 4 1/4" x 11" (11 x 28cm) side pieces
(2) 6 1/2" x 11" (16.5 x 28cm) front pieces
(2) 4 1/4" x 11" (11 x 28cm) side pieces
(2) 6 1/2" x 4 1/2" (16.5 x 11.5cm) bottom*

Binding:

(1) 2" x 20" (5 x 51cm) piece of fabric for homemade binding, or, if using premade binding, (1) package (3 yards [2.7m]) of 7/8"-(22mm-)wide single-fold bias tape

(1) 1" x 2" (2.5 x 5cm) piece of Velcro (optional)
Vintage magazines or other images to copy
Printer
Sewing machine

Seam Allowance
1/4" (6mm)

*One bottom lining piece is used for the bottom of the outer bag.

1. Prepare your artwork by scanning and printing it onto your fabric at home, or make color copies of it and print it onto color copier fabric sheets at the copy shop. You will need 3 printed sheets total.

For printing images onto fabric sheets, there are two primary options. The easiest is to use sheets designed for your printer (or copier) that have fabric on one side. They come in different fabric types, are usually only white or cream, and can be quite stiff. Several brands make them, and they can be found at most craft and fabric stores. Some things to keep in mind: Not all brands are waterproof/washable, so don't assume they are; read the fine print and care instructions carefully, making sure to check the type of fabric used (a twill is very different from a cotton poplin) and make sure to purchase sheets compatible with your printer. The second option is to create your own fabric sheets. Bubble Jet Set 2000 is a liquid solution that enables you to make your own fabric printer sheets. You can use whatever fabric you want, as long as it is 100-percent cotton or silk. You can save a ton of money. The fabric feels better than premade fabric sheets and is much easier to work with. You also can use colored fabric.

2. Cut out the outer bag pieces from your printed fabric. Cut out the lining pieces and binding strip if you are making binding. (Skip this step if you are using premade binding.)

3. Make the outer bag: With right sides facing, sew the long sides together on the front and side pieces, creating a box without a top or bottom. With right sides together, pin a lining bottom piece onto the front and side pieces. Sew carefully, flaring out the sides and front, stopping and pivoting with your needle down at each corner.

4. Repeat step 3 with the lining fabric.

5. Turn the outer bag right side out. Place the lining bag inside the outer fabric bag, wrong sides together. This will now look exactly like it will when it is done, minus the binding. Baste around the top edge to keep the layers together.

6. Make binding by ironing your strip in half lengthwise. It will now be 1" x 20" (2.5 x 51cm). Align the raw edges of the binding and the top of the bag and lay out on the printed side of the bag, right sides together. Fold the short end of the tape over so there is no raw edge, and stitch using a 1/4" (6mm) seam allowance from the edge. Flip the folded edge to the inside on the bag, and hand-stitch it to the lining.

7. To create the closure, machine-stitch one Velcro piece centered just under the binding along the top edge of one front piece.

Fold the bag over twice toward the other front piece, and mark where the Velcro touches the other front piece. Stitch the opposite Velcro piece onto the other front piece where the two Velcro pieces would touch.

Tips, Hints, and Other Suggestions:

You can make this with a vinyl lining. Plastic-coated fabric like oilcloth can be tricky to stitch with, so try a Teflon presser foot or use masking tape on the edges and sew through all layers to keep the oilcloth from sticking.
Create a cute closure by stitching an elastic band into the binding on one side and adding a button on the outside front instead of the Velcro.

Looking for more ways to innovate with fabric? Check out Bend the Rules With Fabric for ideas in paint, dye, and thread. Thanks to Amy Karol and the good folks at Potter Craft Publishing for sharing this project with us.

More How-Tuesday Posts | Supplies Category | DIY Made Simple Gift Guide

Amy Karol, a.k.a. The Angry Chicken, Was a Guest Curator

How-Tuesday: Tool Apron from Sew What! Bags

2009-07-28T16:23:00-05:00

The only toolbox I've ever known is my overflowing crate of crafting materials. Having my tools organized and easily accessible sounds too good to be true. Every quilter, crocheter, and gardener deserves a handmade tool belt perfectly suited for her needs.

For this week's How-Tuesday, we're sharing Lexie Barnes' Tool Apron project to equip you for a summer of crafting and gardening. Lexie's book, Sew What! Bags, is full of delightful totes, sacks, satchels, and purses that are pattern-free, so you can alter and tweak to your heart's content.

Lexie's Design Principle:

Sewing without a pattern may seem like a scary prospect to some... and liberating to others. Personally, I like the freedom and flexibility of pattern-free sewing. I want a bag to work for me, not the other way around.

I can't stand to read instructional manuals, stick strictly to a recipe, or follow the steps exactly as they are written anywhere. If there are too many steps, I'll skip them. If the instructions are too wordy or full of jargon, I'll ignore them and find my own way of doing things. In this book, from the first project to the last, you'll be able to jump right in and start sewing. You'll find simple steps and streamlined projects — fabulous bags you can make on your own to suit your taste, skill level, and style.

Click here to buy the book!

We made this apron to hold quilting supplies, but you can customize yours for any craft, hobby, or project. Be sure to choose your fabrics and pockets to suit the job. For gardening tools, you'll want canvas or maybe oilcloth. For crochet supplies, you'll want a variety of pocket sizes for slim hooks and skeins of yarn.

Our finished size: 8" x 16" with a 66" belt

Measure and Cut

1. Decide your size. For a good fit, base the size on your favorite kitchen apron, or measure your torso from hip to hip and add a couple of inches for seam allowance. For the height, measure from your waist (or hip, if you like to wear it low) down to anywhere you like. It's your tool apron, so make it as long — or short — as you need it to be.

Ease into it. Figure out how big your pockets need to be before you finalize the size of the apron. Lay your tools out on your fabric and measure them. Be sure to allow for some ease (a little bit of extra room to get your objects in and out of the pockets). Keep your tools handy while you're sewing and test along the way to make sure you've got a good fit.

2. Cut your fabric. Based on your measurements, cut:

primary fabric: one front and one back piece
contrasting fabric: one pocket panel and two belt pieces (We cut ours 4" wide for a finished width of 1 1/2". For the total length of the belt, we measured around the waist, and then added 16" for tying the ends.)

Put it Together

3. Make the pocket. Press under the top edge of pocket panel 1/4", then repeat for another 1/2". Edgestitch along the bottom fold. With right sides facing up, pin the pocket panel to front apron panel. Based on your measurements, stitch dividers for your pockets, backtacking at the top of the pocket panel. There's no need to stitch the sides or bottom, as that will happen in the next step.

4. Assemble the apron. Lay the back apron piece on top of the front piece, right sides together. Stitch the sides and bottom, leaving the top of the apron open. Clip the corners, trim the seam allowance, turn the apron right side out, and press. Fold under the top edge 1/2" to the inside, press, and topstitch.

5. Make and attach the belt. With right sides facing, stitch the two belt pieces together to make one long strip. Press under the edges 1/2" on all sides, fold it in half lengthwise, and topstitch.* Center the belt on top of the apron, aligning the top edges of the belt and apron. Pin the belt in place and topstitch it to the apron along the length (following the stitching on both sides of the belt), backtacking at the ends.

*More Details for Making Straps:

1. Fold the strip of fabric in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press along the fold. Open up the strip, press each side under 1/2".

2. Refold the strip with the sides tucked in, and edgestitch along the length of both sides for greater strength.

For Larger Straps and Belts:
For a wider strap that will be used as a belt, the method is the same, but turn under the ends 1/2" before refolding. If the fabric is bulky, trim away excess fabric at the folded corners, then stitch across the folded ends.

Once you try out this Tool Apron, be sure to post photos of it in the Sew What! Bags Flickr pool! Your images could be featured on Lexie's website.

Thanks to Lexie Barnes and the good folks at Storey Publishing for sharing this useful project with us! Looking for more How-Tuesday posts? Check out our archive here.

How-Tuesday: Nightlife Necklace with Diana Eng

2009-06-30T14:30:00-05:00

Welcome to another How-Tuesday. This week's project, "NightLife Necklace," is a fun LED jewelry project from our friend Diana Eng's new book, Fashion Geek. Etsy members receive 10% off their purchase from North Light Books. (Use promotional code: ETSY10 at checkout.)

Diana has been on the cover of ID magazine (check out the inflatable dress!), a contestant on Project Runway, a winner of Yahoo! Hackday, and is a founding member of NYC Resistor.

How did you get your start as a designer?
My grandmother taught me to sew when I was eight. I started sewing little skirts and stuffed animals for myself, and one of my favorite make-believe games was dress shop.

What got you into working with technology as a medium?
I always liked math, science, and computer programming. In fact, in grade school I was a big science fair nerd. One day I just thought it would be neat to combine my two interests, technology and fashion.

Other than your book, can you name some references for getting started learning how to use and work with electronics?
For electronics I constantly reference Forrest Mims' Getting Started in Electronics book. It really taught me a lot about how electronics work.

There are some great tutorials on Instructables for using conductive thread.

Can you name any designers that you find really inspiring that work with both fashion/design and technology/geekery?
Issey Miyake was the designer I first learned of who experimented with new technology and fashion. Though he never dabbled in electronics, he did work with computer programmers for his APOC project. Hussein Chalayan currently does runway fashion with electronics and collaborates with geeky folk such as Moritz Waldemeyer.

What else inspires you to design the types of things that you typically design?
I am fascinated by science and always find myself looking into things out of curiosity (such as biomimetics or ferrofluid). These curiosities inspire my designs.

Outside of the latest "technology" in fabrics and materials that outdoor apparel companies boast about using, does experimental technology/electronics have a place in high fashion or the future of clothing design?
Yes, I think that experimental tech/electronics have a place in creating different aesthetic effects. There are certainly new looks that can only be created with electronics. A lot of designers are looking to bring new looks to customers through technology. For example, Prada created a special oil slick looking two toned leather through new technology a few seasons back. Versace reinvented Versus as an R&D department.

Do you think of fashion as an art form? Do you think of technology as an artform?
I think that couture fashion is an art form. The materials used to create couture are so precious and the techniques are so difficult that couture pieces are one of a kind works of art.

I think that technology is a new medium for creating art. Artists will still need to know how to draw or sculpt, but they will be using technology as the new medium to create their art. Maybe one day there will be fashion created with technology that is so expensive and so difficult to make that only a one of a kind peice can be created.

And now for Diana's How-Tuesday project! The Nightlife Necklace uses LEDs as luminescent gemstones to create a necklace that glimmers at night. Perhaps this is something that people will think about in future tech couture.

Download the PDF of this project from Diana's book. (This file may take a while to load.)

Materials Needed:

Tools for the Job:

1-6 small LED's (size 3mm or T1)
Photoresistor
6 pony beads to fit LED's
1 large bead to fit photoresistor
Chain, approximately 14" or 36cm in length
4 jump rings
4 ribbon crimp ends
Lobster claw clasp
Conductive thread
Coin cell battery (CR2032)
Battery holder (BS7)
Electrical solder
1/2 yard x 1" or 46cm x 3cm ribbon

1 set of alligator clip jumper wires
Fine-grit sandpaper
Needle-nose pliers
Wire cutter
Soldering iron
Craft and fabric glue
Rotary tool (optional)
Domed abrasive point or drill bit (optional)
Sewing needle
Scissors

Note: Use six or fewer LEDs in your design. The battery is strong enough to power six LEDs, but more than six lights will result in lights that won’t be very bright.

Step 1: Test Fit	Step 2: Sand Beads
Test to make sure each LED will fit snugly in a pony bead. I used white LEDs and white beads, but feel free to add color and mix it up.	Use fine-grit sandpaper to sand the outside edges of the pony beads and the large bead to create a matte finish.

Step 3: Insert Photoresistor

Insert the photoresistor into the large bead. If necessary, use the rotary tool and a drill bit or domed abrasive point to widen the opening so the photoresistor will fit. Use a wire cutter to trim ½" (1cm) off 1 of the leads on the photoresistor. Use needle-nose pliers to create a loop on the end of
this lead.

Step 4: Create, Design, and Add LED's

Create a design with the pony beads. Insert an LED into each pony bead. Use a wire cutter to cut ½" (1cm) off the short lead of 1 of the LEDs. (For this design, I chose the middle LED on the left, as shown in the photo at left.) Use needle-nose pliers to then create a loop in this shortened lead.

Step 5: Solder LED Leads and Photoresistor

Bend all of the LED leads so that each short lead is touching another short lead and each long lead is touching at least one other long lead. (Make sure no short lead is touching a long lead) Trim the leads with wire cutters if needed. Use a soldering iron to solder the leads where they touch. Test each connection after you solder it. Add the photoresistor bead and solder the long photoresistor lead to the long lead of the closest LED.

Step 6: Attatch Chain and Add Conductive Thread

Cut 2 lengths of chain to the desired length (I cut mine to 7" [18cm] each) using wire cutters. Cut 2 lengths of conductive thread, each of which is double the length from the LEDs to the chain’s clasp (in this case about 14" [36cm] each). Tie a knot with 1 length of conductive thread onto the LED lead loop you created in step 4. Secure the knot with a dab of fabric glue, and cut the excess short thread. Test the connection. Attach 1 jump ring to the chain and then to the loop. Thread a sewing needle with the long strand of tied conductive thread, and use the needle to feed the conductive thread through each of the chain’s links. Repeat with the second length of conductive thread (threading it through the second chain) and the photoresistor loop you created in step 3.

Step 7: Fold Ribbon

Use scissors to cut a length of ribbon that when attached to the ends of the necklace will be long enough for you to slide the necklace over your head (I cut mine to 18" [46cm]). Trim the ends at a 45-degree angle to prevent the ribbon from fraying. At 3" (8cm) from 1 end, fold in the sides of the ribbon toward the middle. Fold the ribbon on itself and attach a ribbon crimp end. Make sure a bit of the fold sticks out at the edges of the crimp; you will use this later. Repeat at the other end of the ribbon.

Step 8: Attatch Ribbon

Use needle-nose pliers to open 2 jump rings and insert 1 in the loop of each ribbon crimp end. Attach 1 end of each chain onto each jump ring. Insert the needle with the thread from the photoresistor through the fold of ribbon that sticks out of the edge of the ribbon crimp end on that side of the necklace.

Step 9: Attatch Battery Holder

Continuing with the thread from the photoresistor, sew the conductive thread around the positive contact of the battery holder (BS7), being careful to not sew on the extra portion of ribbon that folds over (this portion will cover the battery holder). Repeat the sewing instructions in step 8 with the conductive thread from the LED loop. Sew the conductive thread from the LED loop across the edge of the ribbon to the battery holder. Use this thread to sew around the negative contact of the battery holder. Knot the thread and cut the excess. Attach a lobster claw clasp to the jump ring on one of the crimps.

To wear the necklace, place the ribbon over your head, as shown on page 44, or for a more elegant look, clasp the chains together and let the ribbon loop in the back.

Note: Put the battery in the holder to turn the necklace on; take the battery out to turn the necklace off.

More crafty project downloads can be found in our How-Tuesday series on the Etsy blog! And did you know that you can buy Supplies on Etsy?

How-Tuesday: Make a Felt Mushroom with My Little Mochi

2009-05-19T13:40:00-05:00

Myra Masuda, the brains behind My Little Mochi, knows that crafters love mushrooms. She promises that this cute little guy is easy-peasy and quick-as-a-breezy. Download the pattern and complete project instructions here. Enjoy!

Materials:

Red and white felt scraps
Scrap of sturdy cardboard
Red and white embroidery Floss
Brown crochet thread or cord
Polyfill stuffing
White acrylic paint
Hot glue gun
Paint brush or stick with a Wide back tip
Ultra fine glitter (optional)

Instructions:

1. Transfer and cut out the pattern pieces from white and red felt and cardboard. You will need a large red felt circle, a small cardboard circle and a strip of white felt.

2. Making the stem: Tie a knot at the end of a length of white floss (I used red floss here for illustrative purposes only) and use a needle to string it through the bottom corner of one end of the white felt.

3. Starting from the end of the felt with the floss, begin rolling the felt into a coil. Make sure to keep the end of the floss outside of the coil.

4. After you're done rolling the felt into a coil, insert the needle into the middle of the coil and out through the bottom outer corner of the felt strip.

5. Re-insert the needle into the felt coil to stitch the end closed. After the last stitch, insert the needle back into the coil and out through the center of the coil, and tie a knot at the center to secure it in place. Set the stem on the side.

6. Making the cap: Tie a knot at the end of a length of red floss (I used white floss here for illustrative purposes only) and sew a running stitch along the edge of the red felt circle. Pull the thread to form a little sack.

7. Firmly stuff the sack with polyfill. Note: the more polyfill you use, the higher the cap of your mushroom will get. I used all the polyfill shown in the materials photo at the top which was a nice sized handful of polyfill.

8. Insert the cardboard circle into the sack, over the polyfill. It's okay if some of the polyfill peeks out the sides, but try your best to keep the polyfill in place with the cardboard circle.

9. Pull on the red floss again to tighten the red felt over the cardboard leaving a small opening of the cardboard visible. Note: the opening should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the white felt stem coil for a nice tight fit.

10. Use your needle to secure the gathers and tie a knot. Hide the thread end by reinserting the needle into the felt and out through the middle opening. Clip excess thread.

11. Apply a dab of hot glue to the exposed cardboard on the cap.

12. Insert the stem onto the glue on the cap at a 90 degree angle and press firmly but gently in place.

13. Use a knitting needle (I used a bamboo skewer) to push any exposed stem edges back into the cap opening.

14. The dots: Pour some white acrylic paint onto a paint palette and dab the back end of a wide paint brush handle into the paint. Apply the paint to the top of the stem to form dots. Depending on the type of felt you use and the look you want, you may need to apply two coats of paint for each dot.

15. If you like, you can add a short length of brown crochet thread or cord to the top center of the cap for a hanger, but it should also be able to stand up on its own. And that's it! "All pau," as they say Hawaii. Easy right?

I sprinkled ultra-fine glitter over the white dots while the paint was still wet for a shimmery effect, which was really hard to photograph, but looks so great in person.

Thanks to Myra for sharing! Don't forget to head over to her blog, My Little Mochi for more fun.

More crafty project downloads can be found in our How-Tuesday series on the Etsy blog! And did you know that you can buy Supplies on Etsy?

How-Tuesday: Learn How to Make a Faux Feather Wreath

2009-05-12T14:03:00-05:00

Feather your nest with this beautiful and fiendishly clever project, courtesy of Danielle Thompson, a.k.a. TinyBazaar. Check out her blog, Kitschy Digitals, for more craftiness!

I love the feather trend of late, especially in fashion. One thing that can be difficult with feathers is their fragility; they often fall apart with even the smallest amount of wear. I had this in mind when I created this project. You don't have to worry about them disintegrating!

I wanted to apply this feather trend to a home decor project: create a wreath out of these printed paper feathers. The result is a modern take on the traditional wreath. (And so pretty to display for springtime!)

For this project you will need:
- The violet and/or magenta feather PDF (If you're interested in more feather colors, check out the digital kit or print-outs in her Etsy shop!)
- Some good, sharp scissors
- Metal wreath form (as pictured - mine is around 12" in diameter)
- Your choice of paper to print the feathers on (I used regular matte white photo paper, but you could use cardstock, textured cardstock, or any paper in any color you'd like.)
- A strong glue that will hold paper to metal (I used E-6000 because I wanted to make sure the paper would adhere to the metal really well. It's super strong but very toxic, so if you use this glue, use it in a very well ventilated area!)

Step One: I used several sheets of feathers for this wreath, as it will take quite a few. To save paper and ink, just print them as you need them. These files are PDF files, so you should be able to open these on any computer without the need of photo-editing software. You will need Acrobat Version 6 or later. You can download it for free at http://www.adobe.com/products/reader/.

Step Two: Cut out your feathers. One tip I learned a long time ago when I was doing a lot of decoupage: Instead of letting your cutting hand take the lead, let your non-cutting hand move the paper/shape. In my experience, it's much easier to cut out detailed shapes this way! For example, if you're right handed, you hold your scissors in your right hand, and the paper in your left hand. Keep your right hand (and scissors) still, and let your left hand move the paper back and forth. Your left hand will guide the cutting instead of the scissors.

Step Three: Once you have quite a few feathers cut out, you can start gluing them to your wreath form. This metal form has two "tiers." You'll need to start on the bottom tier. These feathers will rest underneath the feathers on the top tier. Start by adding a drop of glue to the top metal rim as seen here:

Then add a drop of glue to the bottom rim:

Then attach your first feather:

Keep attaching the feathers all the way around until you finish the bottom tier.

Now attach feathers to the entire top tier.

You're finished! Now you can embellish it if you'd like, or keep it as is. I added some green pompoms to my wreath.

Many thanks to Danielle Thompson for sharing her project and beautiful photos with us. Don't forget to stop by the Kitschy Digitals blog, and while you're at it, check out her personal blog as well.

More crafty project downloads can be found in our How-Tuesday series on the Etsy blog! And did you know that you can buy Supplies on Etsy?

How-Tuesday: Snuggle Up with a Bedtime Duvet

2009-04-07T15:56:00-05:00

I challenge you to scroll down without feeling overcome with an urge to yelp, "Awww!" Don't worry, you're not weak, it's simply an impossible task. Download the complete project instructions here, or follow along below, courtesy of Baby Stuff by Aranzi Aronzo.

Aranzi Aronzo claim to be a Mexican-Japanese man working at a securities firm and a Norwegian Vietnamese-Indian man who plays the tambourine full-time. They are actually two sisters who create mischievous fun with their adorable crafts and hilarious comics.

Hi, we're Aranzi Aronzo. This book teaches you how to make things you'll need for your baby. Well, maybe your baby won't really need them, but they're things that might be fun to have. Pregnancy is a magical time unlike any other. Having a baby is hard work but there will also be plenty of things that warm your heart. Each day is like a fun adventure. Make the things in this book while thinking of your baby, your relative's baby or even your friend's baby.

Thanks to Aranzi Aronzo and the folks at Vertical for sharing this project.

More crafty project downloads can be found in our How-Tuesday series on the Etsy blog! And did you know that you can buy Supplies on Etsy?

How-Tuesday: Patchwork Style Pot Holders

2009-03-31T16:35:00-05:00

Sneak peek alert! Patchwork Style hits the shelves April 14th, but we're happy to share one of the many beautiful projects found within its pages early. Download the complete project instructions here or follow along below, courtesy of Patchwork Style by Suzuko Koseki.

There are two kinds of patchwork items: the kind that can take you hours of painstaking hand-piecing, and the kind that you can make quickly and easily with a sewing machine. Either one can be extremely attractive.

It feels more natural to use the same pot holders for a long time, but now I can't bring myself to get rid of these! If you're going to use an item every day, you might as well have fun making it.

Materials for Pot Holder A
Fabric scraps for collage (solids, prints; the patterns and colors are up to you)
Fabric for front and lining (linen): 11 7/8" x 7 7/8"
Quilt batting: 17 3/4" x 7 7/8"
Ribbon: 3/4" wide x 3" long

Materials for Pot Holder B
Fabric scraps for collage (prints, velveteen; the patterns and colors are up to you)
Fabric for front and lining (felt): 13 3/4" x 5 5/8"
Quilt batting: 13 3/4" x 5 1/8"
Hemp cord: 7 1/2" long

Materials for Pot Holder C
Decorative patch (I)
Fabric for front (felt): 5 7/8" x 5 7/8"
Quilt batting: 15 3/4" x 5 7/8"
Cotton thread (red)

Materials for Pot Holder D
Fabric scraps for collage (prints, felt, ribbon; the patterns and colors are up to you)
Fabric for front (felt): 7 7/8" x 5 7/8"
Fabric for back (linen): 7 7/8" x 5 7/8"
Quilt batting: 17 3/4" x 7 7/8"
Bias tape: 1/4" wide x 4 3/4" long

Instructions

1. For all pot holders, place the top fabric on three layers of quilt batting. For pot holders A, B, and C, position fabric patches and stitch them to the top and batting layers according to the diagrams. Free stitch additional lines through all three layers according to the diagrams.

For pot holder D, cut out the fabric flower pieces using the template. Place the flower on the top fabric and stitch around the outline of the flower to secure in place. For the flower center, cut a piece of felt and affix it using spiral stitches. Sew the ribbon and patches in place according to the diagram. See Figure 1.

2. For all pot holders, place the front piece on the back fabric, wrong sides together, and sew zigzag and straight stitches around the edges. Make the loops from the specified materials and sew them on as shown. See Figure 2.

For more projects, check out Patchwork Style by Suzuko Koseki! It hits the shelves on April 14th, 2009. Special thanks to all the folks at Trumpeter, an imprint of Shambhala Publications, Inc., Boston. Head over to www.makegoodbooks.com for more titles in the Make Good: Crafts + Life series.

Check out this How-Tuesday video for more potholder ideas!

How-Tuesday: Make a Donkey Softie

2009-03-24T16:20:00-05:00

We jumped on this adorable donkey tutorial by Myra Masuda and immediately knew we needed to share! Download the complete project instructions here, or follow along below, courtesy of Softies Only a Mother Could Love: Lovable Friends for You to Sew, Knit, or Crochet by Jess Redman and Meg Leder. This makes a great gift for the kiddo or the adult toy-collector in your life.

Donkey

Tools
Iron
Tracing paper
Scissors
Pins
Sewing needle
Sewing machine
Stuffing stick (or chopstick or pencil)

Materials
Body fabric - An 18 cm x 30 cm (7 in x 12 in) piece of plain fabric for the main body; a 15 cm x 25 cm (6 in x 10 in) piece of new or vintage patterned fabric for the inner body.

Extra fabric - A scrap of plain tan or cream fabric for the muzzle; scraps of white felt for the eyes and black felt for the pupils; interfacing for the ears.

Thread - Colored sewing thread to match the body fabric; brown, pink and white embroidery thread for the mane and tail.

Stuffing - Polyfill.

Instructions
1. Trace and cut out the pattern using the template provided. Pin it to the fabric and cut out the pieces. You will need to cut 2 main body shapes, 2 inner body shapes, 6 ear shapes (2 in each fabric, plus 2 in interfacing), 2 muzzle shapes, and 2 pupil shapes from your fabric.

2. Pin each muzzle to a main body piece (x to x, right sides facing). Sew Together.

3. Pin body/muzzle pieces together (right sides facing) and sew around the top of the body from A to B, leaving an opening for turning right-side out and stuffing (as marked on the pattern).

4. Pin the inner body pieces together (right sides facing) and sew from A to B.

5. Pin the inner body piece to the main body piece (right sides facing), A to A and B to B. Sew together.

6. Trim edges and clip fabric around the curved edges. Be careful not to clip the seam. Turn right side out.

7. Using a stuffing stick, push small amounts of stuffing into the tight corners first — legs and muzzle. Gradually fill the rest of the body until the stuffing is firm and even, but not too tight.

8. Hand-sew the stuffing opening closed using a ladder stitch.

9. For the eyes, sew each black felt oval onto a white felt circle and then position the eyes on the head as marked. Sew in place. Make French knot with the white embroidery thread for each pupil, as marked on the pattern. Use 3 strands of brown embroidery thread to sew the nostrils onto the muzzle using a straight stitch. Then use 3 strands of pink embroidery thread to sew the mouth using a back stitch. Sew the eyelashes with black embroidery thread.

10. For each ear, pin together a solid color fabric piece, patterned fabric piece, and interfacing (with fabrics right sides facing). Sew together, leaving the base open for turning right-side out. Turn right-side out and iron flat. Turn the base edge of the ears under 6 mm (1/4 in) and hand-sew closed using a ladder stitch. Sew right and left bottom corners of the ear together to form a ring. Position ears to the head (y to y) and attach with a ladder stitch.

11. For the tail, fold the tail piece in half (right sides facing) as marked on the pattern. Sew along the long edge to make a tube. Turn right-side out. Turn the edges under 6 mm (1/4 in) at each end and sew closed using a ladder stitch.
12. Use black embroidery thread for the end of the tail. Insert the needle into the tail, about 8 mm (5/16 in) from the end. Pull through, leaving about a 5 cm (2 in) tail. Cut off, leaving a tail of equal length. Repeat all the way around the end of the tail. Tie a piece of thread around the tail tassel, close to the end where it is attached to the tail. Attach the tie to the end of the tail so it won't slip off. Trim the tassel to a uniform length.

13. Pin finished tail to the back of the donkey at B. Attach with a ladder stitch.

14. Use black embroidery thread to stitch the mane. Starting at point C, insert needle on right side of "spine" and bring out 3 mm (1/8 in) over, on the left side of the spine, leaving about 2.5 cm (1 in) tail on the right side. Insert needle at the first point of entry and bring out at the second point (effectively "tying" the thread to the spine). Cut off, leaving a 2.5 cm (1 in) tail on the left side. Repeat this process until you've worked your way from point C to point D. Once finished, trim the mane to a uniform length of about 2 cm (3/4 in).

Thanks to Myra Masuda, Jess Redman, Meg Leder and the folks at Penguin for sharing this project.
More crafty project downloads can be found in our How-Tuesday series on the Etsy blog!

How-Tuesday: Zakka Pincushion Tutorial

2009-03-10T16:34:00-05:00

Download the complete project instructions here, or follow along below, courtesy of Zakka Sewing by Therese Laskey and Chika Mori.

Pretty wrist pincushions are the perfect accessory for sewing—the pins are always where you need them. This one looks like a flower corsage that you might have worn to your high school prom. To change the size of the band, measure your wrist and add 1" plus an additional 1/2" for seam allowances; this becomes your strap measurement. All the other measurements and directions remain the same.

Flower Corsage Pincushion

Materials

Scrap of linen, 6" x 8 1/2"
Scrap of eyelet cotton, 4" square
Scrap of printed cotton, 4 1/2" square
Scrap of tan wool felt, 1 1/2" diameter circle
Plastic from gallon milk container, cut to 1 3/8" diameter circle (for pincushion liner)
All-purpose thread to match fabrics
1" length of 5/8"-wide Velcro Fiberfill
Flower pattern (shown below)

Preparing the Fabric

Cut using pattern
Cotton: 1 large flower
Eyelet cotton: 1 small flower

Cut freehand
Linen: 1 circle, 1 1/2" in diameter
1 rectangle, 2 1/2" x 8 1/4"
Wool felt: 1 circle, 1 1/2" in diameter
Plastic: 1 circle, 1 3/8" in diameter

Seam allowance: 1/4"

Zakka Fact:
With so many people crafting and sewing, making a pincushion is a way to demonstrate a personal style
with a practical object. Tons of made-in-Japan pincushions were imported to the United States in the
1940s – 1960s, including the ever-popular tomato.

Making the Pincushion

1. Make Flower
Edge-stitch around the petals of both flowers, to deter fraying. (Drawing A)

Layer the flower pieces, right side up, from the bottom up as follows: large flower, small flower, and linen circle. (Drawing B). Adjust the two flowers so that their petals are "staggered" (Drawing C), center the linen circle three times, sewing through all three layers. Set the flower aside.

2. Make Strap
Fold the linen rectangle in half lengthwise and press it. Then turn under the rectangle's three sides with raw edges in place. Edge-stitch around all four sides.

Stitch the Velcro's loop side on one end of the strap and its hook side on the underside of the strap's other end (Drawing D).

3. Put it All Together
Stack and pin the layers from the bottom up as follows: wool felt circle, plastic circle, strap, and flower (Drawing D). Blanket-stitch the wool felt to the flower, leaving a 1" opening.

Stuff the circle with fiberfill, placing it between the plastic and strap. Hand-sew the opening closed.

Note: The fabric flowers' edges tend to fray: if you want a more finished look, use felt or Ultrasuede.

Thanks to Therese Laskey, Chika Mori and the folks at Stewart, Tabori & Chang for sharing this project. Check out zakkahome.com for more information about the book.

More project downloads are available here! Check out all the How-Tuesday content!

How-Tuesday: Favor Bags with Brooklyn Bride

2009-02-24T13:41:00-05:00

YouTube | Mp4 | blip.tv | Subscribe in iTunes

While a drawstring favor bag is a simple project, the idea behind it is big: fabric is an excellent way to add a personal touch to your special event! Whether you're planning a wedding, birthday party, or baby shower, think fabric for a unique — and inexpensive! — splash of color. The wrapping becomes part of the gift: a reusable bag is an eco-friendly alternative to wrapping paper. Your guests would never chuck your cute handmade bag into the trash, right?

Vane Broussard of Brooklyn Bride Blog (and bklynpillow right here on Etsy) joins us to share this design she developed while planning her own wedding. Her frustration at the lack of modern and affordable wedding decor options led her to become very creative — and got her started blogging! She's been going full speed ever since.

Drawstring Favor Bag

Materials You'll Need:

Fabric
Ribbon
Sewing machine with thread to complement fabric
Scissors or rotary cutter
Pins
Safety pin
Iron and ironing board
Embroidery thread, needle and hoop
Pencil or fabric marker
Ruler

Making a Favor Bag:

Measure and cut a piece of fabric that is 15" x 6 1/2". (You can really make this any size, I just like them petite.)
With the wrong side of the fabric facing up, at each of the shorter sides, fold and iron the fabric a 1/2", then again by 1". These sizes can be adjusted depending on the width of your ribbon.
Sew along the very bottom of that inch to make a pocket or channel for the ribbon on both ends.
Plan where you'd like to place an embroidered design. (Remember, you'll be losing at least a 1/4" on either side of the bag for seam allowance.)
Use a pencil or fabric marker to lightly sketch your design on the fabric; with an embroidery needle and four strands of floss, follow the path with a backstitch. (Keep stitches small so that the curves of any letters don't look choppy.) If you want to get fancy, you can try other stitches, like French knots!
Bring right sides of the fabric together and pin the sides, leaving the top of the bag open.
Sew using a 1/4" seam allowance along the sides, stopping once you reach the channels for the ribbon.
Turn the bag right-side out. To thread the ribbon for the drawstring, use a safety pin to catch one side of the ribbon to help you feed it through the channel created. Tie the ends together and trim the excess to finish.

Start with some fun favor bags, then try your hand at wrapped vases and a ring pillow... The possibilities are endless! What handmade touches did you add to your wedding? Tell us in the comments below!

If you're feeling crafty, check out the Stamping Metal Tutorial on Tuesday, February 24th at 3PM EST in the Virtual Labs. Catch more Etsy how-to videos and more wedding posts right here:

How Tuesday Videos | Handmade Wedding Series | Fabric Supplies Tagged "Organic"

How-To: Do It Now!

2009-02-17T16:00:00-05:00

Glue gun gathering dust? Re-upholstery project in a pile? Our friends at Apartment Therapy have just the thing: the February Jumpstart Project, "Do it Now!" We've just rounded the half-way mark of the challenge. (Which means now is the time get involved!) Besides the group motivation and encouragement, there are Etsy shopping sprees to be had! Click here for all the details.

Need a little inspiration, or just a fix of pretty? Enjoy this sampling of project entries to get you going.

Title: DIY Tufted Headboard
Name: Charissa
Time: 6 hours
Cost: $110

"Charissa took on a big project and she rocked it! The results are wonderful and her directions make us feel like even we could pull it off... " Jump here for all the details.

Title: Decorated Tea Set
Name: Aya Rosen
Time: 2 1/2 Hours
Cost: About $12

"Wow, what great small project that allows you to be totally creative on a very functional household item. Easier than we thought, check out Aya's great instructions here."

Title: DIY-Roman Shades
Name: Jennifer Hagler
Time: 1 hour
Cost: $50

"Jennifer took simple, plain and inexpensive Roman shades from Target and completely transformed them with a graphic patterned fabric from IKEA — providing customized window coverings on a budget." Click here for more pics and project instructions.

Title: Chalk Board Wall
Name: Laura
Time: One Weekend
Cost: $40 (I had most of the supplies lying around the house already)

"Wow! This chalk board wall adds so much life and fun to the room." Click here for the how-to.

Title: DIY Starburst Mirror
Name: Allison
Time: About 3-4 hours
Cost: $25

"Who would have guessed the automotive parts shop would be a great DIY home decor resource? Allison's Starburst Mirror project takes a simple $2.99 auto blind spot mirror and makes it into something for the home...something beautiful." Click here for all the instructions.

What small (or big) projects in your home could use tackling? Let us know in the comments below. See all the entries and learn how to enter your own project here. For inspiration, watch an Etsy how-to video.

How-Tuesday: Valentine's Day Round Up

2009-02-10T16:45:00-05:00

When I was in first grade, my teacher Mrs. Cechetti would bring in hand-crocheted ornaments for each holiday. (For all twenty-five plus kids in the class!) There were black cats for Halloween, ice skates — complete with paper clip blades! — for the winter holidays, Lincoln hats for President's Day, and white bunnies with pink ears for Easter. I remember thinking, even at six years old, "Wow... That's a lot of work, she must really like us!" (This was in addition to the pure delight and admiration I felt for her magical ways with yarn.) That direct hand to heart connection still resonates, twenty-five plus years later.

With Valentine's Day just around the corner, what better time to highlight fun hands-on ways to show you care? Here's a round up of some of the sweetest treats to make and share... xox

Red Velvet Cupcakes

"Intimidated by baking, assembling, and decorating a homemade red velvet cake for Valentine’s Day? Give cupcakes a try instead!" says Nicole of Pinch My Salt. These decadent Red Velvet Cupcakes "aren’t pink, they aren’t reddish-brown, they are a dramatic RED, perfect for Valentine’s Day! And in addition to the beautiful color, these little cakes are light, tender, and downright delicious!"

Yum! Click here for the recipe and share them with someone special.

Amigurumi Love Birds

Made for each other in complementing yarns, this pair would do Mrs. Cechetti proud! Make your own set to share with your lovebird. Get the complete pattern at Lionbrand.com.

Thanks to WhipUp.net for highlighting this super-cute duo.

Tic Tac Toe Hearts

"When you think Valentines, what comes to mind? Hearts, red & pink, and crafts, right? Well I've included all three of those elements into the classic game of Tic Tac Toe.

(Oh, and chocolates are included too, which I was eating as I was crafting these red & pink hearts!)"

By Marie LeBaron, care of AlphaMom.com.

Make Your Own Valentine

Don't have a Valentine? Why not make one? That's just what Erika Kern, of myimaginaryboyfriend and craftstylish did.

"I must admit I'm not a big Valentine's Day fan. You see, I've never actually had a Valentine, but I suspect that even if I had, I wouldn't care for it. It seems to me that Valentine's Day only exists to make people in relationships feel as though they must spend spend spend to prove their love and to make the single out there feel as though they were the loneliest sots in all the world. Still, I am a romantic, and though Valentine-less, I still hope for love. This Valentine's Day I've decided why wait for Mr. Right when I can just make my own! Wanna make your own, too?"

Get the full instructions here.

Do you remember your first-- or your favorite-- handmade Valentine? Tell us about it in the comments below.

More How-Tuesday Projects | Season of Love Posts

How-Tuesday: Applique a Cameo Tote

2009-02-03T12:27:00-05:00

Dress up an everyday outfit with this classic black and white carry all. Equestrian, Victorian?... Yes, please! Download the complete project instructions here, or follow along below, courtesy of The New Handmade by Cassie Barden.

When damask, silhouettes, ruffles, and pearls all suddenly came back into fashion in the past couple of years, I admit to being rather giddy about it. There's something about prim but playful Victorian styles that I really love. This bag is inspired by those fashions, but is firmly planted in this century by the graphic drama of the black on cream. The next time you're invited to high tea, you'll have the perfect bag for the occasion.

Victorian Cameo Bag

Materials

Yardage is based on 42"-wide fabric unless indicated otherwise.

1/2 yard of black-and-cream damask for outer bag and straps
1/2 yard of purple print for lining
3/8 yard of solid black fabric for appliqué and outer-bag contrasting
strips
Scrap of cream fabric for appliqué
1/2 yard of 17"-wide paper-backed fusible web
3/8 yard of batting

Cutting
For raw-edge machine applique, cut out the patterns on the lines.
For other methods you may need to add a seam allowance.
From the black-and-cream damask, cut:
2 rectangles, 12" x 14"
2 strips, 4" x 20"
From the solid black fabric, cut:
4 strips, 2" x 12"
1 large oval appliqué (use pattern)
1 horse head appliqué (use pattern)
From the purple print, cut:
2 rectangles, 12" x 16"
From the cream fabric scrap, cut:
1 small oval appliqué (use pattern)
From the batting, cut:
2 rectangles, 12" x 16

Making the Bag

Use 1/2"-wide seam allowances throughout, unless otherwise indicated.

1. Pin and sew the 12" edge of each black strip to the short edges of each damask rectangle. Press the seam allowances open.

2. Center and machine appliqué the cream oval to the black oval using the fusible web and your favorite method. Center and appliqué the horse head to the cream oval. Center and appliqué the unit to one of the damask pieces.

3. Place the appliquéd panel and the remaining panel from step 1 right sides together. Sew around the side and bottom edges. Clip the bottom corners at an angle, and then turn the piece right side out. This is the outer bag.

4. Layer a batting rectangle on the wrong side of each purple rectangle. With the lining pieces right sides together and using a walking foot, sew around the side and bottom edges like you did for the outer bag. Leave a 3" gap about 2" from the bottom on one side seam. You will eventually pull the entire bag through this hole, so make sure to backstitch before and after the gap for extra strength. Trim away the batting in the seam allowances. Clip the bottom corners as in step 3, but do not turn the piece.

5. To make the straps, fold a damask print strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press the fold. Unfold, turn the raw edges of the strip in to the center crease, refold on the center crease, and then press the strip. Topstitch along each long side of the strap a scant ¹⁄8" from the edge. Repeat with the remaining damask strip.

6. Mark 2" in from each side seam along the top edge of the outer bag. With the raw edges matching, pin the ends of each strap to the bag, aligning the outer edges of the strap with your 2" mark. It’s easy for the straps to get pushed at an angle as you sew the next seam, so pin the strap to the outer bag a couple inches down to keep it perpendicular. Repeat with the remaining strap on the other side of the bag.

7. With right sides together, place the outer bag and straps inside the lining bag, sandwiching the straps between the layers. Align and pin the raw edges together.

8. Sew all the way around the top of the bag, backstitching over the two side seams, as well as over each strap.

9. Pull the bag through the gap you left in the lining seam. While the lining is “out” of the outer bag, whipstitch the gap closed.

10. Push the lining into the outer bag, roll the top seam (see below), and press the bag.

Thanks to Cassie Barden and Martingale & Company for sharing this project. To learn more about the book, visit thenewhandmade.com.

For more project downloads click here! Get all our How-Tuesday content!

Black and white cameos | Victorian-inspired accessories

How-Tuesday: Spicy Coconut Soup

2009-01-27T14:38:00-05:00

On a cold (or a hot) day, nothing makes me happier than some good spicy food! Add coconut milk or a little tofu and I'm in heaven. I've never met a Thai massaman curry or a steaming Korean soon du boo that I didn't like... Mmm... Enjoy this recipe from The Asian Vegan Kitchen while I go raid the pantry!

Noodles in Spicy Coconut Soup, Laksa Lema

This is the vegetarian version of the famous Malay dish known as Laksa Lemak, which originated in Melaka. Spicy hot coconut broth is poured over the noodles and served with an assortment of garnishes.

1. Using a food processor, grind the spice paste ingredients together until smooth, using a little water if needed.
2. For the soup, heat the oil in a saucepan and sauté the ground spice paste for 2–3 minutes over medium heat, until fragrant. Stir in the lemongrass, lime leaves, galangal, and tofu.
3. Add the coconut milk, water, and salt. Bring to a boil and simmer over low heat for 6–8 minutes. Add the tomato to the simmering broth.
4. Arrange the garnishes on the table. Immerse the noodles in boiling water for a few seconds. Drain and divide between individual bowls. Pour a ladleful of the hot coconut broth into each bowl. Invite your guests to add their favorite garnish.

FOR THE SPICE PASTE

1 tablespoon coriander seeds
1 tablespoon cumin seeds
6 candlenuts or cashews
5 fresh red chilies

2 cloves garlic, crushed
¾ inch (2-cm) cube galangal, sliced
½ teaspoon turmeric
¼ teaspoon nutmeg

FOR THE SOUP

3 tablespoons peanut oil or vegetable oil
1 stalk lemongrass, halved and crushed
3 kaffir lime leaves
2 slices galangal
7 ounces (200g) atsuage deep-fried tofu, sliced
2 cups (480ml) coconut milk
1 cup (240ml) water
²⁄³ teaspoon salt
1 medium tomato, cut into 8 wedges
11 ounces (310g) wheat flour noodles or thin spaghetti, cooked

FOR THE GARNISHES

2 scallions, finely sliced
½ cucumber, sliced
Celery leaves

Bean sprouts
Lettuce leaves, shredded

Sambal (see below)
Krupuk deep-fried crackers

Thanks to Kodansha Publishing for sharing this excerpt from Hema Parekh's The Asian Vegan Kitchen.

If you're a foodie, you should join the Edible Arts Team for a Valentine's Bake Sale in the Gallery room of the Virtual Labs on Wednesday, January 28th at 7pm EST.

How-To: Stitch an Apron

2008-12-31T10:15:00-05:00

Nothing beats a cool, retro style apron to make you feel like the hostess with the most-est. So whether you're holding a New Year's brunch, or a tea for two, tie on a party-proof print and be ready to toast!

Aprons are deceptively simple to make, requiring just a small amount of fabric and the most basic sewing skills. Why not give this sweet number a shot?

Today author Nathalie Mornu of instructional handbook A Is for Apron is here to share the "Kaleidoscope" apron by designer Angelina Williamson, who says, "I used pin-tucks to confer the formality of an obi or a corset. It was exciting to discover their value as both a structural and a textural element."

Download the free pattern and complete instructions here or follow along below.

Kaleidoscope Apron

Materials:
Apron kit (fabric sheers, scissors, threads, pins, sewing needles, tape measure, sewing machine, iron and ironing board, water-soluble fabric pen, and transfer pencil)
Pattern (see download)
¾ yard (68.6 cm) of fabric for the front
¾ yard (68.6 cm) of coordinating fabric for the waistband, hem, and ties
¼ yard (22.9 cm) of batiste for the waistband lining
4 buttons (with holes, not shanks), 7⁄8-inch (2.2 cm) in diameter

Tools:
Spaghetti-strap turner
Seam gauge

What You Do:

Step 1: Enlarge and cut out the pattern pieces from the project download. Cut the front out of the main fabric and the remaining pattern pieces out of the coordinating fabric. Cut the waistband out of
the batiste.

Step 2: Overlock, serge, or zigzag all the raw edges of the front and hem pieces to prevent them from fraying.

Step 3: With right sides together, pin the hem to the front, starting from the center and working toward the edges to ensure the edges match up correctly. Stitch.

Step 4: Press the seam toward the hem, and then topstitch the seam down on the right side of the fabric.

Step 5: Turn to the wrong side. Press and stitch down the sides.

Step 6: Turn back to the right side, press the hem, and stitch it down.

Step 7: Turn the four tie pieces over, wrong side up, and press one end of each, so the right side is turned over to the wrong side.

Step 8: Pin two ties together, right sides together, and stitch the sides using a ¼-inch (6 mm) seam allowance. Repeat to create the other tie.

Step 9: Turn the ties right side out using the spaghetti-strap turner, and press them. Topstitch three sides, leaving the raw edge unstitched.

Step 10: With the right sides together, pin the waistband to the waistband lining. Stitch the sides, using a ¼-inch (6 mm) seam allowance. Turn the waistband right side out and press.

Step 11: Turn in the ends of the waistband ½ inch (1.3 cm) and press. Insert the raw end of each apron strap into the ends of the waistband. Pin them in place, and topstitch the entire waistband.

Step 12: Use a temporary-ink fabric pen to mark the center of the waistband at the top and the bottom. On one side of the center, use the seam gauge to make 15 small marks at the top and the bottom edges of the waistband at 1¼-inch (3.2 cm) intervals, starting from the center and working your way out. Repeat on the other side of the center mark.

Step 13: Fold the waistband at the center, wrong sides together. Stitch a seam ¼ inch (6 mm) in from the centerfold. Work from the center out toward one end (figure 1), and then turn the waistband around, and repeat to finish the other end. Refer to the marks you made to fold each tuck at the right spot. Stitch ¼ inch (6 mm) in from the fold each time.

Step 14: Using a temporary-ink fabric pen, mark the center of the waistband by measuring its longest vertical length and dividing that number in half. Pin the front of the apron to the point you’ve marked. Then pin the rest of the front to the waistband, keeping it centered along the waistband (figure 2).

Step 15: Use an uneven slipstitch to sew the apron front to the waistband.

Step 16: Sandwich the end of each apron tie between two buttons, and stitch the buttons to each other. Put it on and go out for ice cream. You’ll look as cool as you feel.

Many thanks to Lark Books for sharing this project with us!

For more hostess fun, try these searches:

Vintage Aprons | Vintage Tea Sets | Entertaining and Decor Gift Guid

How-to: Knit Baby Legwarmers

2008-12-12T15:02:00-05:00

That's one happy baby! Indulge your precious bundle in cozy cashmere warmth with a pair of knitted legwarmers just her size.

Designed by Patti Ghezzi for Storey Publishing's Luxury Yarn One-Skein Wonders, this project knits up quick - perfect for that last-minute gift! And, since it only requires one skein of yarn, it's an inexpensive way to explore this luxury fiber.

Download the complete instructions here, or follow along below.

Think legwarmers are beyond your skill set? Not so! ... If you can knit a scarf, you can make these cashmere cuties. ... Can't knit a scarf? Learn the basics here.

For more great gifts for knitters and knitted gifts, check out Featured Buyer Jessica Marshall Forbes of Ravelry.com; Trends: Oversize Cowls ; Knitted Postcard How-to and the related items below.

How-To: Play with Your Food

2008-12-05T16:45:00-05:00

Young people (of all ages) know food is fun. But before you turn your perfectly edible parfait into pulp, why not whip up a faux version in felt that looks good enough to eat?

Create your very own Blackcurrant Mousse, like the one shown here, or share one as a gift with someone you find sweet. You can start out with one, then build your way to a whole plate of petit fours to enjoy with friends ... Now that's what I call having your cake and eating it too!

Get the complete project instructions on PDF right here, they're free to downoad! Yum!

Some of the projects may not be appropriate for babies that really do want to nom nom nom.

Many thanks to Kodansha America for sharing this treat of a project, from My Favorite Felt Sweets.

For more fun with food, check out the related items below and these search terms:

Amigurumi Food | Felt Food

Children's Gift Guide | Holiday Shopping Lists: Faux Food

Cannibal Pumpkin: A Halloween How-To

2008-10-29T19:09:00-05:00

Halloween is day after tomorrow — you better get carving! Not enough gruesome pumpkin eye candy for your Halloween baskets? Not to worry! Tom Nardone, crafty author of Extreme Pumpkins has a few more tricks (and treats) up his sleeve.

Life requires bravery; if you're timid, the cannibals will eat you for sure. To illustrate this point, each year I buy a giant pumpkin and feed other pumpkins to it. A ruthless jack-o'-lantern munching on the flesh of its own kind really frightens all the sweater-vest types. Here's how you can scare your neighbors, too. You can follow along below or download the pdf file here.

Tom with a few of his pumpkin pals.

Get inspired to get extreme! Buy the book here.

And his other book here!

Pumpkin season is popular here on Etsy. Don't forget to taste the Flavors of Fall, or bask in autumns favorite color, Orange, Beautiful Orange. Did Halloween sneak up on you this year? There's still time to put together a killer costume! Oh, and don't worry about what to bring to that party on Friday, we've got some spooky cupcakes that are sure to cause a scream or two.

More pumpkin treasures can be found in the related items below. Seach Etsy for all types of handmade pumpkin items!

Recycled Glove How-to: Make a Chipmunk Softie

2008-10-17T15:34:00-05:00

Gloves (like socks), while born to be part of a pair, often end their days in lonely solitude, separated from their mates by the forces of the universe that conspire at every turn to pull them apart. Alone, they sadly serve little purpose (aside from the occasional show biz appearance for only the most sparkling among them), and are left to languish in the backs of a drawers and bottoms of closets — that is, if they're not disposed of all together. Ah... but it's a new day.

With her book, Happy Gloves: Charming Softy Friends Made from Colorful Gloves, she's given hopelessly single gloves a new lease on life as cozy companions. In her able hands, one glove's worth of material becomes an elephant, a penguin, a donkey, a bunny — you name it — all set free to romp and play together. (Can't you just hear the claps of cheer?)

Crafter and author Miyako Kanamori has a plan and she's ready to share it!

Try your hands at this chipmunk to start your very own menagerie of recycled glove critters. Download complete instructions here or follow along below.

BUY the book at Amazon!

Thanks to the Penguin Group for sharing this project from Happy Gloves.

Author Miyako Kanamori is a crafter who lives in Tokyo. She is also the author of Sock and Glove. You can see more of her work at her website: bananawani.org/nuiguroom.

For more cute critters made from recycled materials, search "Recycled Softie". Some examples plus a few other autumn-inspired creations can be seen in the related items below.