I met Chisako Higashiya, aka Japanesepaperdoll, at a Thanksgiving dinner she hosted during my first year living in Japan. As far as I know, she was the only person in the area with an oven big enough to cook a turkey—and a heart big enough to invite thirty foreign teachers into her home to celebrate a North American holiday. But this generosity should come as no surprise to the hundreds of students who have worked with her over the years. They know Chisako has spent nearly a decade teaching classes in English on how to make washi ningyo, elaborate dolls constructed entirely out of handmade Japanese paper, giving foreigners living in Japan the rare opportunity to learn this traditional Japanese craft.


[Chisako, teaching a class in her studio]

Chisako's interest in sharing Japanese culture began even before she knew how to make paper dolls, back when she was a music teacher in Seki, a small city in central Japan. She was teaching a student from the United States, a man who spent part of his lessons asking questions about Japanese culture. "I understood what it was like to see Japanese culture through a foreigner's eyes then," she says. He was interested and wanted to learn more, but classes in traditional Japanese crafts like ikebana (Japanese flower arranging) and shodo (calligraphy) were expensive and typically taught entirely in Japanese. Chisako wanted to help, but at the time, music was the only subject she was qualified to teach.


[Washi ningyo on display in Chisako's studio]

That changed a few years later when she saw a handmade washi ningyo at a friend's house. "I saw the doll and I thought, 'I want to make that,'" she says. After apprenticing with an elderly paper doll teacher, Chisako passed the test to become a certified washi ningyo teacher and set up a small doll studio in the attic of her house. Remembering her conversations with the American student, she decided to teach her classes in English and charge only a nominal fee, giving interested foreigners the chance to learn a traditional Japanese craft.


[A doll I made in Chisako's class]

I had the same reaction as Chisako the first time I saw a doll made by one of her students: "I want to make that." Washi ningyo (washi is handmade Japanese paper, "ningyo" means "doll") are beautiful and a little eerie: faceless, three-dimensional dolls wearing ornate kimonos and upswept hairstyles, often fashioned after geishas, historical figures or characters from kabuki theater. Once known as anesama ningyo ("big sister dolls") because they were usually made by the eldest sister in the family, dolls of this type have been made by women in Japan for hundreds of years, but are not seen very often these days.


[Washi at a store in Mino, Japan]

The paper is what defines each doll; it can be bright and crisp or muted and soft as cotton, shimmering or rough. Chisako buys the washi for her dolls at big paper shops in Nagoya and Tokyo, but she also finds it in nearby Mino, a rural town known since the eighth century for its paper-making, a place where you can still spot people bleaching mulberry fibers by hand in the cold river. For several years, she and some students even constructed doll-adorned paper lanterns to enter in Mino's annual washi lantern festival.


[Doll lantern made by Chisako and her students]

In addition to a kimono and obi, each doll has its own special under robe, accessories and hair adornments, so Chisako spends her weekdays cutting paper to size in preparation for the weekend classes, usually for about three hours a day and sometimes up to six. Students range from absolute craft beginners to washi ningyo masters, so she offers two different dolls each month—one simple enough to be completed by a novice in a few hours, the other challenging enough to keep a pro busy for up to two days. (She keeps a guest bedroom at the ready for these dedicated students.)  


Flat Maiko Doll eBook by Japanesepaperdoll.

After starting a Yahoo group to keep her students posted on class schedules, Chisako began receiving emails from crafters around the world asking for instructions for making washi ningyo. "I am in Japan, they are in Canada—I didn't know what to do!" she says. Then a friend suggested she write an instructional e-book, which she could sell along with doll-making kits. So she wrote one e-book, then another, and now has buyers throughout Asia and North America.


[Chisako at a local exhibition of her dolls]

For Chisako, who has not traveled much outside Japan, it's exhilarating to think about how many of her dolls are out in the world. Whether sent home as gifts or carried back in students' suitcases, washi ningyo made in her classroom have been globe-trotting for years. "It makes me happy to know my dolls are traveling," she says. Through the pictures and updates she receives from former students, she gets to see the world—with washi ningyo as her ambassadors.

To read more posts in the Etsy World Tour series, click here.