Etsy's Handmade Blog
Traditional Japanese Crafts with Atelier Kanawa
Story by AtelierKanawa
Published on September 27, 2007 in This Handmade Life 		Photo by

Kiku (Chrysanthemum) Tsumami Kanzashi by Atelier Kanawa


I run Atelier Kanawa (which means "studio to play Japanese harmony & peace") and I would love to share my stories of my ancestors who were in Kimono business and how I am trying to keep these traditions alive.

My great grandfather was an artisan who dyed Kimono designs, mainly Yukata, the Summer Kimono. My grandmother was a Kimono tailor, and both my mother and my aunt graduated from Kimono academy. My aunt has been teaching Kimono classes in Japan.

Since January in 2005, I have been studying Kimono and dressing with them myself. And since March 2006, I have been learning to dress other people. Currently, I am preparing to officially become a certified Kimono Consultant/adviser of All Japan Kimono Consultant Association through "Sodo" Kimono Academy, in October, 2007. I accomplished the beginner's level 1, level 2, and also the intermediate level. I am now in the advanced course. You can read the biography of my principal Mr. Norio Yamanaka (also an appointed chairman of the All Japan Kimono Consultants Association) has published a biography.

I also study how to dye Kimono designs by Bingata Katazome, which is the traditional Japanese method of dyeing fabric in Okinawa (southern part of Japan), using a resist paste applied through stencil. The term is comes from a combination of Kata (pattern or stencil), and Zome, from the verb Someru (to dye). Bingata Katazome deal with all natural ingredients for ink, brush, and fabric.

I am also pursuing classical Japanese dance by Hanayagi-style, which includes Geisha dance, Noh, and Kabuki.



Lastly, I passionately pursue Tsumami Kanzashi, a traditional Japanese long ornamental hairpin.


Today, there are ONLY 15 acknowledged Tsumami Kanzashi artisans in the whole world. Most of them don't have successors to carry out this beautiful traditional art, so it is RAPIDLY dying out. I was blessed to be accepted as a private pupil by one of them in this summer, even though my master does not train anybody anymore due to serious illness. That meant so much to me that my master passionately taught me everything, because he wants this authentic art to remain in this world. I can not even put in words how much I was honored to inherit my master's spirit.

Today, I deeply regard my ancestors who were in Kimono business. I passionately strive to pass this "disappearing culture" on to the next generation throughout the world. I will be very happy if you enjoy my authentic Japanese art work. 

The first technique I'd like to describe is called Tsumami Kanzashi.

Tsumami (pinching) is the technique which to pinch/pick up a two dimensional piece of silk fabric to construct a three dimensional object. Tsumami consists of only two types of method called Maru-Tsumami (round pinching) and Ken-Tsumami (sword pinching).


Traditionally, we use Habutae silk in Japan to make Tsumami, but there is an artisan who uses Chirimen silk also. I use both of them and some other types of fabric and Vintage Kimono fabric.

Since the middle of Edo period (1603-1867), this handcraft technique has been traditionally utilized by maidservants in the imperial court as their hobby. Eventually, this beautiful technique was recognized by the Japanese society, and then it began to be used to produce Kanzashi hairpins, sticks, combs and so on. You can see Tsumami Kanzashi in Ukiyoe pictures. To give you some context: during that time period, Beethoven was quite active in music industry!

Today, not only Maiko (those young girls who are under the training to become Geisha) wear them, but they are worn by Japanese women for new year celebrations, celebrations for children called "Shichi-Go-San" (a coming-of-age ceremony), weddings, and by those people who perform traditional Japanese dance.

Tsumami Kanzashi is made to show mainly the beauty of four seasons. For example, Maiko wear plum flower in February, cherry blossom in April, and chrysanthemum in October.

Since there are ONLY 15 acknowledged artisans of Tsumami Kanzashi the whole world today and they don't really have any successors, it means a lot to me to be sharing this information with you. You can see the process I use to make my items in the videos I've made below:

Part 1

 

Part 2

 

 

 

Part 3

 

 

 

FURTHER RESOURCES:

See an interview with me about my story and work.

See a video slideshow of my work here.

Tsumami Kanzashi Museum

Edo Tsumami Kanzashi documentary video

Atelier Kanawa's Youtube page 

ABOUT HABUTAE (羽二重)SILK

This is the plain woven silk textile of authentic Japanese vintage Kimono. Habutae silk has a very smooth textures as soft, light and shiny, so they are used as Kimono linings. In Japan, we say "the best silk starts with Habutae and also ends with Habutae." Habutae silk proudly represents Japan.

ABOUT CHIRIMEN (縮緬) SILK

Chirimen silk crepe became popular from 17th to 18th century in Japan. Its distinctive technique involves twisting the threads during weaving. It has a slightly textured surface, so it is heavier and stronger than an ordinary plain weave.

Tags AtelierKanawa, cultures, Etsy International, flowers, Japan, Japanese, kimono, silk, traditions, video, videos
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27 comments     Login to add your own!

Sept. 27, 2007 at 5:23 p.m. ThePaintedTiger

Thank you for sharing your craft. It is sad that the techniques are not being passed on; many parts of Japanese culture are very beautiful.

Sept. 27, 2007 at 9:51 p.m. TwoObsessed

Thank you! I really enjoyed learning about your artwork.

Sept. 28, 2007 at 1:55 p.m. myaimistrue

Thank you for making this post and sharing your craft! I am getting married next summer and want a hairpin ornament that is similar to what you create. I'm making your shop a favorite and I will be in touch!

Sept. 28, 2007 at 6:26 p.m. AtelierKanawa

ThePaintedTiger:

Thank you very much for your comment:)
Yes, it is very sad that our techniques of many Japanese art are not being passed on...It is a critical situation. I feel urgent to do something about this situation!:D So the first thing I can do is, "I" pass them on to the future generation, and educate more young generation to preserve the beauty of our culture.

Sept. 28, 2007 at 6:27 p.m. AtelierKanawa

TwoObsessed:

Thank you very much for your sweet comment. I am glad you enjoyed reading my article and watching the videos.

Sept. 28, 2007 at 6:29 p.m. AtelierKanawa

myaimistrue:

Thank you very much for visiting my article and leaving your comment:)

Sure, I will be honored to create the custom made hairpins for your wedding. I get lots of orders for wedding, and especially this month, it's like the all the custom made orders are for wedding:D

Oct. 2, 2007 at 11:13 a.m. weiwen

Thank you so much for sharing your art with us here. I'm very interested in traditional methods that are slowly disappearing... its very sad but I'm glad there are people like you out there to carry on these beautiful traditions!

Oct. 2, 2007 at 7:33 p.m. crostini

This is a fantastic article and resource for everyone. I truly appreciate your willingness to share important and honored techniques of your culture in an effort to preserve artisan heritage.

I, for one, am very interested in Japanese design heritage and will be bookmarking all of your resources to share.

:)

Oct. 3, 2007 at 11:09 a.m. NickiGrace

Great article - I enjoyed it very much! How wonderful that you are pursuing the Tsumami Kanzashi.

Oct. 3, 2007 at 6:12 p.m. bunny

What a brilliant article.
Thank you so much!
Your work is truly amazing.

Oct. 4, 2007 at 11:43 p.m. AtelierKanawa

weiwen:

Thank you very much for your very insightful comment. I really appreciate people like you value the traditional arts and crafts. It is very heart breaking to see our traditions are disappearing, and sttruggle to find the way how we can recover the beatiful side of our culture.
Now I am studying about the many types of Kimono fabric and its regions to be woven/dyed for Kimono consultant examination, and it is also such a heart breaking to know that most Kimono fabric that has been lasting for several hundred years will not be presereved in the next generation. I wish I could make the documentary video about them.

Oct. 4, 2007 at 11:46 p.m. AtelierKanawa

crostini:

Thank you very much for your kind comment and your great understanding about Japanese artisan heritage. I really really appreciate you!

Oct. 4, 2007 at 11:47 p.m. AtelierKanawa

NickiGrace:

Thank you very much for your sweet comment. I am glad that you enjoyed my article.

Oct. 4, 2007 at 11:48 p.m. AtelierKanawa

bunny:

Thank you very much for your kind comment:)

Oct. 5, 2007 at 7:59 p.m. gypsycaster

It is a great honor that you would choose to share your talents, and secrets, with us! Thank you so much. I have always admired the complex hair ornaments worn by both Geisha and Mako, and your work is especially lovely.
domo arigato gozaimashta
(Pardon my atrocious Japanese.)
:-)

Oct. 5, 2007 at 10:57 p.m. AtelierKanawa

gypsycaster:

I profoundly appreciate your comment.
I am very honored to have this opportunity to share my cultural tradition with the people all around the world.
Your Japanese is very good! Especially, you used a past tense which means you are advanced.

Oct. 6, 2007 at 2:02 p.m. gypsycaster

LOL Advanced only in my 'thank yous' I'm afraid. But many thanks again.

Oct. 9, 2007 at 2:30 a.m. sigkapoli

Please do pass your craft on. These are so very beautiful!

Oct. 9, 2007 at 3:53 a.m. AtelierKanawa

gypsycaster:

Dou-itashi-mashite(^-^)

Oct. 9, 2007 at 3:54 a.m. AtelierKanawa

sigkapoli:

Thank you very much for your kind comment.
Yes, I will pass my craft on:)

Oct. 9, 2007 at 5:08 p.m. littlebitsys

What a beautiful article and film series, thank you for sharing. I just saw a Tsumami Kanzashi in a store recently and was so taken by the beauty of it, I'm so happy you sell them in your shop.

Oct. 10, 2007 at 8:13 a.m. clothcat

Thank you for sharing such a beautiful craft.

Oct. 11, 2007 at 6:06 a.m. AtelierKanawa

littlebitsys:

Thank you very much for your sweet comment. I am glad to hear that you were so taken by the beauty of the Tsumami Kanzashi:)As long as there are people like you who have eyes to recognize the beauty of it, Tsumami Kanzashi will remain in this world:D

Oct. 11, 2007 at 6:07 a.m. AtelierKanawa

clothcat:

Thank you very much for your kind comment.

Oct. 16, 2007 at 1:34 p.m. heavenlycreations123

your artisian expertise is incredible. You are truly gifted in your craft. You have been blessed with those gifted hands to create a gift from God. Carry on your expertise and thank you so much for sharing your art with us.

Oct. 21, 2007 at 10:06 a.m. AtelierKanawa

heavenlycreations123:

I was profoundly moved by your comment. Thank you very much! I will carry on my expertise to share with people all around the world.

Sept. 11, 2008 at 9:54 p.m. raescott

thank you very much for your wisdom and talent. The skill that you posses in the making of such breathtaking working is very humbling. I heard about the craft from some friends who said that it was rather simple and made fantastic resault. I have researched and fround numerous tutorials but none of them has surpassed yours. I can only hope to try and make something as beautiful as you have and with as much skill. I am truelly interested in learning so that if not formally this art may live on in some small way.

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