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Story by
mtraub
Published on July 21, 2009 in How-To |
Photo by Karl Petzke |
Visiting farmers' markets in summertime always serves as a much-needed reminder that food shopping can be enjoyable. From Brooklyn to Palo Alto, Martha's Vineyard to New Orleans, I've found these open air venues to be a never-ending source of inspiration for cooking. I love the soil still clinging to garlic bulbs, the young members of the family business counting my change, and the vendors' encouragement to try the Tatsoi, because that's what's local, fresh, and delicious.
Farmers' markets support that handmade legacy to which we all aspire: connecting the consumer to the maker, and by doing so, connecting the consumer to the product. Through my farmers' market experiences, I have developed the utmost respect for not just the growers, but the food itself. That's why it made such inherent sense to me when I picked up JoAnn Cianciulli's L.A.'s Original Farmers Market Cookbook. With recipes inspired by the stalls at this national landmark, she honors the history and community that contribute to every one of our meals. In this excerpt from JoAnn's book, learn about the story behind the Farmers Market at Third and Fairfax in Los Angeles, as well as a salivation-inducing recipe for Mee Goreng, a fried noodle dish, from Stall 122. How-Tuesday never tasted so good!
These days, all around the country, there are "farmers' markets"—and then there is L.A.'s oldest outdoor market, the Original Farmers Market at Third and Fairfax. From its quaint beginnings in 1934, with local farmers selling produce from the backs of their trucks, to its current spot in the pantheon of Los Angeles's official Historical and Cultural Landmarks, Farmers Market has proven that, indeed, some things really do get better with age. Millions of visitors each year agree.

In its early stages, Farmers Market was a cluster of farm stalls tenanted by small growers who sold directly to the consumer. The main appeal was the extra freshness of vegetables still damp from the morning soil, of fruits ripened on the tree rather than picked hard and green so that they would ship better. The farmers' wives brought in their homemade jams and jellies, and alongside the newly laid eggs and plump fresh chickens were goodies like fresh-baked cookies, homemade breads, and rich chocolate layer cakes, all straight from farm kitchens. It wasn't long before the butcher and grocer sought a place to do business alongside these farmers, who were drawing the patronage of people who knew a good thing when they nibbled it. In time, there appeared import shops and specialty-food stands of nearly every variety. And finally, as a result of an irresistible natural trend, Farmers Market became a cornucopia of restaurants.
Archival photo included in L.A.'s Original Farmers Market Cookbook
Today Farmers Market is a combination of family-owned and operated stalls featuring cuisine, groceries, produce, meats, and seafood from around the world. In a city full of wannabes, where a restaurant is considered a classic if it manages to hang around for more than a decade, the seventy-five-year-old Farmers Market is a miracle of longevity.

Archival photos included in L.A.'s Original Farmers Market Cookbook
Farmers Market is a thriving, ongoing festival of sights and sounds, flavors and smells in the center of our nation's second-largest city. Overlooking one of the busiest corners of Los Angeles, Farmers Market occupies the intersection of Third Street and Fairfax Avenue, supremely anchored in the heart of the city's shopping and dining district.

The original recipes in this cookbook reflect the personality of the Market and represent contributions from every kitchen. Far more than just a collection of weights and measures, this food lover's storybook serves as an enduring companion piece that brings to life the experience that is a trip to Farmers Market. The multigenerational shop owners offer a one-on-one experience that has largely been lost in the service industry today. You can expect to do business with a human being, with a name and a face, who has both stories to tell and your personal satisfaction at heart. In short, the merchants are the Market, the faces behind the place. This all-encompassing memoir not only pays homage to their food, but also honors their varied and intense connections to the spirit of this unique place. No matter where you're from, Farmers Market offers a taste of home, as the aromas of several hundred ingredients mingle with the sounds of chatter from several dozen nations.
Archival photo included in L.A.'s Original Farmers Market Cookbook
The sense of being welcome and comfortable is evident in the eyes and the smiles of all who visit, be they old or young, veteran or first-timer. This is why the location is so special. It's the reason people gather here. It's why the phrase, "Meet Me at Third and Fairfax" has become an indelible part of the city's lexicon. This is not only a book to cook from, to learn from, to relish; it's one that will re-create the very soul of being at Farmers Market.

Photograph of author JoAnn Cianciulli, by Karl Petzke
Mee Goreng Recipe:
The stall of Singapore's Banana Leaf might be small, but the flavor of the food is big and not to be missed. The cuisine of Singapore is a delicious blend of Chinese, Indian, Thai, and Malay cuisines. Family trio Diana and Isaac Gazal and their son, Michael, opened this popular eatery in 2001 after realizing the Market atmosphere was pleasantly similar to an actual Singapore hawker (outdoor food stall). The hybrid wonders of the cuisine were obscure to the owners of Farmers Market, and in true Hollywood style, the Gazals had to audition their specialties for them. They were blown away by the taste of Diana's various delicacies and impressed by her signature approach of showcasing every dish on a banana leaf. And so this cozy gem of a hideaway, with its ceiling fans overhead and its wicker chairs and printed tablecloths, began.
Soon Asians, Malaysians, Indian, and Muslim clientele were flocking to the Market for the real deal of Singaporean-style curries and noodles. Diana came to the United States when she was seventeen years old, with twenty-five dollars, a suitcase, and the ability to cook. She's been in the kitchen all her life and her commitment to the restaurant and its quality is exceptional. In her mind, the true seal of honorary approval came when the president of Singapore visited and loved the authenticity of her dishes. And it is well-deserved kudos for this mini-powerhouse of a woman who stands all of 4 feet 10 inches tall but is a ball of fire who lets nothing get in the way of her dream or her cooking. The menu's recipes were all developed by her, and the vibrant tastes can be attributed to the curry leaves grown fresh in their home garden, a must-have ingredient in many of the dishes. With Diana on the food front, Isaac in charge of the books, and charming Michael handling public relations, Singapores' Banana Leaf continues to be a happy family affair and best of all, as a team, they put the delicious cuisne of SIngapore on the map at the Market.
Mee Goreng, one of the better known dishes of Singapore, is a standard hawker-stall favorite. Goreng means "fried" and mee means "noodle"—in this case thin yellow egg noodles. Vermicelli makes a fine substitute if you can't find the real deal. At Singapore's Banana Leaf, the spicy noodles are topped with your choice of tofu, chicken, or the most requested—Indo style—a fried egg.

Put the potatoes in a large pot and cover with cold water. Add 1/2 teaspoon of salt and bring to a boil, uncovered. Simmer until there is no resistance when a fork is inserted into the potatoes, about 20 minutes. Drain the potatoes in a colander. While they are still hot, carefully peel off the skins with a paring knife; use a kitchen towel to hold them. Cut into 1/2-inch pieces.
In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook the noodles until just tender but still firm to the bite (al dente), about 7 minutes. Take care not to overcook. Rinse under running cool water and drain well. Set aside.
Place a wok or large skillet over medium heat and coat with the oil. When the oil gets hazy, add the onion, garlic, and ginger. Cook and stir until the vegetables are tender but not browned, about 5 minutes. Add the potatoes and continue to cook and stir for 2 minutes to combine and heat through.
Push the vegetables to the sides of the pan and pour the eggs into the center. Scramble the eggs lightly until set, breaking them up into pieces with a spatula. Incorporate the vegetables into the eggs; season with the tumeric, paprika, and salt and pepper to taste.
Add the drained noodles to the wok, stirring and tossing quickly to separate the strands. Pour in the soy sauce, tossing well to coat the noodles and keep them from sticking (drizzle with 1 to 2 tablespoons of water, if necessary). Add the bean sprouts and green onions; cook and stir until softened slightly, about 5 minutes. Photograph by hhhillaryyy
Divide the noodles among 4 plates, top with a fried egg, if using, and garnish with sliced green onion and fried shallots. Serve with lime wedges.
Dying to learn more recipes from L.A.'s Farmers Market? Chronicle Books is offering a special discount to Etsy readers! Just use the code "ETSY" at checkout on their site, and you save 20% off the price as well as free shipping. That's just perfectly delectable!
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131 comments Login to add your own!
LittleWrenPottery
Great how to - look forward to trying it out, although I love asian cooking sometimes its tough to know where to start.
blueberryshoes
i love farmers markets. they're quite kitschy, and you always come away with funny stories and awesome produce!
thejewelrybar
love this farmer's market in LA...I used to visit all the time:)
elizandaxel
That looks fantastic!! Going to the market right now to buy the ingredients. :)
iragrant
if you tired with noodles, change it with the rice and add chicken satay with peanut butter sauce. If you want a lighter taste, no need to use turmeric and sweet paprika:)
soap
mmm, great article - LOVE mee goreng. makes me want to travel again . . .
girltuesdayjewelry
looking at that delicious photo reminds me I need to eat some lunch!!!!
dadadreams
Yum! Whenever I visit LA, the Farmer's Market is always my first stop.
lizjewelry
Love, love, love the farmers market here in Calgary! Mee Goreng looks and sounds amazing! Great collection too!
designfabulous
yum, what a great article! Love farmers markets, and love supporting locals.
malindi
Mmmm! I grew up in Indonesia and miss Mee Goreng terribly! I can't wait to try out the recipe. Thanks!
TheTinyFig
omg i love mee goreng. i eat it all the time at this place called hawkers (they sell street stall food) but it doesn't taste like the stuff you get in malaysia.
tldgrainwear
What an inspiring article...I'm so hungry right now! Cheers!
AnniesWearableArt
one of my favorite weekly errands-farmers market, right alongside antique-ing! nice article.
weirdwolf
I love farmers markets! Am definitely going to try this recipe. Yum.
christinadimeo
Yum! I hit the Minneapolis farmer's market every Thursday--can't wait to try this out!
Morado
Mee Goreng noodles are the bomb! specially the ones u get in Cafe Asia...yummmm
BelleMereBelleFille
I'm with you there on loving farmers' markets in summer, Michelle. Thanks for the photos, the book, the recipe suggestions.
trissia
yum yum! I buy this style of noodles in quick packs just like Top Ramen, they come with an oil and onions packet, a bumu powder packet and a dark soy packet. I can't wait to try out the real recipe. I was given these by an Indonesian friend and he taught me to eat it with a fried egg as well.
28Crash
Was just going to say that photo of the noodle dish is makin' me hungry and then I scroll down & see the recipe. Running out now to pick up the ingredients... okthanxbai!
iLuvKOSHi
I am a sucker for a farmers market & got my hubby hooked too. We go twice a week- Atwater on Sundays/Glendale on Thursday. Keeps us good on the fruits & veggies all week. The Glendale one has great fresh cut flowers & a fiddler(!), which really helps the vibe. Love that fiddler guy!
ooperhapsoo
my sister in law actually introduced us to mee goreng, too and instantly we were hooked!! she tops it with eggs just like that! awww makin me hungry! thank you for sharing!!
chakrapennywhistle
Wonderful article! Thank you for sharing the history! So happy to be included in the finds:)
funtoprint
Sounds soooo good! I think I'll give the recipe a try. Thanks!
glasfaden
Yummy!! You make me hungry and missing home, Michelle ;) Wish, our farmer market has food stall like Diana's..
bijougirldesigns
Awesome! That recipe looks like one I will certainly try. I also love going to the farmer's market - I love our city's markets. I go to them all the time!
shopgoodgrace
omg... must. buy. this book! What a great concept.... and you can't beat the special Etsy discount and free shipping! :)
bayousalvage
great recipe! we got our start at the crescent city farmers market.
check them out
www.marketumbrella.com
secretjewellz
Yum! Going to give this a try. Can't wait to eat it. Thankyou.
Great article btw.
PipocaHandmade
Thanks for sharing this recipe...it looks and sounds delectable!
Chaiwat15
very cool! I think them very delicious!! Please visit "www.Chaiwat15.etsy.com" that have a beautiful bag for everyone. Thank you.
HibouCards
Mee Goreng was my favorite dish to eat in Indonesia! Thanks for sharing the recipe I will definitely try it out :)
zeropumpkin
lol mee goreng. :D thats my country popular food :P
thats awesome :)
thesocialcellar
I should pick up that book for the kids at my sustainable living camp!
merryberry
I love farmers markets too! Me and my boyfriend love going to the LA farmers market and having Oyster Po boys. I love those B/W photos too
ScribbleShop
Haha, i grew up eating this in Malaysia. There are several variations. So great of Etsy to feature the recipe here!
octobeer
i'am suprised reading this menu because in my country, Indonesia, this recipe is very common and popular. but we add some coriander and a lot of spice, called 'cabai' for spicer taste instead paprika. we smash all the spice ingredient in traditional kitchen tools call 'ulek-an'. 'mih goreng kampung' or village fried noodle is how we called this menu in here.
175designshop
i haven't tried this recipe, but it sounds delish! being indonesian, sometime it's a pain trying to do the traditional recipes to the T. As Ocotobeer said above, instead of you use "ulekan" or mortar, you can use the food processor and mix up all the spices... yum just thinking about it making my mouth water!
pearlatplay
haha! must say i'm really surprised to see a Singapore dish (something I almost take for granted here) on Etsy website!
oops! can't say it's really a Singapore dish because it could have originated from Malaysia or Indonesia.. ;p
ScribbleShop
Yeah. It's a regional dish, more likely to have originated in Malaysia or Indonesia...
Damn, am i hungry now!
BejewelledBespoke
ohhH!! this is my favourite dish from Malaysia. Brings back memories of sitting at the outdoor restaurants or "mamaks" as they call it.
sandali
WOW ~~ what an amazing article !! I LOVE it -- I love markets. There is always amazing finds in every single corner !! Happy Days ;)
steinschmuckdesign
Hmmm...I am really no good in cooking...
but maybe I just try it:)
larsandaddie
I just tried the mee goreng recipe tonight! (With a few adaptations based on what we had available from our CSA.) The old man and I both loved it. Thanks for sharing!
pogoshop
Fantastic. I'm going to try this tonight. I love your farmer's market photos and the giant basket carts those folks were wheeling veggies out of the market with.
monkeyandsquirrel
i love love love farmers market. we have a great one here in charlotte nc!
LoveForEarth
That recipe looks to die for.*drool* and the vintage egg boxes...I want!
rkdsign88
Ehhmm sounds familiar. Mee goreng is one of my traditional favorite food, yummy!
littlemoandfriends
my mum cooks this all the time for lunch..i grew up eating mee goreng! the best ones are at the 'mamak' stalls with a glass of ice milo.
babook
Here i should to saying thanks for ''mtraub'' . Thanks of your inform i was really excited for it : )
kitchenstitchen
Lovely article. I LOVE our Farmer's Market here in the Midwest in Grayslake, IL. Not only do they have a huge variety of foods, there is always music, fun for the kids and artists booths. In fact, I've tried out my items in my own booth this summer!
crazybutcute
thank you so much for this beautiful article! I heart my farmers' market!
elisasherejewelry
This is such a cool article, thank you Etsy! You know us crafty types just love to cook and love our farmers markets!
fivestar944
when I lived in California there was this place called denio's Auction in roseville ca and they had the best food like in your picture and i would love to have it again and could you cook it and ship it to me HA HA hust kidding but it looks really good thanks for the memories
art4friends
oh thank you for featuring me!
and in an article about my MOST FAVOURITE thing ever.
FARMERS MARKETS! WOOO
vintagehomerecycled
That looks fantastic, I am trying that recipe tonight.
patspottery
We have some great Farmers Markets here in Southern Florida too!!
BusyButtons
That looks so delicious, I'm already hungry and I just ate lunch. I love the farmers markets, and feel so blessed to be living in LA where there's always good local food. Anyone been to the Hollywood farmer's market? I'm trying to try them all out, and it's next on my list!
AWEshop
Ohhh, I miss the LA Farmer's Market. I'm in Maryland now, which I love, but there is nothing like the LA Farmer's Market and all it eclectic food and vendors. hmmm... I wonder if the awesome French crepe place is still there!!!!...
BizzieLizzie
Oh, ADORE the Farmer's Market! I have fallen in love with Charlottesville's. If you are ever in VA - you must visit! There are LOTS of Etsy sellers there AND the food prepared there - is out of this world. I could walk, shop, eat and drink for hours there! Would love to visit LA's - I'm sure I could not imagine how incredible that place would be. The weather alone is intoxicating! Great article and FINDS!!
decors
It's a very common food over here in Malaysia, I am all thrilled to see it being featured in an international portal! :)
ssnowy99
I'm surprise to see this article in Etsy because Mee Goreng is a common food here, Malaysia and I believe it's common in countries like Indonesia, Singapore as well. This is also one of my favorite meal in my supper meal list ;9
You can easily find this in Hawker stall(Mamak stall we called)
Yummy...
LittleSecret8
Wow, delicious. I grew up in Malaysia and I'm also very surprise to see Mee Goreng in Etsy. Mee Goreng is a Malay words, means Fried Noodle. Have you visit Penang Island in Malaysia, it has a nick name called FOOD HEAVEN.
riise76
OMG! The lowly Mee Goreng has gone international! :D Malaysia and Singapore share the same roots when it comes to hawker food. But nothing beats having the real deal in it's home/s of origin!
And yes, Penang is home to some of the best hawker food in Malaysia.... perhaps even South East Asia! :D
thelooseleaf
I love this article, and think Farmers Markets should take over the world! :)
linsjewelbox
This is a 'must try' u guys! even if you are not the cooking kind. i lurve it that why i have mee goreng every week! =)
Go Asian food!
nataliabodre
every Saturday I buy vegetables from farmers market!!!!
vegetables from there have real taste!! great selection!



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Wow! that's a great article. LotZ of grand information!
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