After searching a country known for its wine and pastries, cookbook author Joan Nathan shares recipes collected from the Jewish traditions of France.



Photo: Courtesy of Kugels, Quiches and Couscous
Hutzel Wecken (Alsatian Hanukkah Fruit Bread) Yield: 2 Loaves
Most Jews in France prior to the twentieth century used handwritten cookbooks passed down from mother to daughter. Since Alsace-Lorraine was under German occupation between 1871 and 1918, the majority of the Jews living there read German, using many of the dozen or so kosher cookbooks published in Germany in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. Combing through these German books and her mother’s handwritten cookbook, Agar Lippmann, a caterer in Lyon, came across a recipe she had been trying to track down for years. Hutzel wecken, which literally means hat or dome-shaped little rolls in German, is a very old Hanukkah and To B’Shevat (the new year of trees) fruitcake rarely made today. I prefer it treated more as bread, sliced very thin and served with cheese or really good butter. My guess is that the peanuts were a later addition. If you don’t have all the different dried fruits and nuts, just use what you have. The recipe is very flexible. Once, when I made it for a party, some of the guests liked it so much that, unbeknownst to me, they took home little slices hidden in paper napkins for their breakfast! 2 cups chopped dried pears 1 cup chopped dried pitted plums 1 cup golden raisins 1 cup dried currants 1 cup roughly chopped dried figs 1 cup roughly chopped pitted dates 1/2 cup roughly chopped walnuts 1/3 cup salted peanuts 1/3 cup roughly chopped hazelnuts 1/3 cup roughly chopped almonds Grated zest of 1 orange Grated zest of 1 lemon 1/4 cup kirsch 1 tablespoon active dry yeast 2 1/2 to 3 cups all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons plus 1/4 cup granulated sugar 1 teaspoon salt 6 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar (optional) Put the pears and plums in a saucepan with water to cover by an inch. Bring the water to a boil, and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes, or until soft. Drain, reserving both the fruit and the liquid. Toss the pears and plums in a large bowl with the raisins, currants, figs, dates, walnuts, peanuts, hazelnuts, almonds, orange zest, and lemon zest. Add the kirsch, and toss again. In a separate bowl, dissolve the yeast in 1/2 cup of the reserved fruit liquid, and then add 1/2 cup of the flour, and 2 tablespoons of the sugar. Cover, and let rise for 1 hour. Stir in the remaining 2 cups flour, 1/4 cup sugar, and the salt. Knead the dough in the bowl of a standing mixer with a dough hook. Add the fruits and nuts, and, using a low setting, slowly stir into the dough. When everything is incorporated, turn the dough out onto a heavily floured surface, incorporating enough more flour to make the dough smooth and elastic. Even so, it will be a wet dough. Shape into a large ball, put in a greased bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let the dough rest for about 1 hour. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees, and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Divide the dough into two pieces. Form each piece into a round ball, and put both on the baking sheet. Let rest for 20 minutes. Bake, turning the temperature down to 375 degrees after 20 minutes, until the crust is golden and the dough is cooked through, 40 to 45 minutes. If you want, while the breads are baking, make a glaze by whisking together 1/2 cup of the fruit water and the confectioners’ sugar. As soon as the breads come out of the oven, spoon the glaze over them. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Photo: Latkes by slgckgc
Gretchenes Latkes (Buckwheat Onion Latkes) Yield: 8 Latkes
People often ask me what kind of latkes were eaten before potatoes came to the Old World from the New. This onion pancake gives us a taste of that past. Buckwheat, called farine aux Sarrazins or blé noir in French, is used for this recipe. Although rendered goose fat was traditionally the oil used in Alsace and elsewhere in Europe, oils made from safflower, walnuts, and other nuts and seeds were also used, probably pressed by the farmers who brought them to markets where they were sold. The recipe, although attributed as Alsatian in one cookbook, is clearly from eastern Europe, as the word “gretchenes” means buckwheat in Polish. 1 cup buckwheat flour 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon baking powder 2 large eggs 2 cups grated onions (about 2 medium) Vegetable oil for frying Sour cream or applesauce for garnish Stir the flour, salt, and baking powder together in a small bowl. Beat in the eggs, mixing well. Then stir in the onions. Heat a nonstick frying pan and add a film of oil. Ladle about 2 tablespoons of the flour mixture into the frying pan and heat, frying until golden, then flip and cook the second side. Eat alone or with sour cream or applesauce.