Decode the little stamps and listing details describing your dream piece of jewelry and “add to cart” with confidence.
Detailed listings are the key to really understanding the piece of jewelry you’re about to purchase, and Etsy jewelry shops provide tons of specifics about their styles. But what do jewelry terms like “925” and “gold vermeil” really mean? We’re breaking down the most common jewelry markings you might see stamped on a piece plus all the insider terms to help you evaluate a piece of fine jewelry online before purchasing.
A Glossary of Jewelry Terms:
All about gold jewelry markings
From gold jewelry identification markings to gold-filled versus gold-plated, there’s much more to choosing gold jewelry than meets the eye. Keep these common gold jewelry terms in mind as you shop.
What’s the difference between gold karats?
Unlike carats (with a “c”) which refer to the weight of a gemstone or diamond, a karat is the measurement used to indicate the purity of gold. A general rule of thumb when it comes to karats is “The higher the karat, the more pure the gold.”
24-karat gold is the most pure but also the least common gold for jewelry because it’s quite soft. Metal alloys like copper, silver, nickel, palladium, and zinc are often added to gold to increase its hardness.
- 18-karat gold is made of 75% pure gold and 25% alloys
- 14-karat gold is crafted with 58.3% pure gold and 41.7% alloys
- 10-karat gold contains 41.7% pure gold and 58.3% alloys
Gold jewelry features stamps, called hallmarks, to disclose the karat value. For instance, you may see a tiny 10K, 14K, or 18K on the inside edge of your gold ring or the clasp of your gold bracelet or necklace.
What does a 585 or a 417 mean on your jewelry?
These hallmarks are a way to identify precious metal purity using the millesimal fineness system, which indicates the number of parts of pure gold out of 1,000. 10K gold is marked 417, 14K gold is 585, and 18K gold is 750.
What is gold-filled jewelry versus gold-plated jewelry?
Gold-filled jewelry and gold-plated jewelry are both beautiful, budget-friendly alternatives to solid gold pieces, but there’s a difference between the two. Gold-filled jewelry is made with a thick layer of gold bonded to another metal base such as copper, brass, or sterling silver, resulting in durable, long-lasting pieces.
Gold-plated jewelry is made with a thinner gold layer, also applied to a metal base, and is generally less expensive than gold-filled designs. While gold-plated jewelry is also durable, it tends to chip and flake over time, so treat these pieces with extra care.
Tip: Avoid wearing gold-plated jewelry in the shower or take pieces off before swimming to avoid peeling or flaking. To prevent tarnishing, put your gold-plated jewelry in a plastic bag, squeeze out the excess air, and seal it. The lack of oxygen in the bag will help your jewelry retain its luster.
What is white gold?
Beautiful, luxurious, and lustrous, white gold is a highly popular choice among jewelry wearers. But why is it different from yellow gold? For starters, it looks different! White gold is often mistaken for platinum which is prized for its bright white shine. To tell the difference, look closely—platinum gives off a slightly grayer tone than white gold.
White gold is actually an alloy, made by mixing 75% 24-karat gold with 25% of a white metal, like silver, nickel, or palladium. This blend results in a light gray metal which is then plated with rhodium to achieve a beautiful sheen.
What is rose gold?
Romantic, trendy, and feminine, rose gold’s pinkish glow comes from a combination of 24-karat gold, copper, and sometimes silver. When mixed with the pure yellow gold, the colors of copper and silver create rose gold’s signature blush hue. Rose gold doesn’t tarnish, but you may notice it gets darker and slightly redder after years of daily, long-term wear, simply enhancing its charm.
A study of silver jewelry markings
Versatile, elegant, and timeless, silver jewelry adds polish and style to any outfit. There are a few different types of silver used for crafting jewelry, and each has its own distinct hallmarks.
The difference between fine silver and sterling silver
Silver in its purest form is too soft and malleable to fashion into jewelry. This applies to fine silver which is 99.9% pure silver. In order to make it workable, copper is added to fine silver to create sterling silver—a mix of 92.5% fine silver and 7.5% copper.
The number 925 stamped on silver jewelry or included in its description is the hallmark of sterling silver jewelry. This means the metal contains 925 parts of pure silver per thousand.
Tip: If you’re wearing sterling silver jewelry, it’s best to take it off before jumping into a swimming pool. Chlorine will react with silver, turning it brown or black.
What is silver-plated jewelry?
Silver-plated jewelry is just as beautiful and shiny as sterling silver, but the difference lies in its composition. Also known as silver electroplating, silver-plated jewelry is made with a thin layer of pure silver over a non-precious metal base, such as copper, pewter, or nickel. Silver-plated jewelry is a shimmery, affordable option to sterling silver and works well for jewelry pieces that won’t get a lot of wear and tear.
A primer on platinum jewelry markings
Rounding off the list of the most popular precious metals used in jewelry is platinum, coveted amongst fine jewelry buyers for its strength, durability, purity, and beauty. This precious metal carries its own hallmarks for easy identification.
What is platinum?
Rarer than gold, platinum is a soft, dense, precious metal known for its silvery-white color and brilliant shine. Because it’s extremely tarnish- and corrosion-resistant, platinum is a highly popular choice of long-wearing jewelry, such as engagement and wedding rings. And, because it’s typically 95% pure, platinum is naturally hypoallergenic, making it a great jewelry choice if you have sensitive skin that reacts to other metals.
Platinum hallmarks: PT 950 and PT 900
What does it mean if you see a PT 950 stamp on your platinum jewelry compared with a PT 900 stamp? These hallmarks refer to the platinum’s purity used in your jewelry.
If you see a tiny PT 900 stamp on your gorgeous platinum ring or bracelet, it means it contains an alloy of 90% platinum and 10% iridium or ruthenium, for hardness.
Platinum jewelry with a PT 950 stamp means it’s more pure—95% platinum and 5% iridium or ruthenium. Both platinum types are excellent choices that look fantastic while withstanding the rigors of regular wear.
How to read jewelry hallmarks and stamps
Where exactly do you find these elusive jewelry hallmarks? If there's no stamp, is the piece of jewelry still valuable? The answers to these common questions about jewelry hallmarks can help you better understand the piece you’re considering for purchase.
What are jewelry stamps?
Jewelry stamps are used by jewelers to indicate the purity and authenticity of precious metal jewelry, such as gold, silver, and platinum pieces.
How do you read jewelry hallmarks?
Jewelry hallmarks are made up of three symbols: the maker’s mark, the metal and fineness (purity) mark, and the assay office mark.
- The maker’s mark identifies the maker of the jewelry and consists of two letters within a surround.
- The metal and fineness mark indicates the content of precious metal in the jewelry, such as “K” for karat in gold jewelry and numbers like “925” for sterling silver, “585” for 14K gold, or “PT950” for platinum.
- The assay office mark features a symbol indicating the place where the precious metal jewelry’s purity was tested.
Where do you find jewelry stamps on a piece?
You can typically find jewelry stamps inside the band of your ring or on the clasp of your necklace or bracelet. On earrings, they’re usually printed on the earring post.
