I love what I do and I hope that fact is reflected in the care I take in bringing fashion treasures "back to life" through my historical patterns and replica antique garments for others to appreciate and enjoy.

This venture began when I realized that my training as a linguist and historian, together with my background in the theatre and fine arts, and the dressmaking skills I'd perfected, could be used to interpret and republish historical patterns that had almost become lost to time.

These are definitely not your ordinary sewing patterns! Each is the product of several weeks of effort, involving 10 or 11 steps before I'm actually able to publish a completed pattern. Despite being absolutely authentic historically, I strive to make my patterns accessible and in a format that will be familiar to anyone who has used a modern commercial pattern.

What does it take to make a truly great authentic antique sewing pattern?

Step #1 begins with choosing a design that speaks to me for one reason or another. Then comes the incredibly complicated-looking 100-year old (or older) pattern sheet, consisting of intersecting lines of various types, usually in French, and with little by way of directions but a few lines of text (see photo). The first task is to simply identify and trace off the required pattern pieces, and reconstitute the larger pieces from tiny reduced-size sketches. Then I draft any missing pieces such as cuffs, facings, pockets, etc. The result is a collection of taped-together rough looking pattern pieces, full of scribbled notes and pencil lines, ready to be turned into 3-dimensional reality.

Step #2 involves constructing a draft garment in muslin, and grading the design to more modern proportions or in a multi-size. The muslin pieces get scribbled and written all over, sometimes cut up, enlarged, altered and otherwise almost ruined in the process! Sometimes 2 or even 3 test muslins are needed. Once I'm satisfied that I've worked out the issues associated with bringing an antique pattern "back to life", I'm ready for the next step.

Step #3: I transfer all the information I've gathered from the 3-dimensional draft muslin back onto my draft paper pattern pieces. More notes, more scribbling, cutting, piecing, taping, correcting, and general messiness!

Step #4: I set up my pattern file on my laptop computer, and prepare the information I'll need for my sewing instructions. At this point, I assign each pattern piece a number and a name, and transfer those details onto my computer file.

Step #5: I cut out the various pattern pieces to enable me to actually sew a sample garment from the pattern.

Step #6 -- Starting to sew! Here is where multiple skills and knowledge of historical garment construction are required. I have my laptop running next to my sewing table, and while I visualize the construction steps and process (they're never like a modern garment), I write sewing instructions a few steps ahead of where I actually am, and complete those steps with my sewing machine (or hand stitching), making corrections to the text as I go. I then move on to the next portion, and so on, until I have a finished sample garment. This part of the process in itself takes anywhere from several days to 2 or 3 weeks. While I sew, I also make notes of any changes or alterations I may need to make on the paper pattern.

Step #7 - Back to the drawing board! Now drafting skills, intense concentration and attention to detail are essential, to produce my "master pattern" in permanent ink on vellum. This step often takes several days to a week or more, and I thoroughly review the whole pattern before it gets printed.

Step #8 - The pattern master goes off to the print shop to be scanned (and printed on bond paper for the paper patterns I sell).

Step #9 - Now I review and revise the sewing instructions, including finalizing size details, in preparation for publishing the pattern.

Step #10 - Next, I design a pattern cover with a copy of the antique sketch, take photos of the sample garment to include in the pattern listing (and digital file), then compile all the necessary digital files on the computer.

Step #11 - I publish my pattern online, and usually offer my sample garment for sale.

I sincerely hope you'll find in my patterns and replicas the antique treasures you've been looking for!

I do take a limited number of commissions to make antique replica garments, and can make a custom replica from almost any of my patterns. Contact me for details, or visit my website: www.thefashionarchaeologist.com.