cold porcelain recipes

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Original Post

Once I was interested in this clay and even started to collect information about it.Frankly I have no idea which one is the best and if the information is right or wrong.I'm just going to forward it here before another virus'll destroy my computer8-).

Posted at 11:39pm Jun 12, 2010 EDT

Responses

Cold porcelain is a relatively new craft phenomenon. It started about 30 years ago in South America and since then has grown rapidly in both popularity and availability. The quality of the clay has improved drastically in that time to have an amazingly smooth soft texture. It is perfect for sculpting very delicate pieces such as flowers and other plants. Now you can buy this ready made for your use, but its much more fun to make it at home. And the best part is you probably already have the ingredients!
Recipe for Cold Porcelain
1/2 Cup Water
3/4 Cup Elmers glue (or any white non-toxic school glue)
1 tsp. Ponds Cold Cream
1 tsp. Glycerin
1 Cup Corn Starch
1. Heat water, glue, cream, & glycerin in a non-stick pan over medium heat. Stir until bubbly.
2. Slowly mix in cornstarch stirring constantly.
3. Continue to mix until the ingredients takes on a smooth texture and start to form a ball. About one minute.
4. Remove from heat and cover with a damp cloth until cool enough to handle.
5. Knead mixture 3-4 minutes until consistency is smooth and slightly firm.
6. Enjoy, but DO NOT refrigerate. It will cause you dough to harden.
It's really that easy! Now, if you are into candle or soap making its entirely possible you already have glycerin in your stock of supplies. If not it is readily available at any large craft supplier. Look among the soap making supplies or ask a sales person to point you in the right direction. I find they're usually pretty helpful.
A few key facts to remember, always store your dough in an airtight container. It is called cold porcelain because it is meant to air dry not fire in a kiln. Also this is not food based so probably not the best to give the kids to play with. Otherwise have fun with your next new favorite craft

Posted at 11:40pm Jun 12, 2010 EDT

Here is Ms Florendo’s Cold Porcelain Recipe. She finds it better than gum paste, easier to work with, more resilient, unaffected by humidity. It also lasts for years. The flowers are even being exported. But not edible though non-toxic.
Cold Porcelain Recipe
3 tbsp mineral oil
3 tbsp keri lotion
1 tbsp glycerin
½ c water
1½ c white glue
2½ c cornstarch
3 tbsp sodium benzoate
1 tbsp rice starch
½ tsp eucalyptus oil
½ tsp sampaguita essence
½ c cornstarch for kneading
Mix all ingredients until well blended.
Cook for 10 minutes on medium fire until it forms into a ball.
Cook for another two minutes on low fire, mixing until it leaves the sides and the bottom of the pan.
Transfer to a table and knead the remaining ½ cup cornstarch.
Use a nonstick rolling pin, fold into three, roll again and fold until all the starch has been added.
Cool. Color as you wish with food coloring or store in tightly sealed containers.

Posted at 11:41pm Jun 12, 2010 EDT

Expect shrinkage of up to 30% as your pieces dry;
You may add powdered or liquid paint (see specific recipe for type of paint to use) either when making the clay or when you are ready to model it, but adding color before storing it reduces the clay�s shelf life;
Adding too much paint alters the recipe and could cause the dough to dry out or crack when cured - if you want intense color, reduce one of the liquid ingredients (water if using water-based paint, oil if using oil-based paint);
Projects may also be made with uncolored clay, then painted after curing;
A small amount of hand cream on your palms will help you make smoother forms;
Can be hand modeled, as well as pressed into molds;
Can be used to make molds, for example if you have a large cameo, make your own mold by pressing it into a flattened piece of clay, let dry, then make your own cameos using the mold (note they will be smaller than the original because of the double shrinkage;
Impressions like "Believe" or "Love" can be carved or stamped into the dough while soft;
To make jewelry beads, punch holes with a toothpick or skewer while the clay is soft;
To prevent beads from flattening while drying, string them on a stiff wire such as a piece of clothes hangar and suspend across a shoe box;
It takes an average of 2 days for a modeled object to dry at room temperature ;
For quicker results, preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Turn oven off. Place the project on a wire rack in the oven and leave until the oven has cooled off;
Cured objects may be smoothed by rubbing gently with sandpaper, emery board or emery cloth;
When dry, can be antiqued by painting over with black, gold, brown, etc., then burnishing off of the high surfaces with a soft cloth;
Spray cured project with Krylon acrylic sealer or brush on Delta Air-Dry PermEnamel Clear Gloss Glaze for a porcelain look;
Pastel colors will be darker when cured but can be lightened a bit if you seal as above;
Do not use your products for food or beverages [For explanation, read Polymer Clay Safety Tips , especially the section "Food and Polymer Clay" . The same logic applies.];
Store clay in a cool, dark place wrapped in plastic or sealed in a Ziploc bag placed in an airtight container.
Cornstarch Based Modeling
Cornstarch Modeling Clay Recipe #1
Cold Porcelain Clay
courtesy of Fiona Guagliano You can see some of Fiona's beautiful clay figurines by clicking here.
Her creations are both stunning and whimsical and are certain to inspire new craft ideas in you.
[I read somewhere in a Spanish website that authentic cold porcelain clay contains alabaster powder, but no matter, this looks like porcelain to me.]

1. Combine in a Teflon-coated pot:
1 cup polyvinyl acetate glue such as Elmer's Glue All
1 cup cornstarch
2 tablespoons Vaseline oil (not jelly) - if unavailable where you live, substitute baby oil or pharmaceutical grade mineral oil
1 tablespoon lemon juice.
2. Cook on low heat stirring constantly for 10 minutes or until dough forms and begins to come away from the sides. If you have a gas stove, you may need to use a heat diffuser under the pot to avoid burning the dough.
3. Remove from heat and allow to cool until you can handle it.
4. Knead into a smooth clay consistency.
5. Store in a cool, dark place at noted in tips above.
6. Tempura powder or acrylic paints may be used for coloring the dough.
Thank you, Fiona, both for the recipe, your craft ideas and for your delightful website!

Cornstarch Modeling Clay Recipe #2
Victorian Salt Clay
[Gosh, this recipe is so old; I don't even remember where I got it. If anyone knows the source, please let me know so I can give proper credit.]
Cornstarch
Cornstarch modeling clays containing salt are the most porous, so are only suitable for craft projects that have a rough or rustic finish.
1. Mix 2 cups salt and 2/3 cup water in a pan.
2. Mix 1 cup cornstarch and 1/2 cup ice water in a bowl.
3. Stirring constantly, heat salt combination over a low flame for about 4 minutes. Do not boil. If you have a gas stove, you may need to use a heat diffuser under the pot to avoid burning the dough.
4. Remove from heat. Quickly stir in the cornstarch and water. If mixture is too thin, return to low heat and stir constantly until of clay consistency.
5. Store in a cool, dark place at noted in tips above.
6. Tempura powder or acrylic paints may be used for coloring the dough.
Cornstarch Modeling Clay Recipe #3

Pasta Francesa
Variations of this recipe are very popular in Latin America. Many call for 10% formaldehyde (formalin or formol)*, but this is optional.
I believe it is much safer to purchase commercial polymer clays than to make your own. However, if you can purchase formalin* in your area and would like to try making your own polymer clay, read and follow the precautionary information provided by the University of California, Davis.

1. Mix in a Teflon-coated pot until completely dissolved:
1 cup cornstarch
1/2 cup water.
Add and incorporate
1 cup polyvinyl acetate glue such as Elmer's Glue All
Add and incorporate
1 1/2 tablespoons glycerin
1 1/2 tablespoons cold cream with lanolin
1 1/2 tablespoons white vinegar or 1/4 teaspoon formalin*
2. Cook on low heat stirring constantly until dough forms and begins to come away from the sides. Take care not to overcook or the dough will harden. If you have a gas stove, you may need to use a heat diffuser under the pot to avoid burning the dough.
3. Remove from heat, cover with a damp cloth and allow to cool until you can handle it.
4. Knead into a smooth clay consistency.
5. Store in a cool, dark place at noted in tips above.
6. Oil paints may be used for coloring the dough before curing; oil or acrylics may be used to paint after curing.

Posted at 11:45pm Jun 12, 2010 EDT

Cold porcelain can be made at home. It is time consuming and messy, however it can be done successfully if you follow the instructions below. A much faster, cleaner alternative is the ready made cold porcelain clay that I sell in my shopping cart. Premade, premixed, ready to use, with all of the benefits of homemade without the mess. If you prefer to make your own, use the recipe and instructions below.
1. Always keep the cold porcelain sealed in a completely air tight bag. It is an air drying material, so must be kept sealed. It can also be kept in a sealed bag in the freezer.
2. Use of cold cream on your hands will help you in working with the cold porcelain. Don't use too much, just a bit is enough to keep the CP from sticking to your fingers.
3. If your CP begins to get a bit stiff or slightly dried out, you can add a bit of cold cream to reconstitute and soften it up. Not too much, and just a bit at a time, till the CP is workable and soft again.
4. If you make your own CP, and find that it is too sticky, then additional corn starch added in small amounts and worked in till the correct consistency will help. Conversely, if it is too stiff, add a bit of cold cream.
5. Cold porcelain needs no baking, and will air dry beautifully and quickly. Be sure to place your finished pieces in a safe place while drying so that nothing gets set on top of them... or to keep the cat from eating them.....
6. You can create much thinner petals with CP than with sculpey. They can be nearly translucent. Just make sure that you use cold cream on your finger tips so that you do not distort the shape of the petals after flattening, and you can make them as thin as you want.
Cold Porcelain Recipe

3/4 cup of white glue (Elmers is recommended)
1/2 cup of water
1 teaspoon of cold cream*
1 teaspoon of glycerin
1 cup cornstarch
Heavy bottomed skillet - CAN NOT BE USED FOR FOOD!!
Mix wet ingredients until smooth over medium heat. Cook for a few minutes and add cornstarch. When adding cornstarch, add a bit at a time, and stir constantly while adding. Continue to cook over medium heat, stirring continually until the mixture forms a ball. Remove from pan and mix thoroughly with hands, using a kneading action. (I like to cover with a damp cloth until its cool enough to handle) Do not refrigerate. Keep in an airtight bag.
Notes:
* Ponds Cold Cream will do the job also Sorbolene (in Australia), which is what I use because I couldn't get cold cream. You will find Sorbolene at the supermarket or chemist (pharmacy). You could probably try any white hand cream with similar results.
Use as you would any modeling paste, can be molded and used in many ways... color before sculpting, or paint with any paint when dry.

Coloring:
I recommend coloring only small portions of a batch for the project you are working on. The CP will hold up for months if sealed well, but does dry out faster after it is colored.
A tiny dab of tube oil paints is the preferred method to color if you want to have a translucent clay. It does not dry out the clay as some water based paints and colorings might.
Using chalk pastels is another method. Sand off powder from the chalks onto a small bit of cold porcelain and knead until the color is blended.
Acrylic paints can also be used for painting the flowers where a deeper color is required. This may dry the clay out a bit, particularly over time. It will also give an opaque appearance.

Food colorings can also be used, however.
the disadvantage with the liquid food coloring is that it gives a solid, all over color and it shortens the working time.
For a more realistic shading of the flowers, try dusting the dry flowers with powdered food dye (same as used in cake decorating) and then hold in the steam of a kettle. The porcelain will absorb the color and looks much more natural.

Posted at 11:48pm Jun 12, 2010 EDT

Cold Porcelain Recipe There are many cold porcelain recipe s available, this is the one I prefer because it gives good result and is non-toxic.
Cold Porcelain Recipe:
1 cup pva glue (white glue like Elmer’s Glue All)
1 cup cornstarch
1 tablespoon mineral oil (babyoil)
1 tablespoon lemon juice, witchhazel, or clove oil (these are natural preservative that help prevent mold, optional but recommended)
Directions:
1. Combine ingredients in pot. Don’t use your good cookware for this because it can be hard to clean off.
2. Cook on low heat stirring constantly for 10 minutes or until dough forms and begins to come away from the sides.
3. Remove from heat and allow to cool until you can handle it.
4. Knead to a smooth clay consistency.
5. Store wrapped in plastic and refrigerated.
6.Color is translucent cream but can be tinted with acrylic or oil paint. White paint gives a true porcelain look. If you are using this clay with children make sure the paints are also non-toxic, some paint pigments contain toxic chemicals so check the label.
Model as you would any other clay, metal and smooth plastic work best for me as does keeping my fingers lubricated with a little mineral oil. The clay has a tendency to stick to wooden tools.
Keep any clay you are not using either wrapped in plastic or covered by a damp cloth to keep it from drying out while waiting to be used. If the clay it too sticky dust with a little more cornstarch and if it is a bit crumbly add a few more drops of mineral oil.
Dries in about 24 hours, expect 20-30% shrinkage.

Posted at 11:59pm Jun 12, 2010 EDT

amcreatures
POSTS: 8



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Posted On: Jun 12, 2010 at 7:13pm MST

Cold Porcelain modeling is a relatively new craft which is growing in popularity. The ready made, air-drying paste (called "CelPaste"), is imported and is supplied ready for use. It should be stored at room temperature and if it feels a bit firm, it can be warmed up by kneading a small amount between fingers. If it feels a little too soft, it can be exposed to the air for a few minutes and it will firm as the moisture evaporates. The paste comes in 3 types:
How to use Cold Porcelain Paste: CelPaste is now softer and more easy to use because it has more 'stretch'. It is the ideal medium for making flowers and floral decorations. Natural paste dries semi translucent and has a 'plastic' appearance, but if a whitener is added, the finish becomes opaque and porcelain like. Knead the natural paste briefly and than add a small amount of white gouache (or white oil paint) to obtain "whitened paste". DO NOT add too much whitener because the paste will be come dried and crumbly. To obtain colored paste, always mix some white in before adding the color and remember that the color will darken as the paste shrinks and dries, because the color becomes more concentrated. It is possible to use many different types of coloring - food colors, water colors, oil paints, acrylic colors etc., but we would recommend "Duo Aqua Oils", which dry quickly and give a very pleasing effect.
Although CelPaste can be rolled very thin for making flower petals etc., it is important to remember that it will shrink about 15-18% on drying, depending upon the thickness. Paste rolled too thin may have insufficient definition on drying. When thinning petal and leaf edges, use a rolling action rather than stretching metal ball tools work particularly well. It is possible to use a wide range of plastic and metal flowers cutters. All the petal shapes for a flower can be cut out and worked and veined before any assembly - the Asf es paste does not dry out as quickly as sugar, for example. Petals are attached to each other by using PVA glue (water soluble), and the flowers can be hung upside down to dry. If formers are used, remove after a while so that the underside can dry thoroughly. Flowers should normally be left overnight to dry, and large flowers may need longer. The petals can be slightly reshaped the next day by holding over steam and bending.
For figure modeling (e.g. figurines, animals, birds) large pieces should not be made from solid paste, because the surface will crack. For a central bulk use Styrofoam or paper mache, which may be fixed and supported on strong wires. For branches, the wires can be wrapped with absorbent paper (e.g. toilet paper) before adding the paste. Extra soft paste (paste with water added) may be added to a dried area and blended by rubbing over with wet fingers, without leaving noticeable joins.
For coloring, craft dusting colors and chalks may be used but the finished pieces then need to be sealed with a lacquer. Water colors and acrylics may be suitable for certain pieces and there is scope for experimentation. However, oil colors give pleasing effects, particularly for painting flowers, and they are the most resilient coloring medium - cold porcelain pieces painted in this way not only keeps their color, but can also be rinsed under a tap when dusty. Care needs to be taken to avoid using too much thinners however, because this will also give a finish which is plastic like!
Sugarcrafters should not place Cold Porcelain directly onto a cake surface. Though it is non-toxic, it is not an edible product and should not be used merely as a substitute for sugar!
Additional Information and Tips on usage: CelPaste has a 'shelf life' of at least 6 months and should be stored at room temperature in a cool dry place. Do not mix colors into paste that is going to be stored. To use the paste, knead a small and if you feel the paste is too soft to use, leave in the air for 10 minutes and knead, then repeat if necessary or until it is of the right consistency. If the paste seems too firm, then simply wrap in a damp cloth and leave for 30 minutes. It will absorb some moisture and can then be kneaded back to the desired consistency - repeat the process as necessary.
For paste that has gone very hard, you may still be able to recover a substantial amount by placing in a bowl of water for a while and then, after rubbing a little cold cream on hands, work and knead back to a soft and usable state - we have heard of one case where some paste was "lost" for over 2 years, but by placing in water and kneading etc., 95% of the paste could still be used!
CelPaste2 is a completely new formula paste (imported from Argentina) and is ideal for making flat plaques and mobiles and for the construction of boxes, buildings etc. It should not be used for flowers and figure modeling. To obtain a perfectly flat finish, lay the thin paste pieces on a "splatter guard" or similar fine mesh tray and dry in a cool (50-60°) oven, turning over about every 20-30 minutes. NB. The drying time will depend upon the thickness of the paste and if the oven is too hot, the paste surface may "bubble".
Cold Porcelain was started in South America approximately 30 years ago and was introduced to North America 6 years ago. Since then it has rapidly gained popularity, mainly due to its sturdiness (significantly less breakage) when compared to gumpaste or flower paste. Like gumpaste, there are numerous recipes for cold porcelain - however, many cannot be used on cakes. Below is the recipe that we use. As it is made with a non-toxic school glue, it can be can be placed safely on cakes. (This recipe is NON-TOXIC, therefore, the consumer should be made aware).
When using N.T. (non-toxic) Paste, Cold Porcelain some shrinkage will occur. We recommend that you increase sizing to accommodate for this shrinkage until you have experience in making and using N.T. Paste (Cold Porcelain).
Ingredients:
3 tblsp Mineral Oil)**
2 tblsp Sodium Benzoate (above)
5 oz. White School Glue (NON-TOXIC) MUST BE WASHABLE
1 tblsp Water
1 cup Cornstarch**
**Not all Mineral Oils and/or Cornstarch work the same, therefore, some experimentation with different brands may be necessary.
Method:
1. Place the mineral oil and sodium benzoate into a non-stick pan and stir together "OFF THE HEAT" with a
wooden spoon to incorporate the sodium benzoate and continue stirring until the mixture becomes milky in appearance.
2. Add the white school glue, using the tablespoon of water, rinse out the glue bottle. Add to the pan.
3. Add the cornstarch and mix over medium heat.
4. Continue stirring until the paste leaves the bottom and sides of the pan. Make sure you have cooked the
paste on both sides, a skin will form over the paste.
5. Tip out onto a counter or surface, that has been lightly dusted with cornstarch (cornflour). Knead well.
6. Read this part carefully. Place the kneaded paste on plastic cling film, which has a small amount of
mineral oil coated on it. Cover the paste but DO NOT seal completely until the paste is cold. When the paste has completely cooled, wrap well and keep in an airtight container.
We recommend that before using the cold porcelain you mix titanium dioxide (white paste or powder food coloring) into it. If not the paste will dry opaque (see-through) in color

Posted at 12:06am Jun 13, 2010 EDT

recipe of Cold Porcelain
Hello dear friends, many of you has been asking about the ingredients I use to make my cold porcelain clay.
The place where I buy materials is Lydia Manualidades, tienda.lydia.es/index.php?cPath=21&osCsid=lj424javn0htnp5bv5ag50al60 why? because I can find there everything I need to create to this wonderful clay. You also will find there paints, and a wide selection of cutters and molds for different flowers.
Anyway, for those that will feel a little lost, because the shop is in Spanish, I will be helping you to find the products by making links, so if you click in a name in green, you will be directed to the place where you will find it in the shop. I think it will be very easy for you to see the product and prices.
About the clay:
First I would like to tell you that the order to place the ingredients in the pot is not important at all.
For making the clay as I make it, you will need the following ingredients:

-A Teflon pot. To be used only for this intention
-A wooden spoon. To be used only for this intention
-250ml lydiacol
-150gm corn starch
-2tsp estearine
-1tsp Vaseline
-A pinch of citric acid This is very delicate ingredient, so it must be really very little, but it must be. If you put to much, the clay will turn very dry.
-1tsp porcelanizador. It makes the clay more opaque, white and translucent to make the flowers.
-1tsp liquid parafine
-1tsp nivea cream
-2tsp hot water in order to dilute the estearine.

Making the clay:
Dilute the estearine with the water, and place it in the pot followed by all ingredients, all together. Set a very low fire (the lowest you can get), and with the help of the wooden spoon, start mixing all ingredients (this procedure it is a little debilitating, because you have to keep on mixing, while the clay is getting harder) slowly and continuously until your clay will separate from the pot's walls. At this moment you will notice that the colour has change into a light vanilla colour. Give one more minute in the low fire, while changing up side down few times as it where an omelet. Set down the fire.
If you follow the steps as I have advise, you will have no problem with the next steps.
If you happen to have a peasant clay, don't worry, it is normal, if you did not mix continuously. Now is time to take the clay (careful with your hands, for it will be very hot) from the pot and place it in a clean surface, free of dust, and fat. At these stage, you will feel the clay it's still sticky in your hands.
Put a little nivea cream in your hands and in the surface you will work on. Start kneading good; against the surface as if you where making bread; later knead also between your hands, until the clay becomes smooth, and it begins to cool off.
When it is totally cold, I will recommend to place the clay in a hermetic container, in this way you will have your clay always ready to use when you wish, even after few months.

Problems after kneading your clay :

-The clay still sticks in my hands: give some more heat in the Teflon pot, always turning upside down as an omelet. The problem may be that the clay is not well cooked, and needs to dry a bit.
-The clay not smooth and it's breaking as I knead: 1.- To much citric acid, 2.- Over cook.

I hope this entry will help you.
Remember: The practice makes the master, so... never give-up.

Posted at 12:16am Jun 13, 2010 EDT