Have you ever heard of Fake Japanese Fabrics?
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I've encountered this before. I used to be in the costume business and spent a lot of time in the LA wholesale fabric district. Many fabrics are "knocked off" meaning the fabric's general style is copied (this is legal). But the example you have on your blog is not a knockoff--it's an exact copy/counterfeit, minus the name. You see this sometimes in the smaller, shadier fabric wholesalers. Someone in the real fabric's printing factory probably stole the pattern printing die and sold it to a third party printer, who recreated fabric using cheaper material (obviously the quality is much poorer than the original) and passed it on to the wholesaler at a cheap price. The wholesaler marks it up because the market will pay it...and then the seller is surprised, as you were.
I would try to get your money back. Although it's easy to blame the seller--the seller is not likely the producer of the fabric. That's a bigger fish somewhere up the food chain. The seller MAY not even know it was a ripoff of Kokka, since the name wasn't used.
I doubt that something like this can really be stopped, but you could contact the real manufacturer to see if they're aware. The original manufacturer is probably already WELL aware of it, though, because the unhappy buyers often try to return the poor quality fakes to the original manufacturer!
Posted at 9:17 am Sep 14, 2010 EDT