The dulcimer is a 3 (or 4) string instrument, with frets arranged for a major (do-re-mi...) scale. Modern dulcimers are usually tuned to open D or G, so that a simple chord is available at every fret.

The Two Basic Dulcimer Types:

(1) Traditional Appalachian Mountain dulcimer: a sound box, often in a teardrop or hour-glass shape, topped with a fret board. It's played horizontally on a table or the player's lap.

(2) Stick Dulcimer: guitar-like shape, i.e., fret board on a neck that opens into a small sound box. Smaller and lighter than a mountain dulcimer, it's held like a guitar for playing.

Another instrument, called a Hammered Dulcimer, is a very distant cousin. It has one string for each note, and it's played by striking the strings with small hammers. It's a historical accident that they're both called dulcimers.

A dulcimer has fewer strings than a guitar or ukulele. More importantly it has fewer frets--basically only the white keys of a piano. As a result, the dulcimer is much easier than other string instruments to play.

Dulcmers usually have just three string courses. If there are more than three strings, then one or more courses has doubled strings that are are tuned identically. The unison strings add volume and dimension to the sound.

Since it's a folk instrument, there are no rules about playing a dulcimer. Two basic styles, however, are common.

(1) Traditional Note-and-Drone play. In this style, a melody is played on the highest string while the other two strings create a droning accompaniment. Early mountain dulcimers often were not even fretted under the drone strings. Most players start out with this style, and many never move away from it.

(2) Chordal play. In this style, chords are formed much like those on a guitar or ukulele. Chord charts for stick dulcimers are readily available.

Of course many variants are common--that's part of the fun!

Tonewoods are always controversial among players and builders! Preferences are subjective and differences are subtle, but here are my observations based on over 300 instruments built:

NECK AND BACK WOODS
Cherry - rich, mellow
Maple - bright, clear
Padauk - bright, lively
Walnut - rounded, mellow

TOP WOODS
Aspen - rich, rounded
Cedar - crisp, lively

The outside woods, have most influence on the sound in about this order: Top, Sides, Back.

The wood piece is called the saddle, perhaps because the strings ride on it. Its placement is critical for the instrument's tuning (technically called its intonation).

The saddle's slant results from setting the outside strings individually to the proper position. The correct slant is individual to each instrument and is determined by trial and error.

The basic process is to (1) tune all three open strings to the correct pitch; (2) adjust the saddle so that the octave fret sounds the same note as the open string; (3) check the open tuning and re-tune if necessary; (4) check the octave note and readjust the saddle. Repeat for both outside strings until the correct notes are achieved.

It's a good idea to mark the saddle position with a light pencil line or a bit of masking tape before you begin.

1. Cut the string (or loosen tuning peg) and remove.

For newer (made in 2020) instruments:
2. Slip new string's ball end over headless pin.
3. Attach the string's free end to tuning peg and tighten.

For older (pre-2020) instruments:
2. Pull out the pin with a pliers:
(Remember that the pins are angled slightly downward.)
3. Place the pin through the new string's loop.
4. Tap the pin into place.
5. Attach the string's free end to the tuning peg and tighten.

If you need help choosing or finding strings, please contact me.

Yes. Our instruments play quite well without amplification, but playing in a band or accompanying a group would likely call for more sound than the instrument can provide. Also, since the internal pickup attaches to the wooden top, its sound includes more of the wood's timbre, creating a rich sound that some players prefer.