20 'Black Cherry' Tomato Seeds, Seed The Stars, Florida Heirloom Tomato Seeds, Florida seeds, Dark Tomato Seeds, Organic Tomato Seeds

Grow sweet-tasting, dark-red clusters of cherry tomatoes.
Disease resistant, indeterminate vines grow prolific fruit that are low in acidity and high in antioxidants as a result of their dark pigments known as anthocyanins. Dark fruit color variations develop from a mixture of green chlorophyll & red lycopene pigments. “Antho” varieties may also grow more red in slightly acidic soil & darker hues in slightly alkaline soil. Trellis vines vertically & prune suckers to increase airflow & prevent diseases.

Seed Specifications:
Black Cherry Tomato
Latin Name: Solanum lycopersicum
Zone: 5-11
Germination temperature: 75-95F
Germination days: 7-14 Days
Days to Maturity: 75 - 85 Days
Sun Preference: Full Sun/Shade
Sow Depth: 1/8 inch
Spacing: 2 Feet

**Tomato seeds are small, and in natural conditions will typically germinate on top of the soil. Remember this when you are seeding your tomatoes! The number one mistake we see with new growers is seeding to deep and using media with improper drainage .***

Seeds can be started, anytime when chance of frost has passed in warm climates. We start ours outside in seeding flats when weather is consistently above 70 degrees.
In cool climates you can start as early as 8 weeks before your last frost date in a temperature controlled environment to get a jump start on your growing season.

Tomatoes can take as little as 5 days or as long as two weeks to germinate depending on their environmental conditions. Tomatoes prefer consistent heat to germinate (70 - 80 F) so we recommend a heating mat or monitored conditions to keep the soil warm in cooler environments. Placing them up on top of the fridge often works too since it's normally a warmer location in the household. The longer you can consistently maintain temperatures around 70°- 80 F, the sooner they will germinate.

GROWING INSTRUCTIONS AND IMPORTANT INFORMATION:

Thank you for supporting our seed shop! To ensure germination success and get the best start with your seeds follow the recommended germination process and use the suggested methods. Our high germination rates can only be achieved using the methods shared below. Seed The Stars can not take responsibility for germination issues using other methods and materials.*

Store seeds in a cool dark place and use them within one year of purchase to maintain viability and high germination rates.

IMPORTANT PRE GERMINATION NOTES:

*Some seeds require soaking or scarification prior to germination. Soaking overnight or up to 24 hours helps to jump start the germination process for seeds with a hard seed coat while scarification involves gently scratching the seed coat to allow water to penetrate and hydrate the embryo.
* Some seeds like lettuce and certain flowers require light for germination. Please check the item listing for this information.
*Certain beans and peas have the ability to form a symbiotic relationship with Rhizobium bacteria to form root nodules that “fix” atmospheric nitrogen making it a great addition for your soil ecosystem. Seeds can be treated with a soil inoculant that contains the Rhizobium bacteria prior to planting to ensure that the beneficial bacteria is present. These inoculants can be purchased online or at some garden stores.

WHEN TO GROW:

- To figure out the best time to start your seeds first locate the "days to maturity" located in the item description or photo with Seed specifications in our Shop.
- Research your average first frost date(in the fall) and subtract the amount of days the seeds take to grow to maturity that you found listed on the packet.
If you still have adequate time before that first frost date and provide the ideal growing conditions you will likely have a chance at a successful harvest this season.
- To get a head start on your garden you can start seeds indoors 6- 8 weeks before your last frost date if providing the correct temperature, light, and properly sized containers.

STEPS TO GERMINATION:

1. Check the seed packet and this ETSY item listing for specific instructions and seed specifications.
2. Choose a proper sized container for your seeds. Most seeds should be started in containers such as seeding flats and pots up to 4- 6 inches to better control early growing conditions.
3. Fill containers with consistently moist (not soaked), well draining, and sterile soilless seed starting media. Heavy and poor draining soils can inhibit germination and reusing old soil can transfer organisms or plant diseases that can harm a seedling. We DO NOT recommend peat pods/discs or pots since they tend to wick moisture away from the media.
4. Create a small depression in your media and sow a few seeds at the depth recommended on the seed packet. A good guideline is that most seeds should be sown as deep as the seed is wide.
5. Lightly cover the seeds with media and water them in, make a note for the day of seeding.

*Keep the media consistently moist with a gentle spray or bottom-water containers to keep seeds at the same depth that it was sown. Place the pot/flat in an area that can maintain a temperature range close to the optimal germination temperature on the seed packet. Be careful not to overwater which can cause fungal growth, media compaction, and lead to rot.

*Germination time will vary depending on the environmental temperature. Starting seeds on a germination mat, or an environment indoors where temperature can be better maintained will speed up the germination process.

*Once germination occurs, place your container in a protected area with adequate filtered sunlight and thin each pot/cell to have only one seedling per hole. If you need to continue to grow your seedlings indoors due to outside temperatures being too cold and variable, we highly recommend using grow lights directly above seedlings to prevent leggy plants.

TRANSPLANTING/POTTING UP:

When seedlings have a second set of “true leaves” and have developed a root ball that stays intact when gently removing it from the container they are ready to be gently potted up or transplanted.

“Harden off” the young plants by gradually extending their time in sunlight and the natural elements that they will experience when planted out, therefore they are less likely to go into shock. Once they have acclimated, transplant them out to the garden or a new container and water deeply for the first three days.

If potting up to a larger container, use a mix of potting soil, compost, and something like perlite to create space and good drainage. Plant the seedling at soil level in the new container and water well.

When transplanting into the garden you can add a little compost in the planting hole when transplanting, mixing in with the soil in your garden bed. Plant at soil level in the garden, unless planting tomatoes which can be buried deeply which encourages root growth along the stem in the soil and more roots creates a stronger plant. .Top mulch around your plants, keeping compost away from the stem in pots or in the garden with a 1 to 2 inch layer of compost and reapply throughout the growing season. Water deeply for the first 3 days and then when the plant is established, allow the soil to dry out in between watering - watering the soil rather than the leaves in the mornings.

FERTILIZER & AMMENDMENTS:

We fertilize and maintain our plants using organic methods: fish fertilizer, worm castings, compost, Kelp, and OMRI list organic granular fertilizer made of poultry manure.

SEED SAVING:
To save seed, harvest fruit and squish out seeds into a jar to let ferment. After a few days the outer layer of seed breaks away, and you can wash away the pulp - being left with seed for your next crop.

Some plants cross easily while others self pollinate before there is a chance of crossing so if you are interested in saving seeds, we recommend you do a quick search on each species. If saving seed for the next growing season and you would like your next season plants to grow true to type make sure that you are only growing one variety of the same species or isolate your plants through distance/timing/netting to control cross pollination.

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