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L&P 2021: Glengarry Hat and Ribbon Cockade Pattern for 18 inch dolls such as American Girl — vintage doll style for the 1940s and beyond!



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The 1940s were a wonderfully inventive era for millinery. As war supply demands made fabric for new dresses scarce, designers and home sewers alike turned their creativity to crafting, decorating and re-decorating an array of glorious hats, mining nearly every traditional form and adding remarkable new forms as well. With Hollywood stars to model the results in front of audiences that broke every record for cinema attendance before or since... yes, the 1940s were a great era for hats.


Glengarry caps, or "bonnets," have been worn since the 18th century. Though initially a form of Scottish military headgear, the Glengarry quickly became popular for English and American civilians: not just men, but women and children as well. The style was particularly popular during the American Civil War era – and then again in the 1940s.

Lee & Pearl™ pattern #2021 takes the standard cap and exaggerates the lines ever-so-slightly into a more glamorous shape and a scale better suited to an 18" face. With a wide base, this hat sits squarely and securely on top of the head, though one can imagine Hollywood stars like Rosalind Russell or Ida Lupino wearing it at a rakish tilt, low over the forehead and close to one eye. Any modern 18" doll will want to wear this hat as well, either for its Scottish, military or just plain cool retro style.

To reduce bulk, our Glengarry has no central seam on the tip, and instead features a recessed construction to mimic the look of a fashionable molded felt hat. We have included directions for both a bias band facing and an optional full lining. Along with illustrated recommendations for trims that traditionally compliment the Glengarry shape – bias or shaped ribbon bands and feathers – we have added detailed directions for our own quick and foolproof technique to produce a jaunty ribbon cockade.

This hat is rated EASY/INTERMEDIATE for curved seams – but with a limited number of detailed, photo-illustrated construction steps and computer-drafted pieces guaranteed to fit together this pattern might be a good choice for a beginner who wants to become more comfortable sewing curves.



1/4 yard light or medium weight woven fabric or felt

OPTIONAL: 1/4 yard very light (or soft) fusible interfacing
(This pattern works best with fabrics that simulate the weight and flexibility of wool felt. Use your judgment to interface lightweight or loosely-woven fabric as needed.)

1/2 yard single-fold bias tape (directions are included for making your own bias tape, for which you will need 1/3 yard of lightweight woven fabric)

Matching thread


FInish your style with the trim of your choice: bias-cut ribbons or flexible millinery grosgrain (also called petersham or ribbon belting – look for the distinctive "toothed" edges), bias-cut fabric bands, ribbon bows, feathers, patches, beads, buttons, small jewelry findings, etc.

or make your own:


1 yard 3/8" ribbon

Scrap of felt or crinoline

1 bead or shank button

Sharp, slender pins
(use silk pins for silk ribbon)


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We love how this pattern looks with modern outfits, and also with the retro suits made from our Pattern #1943: "Molly Waves Goodbye" 1940s Suit for 18" Dolls – https://www.etsy.com/listing/167296786/lp-pattern-1943-molly-waves-goodbye

To see our other patterns, visit the PATTERNS section of our Etsy store at https://www.etsy.com/shop/leeandpearl?section_id=15862176&ref=shopsection_leftnav_1

To see our selection of Fabric & Trim Kits, visit the FABRIC & TRIM KITS section of our Etsy store at https://www.etsy.com/shop/leeandpearl?section_id=15860795&ref=shopsection_leftnav_2


This pattern will be delivered as an instant download. After purchasing, you will receive a link to a PDF copy of the file. No paper copy will be mailed.

This pattern may be printed solely by the original purchaser. It may not be duplicated, redistributed, posted or resold without prior authorization from Lee & Pearl™. If you use this pattern to make items to sell yourself, we ask that you give Lee & Pearl™ design credit in the description of those items. Thank you!

Lee & Pearl™ is not affiliated with Mattel, American Girl® or any other company or organization.

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2,961 reviews

5 out of 5 stars
5 out of 5 stars

This is a great pattern for an adorable hat! I reached out to Lee and Pearl and they went above and beyond in answering my question. Truly a lovely pattern with lovely designers behind it. Highly recommend!

Ava Smith Apr 10, 2021

5 out of 5 stars

I used this pattern to make a Glengarry hat for my Sheltie. It was the perfect size.

Michelle Dec 1, 2020

5 out of 5 stars

So cute! I adored the previous patterns purchase from Lee & Pearl. So I am sure I will adore this.

Charlene Jul 17, 2014

5 out of 5 stars

Plan to fashion this hat for several outfits in the making - with the cockade trim, the feather trim, and one with ribbon fastened with my son's father's pin from Scotland.

Carol Weiler Sep 8, 2015

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