L&P 3052: Pirates, Patriots and Princes 18th Century Men's Basics Pattern for 18 inch dolls such as American Girl — doll breeches, shirt

L&P 3052: Pirates, Patriots and Princes 18th Century Men's Basics Pattern for 18 inch dolls such as American Girl — doll breeches, shirt



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Make your own historically accurate 18th century male wardrobe for 18" dolls: SHIRT, BREECHES, WORK PANTS and LACE CRAVAT.

With this collection of male wardrobe essentials your 18-inch dolls — both custom boys and adventuresome girls — can explore the wonderful world of the 18th century. From the first appearance of Cinderella's pumpkin and glass slippers in the tales of Charles Perrault at the turn of the century, through the explorers, adventurers and pirates of the early 1700s, the historical milestones of Colonial and Revolutionary America, the glittering courts of Europe, and even the country squires and eligible bachelors from the earliest works of Jane Austen, a wealth of imaginative exploration will be open to you and your dolls!

Our perfectly-scaled man's SHIRT follows a formula of rectangle-cut and gusseted garments that dates back even before 1700. Modeled after extant garments and featuring a high collar, wide gathered sleeves, a faced front opening with a hook-and-eye or button-and-loop closure and a full-length back opening for easy play access, our shirt is period accurate for the entire 18th century, and on into the first decades of the 19th century. Blackbeard would have worn such a shirt, as would female pirates Anne Bonny and Mary Read. George Washington would have worn such a shirt while surveying the American wilderness in the 1740s — and while leading the Revolutionary forces in the 1770s and 80s. The Kings of France would have worn such shirts, as would the revolutionaries who toppled them. Even Jane Austen's fictional Mr. Darcy would have worn such a shirt. As an added bonus, we've included directions for the perfect 18th century shirt accessory — an easy and historically accurate LACE CRAVAT.

Our BREECHES pattern is based on examples from the first half of the 18th century, a style slimmed down from the flowing pantaloons of the 17th century, but not quite as body-consciously slender as the breeches of the later 18th century. True to this earlier period, our breeches feature a working front fly closure with a single row of decorative buttons. These breeches are especially good for Golden Age of Piracy (1716–1726) impressions, as well as Pre-Revolutionary America and Baroque Europe — and of course, 1740s Scotland for all your 18-inch Outlander fans. And though fall-front breeches would become more fashionable in the second half of the 18th century, the Smithsonian owns a pair of fly-front breeches worn by Benjamin Franklin in 1778.

This pattern includes period-accurate extra fullness and gathers in the breeches back, as well as the Lee & Pearl™ "No Crack Back" curved waistband for an excellent, active fit. Your doll should have no trouble striding, leaping and galloping in our breeches, while keeping a relatively sleek and elegant profile behind — the better to set off one of our favorite features of this style: a back vent with gusseted insert and waistband lacing. This historical feature allowed 18th century men to wear their pants without belts — and gives modern doll owners wonderful flexibility to fit the same garment on both older and newer American Girl™ dolls, as well as a range of other 18" dolls.

Last but not least, we made our 18th century canvas WORK PANTS using the same front fly closure, relaxed rear fit, curved waistband and laced back vent as our breeches. With a wide, straight leg ending just above the ankle, our version is a perfect match to the pants shown on infamous female pirate Anne Bonny in the pages of Captain Johnson's 1724 epic, A General History of the Pyrates. For anyone interested in 18" doll pirate impressions, these be the pants you are looking for!

This pattern is rated for INTERMEDIATE sewists. Though none of the steps are difficult, the gusset insertions require attention to detail, and some limited hand stitching is recommended. As usual, Lee & Pearl's photo-illustrated directions and computer-drafted, guaranteed-to-fit-together pattern pieces make each step as easy as possible.



For the MAN'S SHIRT:

1/2 yd (or one fat quarter) light weight woven cotton or very light weight linen fabric
NOTE: Many quilting cottons are too heavy and stiff to make good doll-scale 18th century shirts. Instead, we recommend light weight muslin, chambray or shirtings, very light weight cotton voile or fabric from upcycled men's dress shirts.

1/3 yard of 1/8" or 1/4" wide elastic
NOTE: the width of the elastic is less important than the stretchiness. To fit the full width of the sleeve, you will need elastic that can stretch from 3 1/4" to 8".

1 small hook and eye closure or OPTIONAL small button

Hook-and-loop closure (such as Velcro™) or OPTIONAL small (size 4/0) snaps

Matching thread


One 13" long x 3 1/2" wide strip of white or off-white lightweight cotton or very lightweight linen

Two scraps of lace, at least 3" wide each

Matching thread


1/4 yd (for the BREECHES) or 1/3 yd (for the WORK PANTS) medium or light weight woven fabric (brushed twill, flannel, baby wale corduroy, velveteen, lightweight velvet, linen, wool tweed, wool crepe; also Kona® cotton to emulate linen canvas and lightweight denim or twill for the work pants)

OPTIONAL scraps light weight woven fabric for lining

1 medium (3/0) snap and 1 (for the WORK PANTS) or 3 (for the BREECHES) small (4/0) snaps

3–4 (for the WORK PANTS) or 5–6 (for the BREECHES) small buttons

2 — 1/8" eyelets or grommets and eyelet/grommet setting tool

1/3 yd narrow ribbon or lightweight cord for the back vent lacing

Matching thread


Sign up for our mailing list at www.leeandpearl.com, and you'll receive our newsletter full of free pattern tweaks, tutorials, crafts and printables. PLUS, you'll get the link for our annual members-only FREE PATTERN.

Starting in December 2018, that's Lee & Pearl Pattern 1038: The Gift Bow Front Dress for 18 Inch, 16 Inch and 14 1/2 Inch Dolls.

While scouting the fashion pages and runway reports for inspiration, our pattern designer was struck by one of the prettiest trends we’ve seen in a long time. You’ve probably noticed it too — all those soft ruffles and gathers, interesting pleats and seams, bows and motifs formed out of the fabric of the dress itself. It’s an organic kind of ornamentation, that allows over-the-top frills while still retaining the elegant restraint of a vintage couture gown.

Our Bow Front Dress explores this lovely trend with pleated raglan sleeves, a draped front panel and inverted center front pleats that mimic the look of a tied ribbon bow. Best of all, we designed this dress to be made from a single quarter yard or fat quarter of ordinary woven fabric — a dress designed around the use of pretty fabrics should allow you to use a wide variety of pretty fabrics!

Do not miss out on this pattern — join our mailing list today at www.leeandpearl.com.

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To see our other patterns, visit the PATTERNS section of our Etsy store at https://www.etsy.com/shop/leeandpearl?section_id=15862176&ref=shopsection_leftnav_1

To see our selection of Fabric & Trim Kits, visit the FABRIC & TRIM KITS section of our Etsy store at https://www.etsy.com/shop/leeandpearl?section_id=15860795&ref=shopsection_leftnav_2


This pattern will be delivered as an instant download. After purchasing, you will receive a link to a PDF copy of the file. No paper copy will be mailed.

This pattern may be printed solely by the original purchaser. It may not be duplicated, redistributed, posted or resold without prior authorization from Lee & Pearl™. If you use this pattern to make items to sell yourself, we ask that you give Lee & Pearl™ design credit in the description of those items. Thank you!

Lee & Pearl™ is not affiliated with Mattel, American Girl® or any other company or organization.


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1,769 reviews 5 out of 5 stars


Sue Wheeler May 26, 2019

5 out of 5 stars
Lee and Pearl can be counted on for exquisitely detailed patterns that turn out when you follow the directions! Sometimes I think the directions are subdivided too much, like walking a path where only one step is revealed at a time. I love the historical notes! Very interesting pattern.

Purchased item:

Hedy mcclelland Apr 28, 2019

plbrandon11 Jul 13, 2018

5 out of 5 stars
Once again, this is a fantastic historical resource as well as a beautifully designed pattern.

Purchased item:

hutchinson09 Jul 12, 2018