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This is a classic Coach Tabac (Looks like Mocha ) Musette made in New York City at the original Coach Factory. The Coach Creed has the raised 'LEATHERWARE' stamp with registration No. 557-6521 and states it was 'Made in New York City, U.S.A.' where, according to the Coach Catalog, it was fancied by models, dancers, travelers, and photographers. It is my opinion this bag is made of mocha leather but others disagree. I originally believed the color was mocha but I was contacted by a Coach enthusiast who knew the history of this particular bag who advises me the color is tabac. She convinced me by having me look at the color of the leather on the reverse side of the inside pocket which is in fact tabac. It matches the color tabac in the 1981 Coach color chart in the collage in photo 5. I have been advised that the use of leather conditioners on the body of the bag darkened it over time.

The Coach Musette is one of the most sought after bags by Coach collectors, especially, where, as here, the creed expressly states it was made in New York City. To the casual observer, the Musette looks like the Coach Carrier and sellers often confuse the two. However, the two have some definitive differences which had to be pointed out to me by my friend and Coach mentor Diane. The Musette is smaller at 16" long while the Carrier is 17.5" long. Moreover, the Carrier has a full length back slip pocket while the Musette has no back slip pocket. This bag has a 16 inch strap drop.

We currently have a Coach Carrier listed so you might want to take a peek to see the differences:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/473635205/backtoschoolsale-coach-carrier-black?ref=shop_home_feat_3

I can track the Musette as far back as 1981 which is as far back as my catalogs go. However, according to my catalog collection, the Carrier is a newbie, having not been introduced until the Coach 1987 Holiday catalog. The Musette goes back to the 70's and possibly the 60's. This is how the Musette was described in Coach's 1983 Fall Catalog:

No. 9625 Musette Bag. $174. [ 1983 price]

Largest of Coach bags, this one is fancied by models, dancers, travelers and photographers. Two large outside pockets and an extra one inside. Solid brass stirrup buckles and turnlocks. Black, Mocha, Tabac, British Tan. Dimensions 16" x 11" x 5".

Condition:

This bag is in very good condition and structurally sound. There are no rips, tears or holes in the bag or the beading. The leather is soft and supple. However, like most bags in their 40's there are signs of age in the form of scuffs and scratches. But this aging process has added to its fine patina rather than detract from the bag. The bags biggest flaw are the ink marks in the interior base of the bag. [ See photo 5 collage- upper right photo] Other flaws are the darkening of the bag from conditioner over time and the Coach hang tag is not the original.

Please also note this bag was sold as an 'irregular' by Coach. [ see creed in photo 5]. Those who authenticate Coach bags advised me that this is additional proof of authenticity as no counterfeiter will claim their bag is irregular.

THE FACTORY

This bag was made in the NYC Coach Factory which means it is in the class of the most sought after vintage Coach bags. Coach no longer produces bags in the U.S.A. and the Factory is gone. The quality of the bags manufactured at the Coach NYC factory and the skills of the leather workers who produced them was memorialized in a book released in 1977 entitled "The Factory". Although commissioned by the owners of Coach, it is a testimonial to the skill and diversity of their work force Here are some excerpts from 'The Factory':

"The factory occupies two floors of a 12 story building in downtown New York City and employs about 125 members of the Pocketbook and Novelty Workers Union Local No. 1 AFL-CIO. It is the Coach Leatherware factory, and the people who work here make bags and belts out of leather and brass.

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Looking around the factory, out of town visitors are always struck by its rich ethnic mix. Like a microcosm of the City itself, every race, creed and national origin seems to be represented. In addition to 2nd generation New Yorkers, both black and white, there are Italians and those of Italian descent, Poles and those of Polish descent; likewise, Germans, Hungarians, Lithuanians, and Russians - as well as Cubans, Puerto Ricans, Dominicans, and a number of other Hispanics from Central and South America.

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Here in New York City we have recruited workers from what is undoubtedly the world's largest pool of skilled labor, and this has enabled us, over the years, to choose from the best in each category.

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"The leather goods industry is a highly competitive one. If Coach bags and belts have enjoyed a certain success in this field, it is precisely because they are made in New York City by those people whose skill, energy and quick intelligence make it possible to turn out a quality product at a fair price. [ The Factory: Portrait of a Leathergoods Factory in Downtown New York City; Pictures by Jeremy Lezin- Words by Miles Cahn; July 1977]

If you prefer a different style vintage bag, I have many in stock and you can see it at my shop at https://www.etsy.com/shop/ProVintageGear

Football Days Sale Coach Musette Mocha Leather Made In New York City At The Factory - Fancied By Models, Dancers- VGC

$449.10

Only 1 available


Overview

  • Vintage item from the 1980s
  • Materials: Supple mocha glove tanned leather, Brass stirrup buckles, Solid brass turnlock closures, Solid brass hardware, Two large outside pockets, Interior pocket, original Coach hang tag, Coach style number 9625, Made in New York City, 16 inches L x 9 inches H x 4 inches
  • Ships worldwide from United States
  • Feedback: 198 reviews
  • Favorited by: 15 people