Women's Woven Bodice Sloper, 30" to 48" High Bust, With B, C, and D Cup Sizes - PDF Format - Pattern Fitting and Drafting Aid

Women's Woven Bodice Sloper, 30" to 48" High Bust, With B, C, and D Cup Sizes - PDF Format - Pattern Fitting and Drafting Aid

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Digital download (5 PDF)

Description

This is a downloadable PDF pattern for a women's bodice sloper for a size range from 30" to 48" high bust. (This version is tiled for home printing on letter sized paper, but if you prefer large format files for printing by a copy shop or printing service, I also have a large format PDF version here: https://www.etsy.com/listing/680769748) It includes B, C, and D cup size variations for each size in the 12 size range.

This sloper pattern is for woven fabrics without stretch. A sloper or fitting shell is not a typical sewing pattern, but a basic shell that contains very little ease, intended to aid in finding your necessary pattern adjustments for adapting other patterns, or for use as a basis for pattern drafting.

This sloper is a basic bodice that extends to the hip. The front bodice has a waist dart and a bust dart for shaping. The back bodice has a shoulder and a waist dart. The sleeve has an elbow dart. It includes only enough wearing ease for movement, and is intended to closely skim the body. The wearing ease included in the pattern is approximately 1.5" at the full bust, .5" at the waist, and .5", 1.5", and 2.5" for B, C, and D cup variations respectively. It includes no seam or hem allowances.

You will receive 3 PDF files, one for each cup variation, where the pattern sizes are nested as pictured above. I've also included a measurement comparison worksheet and a chart of approximate finished sloper measurements to help with fitting and pattern adaptation.

HOW TO CHOOSE YOUR PATTERN SIZE


For my pattern sizing, I use the high bust measurement in inches as the size label. (I prefer to work with actual measurements because sizing conventions vary so much from brand to brand and country to country, and using specific measures eliminates some of the confusion that comes from vanity sizing and gradual industry shifts over time.)

Choose your pattern size by your high bust measurement, taken snugly, and choose the cup size that is the closest to your usual bra size. Your high bust measurement may not be the same as your bra band size, which is taken around the rib cage below the bust, and that's fine. The idea is to take the measure of your upper chest, which indicates the actual size of your frame, instead of your full bust, which doesn't really depend on your actual bone structure.) The idea is to match as closely as possible the size of your bone structure in your shoulders, neck, and upper chest, where these parts of the body intersect and all affect one another.

Then choose the cup size variation that is closest to the bra size you normally wear. So if you usually wear an A or B cup, choose the B cup size as a starting point. If your bra size is usually a C cup, start with the C cup variation. If your cup size is a D cup or larger, start with the D cup variation. You may require some adjustment to increase or decrease bust fullness, but it's usually much easier to start with as close a fit on the shoulders, neck, and upper chest and then adjust the bust and waist areas of the body than it is to choose a pattern size based on bust fullness. 

If you're unsure of your correct bra size, you can figure out which cup size is best for you by comparing your full bust measurement to your underbust measurement. The full bust measurement is taken over the fullest part of the bust, usually over the bust point/nipple area. The underbust measurement is taken around the rib cage, below the breast. Cup size is determined by the difference between these two measurements (full bust measure - underbust measure = inches difference). Each inch of difference is one cup size. B cup size means your full bust measure is approximately 2" larger than your underbust measure, C cup full bust is 3" larger than underbust measure, D cup full bust is 4" larger than underbust measure.

Another way you can choose your size is to measure your high bust measurement and your full bust measurement. Ideally your finished sloper will include approximately 1.5" of ease at the bust, so you can add 1.5" to your body measurements and then compare to the finished sloper measurement chart to find the sloper that will best match those measurements, giving priority to the high bust measurement, since you can adjust the full bust as needed. 

If you'd like more information on how to work with and adapt your sloper and other resources, please visit my website:

www.bluehoursatelier.com/sloper-basics-and-how-to-adjust-them-to-your-measurements

This item will be available for instant download as soon as payment is received, and files can be opened with free Adobe software (available at https://get.adobe.com/reader/) or your preferred PDF software. To print your PDF file, print at a size setting of 100% (taking care to make sure that no scaling or fitting to page settings are automatically selected). If you would like to test your printer settings first, there is a test square on page 16 of each pattern version that will measure 3" in height and width when printed correctly. (To print only this page, adjust your printer selections so that it prints a single page, and enter 16 in the appropriate field.)

If you purchase this format but would like the large format size as well, just message me. There is no need to purchase both variations.

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I don't accept returns, exchanges, or cancellations. But please contact me if you have any problems with your order.

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