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Dimensional Glaze (DG) Liquid Adhesive-Seals-Adheres Matte Images to Glass-Waterbase-Tip Applicator. Ink Jet Sealer White Glue (WG) offered

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It's finally here. We have been working on the formula for over a year and finally have what we are happy with :)
Our Dimensional Glaze Liquid Adhesive Seal is great for adhering images printed on matte or textured paper to glass. It can also be used as a top coat when you do not want to use glass at all. We use it with glass on images printed on Epson Presentation Paper. Epson paper and ink do not have issues with ink running.

Many Sellers don't really explain all of the variables having to do with this craft. We do. We offer solutions to every issue we have ever heard of and add more solutions as we learn more along the way. Our goal is to be sure you succeed.

This listing offers the following options - which I explain below:
~ 1 small bottle of Dimensional Glaze (DG) liquid adhesive - 2 oz bottle capped with 1 applicator tip
~ 3 small bottles of Dimensional Glaze (DG) liquid adhesive - each of the bottles is 2 oz capped with 1 applicator tip (6 oz total)
~ 1 bottle of Dimensional Glaze (DG) liquid adhesive - 4 oz bottle capped with 1 applicator tip
~ 1 small bottle of quality white glue (WG) - 2 oz bottle with cap - can be applied with a small brush or finger tip
~ 1 small bottle of Dimensional Glaze (DG) liquid adhesive + 1 small bottle of white glue (WG) ink jet sealer. Each bottle is 2 oz.
~ 1 small bottle of white glue (WG) ink jet sealer - 2 oz bottle capped (no applicator)
~ 1 bottle of white glue (WG) ink jet sealer - 4 oz bottle capped (no applicator)
WG - we buy Elmer's White Glue in bulk and put it into an economical bottle as a convenience to you to alleviate the potential problems caused by ink that bleeds, runs or blurs. You can certainly use any white glue you may have on hand. Mod Podge is also a great product for sealing paper. I love mod podge to protect paper when I use E6000 as E6000 has a tendancy to eat through paper during the curing process. Mod Podge solves that. Mod Podge is also a great sealer for ink and solves the problem of ink running. Some sellers try to make you believe you need to overspend to accomplish this. Hey, Elmer's has been around since 1947. It's always been a great sealant and safe.

Our Dimensional Glaze Liquid Adhesive can be compared to Diamond Glaze and 3D Crystal Lacquer. Both of those products can cause issues with ink and require an additional step - they sell a wax called micro glaze for that purpose. I never had any success with that product but some people love it. I tried it years ago when I had a Kodak printer and was struggling with ink problems. I eventually just switched to all Epson products and have never looked back. Our resin mfr told us that Espon paper is "not paper" and that is why it works with the resin and the water based top coat sealers. He was right, not sure what he means when he says their paper is not paper - lol.

ADVANTAGES of our DIMENSIONAL GLAZE formula:
~Meets or Exceeds USDA, FDA and OSHA Requirements
~Economical
~Durable and Long Lasting
~Dries Tack Free in Less than 15 minutes (when brushed on as a sealant)
~Full Cure in 6 hours
~Thinner formula makes our perfect for use with glass domes and tiles
~Low VOC Level of 120 Grams/Liter
~Easily applied with tip applicator, brush, roller, or spray bottle - we use the tip to put a nickle size round onto the image
~Easy water clean up
~Small bottles for freshness
~Exceptional bubble release

THINGS TO CONSIDER:
~No need to shake - this creates bubbles
~Many ink jet printers use water based inks, which can run or blur when used with glazes and glues
~Images may need to be sealed with a simple white glue or Mod Podge - both dry clear
~We offer an optional 2 oz or 4 oz bottle of white glue in our drop down menu - for your convenience
~You can buy it much cheaper elsewhere, we know, but we are using our own bottles, taking the time to pour it, label it......
~Do not freeze
~As with most glues and glazes, we advise working in a ventilated area
~Protection for hands and eyes as precautions is always advised
~The product is considered generally non toxic at low exposure
~Adult supervision and use is always advised for craft solutions

HOW TO USE:
~Switch your flat cap to the applicator tip top
~Rough cut your image from your printed collage sheet or use a hand punch to punch out your image
(One reason I rough cut my images is because the 'wet' paper tends to curl or get wavy and then I have to struggle to keep my glass flat on the Dimensional Glaze securely and securely centered on my image.. One advantage of using a punch and starting with your exact shape is you can actually seal how the Dimensional Glaze liquid is sealing the edges of the paper to the glass.)
~Put a circle of liquid onto your image. I like to use a random size about the size of a nickle on a 1 inch image. It really is not a critical decision as you will get a feel for how much seems comfortable to you. I actually like the liquid to extend past the image as I feel like it is a better adhesion.... could be in my head :)
~Gently place your glass on top of the image and lightly move it around - back and forth or circular are both fine. Look to be sure there are no bubbles under the glass.
~As you move the glass around on your image you will notice it getting less slick and the glass will get to a point where it stays where you want it.
~Check the glass periodically just to be sure it is still centered on your image, no bubbles have shown up and that it is holding a suction with the liquid - no air pockets. If any of these things happen then gently move the glass or apply some pressure to solve it.
~Once you are feeling like the glass is solidly on your image and no more risk of movement seems possible let it dry overnight.
~When the paper is dry and everything is looking beautiful take some small scissors and trim around the edge of your glass, if necessary.
~Inspect your glass/paper to be sure it looks like the paper is adhered well to the glass. You can take some white glue on your finger tip and lightly go around the edge. I don't bother with that but you can - you would be sealing the paper you just trimmed.
~If everything looks good you are ready to adhere your glass into the bezel. If you are new to this you may want to let the glass sit out on the table for a few days just to be sure it is going to hold up. The reason for this is because once you adhere the glass into the bezel it is very hard to pry out and you may not be able to reuse the bezel , should something go wrong in the curing process. If your glass has a problem after a couple days and it is not glued in you can soak it in warm water, clean it up and start again.
~Finished glass can be glued in with jewelers glue like E6000 (be sure your paper is sealed if you are not using Epson Paper).
~Many people use our adhesive seals for this step as they require no drying time, the are no mess, non toxic and come in 22 shapes. The only thing you need with the adhesive seals is sharp finger nails to peel off the 2 protective covers on each side :)

Here is a link to the adhesive seals:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/475188285/20-adhesive-sticky-shapes-dry-adhesive?ga_search_query=dry&ref=shop_items_search_1

_______________________________________________________________________
Shopkeeper added information and helpful hints:

I wanted to take a moment to add some general tips, hints, explanations and comments to all of my listings. After many years on Etsy, we have lived and breathed helping others learn how to make glass photo craft jewelry, I recently felt compelled to make a list of random tips and add it to all of my listings. Please note that we do not make claims of perfection and absolutes as crafting has far too many variables but we are offering our opinions from heartfelt personal experience. Your opinions and experiences may differ from ours. We learn from you. Some points here may not be relevant to the particular listing it is underneath but if you are browsing our shop then maybe you will find something that is helpful.

~Glass Craft Photo Jewelry Making Helpful Tips:

Sometime newbies may need clarification on terms - the terms - bezel, tray, link, pendant, cup style, recessed style - generally refer to a craft component that you could fill/decorate with a cabochon such as a corresponding size glass piece. Glass size (25mm) fits a bezel (25mm), for example. Some people call all glass 'domes' even when they are flat - so please keep that in mind :) Please ask if you are wondering.

• In regards to glass, domed means the top is rounded and the bottom is flat whereas flat means the top and bottom are both flat.

• In general, the material of a metal craft component for jewelry in our shop) is brass, metal alloy or iron.

• Brass is a softer metal which is punched into a shape to create the component. The tray size can vary a tiny bit on the top versus the bottom just due to the mfg process. Bails are often soldered on and are not unbreakable when adjusted through bending or straightening. Do not bend or ‘straighten’ soldered on bezels, loops or bails as this weakens the bond.

• Metal alloy is melted to a molten liquid that is poured into a mold to create the component. Bails and loops are part of the mold and generally sturdy.

• Iron is most often used for chains for necklaces and bracelets. A trick to know if something is iron is by seeing if a magnet will attract to it. Silver chains can be brass as it tends not to tarnish quite as quickly compared to iron that is silver plated.

• Brass and metal alloy are not magnetic. Iron will attract a magnet.

• The color descriptions (with the exception of silver and gold) are generally the tone of the piece, not the material. For example, copper is a color not a material. If you wonder please ask us.

• The color ‘shiny silver’ or ‘silver’ is silver plated. Silver plated is a very thin layer of actual silver over a base metal. Gold has a very thin layer of gold over a base metal.

• Silver in the finish which requires care and upkeep. If the base metal is metal alloy the piece will not tarnish very quickly. Some alloy pieces can take a year or even several years to show tarnish, but it depends on other factors and can vary, of course. I don't think I have ever seen any of my alloy supplies tarnish in all of my years working with them. Brass, on the other hand, will tarnish much more quickly – as in a week or a few weeks depending on environmental conditions. Iron seems to tarnish the most rapidly, in my experience.

• There are ways to maintain the brilliance of silver plated items but it requires some due diligence. Understanding the reason for tarnish is helpful. Tarnish is caused by exposure to air/oxygen and oils from your skin, among other external factors. This starts the oxidation process. It is important that the piece is wiped off with a jeweler’s cloth each night and stored in the velvet crevices of a jewelry box, or between cotton in a box, or in a felt pouch, for example. These same principles apply to storing your jewelry supplies. Wrapping them in tissue paper and/or tightly in poly bags and stored in plastic bins is a great start.

• Silver plated brass that tarnishes is sometimes showing the brass from underneath, which is why it looks golden in tone. If you wait until the piece is at this stage and you use silver polish to try to shine the item you risk actually rubbing that thin silver coating right off the brass. This explains why regular maintenance is important. This same principle could apply to silver plated iron and other base metals, as well.

• There really is no perfect substitute for the beautiful shiny silver but tones we like, which can be considered, are platinum, which looks like a shimmery thumb tack, or stainless steel, which is a bit darker and will not tarnish. Platinum, which is also called platina, is tarnish resistant but still has some silver in the plating and is prone to tarnish but at a slower rate than shiny silver plated. Rhodium is becoming more readily available as the cost seems to be coming down on that finish. Rhodium has not been shown to tarnish.

• We are often asked how to adhere a graphic to a piece of glass. There are many ways but the 2 most common ways are by using glues or glazes or by using an acid free archival quality 2 sided dry adhesive seal that is clear and sticky on both sides. The quality of the seal is very important.


o Glaze and glues are used with matte card stock paper because the paper will allow a bit of absorption to help facilitate the adhesion of the image to the smooth glass. You will need to watch for bubbles forming and check to be sure the glass does not slide off the image.
o Dry Adhesive Seals are used with glossy paper because the seal requires a perfectly smooth surface. We do not advise using luster, matte, quick dry or commercially printed images because they are, most often, not perfectly smooth. Seals are sensitive to texture, dust or oils. (oils from your fingers, finger prints). Due to the many variables, seals can take practice but really are quite simple. I have great results using glossy laser paper or glossy photo paper. It is important to note how ink jets put ink down. Sometimes black ink will go onto paper thicker which causes a 'texture'. I have solved this by using a thinner paper such as Hammermill Glossy Laser Paper. A high quality bright white copy paper has also been shown to work well. Always check to be sure your printer settings match your paper. Many printers work best using the mfrs brand of paper - ie, Epson paper with Epson printer.

o Regardless of which method you choose, experimentation with your specific variables will probably be worth the effort. I have seen so many examples of gals who have struggled for a week or two and now years later have thriving Etsy shops and we smile when we think back to those first few days as we worked to find the perfect methodology.

• When using glazes there are some variables to consider. Will the glaze cause the ink to run? Will the glaze cause some trays to turn color (green, usually). Will the glaze adhere well enough? From my experience, glossy Mod Podge is my choice because, in my experience, the ink will not run and the end result is fantastic. Mod Podge is a sealant which is why the ink will not be compromised. Your image will pop. My paper of choice is Epson Presentation Paper, which is a matte card stock. It is always best to experiment and test one piece of glass and let is set for a few days to fully cure before you make a mass production and adhere it into your bezel.

• Another question we are often asked is how to adhere the finished piece of glass into the bezel? The safest and fastest way is with our dry adhesive seals. They are made in the USA by a company with over 40 years in the craft adhesive industry. There is no wait time, it is non toxic, and the adhesive is so permanent you had better not misalign your glass because you may not be able to pry it back out. You can use a jeweler’s glue like E6000. Be aware that E6000 can eat through the back of some papers and compromise your image. You may need to seal the back of the paper first. Epson brand paper is the only paper that I know of that works with E6000 and does not need to be sealed but I still advise testing your 1st piece.

• The glass is craft glass, not optical glass. If you hold it to the light before you attach your graphic to it you may see silica, which is an ingredient in the glass. This is not visible to the naked eye once you get your image adhered. Over the years, the glass has gotten much better. My personal opinion is that flat glass is very, very clear. Domed glass is the most popular and fits the bezels, pretty much, seamlessly at the edges. If you need optic glass then our glass would not be right for you.

• We sell craft components. Not every piece is perfect but they are pretty darn good. We work very hard to find the best within the category. We even double silver plate most of our silver items so the silver is super shiny. We also have our glass packaged specially from the factory to minimize scuffs and damages. In bulk, the glass is packaged in trays so each piece has its own slot. Many customers buy the glass in 500+ piece bulk boxes now and love these new trays. Our smaller packs come in 2 piece poly bags or up to 20 pieces in a poly bag for smaller sized glass pieces. Our 12mm comes 100 in a pack,

• If you are looking for jewelry components or art supplies we may not be the shop for you as we are a craft supply shop. Please ask if you have questions or pick a sampler listing as a low risk test.

In conclusion, we are here to help you. I hope you found some value from my random list of helpful hints, tips and explanations. Please don't hold me liable for each word I say here and attack me with misspeak as I am trying to help people who want to be helped. (It is a sad day that I even have to say that last remark.) I truly wish you great success and happiness through crafting! It really is rewarding making your own unique piece and presenting it to someone who will smile and think of you when they see it each day.
************************************************
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
MUST READ!! IMPORTANT MESSAGE FOR ALL BUYERS TO READ:
~Crafting takes practice.
~There are many variables which can play a role in the outcome of every diy craft kit.
~We strongly encourage a first purchase to be a small sampling and will not be responsible for any loss due to testing your methodology.
~We promise to help you but can not guarantee that you will be successful because we do not know your particular variables. (printer, ink, paper, glue, finger dexterity, climate temperature, etc)
~We do promise to help you with more tips from our many years of experience.
~This list is only written due to a tiny handful of 'blamers', unfortunately.
It's finally here. We have been working on the formula for over a year and finally have what we are happy with :)
Our Dimensional Glaze Liquid Adhesive Seal is great for adhering images printed on matte or textured paper to glass. It can also be used as a top coat when you do not want to use glass at all. We use it with glass on images printed on Epson Presentation Paper. Epson paper and ink do not have issues with ink running.

Many Sellers don't really explain all of the variables having to do with this craft. We do. We offer solutions to every issue we have ever heard of and add more solutions as we learn more along the way. Our goal is to be sure you succeed.

This listing offers the following options - which I explain below:
~ 1 small bottle of Dimensional Glaze (DG) liquid adhesive - 2 oz bottle capped with 1 applicator tip
~ 3 small bottles of Dimensional Glaze (DG) liquid adhesive - each of the bottles is 2 oz capped with 1 applicator tip (6 oz total)
~ 1 bottle of Dimensional Glaze (DG) liquid adhesive - 4 oz bottle capped with 1 applicator tip
~ 1 small bottle of quality white glue (WG) - 2 oz bottle with cap - can be applied with a small brush or finger tip
~ 1 small bottle of Dimensional Glaze (DG) liquid adhesive + 1 small bottle of white glue (WG) ink jet sealer. Each bottle is 2 oz.
~ 1 small bottle of white glue (WG) ink jet sealer - 2 oz bottle capped (no applicator)
~ 1 bottle of white glue (WG) ink jet sealer - 4 oz bottle capped (no applicator)
WG - we buy Elmer's White Glue in bulk and put it into an economical bottle as a convenience to you to alleviate the potential problems caused by ink that bleeds, runs or blurs. You can certainly use any white glue you may have on hand. Mod Podge is also a great product for sealing paper. I love mod podge to protect paper when I use E6000 as E6000 has a tendancy to eat through paper during the curing process. Mod Podge solves that. Mod Podge is also a great sealer for ink and solves the problem of ink running. Some sellers try to make you believe you need to overspend to accomplish this. Hey, Elmer's has been around since 1947. It's always been a great sealant and safe.

Our Dimensional Glaze Liquid Adhesive can be compared to Diamond Glaze and 3D Crystal Lacquer. Both of those products can cause issues with ink and require an additional step - they sell a wax called micro glaze for that purpose. I never had any success with that product but some people love it. I tried it years ago when I had a Kodak printer and was struggling with ink problems. I eventually just switched to all Epson products and have never looked back. Our resin mfr told us that Espon paper is "not paper" and that is why it works with the resin and the water based top coat sealers. He was right, not sure what he means when he says their paper is not paper - lol.

ADVANTAGES of our DIMENSIONAL GLAZE formula:
~Meets or Exceeds USDA, FDA and OSHA Requirements
~Economical
~Durable and Long Lasting
~Dries Tack Free in Less than 15 minutes (when brushed on as a sealant)
~Full Cure in 6 hours
~Thinner formula makes our perfect for use with glass domes and tiles
~Low VOC Level of 120 Grams/Liter
~Easily applied with tip applicator, brush, roller, or spray bottle - we use the tip to put a nickle size round onto the image
~Easy water clean up
~Small bottles for freshness
~Exceptional bubble release

THINGS TO CONSIDER:
~No need to shake - this creates bubbles
~Many ink jet printers use water based inks, which can run or blur when used with glazes and glues
~Images may need to be sealed with a simple white glue or Mod Podge - both dry clear
~We offer an optional 2 oz or 4 oz bottle of white glue in our drop down menu - for your convenience
~You can buy it much cheaper elsewhere, we know, but we are using our own bottles, taking the time to pour it, label it......
~Do not freeze
~As with most glues and glazes, we advise working in a ventilated area
~Protection for hands and eyes as precautions is always advised
~The product is considered generally non toxic at low exposure
~Adult supervision and use is always advised for craft solutions

HOW TO USE:
~Switch your flat cap to the applicator tip top
~Rough cut your image from your printed collage sheet or use a hand punch to punch out your image
(One reason I rough cut my images is because the 'wet' paper tends to curl or get wavy and then I have to struggle to keep my glass flat on the Dimensional Glaze securely and securely centered on my image.. One advantage of using a punch and starting with your exact shape is you can actually seal how the Dimensional Glaze liquid is sealing the edges of the paper to the glass.)
~Put a circle of liquid onto your image. I like to use a random size about the size of a nickle on a 1 inch image. It really is not a critical decision as you will get a feel for how much seems comfortable to you. I actually like the liquid to extend past the image as I feel like it is a better adhesion.... could be in my head :)
~Gently place your glass on top of the image and lightly move it around - back and forth or circular are both fine. Look to be sure there are no bubbles under the glass.
~As you move the glass around on your image you will notice it getting less slick and the glass will get to a point where it stays where you want it.
~Check the glass periodically just to be sure it is still centered on your image, no bubbles have shown up and that it is holding a suction with the liquid - no air pockets. If any of these things happen then gently move the glass or apply some pressure to solve it.
~Once you are feeling like the glass is solidly on your image and no more risk of movement seems possible let it dry overnight.
~When the paper is dry and everything is looking beautiful take some small scissors and trim around the edge of your glass, if necessary.
~Inspect your glass/paper to be sure it looks like the paper is adhered well to the glass. You can take some white glue on your finger tip and lightly go around the edge. I don't bother with that but you can - you would be sealing the paper you just trimmed.
~If everything looks good you are ready to adhere your glass into the bezel. If you are new to this you may want to let the glass sit out on the table for a few days just to be sure it is going to hold up. The reason for this is because once you adhere the glass into the bezel it is very hard to pry out and you may not be able to reuse the bezel , should something go wrong in the curing process. If your glass has a problem after a couple days and it is not glued in you can soak it in warm water, clean it up and start again.
~Finished glass can be glued in with jewelers glue like E6000 (be sure your paper is sealed if you are not using Epson Paper).
~Many people use our adhesive seals for this step as they require no drying time, the are no mess, non toxic and come in 22 shapes. The only thing you need with the adhesive seals is sharp finger nails to peel off the 2 protective covers on each side :)

Here is a link to the adhesive seals:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/475188285/20-adhesive-sticky-shapes-dry-adhesive?ga_search_query=dry&ref=shop_items_search_1

_______________________________________________________________________
Shopkeeper added information and helpful hints:

I wanted to take a moment to add some general tips, hints, explanations and comments to all of my listings. After many years on Etsy, we have lived and breathed helping others learn how to make glass photo craft jewelry, I recently felt compelled to make a list of random tips and add it to all of my listings. Please note that we do not make claims of perfection and absolutes as crafting has far too many variables but we are offering our opinions from heartfelt personal experience. Your opinions and experiences may differ from ours. We learn from you. Some points here may not be relevant to the particular listing it is underneath but if you are browsing our shop then maybe you will find something that is helpful.

~Glass Craft Photo Jewelry Making Helpful Tips:

Sometime newbies may need clarification on terms - the terms - bezel, tray, link, pendant, cup style, recessed style - generally refer to a craft component that you could fill/decorate with a cabochon such as a corresponding size glass piece. Glass size (25mm) fits a bezel (25mm), for example. Some people call all glass 'domes' even when they are flat - so please keep that in mind :) Please ask if you are wondering.

• In regards to glass, domed means the top is rounded and the bottom is flat whereas flat means the top and bottom are both flat.

• In general, the material of a metal craft component for jewelry in our shop) is brass, metal alloy or iron.

• Brass is a softer metal which is punched into a shape to create the component. The tray size can vary a tiny bit on the top versus the bottom just due to the mfg process. Bails are often soldered on and are not unbreakable when adjusted through bending or straightening. Do not bend or ‘straighten’ soldered on bezels, loops or bails as this weakens the bond.

• Metal alloy is melted to a molten liquid that is poured into a mold to create the component. Bails and loops are part of the mold and generally sturdy.

• Iron is most often used for chains for necklaces and bracelets. A trick to know if something is iron is by seeing if a magnet will attract to it. Silver chains can be brass as it tends not to tarnish quite as quickly compared to iron that is silver plated.

• Brass and metal alloy are not magnetic. Iron will attract a magnet.

• The color descriptions (with the exception of silver and gold) are generally the tone of the piece, not the material. For example, copper is a color not a material. If you wonder please ask us.

• The color ‘shiny silver’ or ‘silver’ is silver plated. Silver plated is a very thin layer of actual silver over a base metal. Gold has a very thin layer of gold over a base metal.

• Silver in the finish which requires care and upkeep. If the base metal is metal alloy the piece will not tarnish very quickly. Some alloy pieces can take a year or even several years to show tarnish, but it depends on other factors and can vary, of course. I don't think I have ever seen any of my alloy supplies tarnish in all of my years working with them. Brass, on the other hand, will tarnish much more quickly – as in a week or a few weeks depending on environmental conditions. Iron seems to tarnish the most rapidly, in my experience.

• There are ways to maintain the brilliance of silver plated items but it requires some due diligence. Understanding the reason for tarnish is helpful. Tarnish is caused by exposure to air/oxygen and oils from your skin, among other external factors. This starts the oxidation process. It is important that the piece is wiped off with a jeweler’s cloth each night and stored in the velvet crevices of a jewelry box, or between cotton in a box, or in a felt pouch, for example. These same principles apply to storing your jewelry supplies. Wrapping them in tissue paper and/or tightly in poly bags and stored in plastic bins is a great start.

• Silver plated brass that tarnishes is sometimes showing the brass from underneath, which is why it looks golden in tone. If you wait until the piece is at this stage and you use silver polish to try to shine the item you risk actually rubbing that thin silver coating right off the brass. This explains why regular maintenance is important. This same principle could apply to silver plated iron and other base metals, as well.

• There really is no perfect substitute for the beautiful shiny silver but tones we like, which can be considered, are platinum, which looks like a shimmery thumb tack, or stainless steel, which is a bit darker and will not tarnish. Platinum, which is also called platina, is tarnish resistant but still has some silver in the plating and is prone to tarnish but at a slower rate than shiny silver plated. Rhodium is becoming more readily available as the cost seems to be coming down on that finish. Rhodium has not been shown to tarnish.

• We are often asked how to adhere a graphic to a piece of glass. There are many ways but the 2 most common ways are by using glues or glazes or by using an acid free archival quality 2 sided dry adhesive seal that is clear and sticky on both sides. The quality of the seal is very important.


o Glaze and glues are used with matte card stock paper because the paper will allow a bit of absorption to help facilitate the adhesion of the image to the smooth glass. You will need to watch for bubbles forming and check to be sure the glass does not slide off the image.
o Dry Adhesive Seals are used with glossy paper because the seal requires a perfectly smooth surface. We do not advise using luster, matte, quick dry or commercially printed images because they are, most often, not perfectly smooth. Seals are sensitive to texture, dust or oils. (oils from your fingers, finger prints). Due to the many variables, seals can take practice but really are quite simple. I have great results using glossy laser paper or glossy photo paper. It is important to note how ink jets put ink down. Sometimes black ink will go onto paper thicker which causes a 'texture'. I have solved this by using a thinner paper such as Hammermill Glossy Laser Paper. A high quality bright white copy paper has also been shown to work well. Always check to be sure your printer settings match your paper. Many printers work best using the mfrs brand of paper - ie, Epson paper with Epson printer.

o Regardless of which method you choose, experimentation with your specific variables will probably be worth the effort. I have seen so many examples of gals who have struggled for a week or two and now years later have thriving Etsy shops and we smile when we think back to those first few days as we worked to find the perfect methodology.

• When using glazes there are some variables to consider. Will the glaze cause the ink to run? Will the glaze cause some trays to turn color (green, usually). Will the glaze adhere well enough? From my experience, glossy Mod Podge is my choice because, in my experience, the ink will not run and the end result is fantastic. Mod Podge is a sealant which is why the ink will not be compromised. Your image will pop. My paper of choice is Epson Presentation Paper, which is a matte card stock. It is always best to experiment and test one piece of glass and let is set for a few days to fully cure before you make a mass production and adhere it into your bezel.

• Another question we are often asked is how to adhere the finished piece of glass into the bezel? The safest and fastest way is with our dry adhesive seals. They are made in the USA by a company with over 40 years in the craft adhesive industry. There is no wait time, it is non toxic, and the adhesive is so permanent you had better not misalign your glass because you may not be able to pry it back out. You can use a jeweler’s glue like E6000. Be aware that E6000 can eat through the back of some papers and compromise your image. You may need to seal the back of the paper first. Epson brand paper is the only paper that I know of that works with E6000 and does not need to be sealed but I still advise testing your 1st piece.

• The glass is craft glass, not optical glass. If you hold it to the light before you attach your graphic to it you may see silica, which is an ingredient in the glass. This is not visible to the naked eye once you get your image adhered. Over the years, the glass has gotten much better. My personal opinion is that flat glass is very, very clear. Domed glass is the most popular and fits the bezels, pretty much, seamlessly at the edges. If you need optic glass then our glass would not be right for you.

• We sell craft components. Not every piece is perfect but they are pretty darn good. We work very hard to find the best within the category. We even double silver plate most of our silver items so the silver is super shiny. We also have our glass packaged specially from the factory to minimize scuffs and damages. In bulk, the glass is packaged in trays so each piece has its own slot. Many customers buy the glass in 500+ piece bulk boxes now and love these new trays. Our smaller packs come in 2 piece poly bags or up to 20 pieces in a poly bag for smaller sized glass pieces. Our 12mm comes 100 in a pack,

• If you are looking for jewelry components or art supplies we may not be the shop for you as we are a craft supply shop. Please ask if you have questions or pick a sampler listing as a low risk test.

In conclusion, we are here to help you. I hope you found some value from my random list of helpful hints, tips and explanations. Please don't hold me liable for each word I say here and attack me with misspeak as I am trying to help people who want to be helped. (It is a sad day that I even have to say that last remark.) I truly wish you great success and happiness through crafting! It really is rewarding making your own unique piece and presenting it to someone who will smile and think of you when they see it each day.
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MUST READ!! IMPORTANT MESSAGE FOR ALL BUYERS TO READ:
~Crafting takes practice.
~There are many variables which can play a role in the outcome of every diy craft kit.
~We strongly encourage a first purchase to be a small sampling and will not be responsible for any loss due to testing your methodology.
~We promise to help you but can not guarantee that you will be successful because we do not know your particular variables. (printer, ink, paper, glue, finger dexterity, climate temperature, etc)
~We do promise to help you with more tips from our many years of experience.
~This list is only written due to a tiny handful of 'blamers', unfortunately.

Reviews

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Returns & exchanges

I gladly accept exchanges
Contact me within: 3 days of delivery
Ship items back within: 7 days of delivery
I don't accept returns or cancellations
But please contact me if you have any problems with your order.
The following items can't be returned or exchanged
Because of the nature of these items, unless they arrive damaged or defective, I can't accept returns for:
  • Custom or personalized orders
  • Perishable products (like food or flowers)
  • Digital downloads
  • Intimate items (for health/hygiene reasons)
  • Items on sale
Conditions of return
Buyers are responsible for return shipping costs. If the item is not returned in its original condition, the buyer is responsible for any loss in value.

FAQs

We process orders as they come in and ship daily by USPS. Our pick up is generally around 9am EST. If your order comes in we try our best to get it out as we stay caught up 24 hours a day :) Please check our banner and announcements for updates.
By all means. Please add a note in the box at checkout. Our turnaround time may increase by 1 (or 2) days because we will have to drop the parcel off at a FedEx drop off.
YES!! We ship nearly every Saturday, We try to post an announcement on our banner on our home page if we can't ship due to vacation or illness. Please check to be sure - but 99.9% of the time we do ship on Saturdays.
If you are having trouble ordering please reach out to us. We only ship orders to the EU by request due to laws which make it a risk for us. If you are trying to place an order but are having trouble please send us a convo and we will research the situation to see if we can ship to you. If you are in the EU then you must agree to our no refund/ exchanges only policy. You will be responsible for the return shipping if you decide you would like to exchange any merchandise. Customs and duty will be your responsibility. Sorry to be so harsh, but the law has encouraged scamming which hurts everyone.
Our items are intended for adult purchases and to be used by adults only. Small pieces can be a choking hazard to young children. We sell only to adults over 18 years of age. By purchasing you agree to keep items away from children and indemnify seller of any and all liability. Buyer agrees to release Seller from any liability when making the decision to purchase. By making the decision to purchase our items you agree to be responsible for all laws in your state and country applicable to the safety and handling of the products and all other legal issues that may arise. Please ask questions if specific issues are not stated in my listing. We recommend that you request a sample to test. Thank you.
MEASUREMENTS - Craft pieces have descriptive measurements which can vary due to the handmade nature. Some people refer to items in inches and others talk in millimeters. Often times, for example, 1 inch and 25 mm are used interchangeably even though they are not the same exact measurement. We try very hard to offer items that work together and we can not be responsible for slight variations in size descriptions. 16mm trays work with 16mm glass, for example, We welcome your questions and will not be responsible for dissatisfaction resulting from artisan characteristics perceived by the buyer as flaws. Please request a sample to test. Handmade lengths can vary by 5-10%.
Many of our items are made in China. Items are made in batches and many are handmade. Each batch can vary slightly in color and other features. As artisan crafters ourselves - for over 25 years - we inspect each batch of inventory as it arrives and we try to add comments and updates to the listings. It is hard for us to know which batch each customer has had previously. Please, please ask us if you have any questions. We will try our best to work with you to get what you are searching for :)
Absolutely!!! We do set our pricing as everyday low pricing because we understand that many buyers like to order in small quantities. We do have a bulk section for listings 100+ which do often times have better rates so please check out that category and see if those items may work for you. Feel free to shoot over a convo and I can check inventory and see if I can offer a discount on something you may not see in the bulk section. Our goal really is not to run out of things :) without sacrificing on offering great quality craft components at reasonable pricing.
Coupon codes are on our Banner and/or in our announcements under the banner. One coupon per order. Coupons must be inputted by the buyer.
Throughout the year we offer Freebie listing.
Yes - you can find tracking located on your receipt in Etsy. There is a link for updates right on your receipt (upper right corner) for your convenience. Your receipt is found under "YOU" "PURCHASES".
We also have a listing on our featured area under the banner for upgrades.
In general, our supplies need no real care with the exception of silver plated items. Silver always tarnishes when exposed to air. It will oxidize over time. In some cases it takes a year if the item is alloy or a few weeks if the item is brass or iron. With care and attention, you can easily offer shiny silver items without worry. First, keep your supplies wrapped up in plastic/tissue paper. If an item does tarnish use a silver polish to shine them up. If you are selling silver items to the public you may want to provide care instructions for silver items. Antique finishes really do not require much care at all :) If you have questions please just ask.

Dimensional Glaze (DG) Liquid Adhesive-Seals-Adheres Matte Images to Glass-Waterbase-Tip Applicator. Ink Jet Sealer White Glue (WG) offered

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