Dimensional Glaze (DG) Liquid Adhesive-Seals-Adheres Matte Images to Glass-Waterbase-Tip Applicator. Ink Jet Sealer White Glue (WG) offered

Dimensional Glaze (DG) Liquid Adhesive-Seals-Adheres Matte Images to Glass-Waterbase-Tip Applicator. Ink Jet Sealer White Glue (WG) offered

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Description

It's finally here. We have been working on the formula for over a year and finally have what we are happy with :)
Our Dimensional Glaze Liquid Adhesive Seal is great for adhering images printed on matte or textured paper to glass. It can also be used as a top coat when you do not want to use glass at all. We use it with glass on images printed on Epson Presentation Paper. Epson paper and ink do not have issues with ink running.

Many Sellers don't really explain all of the variables having to do with this craft. We do. We offer solutions to every issue we have ever heard of and add more solutions as we learn more along the way. Our goal is to be sure you succeed.

This listing offers the following options - which I explain below:
~ 1 small bottle of Dimensional Glaze (DG) liquid adhesive - 2 oz bottle capped with 1 applicator tip
~ 3 small bottles of Dimensional Glaze (DG) liquid adhesive - each of the bottles is 2 oz capped with 1 applicator tip (6 oz total) (We may send a 4oz and a 2 oz)
~ 1 bottle of Dimensional Glaze (DG) liquid adhesive - 4 oz bottle capped with 1 applicator tip
~ 1 small bottle of quality white glue (WG) - 2 oz bottle with cap - can be applied with a small brush or finger tip
~ 1 small bottle of Dimensional Glaze (DG) liquid adhesive + 1 small bottle of white glue (WG) ink jet sealer. Each bottle is 2 oz.
~ 1 small bottle of white glue (WG) ink jet sealer - 2 oz bottle capped (no applicator)
~ 1 bottle of white glue (WG) ink jet sealer - 4 oz bottle capped (no applicator)
WG - we buy Elmer's White Glue in bulk and put it into an economical bottle as a convenience to you to alleviate the potential problems caused by ink that bleeds, runs or blurs. You can certainly use any white glue you may have on hand. Mod Podge is also a great product for sealing paper. I love mod podge to protect paper when I use E6000 as E6000 has a tendancy to eat through paper during the curing process. Mod Podge solves that. Mod Podge is also a great sealer for ink and solves the problem of ink running. Some sellers try to make you believe you need to overspend to accomplish this. Hey, Elmer's has been around since 1947. It's always been a great sealant and safe.

Our Dimensional Glaze Liquid Adhesive can be compared to Diamond Glaze and 3D Crystal Lacquer. Both of those products can cause issues with ink and sometimes require an additional step - they sell a wax called micro glaze for that purpose. I never had any success with that product but some people love it. I tried it years ago when I had a Kodak printer and was struggling with ink problems. I eventually just switched to all Epson products and have never looked back. Our resin mfr told us that Espon paper is "not paper" and that is why it works (ink does not blur or run) with the resin and the water based top coat sealers. He was right, not sure what he means when he says their paper is not paper - lol.

ADVANTAGES of our DIMENSIONAL GLAZE formula:
~Meets or Exceeds USDA, FDA and OSHA Requirements
~Economical
~Durable and Long Lasting
~Dries Tack Free in Less than 15 minutes (when brushed on as a sealant) - longer dry time when used under glass
~Full Cure in 6 hours
~Thinner formula makes ours perfect for use with glass domes and tiles
~Low VOC Level of 120 Grams/Liter
~Easily applied with tip applicator, brush, roller, or spray bottle - we use the tip to put a nickle size round onto the image
~Easy water clean up
~Small bottles for freshness
~Exceptional bubble release

THINGS TO CONSIDER:
~No need to shake - this creates bubbles
~Many ink jet printers use water based inks, which can run or blur when used with glazes and glues
~Images may need to be sealed with a simple white glue or Mod Podge - both dry clear
~We offer an optional 2 oz or 4 oz bottle of white glue in our drop down menu - for your convenience
~You can buy it much cheaper elsewhere, we know, but we are using our own bottles, taking the time to pour it, label it......
~Do not freeze
~As with most glues and glazes, we advise working in a ventilated area
~Protection for hands and eyes as precautions is always advised
~The product is considered generally non toxic at low exposure
~Adult supervision and use is always advised for craft solutions
~Always test one piece to be sure the product works with your various supplies (ink, glass, paper, printer)
~Commercially printed images sometimes have a sprayed on residue that can inhibits absorption which is inexplicable

HOW TO USE:
~Switch your flat cap to the applicator tip top
~Rough cut your image from your printed collage sheet or use a hand punch to punch out your image
(One reason I rough cut my images is because the 'wet' paper tends to curl or get wavy and then I have to struggle to keep my glass flat on the Dimensional Glaze securely and securely centered on my image.. One advantage of using a punch and starting with your exact shape is you can actually seal how the Dimensional Glaze liquid is sealing the edges of the paper to the glass.)
~Put a circle of liquid onto your image. I like to use a random size about the size of a nickle on a 1 inch image. It really is not a critical decision as you will get a feel for how much seems comfortable to you. I 'float' my glass on the image - I don't press down. I actually like the liquid to extend past the image as I feel like it is a better adhesion.... could be in my head :)
~Gently place your glass on top of the image and lightly move it around - back and forth or circular are both fine. Look to be sure there are no bubbles under the glass.
~As you move the glass around on your image you will notice it getting less slick and the glass will get to a point where it stays where you want it.
~Check the glass periodically just to be sure it is still centered on your image, no bubbles have shown up and that it is holding a suction with the liquid - no air pockets. If any of these things happen then gently move the glass or apply some pressure to solve it.
~Once you are feeling like the glass is solidly on your image and no more risk of movement seems possible let it dry overnight.
~When the paper is dry and everything is looking beautiful take some small scissors and trim around the edge of your glass, if necessary.
~Inspect your glass/paper to be sure it looks like the paper is adhered well to the glass. You can take some white glue on your finger tip and lightly go around the edge. I don't bother with that but you can - you would be sealing the paper you just trimmed.
~If everything looks good you are ready to adhere your glass into the bezel. If you are new to this you may want to let the glass sit out on the table for a few days just to be sure it is going to hold up. The reason for this is because once you adhere the glass into the bezel it is very hard to pry out and you may not be able to reuse the bezel , should something go wrong in the curing process. If your glass has a problem after a couple days and it is not glued in you can soak it in warm water, clean it up and start again.
~Finished glass can be glued in with jewelers glue like E6000 (be sure your paper is sealed if you are not using Epson Paper).
~Many people use our adhesive seals for this step as they require no drying time, they are no mess, non toxic and come in 22 shapes. The only thing you need with the adhesive seals is sharp finger nails to peel off the 2 protective covers on each side :)

Here is a link to the adhesive seals:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/475188285/20-adhesive-sticky-shapes-dry-adhesive?ga_search_query=dry&ref=shop_items_search_1

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Shopkeeper added information and helpful hints:

(With new safety laws in California it is important that you read our section on safety, legal and allergies.) You can find it by scrolling down and in our FAQ. If you can't find it you can convo us and we can provide you with the details. Factories have made the changes nearly a decade ago due to CPSIA - we explain our stance on this in our policy/FAQ/must read sections.

We do recommend that you consult with a legal adviser as the laws are far too complex to tackle on your own. (in my opinion)

IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT BASE METALS USED FOR OUR CRAFT JEWELRY SUPPLIES:
We go into greater details below but it is important that you ask us in a convo if you have specific requirements. In general, the base metal is brass, metal alloy or iron. Colors are names - like copper, platinum, platina, stainless steel, silver, to name a few. These are usually not the base metal or a solid metal, thus the cost being quite low, with the exception of some light weight stainless steel items that are the base metal of stainless steel. Please ask in a convo.

****DIY Kit Supply Component Quantity Options are Now In The Listing Title****

I wanted to take a moment to add some general tips, hints, explanations and comments to all of my listings. After many years on Etsy, we have lived and breathed helping others learn how to make glass photo craft jewelry, I recently felt compelled to make a list of random tips and add it to all of my listings. Please note that we do not make claims of perfection and absolutes as crafting has far too many variables but we are offering our opinions from heartfelt personal experience. Your opinions and experiences may differ from ours. We learn from you. Some points here may not be relevant to the particular listing it is underneath but if you are browsing our shop then maybe you will find something that is helpful.

~Glass Craft Photo Jewelry Making Helpful Tips:

Sometime newbies may need clarification on terms - the terms - bezel, tray, link, pendant, cup style, recessed style - generally refer to a craft component that you could fill/decorate with a cabochon such as a corresponding size glass piece. Glass size (25mm) fits a bezel (25mm), for example. Some people call all glass 'domes' even when they are flat - so please keep that in mind :) Please ask if you are wondering.

• In regards to glass, domed means the top is rounded and the bottom is flat whereas flat means the top and bottom are both flat.

• In general, the material of a metal craft component for jewelry in our shop) is brass, metal alloy or iron.

• Brass is a softer metal which is punched into a shape to create the component. The tray size can vary a tiny bit on the top versus the bottom just due to the mfg process. Bails are often soldered on and are not unbreakable when adjusted through bending or straightening. Do not bend or ‘straighten’ soldered on bezels, loops or bails as this weakens the bond. If you need to know if a specific item is brass please ask in a convo. We have noticed that sometimes the listing tags are auto populated with platform upgrades over the years. We want you to be sure you have accurate information specific to the listing you are considering.

• Metal alloy is melted to a molten liquid that is poured into a mold to create the component. Bails and loops are part of the mold and generally sturdy.

• Iron is most often used for chains for necklaces and bracelets. A trick to know if something is iron is by seeing if a magnet will attract to it. Silver chains can be brass or iron. Both tend to tarnish quite quickly. Many people use antique silver chains with shiny silver alloy pendants.

• Brass and metal alloy will not attract a magnet. Iron will attract a magnet.

• The color descriptions (with the exception of silver and gold) are generally the tone of the piece, not the material. For example, copper is a color not a material. If you wonder please ask us.

• The color ‘shiny silver’ or ‘silver’ is silver plated. Silver plated is a very thin layer of actual silver over a base metal. Gold has a very thin layer of gold over a base metal.

• Silver is the finish which requires care and upkeep. If the base metal is metal alloy the piece will not tarnish very quickly. Some alloy pieces can take a year or even several years to show tarnish, but it depends on other factors and can vary, of course. I don't think I have ever seen any of my alloy supplies tarnish in all of my years working with them. Brass, on the other hand, will tarnish much more quickly – as in a week or a few weeks depending on environmental conditions. Iron seems to tarnish the most rapidly, in my experience.

• There are ways to maintain the brilliance of silver plated items but it requires some due diligence. Understanding the reason for tarnish is helpful. Tarnish is caused by exposure to air/oxygen and oils from your skin, among other external factors. This starts the oxidation process. It is important that the piece is wiped off with a jeweler’s cloth each night and stored in the velvet crevices of a jewelry box, or between cotton in a box, or in a felt pouch, for example. These same principles apply to storing your jewelry supplies. Wrapping them in tissue paper and/or tightly in poly bags and stored in plastic bins is a great start.

• Silver plated brass (a large percentage of our items are brass) that tarnishes is sometimes showing the brass from underneath, which is why it looks golden in tone. Also, silver plating is a thin thin layer of sterling silver, which is made up of a mix of pure silver and other metals such as copper (~7%), aluminum, zinc, for example.) If you wait until the piece is at this stage and you use silver polish to try to shine the item you risk actually rubbing that thin silver coating right off the base metal. This explains why regular maintenance is important. This same principle could apply to silver plated iron and other base metals, as well.

• There really is no perfect substitute for the beautiful shiny silver but tones we like, which can be considered, are platinum, which looks like a shimmery thumb tack, or stainless steel, which is a bit darker and will not tarnish. Platinum, which is also called platina, is tarnish resistant but still has some silver in the plating and is prone to tarnish but at a slower rate than shiny silver plated. Rhodium is becoming more readily available as the cost seems to be coming down on that finish. Rhodium has not been shown to tarnish.

We are adding stainless steel options. Craft jewelry components are basic stainless steel. Stainless steel contains at least 10% chromium and, depending on the grade of the stainless steel, it may include smaller percentages of nickel, molybdenum, titanium, niobium and other metals. Although stainless steel jewelry doesn't tarnish, it can scratch. Stainless steel jewelry is pretty easy to clean. I like Sheila Shine if a shiny glossy finish is sought after.

We are often asked about higher quality stainless steel. For example: What's the difference between 304 and 316 stainless steel? The simple answer is 304 contains 18% chromium and 8% nickel while 316 contains 16% chromium, 10% nickel and 2% molybdenum. The molybdenum is added to help resist corrosion to chlorides (like sea water and de-icing salts). Our craft items are not these versions unless specifically stated in the listing. The price points don't generally fit our target market and it is unrealistic to expect .50 items to be fine jewelry grade, but sometimes we get lucky and find a earring back or a post in 304.

• We are often asked how to adhere a graphic to a piece of glass. There are many ways but the 2 most common ways are by using glues or glazes or by using an acid free archival quality 2 sided dry adhesive seal that is clear and sticky on both sides. The quality of the seal is very important.


o Glaze and glues are used with matte card stock paper because the paper will allow a bit of absorption to help facilitate the adhesion of the image to the smooth glass. You will need to watch for bubbles forming and check to be sure the glass does not slide off the image.
o Dry Adhesive Seals are used with glossy paper because the seal requires a perfectly smooth surface. We do not advise using luster, matte, quick dry or commercially printed images because they are, most often, not perfectly smooth. Seals are sensitive to texture, dust or oils. (oils from your fingers, finger prints). Due to the many variables, seals can take practice but really are quite simple. I have great results using glossy laser paper or glossy photo paper. It is important to note how ink jets put ink down. Sometimes black ink will go onto paper thicker which causes a 'texture'. I have solved this by using a thinner paper such as Hammermill Glossy Laser Paper. A high quality bright white copy paper has also been shown to work well. Always check to be sure your printer settings match your paper. Many printers work best using the mfrs brand of paper - ie, Epson paper with Epson printer.

o Regardless of which method you choose, experimentation with your specific variables will probably be worth the effort. I have seen so many examples of gals who have struggled for a week or two and now years later have thriving Etsy shops and we smile when we think back to those first few days as we worked to find the perfect methodology.

• When using glazes there are some variables to consider. Will the glaze cause the ink to run? Will the glaze cause some trays to turn color (green, usually). Will the glaze adhere well enough? From my experience, glossy Mod Podge is my choice because, in my experience, the ink will not run and the end result is fantastic. Mod Podge is a sealant which is why the ink will not be compromised. Your image will pop. My paper of choice is Epson Presentation Paper, which is a matte card stock. It is always best to experiment and test one piece of glass and let it set for a few days to fully cure before you make a mass production and adhere it into your bezel.

• Another question we are often asked is how to adhere the finished piece of glass into the bezel? The safest and fastest way is with our dry adhesive seals. They are made in the USA by a company with over 40 years in the craft adhesive industry. There is no wait time, it is non toxic, and the adhesive is so permanent you had better not misalign your glass because you may not be able to pry it back out. You can use a jeweler’s glue like E6000. Be aware that E6000 can eat through the back of some papers and compromise your image. You may need to seal the back of the paper first. Epson brand paper is the only paper that I know of that works with E6000 and does not need to be sealed but I still advise testing your 1st piece.

• The glass is craft glass, not optical glass. If you hold it to the light before you attach your graphic to it you may see silica, which is an ingredient in the glass. This is not visible to the naked eye once you get your image adhered. Over the years, the glass has gotten much better but it still does have silica. My personal opinion is that flat glass is very, very clear but it still has silica. Domed glass is the most popular and fits the bezels, pretty much, seamlessly at the edges. If you need optic glass then our glass would not be right for you.

• We sell craft components. Not every piece is perfect but they are pretty darn good. Finishes can vary by batch, Vintage can sometimes be lighter, darker, shinier or "dirty". Black can sometimes be shiny or matte and can even "chip", which is an intrinsic characteristic of that color and the process. Black is the only color we have seen do this and we are very limited on the black items we offer. Gun metal is almost always glossy but very rarely it can look vintage. Please ask us to check our inventory for a specific characteristic you may prefer. Craft supplies can have slight imperfections which are intrinsic characteristics. If it important to consider some craft pieces are 1/10th the cost of a similar art or jewelry comparison. If you need perfection please don't shop craft- jewelry components. In our industry the bezel is a base for a much more important focal element. We work very hard to find the best within the category. We even double silver plate most of our silver items so the silver is super shiny. We also have much of our glass packaged specially from the factory to minimize scuffs and damages. In bulk, the glass is packaged in trays so each piece has its own slot. Many customers buy the glass in 500+ piece bulk boxes now and love these new trays. Our smaller packs come in 2 piece poly bags or 20 pieces in a poly bag for smaller sized glass pieces or even 100 is the 12mm. We often pick the pieces for your order from the tray packs and find the glass to be very, very good quality, based on the available glass offered in the craft industry. We also use this glass in our own crafting business. Our 12mm comes 100 in a pack,

• If you are looking for jewelry components or art supplies we may not be the shop for you as we are a craft supply shop. Please ask if you have questions or pick a sampler listing as a low risk test.

• I wanted to discuss the topic allergies, safety and legal. First, nickel (the ingredient often responsible for allergic reactions), lead and cadmium may be an ingredient in metal. Back about 10 years ago laws were enacted for products worldwide.

We can not say we comply with the California Laws. We know our metal components in our magnet-button craft category are made in the USA and do NOT comply with California Prop 65.
Sellers are required to prove safety for products sold to anyone under 15. We sell to adults online. Children do not shop and pay online, to my knowledge. The way to provide a certificate of safety is by contracting a lab to melt down each product from each batch and analyze the ingredients to see if they fall within the legal limits. It is very expensive and would need to be done continually for every item ordered and reordered costing more money per year than our estimated sales. If you think about that, it is pretty much an impossible task. Even if we did tests, how could we possibly know if each little piece in each bag is from the same batch made in China? And remember, the item tested is melted/ruined and unsaleable. How can I stamp everything as 'safe' and guarantee that everything is safe when the safe pieces were ruined/melted? If you have the answer I would love to hear it. The fines of $100,000 per offense and jail are more than I would think anyone would want to risk. I have not reviewed whether the laws were amended since 2009 when many of us children's mfrs consulted lawyers and made a mass exodus from the baby and children's industry. Also, I am not a lawyer and make no claims to what I believe to be true from a legal sense. That being said, I know I am allergic to nickel. I know I used to hear from customers asking about their allergic reactions. I have not heard of allergic reactions in many years... maybe 7 years now. When the lead laws were first passed, lead could be tested using an XRF machine. We sent in many of our components for testing. The majority of our components tested within the limits and that was back in 2010, before the factories made many of their adjustments. The factories we buy from sell worldwide, of course. They produce products that should be legal worldwide. We do not have any reason to believe the products are not safe but for our own protection we only sell to adults for adult use. I have been told that the government provides testing kits and many parents of autistic children test their household items. We encourage our buyers to reach out to the agencies in those industries and do their own testing. Or we advise playing it safe and purchase from the jewelry industry (more expensive) rather than the craft industry (cheapie/less expensive).

In conclusion, we are here to help you. I hope you found some value from my random list of helpful hints, tips and explanations. Please don't hold me liable for each word I say here and attack me with misspeak as I am trying to help people who want to be helped. (It is a sad day that I even have to say that last remark.) I truly wish you great success and happiness through crafting! It really is rewarding making your own unique piece and presenting it to someone who will smile and think of you when they see it each day.
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MUST READ!! IMPORTANT MESSAGE FOR ALL BUYERS TO READ:
~Crafting takes practice.
~There are many variables which can play a role in the outcome of every diy craft kit.
~We strongly encourage a first purchase to be a small sampling and will not be responsible for any loss due to testing your methodology.
~We promise to help you but can not guarantee that you will be successful because we do not know your particular variables. (printer, ink, paper, glue, finger dexterity, climate temperature, etc)
~We do promise to help you with more tips from our many years of experience.
~This list is only written due to a tiny handful of 'blamers', unfortunately.
~Bulk listings (500, 100, 1000, etc) are often sold by weight and can be off in qty by at much as 3-5% depending on the item. You could be over or under) Wholesalers often allow for a 9% variance in many industries.

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purplemountainbaby

purplemountainbaby

Owner of purplemountainbtq

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5 out of 5 stars 27,499 reviews

Buyers are raving!

This shop got multiple 5-star reviews in the past 7 days.

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Laurie Smith Apr 19, 2019

5 out of 5 stars
OMG...seriously THE best stuff I've ever ever used! Totally worth the purchase price!

Purchased item:

Lisa Shank Feb 1, 2019

5 out of 5 stars
Works very well and I think I'll be switching to this once my other supply gets low!

Purchased item:

LeAllyson Meyer Oct 10, 2018

5 out of 5 stars
I am so pleased with this dimensional glaze. I have used at least three other brands of glaze to make my photo glass cabochons, and this one is the best. I have always had problems with bubbles and silvery spots when making these with other glazes. I would sometimes make 3 or 4 of the same design just to make sure one was right. With this glaze, I have made over a dozen photo glass cabochons and had problems with one. That was because I pressed too hard and got some silver spots. Follow the instructions this seller gives in the item description and it works beautifully. Thank you for this product!
I am so pleased with this dimensional glaze. I have used at least three other brands of glaze to make my photo glass cabochons, and this one is the best. I have always had problems with bubbles and silvery spots when making these with other glazes. I would sometimes make 3 or 4 of the same design just to make sure one was right. With this glaze, I have made over a dozen photo glass cabochons and had problems with one. That was because I pressed too hard and got some silver spots. Follow the instructions this seller gives in the item description and it works beautifully. Thank...

Purchased item: