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**STOREWIDE SALE** 25% off entire store! Enjoy!! **STOREWIDE SALE** 25% off entire store! Enjoy!! **Difficulty level: Beginner

Need Help? Check out some of my handy how to YOUTUBE VIDEO tutorials!

How to make use a split ring mold:
How to make a resin bangle:
How to make a sphere/globe pendant:
How to use mix n' match molds:
How to use a two piece mold:

MY MOLDS ARE MADE TO ORDER! I make all the molds from scratch to ensure they are fresh and clean! Because I want to provide the best quality. Please allow 1 - 2 WEEKS for fabrication and 1- 3 WEEKS for shipping! Orders may therefor take more than ***ONE MONTH*** to arrive! TRACKING or insurance IS AN ADDITIONAL COST to the customer.


OPAQUE (coloured): This silicone is most economical and great quality! If you do not need to see fine details in your cast or like to be surprised when the cast comes out, this is perfect for you. This silicone is very flexible and long lasting (my preferred silicone).

CLEAR:This silicone is amazingly clear! Excellent for seeing right into your cast and viewing fine details within your mold. It is wonderfully flexible and durable! This silicone is a platinum base, so it is quite a bit more expensive (and it is also the only one that is FOOD SAFE).

These handmade silicone molds are exact replicas of the molds I use to create all of my jewelry pieces. They are FLEXIBLE and easy to manoeuvre and create a beautiful SHINY surface. All you have to do is mix your resin according to manufacturers instructions and pour! There is no need for a releasing agent, all types of resin pop out easily. These molds can be used to cast a variety of materials including wax, gypsum, low melt alloys/metals and urethane, epoxy or polyester resins (without using a release agent).The physical life/amount of casts from the mold depends on how you use it (materials cast, frequency, heat etc.). Casting abrasive materials such as concrete can quickly erode mold detail, while casting non-abrasive materials (wax/resin) will not affect mold detail. I make a lot of pieces with these molds and they always last for many, many casts. These Molds are made using a VACUUM CHAMBER to remove all air and ensure there are no bubbles or imperfections. Before storing, the mold should be cleaned with a mild soap/water solution and fully dried. Two part (or more) molds should be left assembled. Molds should be stored on a level surface in a cool, dry environment. I put my molds in a closed container to avoid dust and dirt from sticking to the surfaces. If you have any questions just convo me:) INSTRUCTIONS on mixing, pouring, setting, sanding and finishing resin are included with your order!


Resin Techniques for your Molds:
I recommend rinsing your molds before use! Let dry thoroughly!

Mixing – FOLLOW RESIN INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY! Epoxy Resins that are mixed at a 1:1 ratio by volume are the simplest to use successfully. Polyester resins are much more challenging to mix appropriately and can be frustrating for beginners and experts. Polyurethane resins generally require a small scale for accurate mixing ratios. The bigger the batch, the more heat from the chemical reaction is generated, and the faster the resin will cure. General rules for all resins include: - Don’t whip, but stir adequately and gently to avoid extra air bubbles

Pouring – You may wish to heat your molds slightly before pouring (5 minutes at 150 degrees in an old toaster oven will do the trick). This will lead to faster curing, yet may lead to problems if there is any moisture in the inclusions you place in your resin. When adding inclusions to your pieces, hold inclusion with tweezers, dip in resin and then placed in the mold to avoid trapped air bubbles. When LAYERED effects are desired wait until your first layer has reached a “gel textured” before adding your second layer to avoid mixing of colours or sinking of inclusions. Do not loosen layers from molds before adding new layers or uncured resin will seep under your piece and ruin the smoothness.

Curing – Avoiding BUBBLES! The fight against bubbles is best won with a craft heat gun or small butane torch. CAREFUL resin is flammable and can catch fire or burn your resin. Hold your heat source directly above your resin and pass over with a few short strokes. Do not hold the heat source too close or for extended periods, or the resin or inclusions may be damaged.

Trimming and Sanding –Make sure to wear a dust particle mask and eye protection! If molds have overflowed, large pieces of unwanted resin use a craft knife or small scissors to trim away the excess. Curved manicure scissors are perfect for trimming rounded pieces. Start with a rotary tool on the lowest speed (or by hand), with a coarse grit sandpaper (180 – 220 grit) to shape the piece. Then move progressively from 220 to 320 to 400 to 600 to 800 to 1000 to 1500 to 2000 grits. When using wet/dry sandpapers, sand underwater or be sure to rinse the sandpaper and the resin piece frequently. Follow with an scratch repair paste or jeweler’s rouge to achieve the finest sanding. Using a foam/cotton attachment on a rotary tool or a soft cloth, buff the piece on a low speed or by hand buffing.

Finishing – Polish with an automotive plastic polish. Apply by hand and either buff on a very low speed with a foam/cotton rotary attachment, or simply wipe off with a soft cloth/Shammy. If a high gloss is not achieved, re-sand or re-coat your piece. If you re-coat with resin you must ensure that your piece has a rough surface or the re-coating resin will not coat evenly, so re-sand with about a 400-600 grit to roughen the all surfaces. Mix a small batch of resin and submerge your piece. There are a few options for drying; 1. create a toothpick drying rack (get a sturdy piece of Styrofoam and push many toothpicks through the surface to an equal depth, resembling bed of nails). If your piece has a flat side that does not need a high gloss finish, simply cover the flat side with scotch tape (trimming around the edges), dip and rest on your handmade drying rack. 2. Hang your coated pieces on a pin or two pins stuck horizontally into a vertical surface. You have to continually check your piece to ensure there is no resin droplet hanging from the bottom. A toothpick must be used to remove these droplets until all excess resin has dripped away.

MOLD STORAGE and CARE: Store your molds at room temperature in a sealed container preventing dust and debris from sticking. Gently wash your molds with mild soap and water between uses, but ensure your molds are totally dry before re-use.

SPLIT MOLDS: To reduce resin leakage or warping wrap an elastic band around your split mold during casting and storage. (Note: Some pendant molds have a split in the bezel and may need drilling through the bezel if any leakage in the split occurs).
How to make use a split ring mold:

1. Put an elastic band around the base of the mold to insure your “finger hole” slit is placed firmly together.
2. In the top of your ring mold (ring face) place your resin and any inclusions/embellishments. Use a toothpick to move your inclusions around if necessary and unsure there is no air trapped under your inclusions and let set.
3. Tint the rest of your resin to a chosen ring base color. Put your 2-piece mold together and pour the tinted resin into the second part/ring base mold through the pouring hole. Place a small weight on the top to ensure mold is set firmly together, let set and de-mold when ready, trim sand and polish the nubbin from the pouring hole.
4. FOR TWO PIECE MOLDS WITH NO POURING HOLE: Tint the rest of your resin to a chosen ring base color (with pieces still separate). Do not completely fill your base to the top. You do not want the mold to be overfilled or it will be difficult to fit your two mold pieces together.
5. Let resin in both mold pieces set to a gel state.
6. Mix a small batch of clear resin or tinted resin and fill your ring base mold piece to the top.
7. Put your two-piece mold together and place a small weight on the top to ensure mold is set firmly together and avoid air bubbles.
8. Let your mold set according to manufacturers instructions and then de-mold.
9. Trim, sand, polish if necessary.
How to use a two piece mold:

Alternatives for MIX n’ MATCH ring mold:
1. Cast and de-mold the top of your ring
2. Pour resin into the ring base to the top and place the casted top on the base (ie. the casted top will make contact with your unset ring base resin and set together with the base before you de-mold)
3. OR Simply cast both the top and the base separately and when both pieces are de-molded, glue the pieces together with an epoxy glue found in a craft or hardware store (this glue is in two parts and is essentially a resin, so your pieces will have a very firm bond.)
How to use mix n' match molds:


Need more help? Check out some of my YOUTUBE VIDEO Tutorials...
How to make use a split ring mold:
How to make a resin bangle:
How to make a sphere/globe pendant:
How to use mix n' match molds:
How to use a two piece mold:


Storewide SALE Square Ring Split Mold

$19.50 USD
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  • Handmade Supply
  • Materials: silicone, rubber, pourable
  • Feedback: 2333 reviews
  • Ships worldwide from Kitchener, Canada