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Model Tank 1950's Chinese Red Army JSU 152mm Howitzer 1/35 scale kit military Korean War retro WWII Russian Armor Artillery

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Description

Korean War era Chinese JSU 152mm Howitzer 1/35 scale model kit WWII era Self Propelled Artillery used by Soviets in urban combat to destroy Nazi Fortifications highly detailed military miniature

Hobby supplies for Modeler who wants to build WWII era Tank that was used during Korean War

This is an open box kit

I have inspected this model kit and it is 100% complete

Was water damaged - got rained on - everything ok except for assembly instruction

Assembly instructions are included but not in great shape

Rest of kit - plastic parts & decals are in very good condition


Judging from the marking options provided, this kit is intended to represent an ISU-152 from 1945, but the kit lacks certain features appropriate for a vehicle from this period.

It also includes some features more appropriate for post-war vehicles, though this would be appropriate for one of the marking options, a Chinese PLA vehicle from the early 1950s.

The various time-dependent features are pointed out below, along with suggestions for correction where necessary.

I will also point out the features that can be altered in order to back-date your model to an earlier production example.

Step 1 of the kit instructions direct you to assemble the sprockets, road wheels/idlers (the road wheels and idlers were identical on the IS series) and return rollers. As noted in General Comments, the road wheels are slightly undersized and you can replace them if you wish. The kit return rollers represent the later pattern with three large lightening holes, which were introduced in June 1944 and are therefore appropriate for a 1945 production example. If you wish to backdate your model to represent a late 1943 or early 1944 vehicle, you must fill the lightening holes. John Stevens has come up with a way to do this which is described here.

Step 2 of the kit instructions deals with the lower hull. As with all the DML IS series kits, the lower hull is too low and requires raising as described in General Comments. The kit correctly includes the ammunition loading port (part B32) in the left-hand side of the lower hull.

The kit instructions give you the option to remove the mounting plates for the spare track links on the lower front hull. Track links were fitted commencing in May/June 1944, and retro-fitted to many earlier vehicles so check your references for the vehicle you are modeling. If you wish to model a late 1943 or early 1944 production example as built, remove the mounting plates.

Complete Step 3 of the kit instructions, adjusting the position of the lower rear hull plate (part A8) to meet the rear edge of the upper hull due to the modified lower hull tub.

The tracks included in the kit are the single link type with a guide tooth on every link, which were introduced in the spring of 1944 and became common in the summer. They are therefore appropriate for a 1945 vehicle, though most photographs of post-war vehicles show the later tracks with holes in the sides of the guide teeth. These are represented by Modelkasten's set SK-9. Check your references for the vehicle you are modeling. Note that the earlier split-link tracks persisted in service until the end of the war however, so check your references for the vehicle you are modeling. You can substitute split-link tracks from the Cyber-Hobby IS-1/IS-2 2-in-1 kit #9108, ISU-152 3-in-1 kit #9112 or after-market sets including Friulmodel set ATL-54, Masterclub 135023W and MiniArm sets B35002 or B35017.

The instructions tell you to cut out the locating points for the spare track links on the front edge of the glacis in Step 7. However, all the detail parts will then be in place on the upper hull and you risk damaging them during the cutting process. I recommend cutting out the locating points at the beginning of Step 4. You should do this if you are modeling a vehicle from the period after May/June 1944 since, as noted above, the track links were fitted to all new production vehicles after that time, and retro-fitted to most earlier vehicles.

The engine air intake screens and the radiator exhaust air grille on the engine deck are molded integrally with the hull top. The mesh on the air intake screens is quite well represented and the frames include the attachment bolts, but you may wish to cut them out and replace them with etched brass screens. Limitations in molding technology of the time mean that the kit does not properly represent the undercuts beneath the louvres on the radiator exhaust grille, but this is not easily noticeable on the finished model.

The towing shackle stowage bracket on the front left-hand fender is rather poorly represented and should be replaced with a suitable part from an after-market set.

The mounting bracket for the spare hydraulic fluid container (part D16) is mounted in the correct position for a vehicle from mid-1944 onward. However, if you are modeling a vehicle from late 1943 or early 1944 and are omitting the spare track links, you should relocate part D16 to the lower front hull between the towing hooks.

The forward pair of handrails on the forward superstructure side plates were only fitted to post-war vehicles, so check your references for the vehicle you are modeling.

The lifting eyes (parts B20) are molded with the rings standing perpendicular to the plates on which they are mounted. The rings were free to swivel in their mounts and typically laid flat against the plates. The kit parts can be modified by carefully cutting the rings from the eyes and re-attaching them in a more natural position. This applies not only to the superstructure and engine deck lifting eyes but to those on the rear hull (Step 6) as well.

The external fuel tanks (parts B15, B16, B17, B18 an B19) represent the 100-litre type common during the Great Patriotic War, rather than the larger-diameter 160-litre type commonly seen on post-war vehicles.

Step 5 deals with the gun and mantlet. The gun barrel is molded in two halves with the muzzle brake molded integrally with the barrel. The kit parts will respond well to careful assembly and cleaning up, but you may wish to replace them with an after-market barrel.

In Step 6, note that the panel lines around the maintenance and inspection hatches on the upper rear hull plate (partA1) are extremely faint and would benefit from rescribing. If you do not do this, you risk accidentally obscuring the lines when you paint your model. The kit also lacks the rain gutter above the maintenance hatch, which was fitted to all vehicles from the late spring of 1944 onward, and retro-fitted to most earlier vehicles. This can be easily added from thin styrene strip.

Strangely, the kit instructions direct you to drill out the holes for the gun travel lock in the upper rear hull plate (part A1) though the travel lock was only fitted to IS-2s and not to any of the ISU variants (how would the crew traverse the gun to the rear?) DO NOT open up these holes.

Note the comments above for the lifting rings, which should be carefully cut away from their mounting eyes and relocated in a more natural position.

The splash guard on the glacis (part A9) is overly thick but can be easily thinned down with a sharp hobby knife or sanding stick.

The kit lacks a 12.7mm DShK machine gun on the commander's cupola, which was present on most vehicles after the end of 1944.

You can take the weapon and mount from DML kit #6804 if you wish to add it.

The kit provides five marking options:

Chinese PLA Artillery Regiment, 1951
Guards Heavy Assault Gun Brigade, near Berlin 1945
Third Baltic Front 1945
Polish LWP 13th SP Artillery Regiment, Warsaw 1945
Soviet Heavy Assault Gun Brigade, Berlin 1945

The kit instructions describe 'heavy assault gun brigades' though the RKKA typically referred to such units as 'Heavy Self-Propelled Artillery Brigades'.

Email me with any questions

Your item will ship with in 2 weeks from date of purchase
I will email you tracking, ETA. If you need this item sooner, please email me through Etsy and I will do my best to ship it ASAP.


Thanks for visiting my shop
Korean War era Chinese JSU 152mm Howitzer 1/35 scale model kit WWII era Self Propelled Artillery used by Soviets in urban combat to destroy Nazi Fortifications highly detailed military miniature

Hobby supplies for Modeler who wants to build WWII era Tank that was used during Korean War

This is an open box kit

I have inspected this model kit and it is 100% complete

Was water damaged - got rained on - everything ok except for assembly instruction

Assembly instructions are included but not in great shape

Rest of kit - plastic parts & decals are in very good condition


Judging from the marking options provided, this kit is intended to represent an ISU-152 from 1945, but the kit lacks certain features appropriate for a vehicle from this period.

It also includes some features more appropriate for post-war vehicles, though this would be appropriate for one of the marking options, a Chinese PLA vehicle from the early 1950s.

The various time-dependent features are pointed out below, along with suggestions for correction where necessary.

I will also point out the features that can be altered in order to back-date your model to an earlier production example.

Step 1 of the kit instructions direct you to assemble the sprockets, road wheels/idlers (the road wheels and idlers were identical on the IS series) and return rollers. As noted in General Comments, the road wheels are slightly undersized and you can replace them if you wish. The kit return rollers represent the later pattern with three large lightening holes, which were introduced in June 1944 and are therefore appropriate for a 1945 production example. If you wish to backdate your model to represent a late 1943 or early 1944 vehicle, you must fill the lightening holes. John Stevens has come up with a way to do this which is described here.

Step 2 of the kit instructions deals with the lower hull. As with all the DML IS series kits, the lower hull is too low and requires raising as described in General Comments. The kit correctly includes the ammunition loading port (part B32) in the left-hand side of the lower hull.

The kit instructions give you the option to remove the mounting plates for the spare track links on the lower front hull. Track links were fitted commencing in May/June 1944, and retro-fitted to many earlier vehicles so check your references for the vehicle you are modeling. If you wish to model a late 1943 or early 1944 production example as built, remove the mounting plates.

Complete Step 3 of the kit instructions, adjusting the position of the lower rear hull plate (part A8) to meet the rear edge of the upper hull due to the modified lower hull tub.

The tracks included in the kit are the single link type with a guide tooth on every link, which were introduced in the spring of 1944 and became common in the summer. They are therefore appropriate for a 1945 vehicle, though most photographs of post-war vehicles show the later tracks with holes in the sides of the guide teeth. These are represented by Modelkasten's set SK-9. Check your references for the vehicle you are modeling. Note that the earlier split-link tracks persisted in service until the end of the war however, so check your references for the vehicle you are modeling. You can substitute split-link tracks from the Cyber-Hobby IS-1/IS-2 2-in-1 kit #9108, ISU-152 3-in-1 kit #9112 or after-market sets including Friulmodel set ATL-54, Masterclub 135023W and MiniArm sets B35002 or B35017.

The instructions tell you to cut out the locating points for the spare track links on the front edge of the glacis in Step 7. However, all the detail parts will then be in place on the upper hull and you risk damaging them during the cutting process. I recommend cutting out the locating points at the beginning of Step 4. You should do this if you are modeling a vehicle from the period after May/June 1944 since, as noted above, the track links were fitted to all new production vehicles after that time, and retro-fitted to most earlier vehicles.

The engine air intake screens and the radiator exhaust air grille on the engine deck are molded integrally with the hull top. The mesh on the air intake screens is quite well represented and the frames include the attachment bolts, but you may wish to cut them out and replace them with etched brass screens. Limitations in molding technology of the time mean that the kit does not properly represent the undercuts beneath the louvres on the radiator exhaust grille, but this is not easily noticeable on the finished model.

The towing shackle stowage bracket on the front left-hand fender is rather poorly represented and should be replaced with a suitable part from an after-market set.

The mounting bracket for the spare hydraulic fluid container (part D16) is mounted in the correct position for a vehicle from mid-1944 onward. However, if you are modeling a vehicle from late 1943 or early 1944 and are omitting the spare track links, you should relocate part D16 to the lower front hull between the towing hooks.

The forward pair of handrails on the forward superstructure side plates were only fitted to post-war vehicles, so check your references for the vehicle you are modeling.

The lifting eyes (parts B20) are molded with the rings standing perpendicular to the plates on which they are mounted. The rings were free to swivel in their mounts and typically laid flat against the plates. The kit parts can be modified by carefully cutting the rings from the eyes and re-attaching them in a more natural position. This applies not only to the superstructure and engine deck lifting eyes but to those on the rear hull (Step 6) as well.

The external fuel tanks (parts B15, B16, B17, B18 an B19) represent the 100-litre type common during the Great Patriotic War, rather than the larger-diameter 160-litre type commonly seen on post-war vehicles.

Step 5 deals with the gun and mantlet. The gun barrel is molded in two halves with the muzzle brake molded integrally with the barrel. The kit parts will respond well to careful assembly and cleaning up, but you may wish to replace them with an after-market barrel.

In Step 6, note that the panel lines around the maintenance and inspection hatches on the upper rear hull plate (partA1) are extremely faint and would benefit from rescribing. If you do not do this, you risk accidentally obscuring the lines when you paint your model. The kit also lacks the rain gutter above the maintenance hatch, which was fitted to all vehicles from the late spring of 1944 onward, and retro-fitted to most earlier vehicles. This can be easily added from thin styrene strip.

Strangely, the kit instructions direct you to drill out the holes for the gun travel lock in the upper rear hull plate (part A1) though the travel lock was only fitted to IS-2s and not to any of the ISU variants (how would the crew traverse the gun to the rear?) DO NOT open up these holes.

Note the comments above for the lifting rings, which should be carefully cut away from their mounting eyes and relocated in a more natural position.

The splash guard on the glacis (part A9) is overly thick but can be easily thinned down with a sharp hobby knife or sanding stick.

The kit lacks a 12.7mm DShK machine gun on the commander's cupola, which was present on most vehicles after the end of 1944.

You can take the weapon and mount from DML kit #6804 if you wish to add it.

The kit provides five marking options:

Chinese PLA Artillery Regiment, 1951
Guards Heavy Assault Gun Brigade, near Berlin 1945
Third Baltic Front 1945
Polish LWP 13th SP Artillery Regiment, Warsaw 1945
Soviet Heavy Assault Gun Brigade, Berlin 1945

The kit instructions describe 'heavy assault gun brigades' though the RKKA typically referred to such units as 'Heavy Self-Propelled Artillery Brigades'.

Email me with any questions

Your item will ship with in 2 weeks from date of purchase
I will email you tracking, ETA. If you need this item sooner, please email me through Etsy and I will do my best to ship it ASAP.


Thanks for visiting my shop

Reviews

2.5 out of 5 stars
(111)
Reviewed by Maggie Newlin
1 out of 5 stars
Feb 11, 2018
Attempted to contact and cancel order several times and never answered. Still took my $20. Eventually I had to contact PayPal, he didn’t answer them either but thankfully they were able to recover my money!
Model Airplane British Spitfire 1/48 scale kit Monogram RAF Fighter Plane Royal Air Force WWII British Aircraft Military Aviation Flying

Reviewed by Scott Goddard
1 out of 5 stars
Oct 12, 2017
Never sent it, won't answer my emails. I'm out $20 because this shop owner has no ethics.
HO scale Circa 1860 Baggage Car 68 Georgia Central Rail Road 1970's vintage train passenger trains Hobby railroad Tyco Mantua
Estate Sale Service responded

I sent this train along with extras. Unfortunately I lost the tracking. It was shipped!


Reviewed by Scott Goddard
1 out of 5 stars
Oct 12, 2017
Seller doesn't answer emails or phone. I eventually talked to someone who said she was his wife and she lied to me saying that my order had been sent. It never was, I never recieved it, and they don't answer any kind of attempt to contact them. At least they only stole $20 from me.
HO scale Circa 1860 Passenger Car 45 Georgia Central Rail Road 1970's vintage train passenger trains Hobby railroad Tyco Mantua
Estate Sale Service responded

I sent this train along with extras. Unfortunately I lost the tracking. It was shipped!


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Your item will ship with in 2 weeks from date of purchase
I will email you tracking, ETA. If you need this item sooner, please email me through ETSY and I will do my best to ship it sooner.

Once your item(s) are received please stop back in and leave a rating.
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Roland Dressler

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RETURN SHIPPING COSTS ARE THE RESPONSIBILITY OF THE BUYER

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Thank you for your business and enjoy your image!
RolandDressler
I accept all major credit cards, checks & money orders

NO returns will be accepted more than 7 DAYS after items are received by buyer.
RETURN SHIPPING COSTS ARE THE RESPONSIBILITY OF THE BUYER
I will give you a full refund once the item(s) are received by me + shipping.

The original purchase price and shipping ONLY. Return shipping of the item is not refundable.

RETURN SHIPPING COSTS ARE THE RESPONSIBILITY OF THE BUYER

If the item is not received with in the 7 days a STORE CREDIT will be offered. No refunds after 7 days.

Store credit is good for (1) year of the returned item date.

NO refund on paper products, and digital scans.

Many of the items I list are able to be copied.

NON REFUNDABLE ITEMS

1. Photographs
2. Postcards
3. Cookbooks
4. Framed Art
5. Reproductions Vintage Halloween
6. Anything listed under my "Vintage Paper Section"
7. Digital / Electronic Images
8. Costumes
NO REFUNDS ON PAPER GOODS / COSTUMES

Please email me prior if you have any questions.



************************NO RETURNS ON DIGITAL ITEMS**********************************

TERMS OF USE FOR DIGITAL IMAGES:

This digital images cannot be redistributed or reproduced for re-sale or for inclusion in your own DIGITAL artwork or even parts of the image.

This image is offered for your personal use and you can use them as often as you need to personally. The copyright and ownership of this image remains with me. Sale of this image does not transfer copyright in any form.
Crafting purposes in small numbers – nothing more than 50
These images can ONLY be used in a PRINTED FORMAT with no exceptions.

Thank you for your business and enjoy your image!
RolandDressler

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I accept all major credit cards, checks & money orders.
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Email me your complete address prior to purchase for an exact rate on larger items
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Your item will ship with in 2 weeks from date of purchase
I will email you tracking, ETA. If you need this item sooner, please email me through Etsy and I will do my best to ship it ASAP.

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I take my business rating seriously and will do EVERYTHING in my power to resolve any issues. I'm not perfect and sometimes things happen that are not in my control.

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Model Tank 1950's Chinese Red Army JSU 152mm Howitzer 1/35 scale kit military Korean War retro WWII Russian Armor Artillery

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