E- Pattern: Peacock Bodice, 1871-1873 (sizes 32-42)

This pattern is based on an extant gown in the collection of the New York State Museum. Size 32 is directly patterned from the original, and the rest are graded up. Please note that the waistline of this bodice is very high, and you may need to slash-and-spread the pattern pieces to lengthen it sufficiently. (The pattern is sized by bust measurement in inches. The waist is 10" smaller than the bust.)

The pointed waistline of this bodice is a little unusual for the Early Bustle period, but the belled sleeve and narrow V-neckline are common design elements. More unusual is the peplum, which resembles a peacock’s tail! The whole is trimmed with flat, bias-cut bands: a plain and clean style of ornamentation that is both accurate and appealing to modern sensibilities.

Suggested Fabric: The original bodice is made of a dark green silk taffeta lined with a brown cotton twill, and trimmed with an olive-gold silk satin (backed with very light crinoline). Silk, rayon, or polyester in light weights will do for the exterior and trim, and a medium-weight cotton for the lining. Using a satin weave for the trim adds a pleasing contrast, but isn’t strictly necessary.

Yardage: 2.5 yds of 45” material for outer fabric and lining. 1 yard of trim fabric and interfacing. (If the trim fabric has some body, interfacing is not needed.)

Notions: Synthetic whalebone, spring steel, cable ties, and even reed can be used for the boning. 1/8" cord for piping. Six pairs of hooks and eyes, and eleven buttons covered with the fabric of the trim.

Sewing Note: This pattern has been designed with 1/2" seam allowances. Most seams, unless otherwise noted, are intended to be sewn on a machine. Some of the finishing does require hand-sewing.