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Susan Olivio's Profile

About

Welcome to my shop!

http://www.solivio.etsy.com

I have two other shops
http://www.LuxeOrnaments.etsy.com (American made filigree)
http://www.MixedMetalStudio.etsy.com (my jewelry)

My name is Sue and I am a mother of two teenagers living in sunny Florida.

I strive hard to bring the best supplies at the best pricing. I am very picky about the quality of my supplies and try to describe each item as accurately as possible.

For the fine gemstones, I imagine that I am selecting a pair of beads to make jewelry for myself and make sure pairs are matched for size and color. I've found I need to put my glasses on lately to do this :) I really take my time making the selections. If there are any flaws,…

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  • Female
  • Born on August 13
  • Joined June 14, 2006

Favorite materials

amethyst, citrine, peridot, sterling silver, copper, brass

Shop

About

Welcome to my shop!

http://www.solivio.etsy.com

I have two other shops
http://www.LuxeOrnaments.etsy.com (American made filigree)
http://www.MixedMetalStudio.etsy.com (my jewelry)

My name is Sue and I am a mother of two teenagers living in sunny Florida.

I strive hard to bring the best supplies at the best pricing. I am very picky about the quality of my supplies and try to describe each item as accurately as possible.

For the fine gemstones, I imagine that I am selecting a pair of beads to make jewelry for myself and make sure pairs are matched for size and color. I've found I need to put my glasses on lately to do this :) I really take my time making the selections. If there are any flaws, I will describe them in each listing. Usually I sell perfect or nearly perfect beads first and cull the not so perfect beads for sale at half price after I've sold out of the perfect ones.

I have just begun expanding my offerings to include American made filigree which I consider of superior quality since they are made of pure raw brass that is lead free and nickel free.

I am also adding Czech and Asian glass and crystal beads and will offer these in small affordable parcels.

The oxidized wire that I carry is hand coiled by myself then oxidized with care. I use this wire myself in my own jewelry line and love the color and the way you can create depth in your jewelry by buffing out high points and leaving recessed areas darker. You can find some of my jewelry for sale here: http://www.mixedmetalstudio.etsy.com

I always send an email letting you know about shipping which is same day if possible, but no later than the next day unless it's Sunday in which case it will ship on Monday.

Please have a look around and if you have any questions, please send me a convo.

Sue :)






MORE INFORMATION ABOUT THE OXIDIZED WIRE:

There seems to be a lot of confusion about the oxidized wire that I sell. I think a lot of people may be confusing this with colored wire that has been sealed and is not a true patina. The color cannot be buffed out and is left as one consistent color.

I start with either pure copper or brass, and use a chemical treatment on the wire to speed up the oxidizing process. The wire has not been sealed so that you can buff it out and bring out highlights. There will be light areas and the recessed areas will be darker, giving your pieces an antiqued look.

A patina is soft powdery coating that forms on the outside of the wire. It can occur naturally after a long exposure to moisture or it can be hastened by applying chemicals.

Normally the jewelry is made from raw materials then antiqued and buffed out to bring out highlights. To buff, I use a very small piece of scotchbrite pad that can be purchased at the supermarket or paint section of the hardware store. We're sort of doing this in reverse. The wire is antiqued first and you'll be making your jewelry. Since the coating is very delicate, some of it will rub off on your fingers while you're working with the wire. This is natural but a bit messy. Just be sure to wash your hands after you've worked with the wire. For this reason, I antique the wire very darkly so you'll have some patina still left on the piece when you're finished. Sometimes you'll see that it ends up a little uneven in tone because of handling the wire. Buffing works wonders to smooth out the finish and even the tone.

When I make the earwires I sell, I normally do it from raw materials and then antique and polish. But I do frequently work with pre-oxidized wire when I need to get something shipped out quickly and don't have time to wait for pieces to dry. So this is a material that I work with myself and can say, the end product comes out the same whether you start with raw then antique or start with pre-oxidized wire then construct.


I hope this helps clear up some of the misconceptions about the oxidized wire that I carry.





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