Craft Supplies are for adult purchase only and for adult use only. Small parts are not appropriate for children. Craft supplies are not to be eaten. Craft supplies are not toys. Purchaser agrees to keep all items safely stored. If buyer can not agree to indemnify the seller of any harm or legal concerns then buyer should not purchase. Craft components are for ages 18 and older only and for responsible use. Purchaser agrees to indemnify seller when making the decision to purchase.

Introducing our newest craft category. Interchangeable Snap Jewelry you can make at home.

This listing is for Pendant Bases. (Picture 1)

Here is a link to our Bezel Snap Top Component. You can use your own photos and graphics to create interchangeable tops that snap right into these pendant bases. You can make unique and personalized gifts sure to delight!

https://www.etsy.com/listing/177120103/4-snap-top-16mm-bezel-trays-noosa?ref=shop_home_active_1

Here is a link for more information about our 2.4mm Ball Chains:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/114844971/24-inch-sterling-silver-over-brass?ref=shop_home_active_33

Here is a link to learn more about our vintage chains:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/155126925/10-vintage-chains-with-lobster-clasps?ref=shop_home_active_1

Here is a link to all of our Snap Jewelry Supplies:
https://www.etsy.com/shop/purplemountainbtq?section_id=14907217&ref=shopsection_leftnav_4

PLEASE NOTE -
Sometimes the backs have the detail like the earrings shown in the example here in this listing. (photo 5)
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Packing slips or copies of your order are sent to you digitally and can be found in your Etsy Account Purchases section.
Shopkeeper added information and helpful hints:

You can print paper copies from your Etsy Account at anytime. Should you need a paper copy enclosed with your order please add a note in the note box at checkout. Thank you.
(With new safety laws in California it is important that you read our section on safety, legal and allergies.) You can find it by scrolling down and in our FAQ. If you can't find it you can convo us and we can provide you with the details. Factories have made the changes nearly a decade ago due to CPSIA - we explain our stance on this in our policy/FAQ/must read sections.

We do recommend that you consult with a legal adviser as the laws are far too complex to tackle on your own. (in my opinion)

IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT BASE METALS USED FOR OUR CRAFT JEWELRY SUPPLIES:
We go into greater details below but it is important that you ask us in a convo if you have specific requirements. In general, the base metal is brass, metal alloy or iron. Colors are names - like copper, platinum, platina, stainless steel, silver, to name a few. These are usually not the base metal or a solid metal, thus the cost being quite low, with the exception of some light weight stainless steel items that are the base metal of stainless steel. Please ask in a convo.

****DIY Kit Supply Component Quantity Options are Now In The Listing Title****

For example, we often include inspirational photos of finished items or coordinating accessories like key rings, bracelets, necklaces, or charms. These items are only included if they are in the title or in the drop down menu of supply options. Please ask if you are not sure.

If we include a chain in a photo for inspiration, please realize we often offer 4 lengths and possibly 3 thicknesses. Therefore, we require that you actually put a listing for the chain style you would like into your cart.

It's sort of like buying a shirt on a clothing site. The model is probably wearing pants, shoes and jewelry but the listing title is for a shirt. You would have to shop further sections of the website to pick out these other 'inspirational' outfit add ons.

Here is a link to our shop home page. You will see the shop sections on the left side if you are on a desktop computer.

https://www.etsy.com/shop/purplemountainbtq?ref=seller-platform-mcnav


I wanted to take a moment to add some general tips, hints, explanations and comments to all of my listings. After many years on Etsy, we have lived and breathed helping others learn how to make glass photo craft jewelry, I recently felt compelled to make a list of random tips and add it to all of my listings. Please note that we do not make claims of perfection and absolutes as crafting has far too many variables but we are offering our opinions from heartfelt personal experience. Your opinions and experiences may differ from ours. We learn from you. Some points here may not be relevant to the particular listing it is underneath but if you are browsing our shop then maybe you will find something that is helpful.

~Glass Craft Photo Jewelry Making Helpful Tips:


****DIY Kit Supply Component Quantity Options are Now In The Listing Title****

The crafting process has many methods. We offer supply option in the dropdown menu. In many listing we even go so far as to offer Just Seals or Just Chains or Just Glass because all too often someone sees a kit but decides they want extra supplies for something else they are doing and don't really want to search the shop.

Kits almost always offer a tray/bezel/base as the bezel tray is the main component. If an option for Just Seals, for example, is selected then the bezel tray will not be included as it was not paid for. Also, there is often a second drop down where a color can be selected. If a supply with a color is not selected in the first drop down then we will disregard that color selection as it is not pertinent. (Glass and Seals are not supplies that have color finishes). The only items that will be sent are the items that are paid for. The bezel/tray base item is ALWAYS the main component of a kit and if that supply is not selected from the drop down menu that is the buyer's choice and the bezel will not be included in the order. If you have questions please send a convo for more clarification.


Sometime newbies may need clarification on terms - the terms - bezel, tray, link, pendant, cup style, recessed style - generally refer to a craft component that you could fill/decorate with a cabochon such as a corresponding size glass piece. Glass size (25mm) fits a bezel (25mm), for example. Some people call all glass 'domes' even when they are flat - so please keep that in mind :) Please ask if you are wondering.

• In regards to glass, domed means the top is rounded and the bottom is flat whereas flat means the top and bottom are both flat.

• In general, the material of a metal craft component for jewelry in our shop) is brass, metal alloy or iron. Please be sure to ask if you need to know specific details because mfg changes sometimes due to environmental reasons, safety reasons and other reasons such as mfg processes. For example, when lead was removed, certain alloys were used to strengthen the metals.


• Brass is a softer metal which is punched into a shape to create the component. The tray size can vary a tiny bit on the top versus the bottom just due to the mfg process. Bails are often soldered on and are not unbreakable when adjusted through bending or straightening. Do not bend or ‘straighten’ soldered on bezels, loops or bails as this weakens the bond. If you need to know if a specific item is brass please ask in a convo. We have noticed that sometimes the listing tags are auto populated with platform upgrades over the years. We want you to be sure you have accurate information specific to the listing you are considering.

• Metal alloy is melted to a molten liquid that is poured into a mold to create the component. Bails and loops are part of the mold and generally sturdy.

• Iron is most often used for chains for necklaces and bracelets. A trick to know if something is iron is by seeing if a magnet will attract to it. Silver chains can be brass or iron. Both tend to tarnish quite quickly. Many people use antique silver chains with shiny silver alloy pendants.

• Brass and metal alloy will not attract a magnet. Iron will attract a magnet.

• The color descriptions (with the exception of silver and gold) are generally the tone of the piece, not the material. For example, copper is a color not a material. If you wonder please ask us.

• The color ‘shiny silver’ or ‘silver’ is silver plated. Silver plated is a very thin layer (platings are a color, not a precious metal. Manufactures say the plating is real silver or real gold but since we have no certification we just say the color is a color descriptor but they could have a small amount of the precious metal in the plating since silver, for example tarnishes. I hope this makes sense. Logically, flecks of gold are worth more than the cost of the setting so how does that make sense. Let's just agree a color is a color.) of actual silver over a base metal. I am often asked if it is 'sterling silver', which is an interesting question because sterling silver is only approx 92% pure silver where as the thin layer of plating is pure silver. One time, a factory explained that the plating was 'sterling silver'. I really don't know if anyone would really know for sure. I feel like people want it to be 'sterling silver', as if that is supposedly better than pure silver. All we can really say is that the plating is silver - 92%-100% pure silver. Regardless, it is a thin layer of silver over a base metal. The base metal is commonly brass, metal alloy or iron. We discuss this at great length in many areas of our shop. Gold has a very thin layer of gold over a base metal.

• Silver is the finish which requires care and upkeep. If the base metal is metal alloy the piece will not tarnish very quickly. Some alloy pieces can take a year or even several years to show tarnish, but it depends on other factors and can vary, of course. I don't think I have ever seen any of my alloy supplies tarnish in all of my years working with them. Brass, on the other hand, will tarnish much more quickly – as in a week or a few weeks depending on environmental conditions. Iron seems to tarnish the most rapidly, in my experience.

• Antique finishes can vary. Sometimes they appear more 'dirty' and 'vintage' and other times they are shiny and smooth with a vintage look. Chains in antique bronze and antique copper can sometimes feel like they have a residue on them. It seems sort of sticky. This is really out of our control. I have been told to hang them as they were not fully dried. One gal said she washed them. with a diluted solution of white vinegar and Dawn detergent. The cheapie craft supply business always keeps us hoppin' with ways to correct hastily made supplies. We love our customers because they understand these issues and appreciate us enough to work with us and not against us. Thank you! We love you!



• There are ways to maintain the brilliance of silver plated items but it requires some due diligence. Understanding the reason for tarnish is helpful. Tarnish is caused by exposure to air/oxygen and oils from your skin, among other external factors. This starts the oxidation process. It is important that the piece is wiped off with a jeweler’s cloth each night and stored in the velvet crevices of a jewelry box, or between cotton in a box, or in a felt pouch, for example. These same principles apply to storing your jewelry supplies. Wrapping them in tissue paper and/or tightly in poly bags and stored in plastic bins is a great start.

• Silver plated brass (a large percentage of our items are brass) that tarnishes is sometimes showing the brass from underneath, which is why it looks golden in tone. Also, silver plating is a thin thin layer of sterling silver, which is made up of a mix of pure silver and other metals such as copper (~7%), aluminum, zinc, for example.) If you wait until the piece is at this stage and you use silver polish to try to shine the item you risk actually rubbing that thin silver coating right off the base metal. This explains why regular maintenance is important. Gentle maintenance. This same principle could apply to silver plated iron and other base metals, as well.

• There really is no perfect substitute for the beautiful shiny silver but tones we like, which can be considered, are platinum, which looks like a shimmery thumb tack, or stainless steel, which is a bit darker and will not tarnish. Platinum, which is also called platina, is tarnish resistant but still has some silver in the plating and is prone to tarnish but at a slower rate than shiny silver plated. Rhodium is becoming more readily available as the cost seems to be coming down on that finish. Rhodium has not been shown to tarnish.

We are adding stainless steel options. Craft jewelry components are basic stainless steel. Stainless steel contains at least 10% chromium and, depending on the grade of the stainless steel, it may include smaller percentages of nickel, molybdenum, titanium, niobium and other metals. Although stainless steel jewelry doesn't tarnish, it can scratch. Stainless steel jewelry is pretty easy to clean. I like Sheila Shine if a shiny glossy finish is sought after.

We are often asked about higher quality stainless steel. For example: What's the difference between 304 and 316 stainless steel? The simple answer is 304 contains 18% chromium and 8% nickel while 316 contains 16% chromium, 10% nickel and 2% molybdenum. The molybdenum is added to help resist corrosion to chlorides (like sea water and de-icing salts). Our craft items are not these versions unless specifically stated in the listing. The price points don't generally fit our target market and it is unrealistic to expect .50 items to be fine jewelry grade, but sometimes we get lucky and find a earring back or a post in 304.

• We are often asked how to adhere a graphic to a piece of glass. There are many ways but the 2 most common ways are by using glues or glazes or by using an acid free - that said, I always always recommend that you sample a new-to-you supply to be sure it agrees with you. There can be smells or textures that may not agree with one person and be totally fine for another. Sensitivities are always unpredictable archival quality 2 sided dry adhesive seal that is clear and sticky on both sides. Adhesive Seals do not waterproof your image. The quality of the seal is very important.


o Glaze and glues are used with matte card stock paper because the paper will allow a bit of absorption to help facilitate the adhesion of the image to the smooth glass. You will need to watch for bubbles forming and check to be sure the glass does not slide off the image.
o Dry Adhesive Seals are used with glossy paper because the seal requires a perfectly smooth surface. We do not advise using luster, matte, quick dry or commercially printed images because they are, most often, not perfectly smooth. Seals are sensitive to texture, dust or oils. (oils from your fingers, finger prints). Due to the many variables, seals can take practice but really are quite simple. I have great results using glossy laser paper or glossy photo paper. It is important to note how ink jets put ink down. Sometimes black ink will go onto paper thicker which causes a 'texture'. I have solved this by using a thinner paper such as Hammermill Glossy Laser Paper. A high quality bright white copy paper has also been shown to work well. Always check to be sure your printer settings match your paper. Many printers work best using the mfrs brand of paper - ie, Epson paper with Epson printer.

o Regardless of which method you choose, experimentation with your specific variables will probably be worth the effort. I have seen so many examples of gals who have struggled for a week or two and now years later have thriving Etsy shops and we smile when we think back to those first few days as we worked to find the perfect methodology.

• When using glazes there are some variables to consider. Will the glaze cause the ink to run? Will the glaze cause some trays to turn color (green, usually). Will the glaze adhere well enough? From my experience, glossy Mod Podge is my choice because, in my experience, the ink will not run and the end result is fantastic. Mod Podge is a sealant which is why the ink will not be compromised. Your image will pop. My paper of choice is Epson Presentation Paper, which is a matte card stock. It is always best to experiment and test one piece of glass and let it set for a few days to fully cure before you make a mass production and adhere it into your bezel.

• Another question we are often asked is how to adhere the finished piece of glass into the bezel? The safest and fastest way is with our dry adhesive seals. They are made in the USA by a company with over 40 years in the craft adhesive industry. There is no wait time, it is non toxic, and the adhesive is so permanent you had better not misalign your glass because you may not be able to pry it back out. You can use a jeweler’s glue like E6000. Be aware that E6000 can eat through the back of some papers and compromise your image. You may need to seal the back of the paper first. Epson brand paper is the only paper that I know of that works with E6000 and does not need to be sealed but I still advise testing your 1st piece.

• The glass is craft glass, not optical glass. If you hold it to the light before you attach your graphic to it you may see silica, which is an ingredient in the glass. This is not visible to the naked eye once you get your image adhered. Over the years, the glass has gotten much better but it still does have silica. My personal opinion is that flat glass is very, very clear but it still has silica. Domed glass is the most popular and fits the bezels, pretty much, seamlessly at the edges. If you need optic glass then our glass would not be right for you.

• We sell craft components. Not every piece is perfect but they are pretty darn good. Finishes can vary by batch, Vintage can sometimes be lighter, darker, shinier or "dirty". Black can sometimes be shiny or matte and can even "chip", which is an intrinsic characteristic of that color and the process. Black is the only color we have seen do this and we are very limited on the black items we offer. Gun metal is almost always glossy but very rarely it can look vintage. Please ask us to check our inventory for a specific characteristic you may prefer. Craft supplies can have slight imperfections which are intrinsic characteristics. If it important to consider some craft pieces are 1/10th the cost of a similar art or jewelry comparison. If you need perfection please don't shop craft- jewelry components. In our industry the bezel is a base for a much more important focal element. We work very hard to find the best within the category. We even double silver plate most of our silver items so the silver is super shiny. We also have much of our glass packaged specially from the factory to minimize scuffs and damages. In bulk, the glass is packaged in trays so each piece has its own slot. Many customers buy the glass in 500+ piece bulk boxes now and love these new trays. Our smaller packs come in 2 piece poly bags or 20 pieces in a poly bag for smaller sized glass pieces or even 100 is the 12mm. We often pick the pieces for your order from the tray packs and find the glass to be very, very good quality, based on the available glass offered in the craft industry. We also use this glass in our own crafting business. Our 12mm comes 100 in a pack,

• If you are looking for jewelry components or art supplies we may not be the shop for you as we are a craft supply shop. Please ask if you have questions or pick a sampler listing as a low risk test.

I want to talk a bit about Free Shipping and Shipping Included: We all know shipping is not really free. It is absorbed somehow into the listing or the total order. We do that with some listings and some promotions. This is not too complicated for us since we have an exchange policy. If someone was to order an item or an order with free shipping then it would have a shipping cost that we paid which would be included in the listing cost and not itemized as 'shipping.' We take this cost into consideration when calculating our exchange values on an order by order basis.


• I wanted to discuss the topic allergies, safety and legal. First, nickel (the ingredient often responsible for allergic reactions), lead and cadmium may be an ingredient in metal. Back about 10 years ago laws were enacted for products worldwide.

We can not say we comply with the California Laws. We know our metal components in our magnet-button craft category are made in the USA and do NOT comply with California Prop 65.
Sellers are required to prove safety for products sold to anyone under 15. We sell to adults online. Children do not shop and pay online, to my knowledge. The way to provide a certificate of safety is by contracting a lab to melt down each product from each batch and analyze the ingredients to see if they fall within the legal limits. It is very expensive and would need to be done continually for every item ordered and reordered costing more money per year than most people specializing in artisan products have estimated sales. If you think about that, it is pretty much an impossible task. Even if we did tests, how could we possibly know if each little piece in each bag is from the same batch made in China? And remember, the item tested is melted/ruined and unsaleable. How can I stamp everything as 'safe' and guarantee that everything is safe when the safe pieces were ruined/melted? If you have the answer I would love to hear it. The fines of $100,000 per offense and jail are more than I would think anyone would want to risk. I have not reviewed whether the laws were amended since 2009 when many of us children's mfrs consulted lawyers and made a mass exodus from the baby and children's industry. Also, I am not a lawyer and make no claims to what I believe to be true from a legal sense. That being said, I know I am allergic to nickel. I know I used to hear from customers asking about their allergic reactions. I have not heard of allergic reactions in many years... maybe 7 years now. When the lead laws were first passed, lead could be tested using an XRF machine. We sent in many of our components for testing. The majority of our components tested within the limits and that was back in 2010, before the factories made many of their adjustments. The factories we buy from sell worldwide, of course. They produce products that should be legal worldwide. We do not have any reason to believe the products are not safe but for our own protection we only sell to adults for adult use. I have been told that the government provides testing kits and many parents of autistic children test their household items. We encourage our buyers to reach out to the agencies in those industries and do their own testing. Or we advise playing it safe and purchase from the jewelry industry (more expensive) rather than the craft industry (cheapie/less expensive).

In conclusion, we are here to help you. I hope you found some value from my random list of helpful hints, tips and explanations. Please don't hold me liable for each word I say here and attack me with misspeak as I am trying to help people who want to be helped. (It is a sad day that I even have to say that last remark.) I truly wish you great success and happiness through crafting! It really is rewarding making your own unique piece and presenting it to someone who will smile and think of you when they see it each day.
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MUST READ!! IMPORTANT MESSAGE FOR ALL BUYERS TO READ:
~Crafting takes practice.
~There are many variables which can play a role in the outcome of every diy craft kit.
~We strongly encourage a first purchase to be a small sampling and will not be responsible for any loss due to testing your methodology.
~We promise to help you but can not guarantee that you will be successful because we do not know your particular variables. (printer, ink, paper, glue, finger dexterity, climate temperature, etc)
~We do promise to help you with more tips from our many years of experience.
~This list is only written due to a tiny handful of 'blamers', unfortunately.
~Bulk listings (500, 100, 1000, etc) are often sold by weight and can be off in qty by at much as 3-5% depending on the item. You could be over or under) Wholesalers often allow for a 9% variance in many industries.LEGAL NOTICE:
Our items are intended for adult purchases and to be used by adults only. Small pieces can be a choking hazard to young children. We sell only to adults over 18 years of age. By purchasing you agree to keep items away from children and indemnify seller of any and all liability. Buyer agrees to release Seller from any liability when making the decision to purchase. By making the decision to purchase our items you agree to be responsible for all laws in your state and country applicable to the safety and handling of the products and all other legal issues. Please ask questions if specific issues are not stated in my listing. We recommend that you request a sample to test. Any resulting litigation is decided in Manatee County Florida.
PLEASE NOTE - DESCRIPTORS IN OUR SHOP ARE USED TO DESCRIBE STYLES, COLORS AND OTHER CHARACTERISTICS. WE DON'T SELL ANY ITEMS THAT ARE REAL COPPER, FOR EXAMPLE. ALSO, OUR SHOP SELLS NOTHING VINTAGE - AS IN OFFICIALLY VINTAGE. THE WORD "VINTAGE" IS A DESCRIPTOR OF A STYLE WHICH DENOTES OLD STYLE OR CLASSIC STYLE. IF YOU WONDER PLEASE CONVO.
Products are for adult purchase, to make adult only products and adult use only. Purchaser indemnifies seller from injury and all other issues when making the decision to purchase. Buyer is responsible for the safety and care of the product purchased. Legal disputes are decided in Manatee County Florida jurisdiction.

The country of origin for our supplies made of metal or glass is China. It is our understanding that our button components are made here in America. Same with our adhesive seals. I don't have it in writing for legal purposes. They do say "proudly made in USA" and "USA made. I want to be transparent on where we source our supplies. We try to buy American but many items just are not made here period. China makes beautiful craft pieces and I am thankful to offer them and also offer American made items to make crafting easier.