DaveTheCableGuy

Dave's Cables

Ypsilanti, Michigan · 30 Sales

DaveTheCableGuy

Dave's Cables

Ypsilanti, Michigan 30 Sales On Etsy since 2011

0 out of 5 stars
(12)

Shop owner

Dave

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Announcement   Want a handmade, scientifically superior, all-American cable without all the purple prose, pseudo-science and absurd prices? I'm the cable guy to make you one!

My name's Dave, and I'm an audiophile. I'm also a musician and a sound engineer, and I've worked in some of the biggest and best equipped professional studios in the world in the course of the last decade. In that time, I've found there's a lot of hype behind a lot of supposedly high fidelity gear out there, but none more so than cable. There's a ton of misinformation and snake-oil out out there when in comes to cable (and a lot of wage-slave labor making said cable), but very little in the way of good, hard electrical data, superior parts and quality American workmanship. Which is why I decided to just start building my own!

Unlike most big-box store ripoffs, the cables I make are all based around meaningful scientific measurements. Even though most name-brand cable peddlers won't tell you this, there are some simple measurements you can take that will tell you most everything you need to know about how a given cable performs. The details are complex, but there are four basic rules you can follow to ensure you buy on the basis of real fact, and don't get ripped off.

1. For all Cables: Keep the length as short as possible; try to keep all your cables at 10 feet or shorter, but if you have to make tradeoffs between different types of cables keep your speaker cables the shortest, then your signal cables, then your power cables.

2. For Signal Cables (RCA, Guitar/Instrument, XLR/Microphone, TRS, etc): Look for low capacitance first (capacitance is measured in pF/ft or picofarads per foot, and the lower the better), good shielding second (ideally a copper braid shield, as foil shields really only help for digital frequencies, with at least 90% coverage), and durable construction third (no higher than 22 AWG for solid-core conductors or 26 AWG for stranded - you'll run into breakage issues over time otherwise in my experience).

3. For Speaker Cables: This is really the only complex one. First off, ignore the gauge wars - low resistance is very important, but there is a point of diminishing returns, and that point is when resistance is under 5% of rated impedance for your circuit. What that means roughly in English is that even if you want to be overkill about it for peace-of-mind's sake, 14 AWG is more than enough for 10 feet or fewer, 12 AWG is plenty for 10-20 feet, and 10 AWG is plenty for 20-30 feet. You will hear no benefit whatsoever from besting those guidelines. From there you need to balance low inductance with relatively low capacitance (as the two are inversely correlated). An ideal balance is 65-70 pF/ft capacitance and .02-.05 uH/ft inductance, which is the balance I've struck with my Synaptic design. At under 10 feet, that design is arguably the most ideal speaker cable on planet earth.

4. For Power Cables: Power cables are easily the most perniciously beset by lies and misinformation in the audiophile cable world. Since your power cable doesn't carry audible frequency information, there are only two concerns. The first is to make sure that the resistance is low enough to handle as much potential current as a power outlet can produce, and 14 AWG is the magic number for that. A secondary consideration is to shield the cable and shunt the shield to ground to help reduce the interference that the power cable emits into the rest of the room (RF or EMI entering your power cable is a non-concern, leaving your power cable is a concern).

There's a lot of greed and misinformation in the audiophile cable world today (and the charlatans that seem to run the industry would have it no other way), but you won't find any of that here. Plainly and simply my cables will outperform everything from the 'audiophile' snake-oil cables you'll see being hocked for thousands of dollars to the big-box corporate 'made by wage-slaves' cables. Unlike the former that rely on hype and brand names, Dave's Cables are all lovingly hand-made, and come with the hard electrical data to prove they simply perform better, and will make your rig or music system sound better.

All my cables are listed at the most common length for the application, but I can make you any length, with any cable type, and nearly any combination of connectors - just send me a message, and I'll whip something up for you!

Peace all!
-Dave

Announcement

Want a handmade, scientifically superior, all-American cable without all the purple prose, pseudo-science and absurd prices? I'm the cable guy to make you one!

My name's Dave, and I'm an audiophile. I'm also a musician and a sound engineer, and I've worked in some of the biggest and best equipped professional studios in the world in the course of the last decade. In that time, I've found there's a lot of hype behind a lot of supposedly high fidelity gear out there, but none more so than cable. There's a ton of misinformation and snake-oil out out there when in comes to cable (and a lot of wage-slave labor making said cable), but very little in the way of good, hard electrical data, superior parts and quality American workmanship. Which is why I decided to just start building my own!

Unlike most big-box store ripoffs, the cables I make are all based around meaningful scientific measurements. Even though most name-brand cable peddlers won't tell you this, there are some simple measurements you can take that will tell you most everything you need to know about how a given cable performs. The details are complex, but there are four basic rules you can follow to ensure you buy on the basis of real fact, and don't get ripped off.

1. For all Cables: Keep the length as short as possible; try to keep all your cables at 10 feet or shorter, but if you have to make tradeoffs between different types of cables keep your speaker cables the shortest, then your signal cables, then your power cables.

2. For Signal Cables (RCA, Guitar/Instrument, XLR/Microphone, TRS, etc): Look for low capacitance first (capacitance is measured in pF/ft or picofarads per foot, and the lower the better), good shielding second (ideally a copper braid shield, as foil shields really only help for digital frequencies, with at least 90% coverage), and durable construction third (no higher than 22 AWG for solid-core conductors or 26 AWG for stranded - you'll run into breakage issues over time otherwise in my experience).

3. For Speaker Cables: This is really the only complex one. First off, ignore the gauge wars - low resistance is very important, but there is a point of diminishing returns, and that point is when resistance is under 5% of rated impedance for your circuit. What that means roughly in English is that even if you want to be overkill about it for peace-of-mind's sake, 14 AWG is more than enough for 10 feet or fewer, 12 AWG is plenty for 10-20 feet, and 10 AWG is plenty for 20-30 feet. You will hear no benefit whatsoever from besting those guidelines. From there you need to balance low inductance with relatively low capacitance (as the two are inversely correlated). An ideal balance is 65-70 pF/ft capacitance and .02-.05 uH/ft inductance, which is the balance I've struck with my Synaptic design. At under 10 feet, that design is arguably the most ideal speaker cable on planet earth.

4. For Power Cables: Power cables are easily the most perniciously beset by lies and misinformation in the audiophile cable world. Since your power cable doesn't carry audible frequency information, there are only two concerns. The first is to make sure that the resistance is low enough to handle as much potential current as a power outlet can produce, and 14 AWG is the magic number for that. A secondary consideration is to shield the cable and shunt the shield to ground to help reduce the interference that the power cable emits into the rest of the room (RF or EMI entering your power cable is a non-concern, leaving your power cable is a concern).

There's a lot of greed and misinformation in the audiophile cable world today (and the charlatans that seem to run the industry would have it no other way), but you won't find any of that here. Plainly and simply my cables will outperform everything from the 'audiophile' snake-oil cables you'll see being hocked for thousands of dollars to the big-box corporate 'made by wage-slaves' cables. Unlike the former that rely on hype and brand names, Dave's Cables are all lovingly hand-made, and come with the hard electrical data to prove they simply perform better, and will make your rig or music system sound better.

All my cables are listed at the most common length for the application, but I can make you any length, with any cable type, and nearly any combination of connectors - just send me a message, and I'll whip something up for you!

Peace all!
-Dave

Dave

Contact shop owner

Dave

Reviews

No reviews in the last year
stephen pazereckas

stephen pazereckas on Dec 23, 2014

5 out of 5 stars

Great Seller the Best Cables and Seller A+++++ these are so good it will blow your mind. I am hearing things in my music I never heard before thanks to these Cables A++++. Will buy from again the best A++++

steambread

steambread on Apr 15, 2014

5 out of 5 stars

It takes it's time to get here but it's better than anything I have ever seen.

Stephen Froeber

Stephen Froeber on Feb 18, 2014

5 out of 5 stars

Excellent quality cables! Dave was able to do a custom order for me, and they are really well made with fast shipping.

View all 12 reviews

Shop policies

Last updated on October 31, 2012
Welcome to Dave's Cables! I make handmade, audiophile grade cables, with the hard electrical data to prove they're better than the name-brands. You won't find flowery purple prose, dubious pseudo-science, or snake-oil here, just good hard science, fair pricing and all American workmanship. I use top quality raw wire and connectors (as many of them American made as I can find), and I'll tell you exactly the raw parts that are in every cable I list. With all the marketing and misinformation that goes into the cable business, I know it can be hard to believe that cables this good can cost this little, but I guarantee you, my cables are better made and better performing than any of their corporate counterparts. Go ahead and try one - if for whatever reason you disagree, just send it back within 30 days and I'll give you your money back.

Peace All,
-Dave

Accepted payment methods

  • Pay with Visa
  • Pay with Master Card
  • Pay with American Express
  • Pay with Discover
  • Pay with PayPal
Payment
I accept Paypal exclusively, and require payment within 24 hours.
Shipping
I usually ship via USPS priority flat rate, but I can ship via Fedex or UPS as well for whatever my cost is. Anything stock that I already have built I usually ship within 24 hours, custom stuff can take a little longer.
Refunds and Exchanges
You can return any cable within 30 days for exchange or full refund if they don't work for you for whatever reason. My cables are extremely well built, and won't break easily, but if they are ever in need of repairs, just send them in and I'll fix them for free, minus the cost of shipping them back to you. I'm a chill dude that way.
Additional policies and FAQs
In addition to anything you see posted, odds are if there's an audio cable you want built, I can probably build it for you if I can source the parts. Just drop me a line if you want a custom length, custom terminations, anything custom.