real, vintage clothes that FIT real, modern bodies
rolypolyvintage's Shop Policies
Greetings from RolyPoly Vintage, bringing you fabulous, figure-flattering vintage garments and accessories from the lovely land of Olympia, Washington.
Being a proud fattie myself (and a bit sassy), I specialize in 1930's-1970's plus-sized dresses, but I also collect+sell other wear-ables (separates, coats, purses, shoes, men's wear).
Paypal is preferred for all payments.
Want a lay-away or payment plan? Sure, just contact me before making your purchase and we can negotiate a plan that will make us both happy (send an etsy convo. = click "contact the seller" or "ask seller a question" links & let me know what item you'd like to place "on hold"). Typically, I'll ask for 50% down & final payout within 4 weeks, but we can negotiate different #s.
Orders shipping to a Washington state address are charged sales tax.
Listed shipping costs reflect the lowest-priced option given the weight of the garment + minimal packaging = usually USPS 1st class or parcel select (USA) or 1st class international package (non-USA).
All orders over $10 are shipping with insurance for the full value, so we can both rest easy & be covered.
I ship out within 2 business days of full payment (usually that same day or the next morning), so packages tend to arrive with "Priority speed" (but at a lower cost to you & me).
If you'd like a faster shipping method—Priority or Express—you can upgrade your shipping speed (for additional cost) at Checkout.
*** International customers ***
please note that your purchase payment DOES NOT cover any customs fees, VAT, or other import duties that may be assessed by your national authorities. Here's a link to a Duty Calculator that can help you estimate the import fees for your location:
I also can NOT mark your package as a "gift" or change the value on the customs form. I know, honesty is painful, but it's, well, honest...
Refunds and Exchanges
All sales are final.
The vintage items in this shop are sold as-is &, since they're vintage, most/all have been used/worn/loved. Please fully read the item description, as I am scrupulous in my examination of each item and thoroughly describe item measurements and any imperfections (stains, discoloration, weak seams, frays, holes, repairs, alterations, etc.). If you would like further photos or description of any flaws, simply contact me & I'd be happy to oblige.
Lost or damaged packages are covered by shipping insurance (see "Shipping Policy" above).
Additional Policies and FAQs
I've photographed all garments on my plus-size dress dummy (whose max. measurements are 48-38-50).
Just a reminder: vintage clothing sizing is NOT the same as modern sizing. I have translated garment measurements to modern sizes, but these are variable, so I *highly encourage* shoppers to take your own measurements and compare these to the garment measurements, being sure to leave *at least* 2 inches of extra room in flexing/constricting areas like the waistline, bust, hips, and armholes. Or, if you prefer a looser fit, more like today's clothing, add 3" to 4" of wearing ease in waist, 5" to 6" through bust & hips. Another option is to compare these to the measurements of a similar garment you already own (& like the fit of).
BASIC MEASUREMENTS to consider include your:
• Bust = fullest point, taken while wearing a supportive/"good" bra. (if you're measuring a dress you own, this bust point should be about 1" above the top of any waist-to-bust dart, or in line with the point of a sideseam-to-bust dart)
• Waist = about 1" above your navel on many bodies, or at the slimmest part of your torso (at waist seam on garments, usually 6" to 8' down from bust)
• Hips = fullest point below waist (1/2" below any perpendicular darts on a dress/skirt, usually 7-8" below waist)
But, I also recommend that you measure your:
• distance from neckline to waistline = measure at center back, down from the spine "bulge" where your neck-meets-back; If you're "short-waisted" or find that you favor higher- or empire-waisted styles, this will help you gauge how a dress or top will fit your curves. Remember, though, that dress necklines tend to be lower than the nape (so use neckline-to-waistline garment lengths to determine your fit).
• distance from your waistline to your knees = best measured either at your center back or at your side, over your curves; This will help you tell skirt length, especially if you're under 5'3" or over 5'8" tall.
• upper arm circumference (if you tend to find sleeves too tight)
Want more measurement help? Convo. me anytime with questions, and check out this great web-resource for measuring diagrams & info:
In line with most other vintage sellers, these terms describe an item's overall condition:
• "Mint" = like new, no signs of wear or laundering
• "Near Mint" = shows only the slightest signs of wear or laundering
• "Excellent" = has some typical signs of wear from occasional use
• "Very good" = wearable but has surface flaws (such as: small stains, repaired seams or holes, light pilling or fading/wear in unobtrusive areas)
• "Good" = wearable but cannot be returned to excellent condition even if repairs are made (larger/more prominent stains or fading, weak/worn areas of fabric)
want a garment re-hemmed (longer, shorter) or taken in/out? Just contact me & I'll see if it's possible (check the existing hem or seam allowances) & quote you a price for your alterations. I charge $15/hour for my skilled seamstressing, so most alterations cost around $7 to $20 dollars for a custom-fit = what a deal!
Last Updated November 8, 2014