Vintage Knitting

San Francisco, California · 2181 Sales


Vintage Knitting

San Francisco, California 2181 Sales On Etsy since 2010

5 out of 5 stars

Announcement   Vintage knitting and crochet patterns from all over the world are found at Vintage Knitting.
Patterns are from vintage sources, and come to you via email in PDF format - free, quick, delivery and oh so good for our environment, too! Save on paper, post and time. If you're like me, you have more room on your hard-drive than you do in your closets.


Vintage knitting and crochet patterns from all over the world are found at Vintage Knitting.
Patterns are from vintage sources, and come to you via email in PDF format - free, quick, delivery and oh so good for our environment, too! Save on paper, post and time. If you're like me, you have more room on your hard-drive than you do in your closets.

Livia Ellis

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Livia Ellis

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Shop policies

Last updated on April 9, 2013
Welcome! I'm Livia and I'm a writer and a knitter.

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  • Accepts Etsy gift cards
Paypal :(. It sucks, but what are we going to do?
Via email!!!! Quick, free and environmentally friendly.
Additional policies and FAQs
I'm often asked the same questions so I've decided to create an FAQ. Here are some of the most frequently asked.

Q. What do you do with all of the money you make selling vintage patterns on Etsy?
A. Well.... after paying for my fleet of German cars and my harem of shirtless well-oiled and muscled male servants, I buy more vintage patterns. But seriously.... After paying for the insertion fee on Etsy (.20 per pattern) then covering the cost of Paypal (.40 +/- per transaction) I'd have to sell a lot of patterns in order to even support my latte habit let alone make anything from selling patterns that even remotely makes it worth my time.

Q. Where do you get off charging money for patterns which are in the public domain?
A. Refer to the above. It costs me money to put each pattern on Etsy. I love vintage knitting patterns and I love to share them. My other options for sharing also cost me money (i.e. a website). I love to share, but I'm too broke to foot the bill. Besides, Etsy is a great way to share for next to nothing.

Q. Why bother if you're making less than zip?
A. Everybody needs a hobby. I'm a writer by profession. Sometimes I need something to occupy my mind other than how to resolve a character conflict.

Q. If you're all about "the sharing" and not making a profit, then why do you charge more for the Vogue Knitting patterns.
A. They cost me a WHOLE LOT more to buy than any other pattern. One Vogue Knitting magazine circa 1950 can run me up to around $75. As soon as I have earned back what I've spent, then I'll mark the patterns down to $2.

Q. Are you willing to trade patterns? I have an awesome Vogue 1945 I'm willing to send you a PDF of in exchange for your 1965 Vogue....
A. Absolutely!!!!! Convo me and I'll be happy to start haggling with you like we're in the Marrakesh bazaar.

Q. Can I resell your patterns?
A. I'd really rather you didn't. It does take me a fair amount of time and effort to scan and create the PDF's. I'd prefer to sell them myself.

Q. Can I sell garments made from your patterns?
A. I admire industry! If you send me a link to your Etsy store, I'll be happy to direct people to your shop.

Q. If I pay you, will you knit a garment from one of your patterns for me?
A. I'd love to, but in addition to being a writer, I'm also really busy trying to find time to knit for myself.

Q. I really don't like the pattern I bought from you. It makes me sad. What can I do?
A. Convo me. I'm a reasonable sort of gal that hates disappointment. More than likely I'll ask you to pick out another pattern.

Q. I'm pregnant and I want to buy a whole bunch of patterns from you so I can knit like mad between now and the moment my little munchkin arrives making knitting impossible for the next twenty or so years. Will you make me a deal?
A. Sure. Send me a convo with the numbers you're interested in. Depending on the amount you want, I'll be happy to reduce the price.

Q. Don't you know that Madame Defarge was the main villain in Charles Dickens immortal work A Tale of Two Cities?
A. WOW! Really? I had no idea. I just randomly picked a name. Good thing she knits a lot, huh?

Q. Do people really ask you if you know who Madame Defarge is?
A. Sadly, they do and frequently. Just because she's evil doesn't mean she can't knit.

Q. Can I have the beginner sock knitting pattern you suggest I try before I try to make a sweater?
A. Sure! Here it is. Please convo me with questions.
100 grams sock yarn of your choice
Have some contrast colour yarn handy for the toes if you are making socks for a long foot, or if you want to extend the cuff length.
Size 2 to 3 US (3 mm) double pointed needles

28 sts= 4 inches

CO 56 sts. Join and mark beg of round.

Rib in K2, P2 rib for 7 inches or desired leg length.

Divide For Heel
Put one half of the stitches (28), centered on the beginning of the round, on a needle. (The easiest way to do this is to knit the first 14 sts, then turn and slip the 14 sts on the other side of the marker onto the needle). Place the other half on a holder - these stitches will be the instep later on. Work the heel flap over the 28 sts (using contrast colour if desired):

P across the back of the heel flap, slipping the first stitch.
Sl1, K1 across.

Repeat these 2 rows till you have worked 28 rows (count the slipped stitches which should be 14).

Turning The Heel
You are making short rows to shape a little cup for the heel.

Starting on the right side, knit halfway across the heel flap (14 sts) plus 2 (16). Sl1, K1, psso. K1. Turn.
Sl1, P5, P2tog, P1. Turn.
Sl1, K across to the gap (where you turned), slip the first stitch before the gap, K the stitch on the other side, psso, K1. Turn again.
Sl1, P across to the gap. P2tog across the gap. P1. Turn.

Continue in this manner until all the heel flap stitches have been used up.

Join the first colour back in if you made a contrasting heel. Now you will be picking up the stitches on the sides of the heel flap and knitting around the sock again. Those stitches you put aside before doing the heel flap have waited patiently and will be put back into use!

By slipping the first stitch of each row on the heel flap, you have made a lovely chain edge which will be easy to pick up. You should be able to get 14 stitches on each side, but don't worry if you get more or less than this. I usually pick up the stitches on one needle and knit them onto another, twisting them by knitting into the back of the loop.

Knit across those patient instep stitches, or continue them in ribbing, then pick up and knit the same number of stitches on the other side of the heel flap. Knit one half of the heel flap stitches (8 or 9) onto this needle. Mark the centre as the beginning of the round. You now have three needles with rather a lot of stitches on them - one for each side of the gusset and one for the instep. If you have a spare needle in about the same size you can put the instep stitches on two needles instead - I find this is much easier to work.

Now you want to make a row of decreases on each side of the heel flap to get back to the same number of stitches you began with (56).

Knit to 3 sts from the end of needle 1, K2tog, K1.
Rib across the instep sts.
On needles 3 and 4, K first st, Sl1, K1, psso. Knit to end.

K next round plain (ribbing the instep if desired).
Repeat decrease round every other round until you have 56 sts again.

Continue with knit sole and ribbed instep (just follow the established rib) until the foot measures 2½" less than your foot length. I use my 7" double points to give me a rough idea of when to begin the toe shaping, since my foot is 9½" long.

Shape Toe:
Join contrast colour if using such.
Knit one round plain.

Decrease round:
K to 3 sts from end of first needle, K2tog, K1.
K first st on instep needle, Sl1, psso, knit to 3 sts from end of instep needle (or end of needle 3 if you split the instep sts), K2tog, K1.
Last needle, K1, Sl1, psso, K to end.

Knit one round plain.

Continue alternating plain and decrease rounds until you have half the number of sts you began with (28, or 7 on each of 4 needles). Then decrease on every round until you have 12 sts left all together.

Cut off the yarn leaving an 18" tail. Thread a needle with this yarn tail and graft these sts together using the Kitchener stitch or just thread the end through all the sts and draw them up tightly. Weave the end of the yarn into the back of the stitches (turn the sock inside out).

Weave in all your yarn ends, making sure to leave no knots. Knots in a sock will give you nasty blisters! There, you've made a sock! Welcome to the new addiction...

Now you can make the mate. Handmade socks don't always match. If you want to, you can create a wardrobe of single unmatched but coordinating socks and wear a different pair every time!