This listing is for a PATTERN BUNDLE including BOTH the Lemon Bay Doll 1780s Chemise à la Reine Pattern and the 1780s Cap and Split Rump Pattern for 18" Dolls.

Please note: This is NOT A PHYSICAL ITEM. You are purchasing digital files that require you to have software to read .pdf files and a printer to print the pattern pieces.

This 1780s-inspired pattern set includes all the downloadable, printable patterns and instructions needed to make an 18" doll-scaled chemise à la reine (with petticoat and neck ruffle), a large, oversized cap, and a split rump, as well as the digital embroidery files for the eyelets required on the underbodice and cap. .PES and .Dst embroidery file formats are provided.

GOWN
An historically-inspired gown with two gathered bodice options and two sleeve options, a four-piece fitted back, and unique laced underbodice with eyelets. Gown opens fully in the front (with snap or pin closures at the bodice). Back of gown has a slight train, gathered from waist.
• View 1: Double Gathered Bodice and Gathered Sleeves
This view has a bodice with three drawstring gathered rows: one at the neckline, one at the bust and one at the waist. The
sleeves are gathered into double puffs with two elastic channels.
• View 2: Simple Gathered Bodice and Straight Sleeves
This view has a simpler bodice with gathering channels at the neckline and waist only. The sleeves are fitted and straight
with a split cuff. The construction of View 2 is a bit more challenging and uses techniques which may be unfamiliar to less
experienced sewists giving this pattern its "Intermediate+" sewing level.

Note: Though the pattern has been written to follow through with either View 1 or View 2, the bodice and sleeve options are interchangeable, allowing you to use either bodice variation with either sleeve style.

PETTICOAT
A full, gathered petticoat with split sides. Petticoat ties with twill ties at the front and back of doll. This petticoat worn under the gown gives both volume and opaqueness to the ensemble.

NECK RUFFLE
A two layer, neck ruffle gathered with a drawstring. Drawstring can be made of either twill tape, perfect if you wish to hide the tie, or ribbon, for a more decorative look. You may choose to tack it in a few places (at center back and shoulders) to make it more permanent or keep it as a loose accessory giving you the option of changing the ribbon color/thickness for variation.

CAP
An historically inspired, extra large cap, perfect for the “big hair” hedgehogs and other voluminous hairstyles of the 1780s. Though the 1780s saw a movement toward the more natural, the hairstyles remained very large and often required the addition of fake hair to achieve the desired volume. With the broadening of hair, the caps followed suit in fancifully large proportions, often heavily be-ribboned, meant as an adornment to the hairstyle rather than a covering. Designed to gather with a drawstring and the nape of neck, it is easily adjustable to fit on dolls without “big hair.”

SPLIT-RUMP
A false rump with half-petticoat, to be worn under 1780s-90s fashions for structure and shaping. As an undergarment, the split rump provides the correct silhouette, achieving back end fullness while allowing the long sashes of chemise à la reine, or the back center point of Italian gowns (also known as robe a l’anglaise) to lie flat.


Materials Required:

Gown and Neck Ruffle
Main Fabric: LIGHTWEIGHT fabrics such as cotton or silk batiste, cotton voile, cotton mull. (It is essential to use a lightweight fabric for this garment. The pattern has been expressly designed for this weight. You will find it difficult/impossible to gather the required widths of fabric used for this gown with heavier weight cottons such as quilting cotton.)
• View 1 or 2: (42”)—1 yard , (54”)—2/3 yard
Lining Fabric: Linen, muslin, quilting cotton–a fabric with more body than main for structure.
• Both Views: 24” x 6” scrap of fabric

Note about Neck Ruffle: I have included the neck ruffle in the main fabric layout, but please keep in mind that the way this ruffle is constructed requires both sides of the fabric to show. Consider this when choosing the fabric for your ruffle.
Notions
• View 1:
Twill Tape — 3 yards of 1/8” wide
Elastic — 44” of 1/8” wide
Sequins Pins, or Snaps — 3
• View 2:
Twill Tape — 2 yards of 1/8” wide
Sequins Pins, or Snaps — 2
Optional: 4-6mm Buttons or Hook & Eyes — 2
• Both Views:
1 yard of 1/8” wide twill tape, or ribbon (1/8” – 1 ½” wide) for neck ruffle
1 – 1 1/3 yard of 1 ½”-3” wide ribbon for sash
54” single fold bias tape, 1" bias stripes of your own making

Petticoat
Fabric: same as main fabric, or lightweight cotton
• (54”) —1/3 yard, (43”)—2/3 yard
Notions
• Twill Tape — 2 yards of 1/8” wide

Split Rump
Fabric: cotton, linen, muslin
• (54”) —1/4 yard
Notions
• Twill Tape —1 yard of 1/8” wide
• Stuffing material—fiberfill, cotton stuffing, or even small fabric scraps!

Cap
Fabric: Lightweight fabrics such as cotton or silk batiste, cotton voile, cotton mull, organdy, organza
• (54”) —1/3 yard
Notions
• Twill Tape or Ribbon — 2/3 yard of 1/8” wide for tie
• Ribbon for embellishing



These patterns were created for and modeled on American Girl® dolls. They will fit similarly proportioned 18-inch dolls, but please measure your doll and adjust as needed for best fit.

Original pattern designed by Lemon Bay Doll. All rights reserved. ©Michelle Weber, 2023

Lemon Bay Doll is not affiliated with American Girl® in any way. We are simply a family of doll collectors, crafters and sewists who have loved these dolls for two decades and share this love with others through the garments, toys, and patterns we design and create for them in our home-based business. You may use your purchased Lemon Bay Doll 1780s Chemise à la Reine pattern for your own personal use. You may sell items made using this pattern from your home-based business if you credit Lemon Bay Doll for pattern design in your listings. Pattern may not be used for large-scale commercial manufacturing.

Thank you and happy sewing!