Strong directional composition of alternating bands of white vine-like creeper forms and orange floral-bud maze squares. Look closely at the individual orange forms and notice the shimmering floss embroidery, created by the simple grouping of threads and vertical-horizontal placement causing lighting effect contrasts. The most special feature of this piece however lies in the upper end base fabric patch, standing proudly against the otherwise natural dyed base cloth.
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ORIGIN: India/Pakistan, Punjab Province; c. early 1900’s
MATERIAL: khadi cotton, silk floss
TECHNIQUE: homespun, handwoven, embroidered

LENGTH: 8'-3" / 2.5 m
WIDTH: 3'-10" / 1.17 m
CONDITION: fair; wear and discolorations consistent with age and use
ITEM: #1054-901
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Fashioned from joined panels of ‘Khaddar’ (home-spun, hand-woven and vegetable dyed cotton cloth created locally), a Phulkari ground fabric was embellished with untwisted soft silk floss embroidery employing a counted darning stitch and worked entirely from the reverse of the fabric. When making geometrical patterns, Phulkari were not stitched in one direction but horizontal and vertical stitches were combined leaving long floats on the front to form reflected light and color effects. Double running stitch was used for the narrative works, and a variety of stitch styles added too. The amount of work is mind boggling. Phulkari (literally “flower-work”), range from striking geometric patterns to charming folk narratives. In every work ‘mistakes’ were often intentionally introduced as a show of humility by the artisans who believed only God could produce perfection.
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=> The Textile Museum 2022: https://museum.gwu.edu/indian-textiles-1000-years-art-and-design

=> Philadelphia Museum 2017: https://www.philamuseum.org/exhibitions/857.html

=> Jack Shainman Gallery 2006: https://bit.ly/2OEG1KR

=> Allentown Art Museum PA 1996: https://bit.ly/38XYV6i
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