This stunningly simple, feminine filigree pendant and bail are handmade from .999 fine silver, entirely hand crafted by me in my Bulverde, Texas studio. Filigree wire is created from hand-twisted and rolled 24-gauge fine or sterling silver wire, then shaped by hand, and carefully soldered into place inside a fine or sterling silver wire frame. The frame on this pendant is hand-shaped from 16-gauge round sterling silver wire. Accented with a beautiful 4mm smooth, round turquoise cabochon, and hangs from a 20-inch round snake chain.
Dimensions:
Pendant: About 1.25-inches x 7/8 inch (about 7/8-inch diameter without bail, or about 25mm)
Chain: 20-inches
What is filigree?
Filigree jewelry pieces originated in Mesopotamia and Ancient Greece and date from more than 5,000 years BC. However, it took more than 6,500 years for filigree jewelry to become fashionable. The French fashion of the 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries started promoting the pieces until they reached a peak in popularity during the Art Deco period in the 1920s.
Throughout history, the filigree was not only used to create jewelry. These pieces also took part in the iron railing and household item fabrication. Bowls, plates, light fixtures, and lamps were all made using filigree for centuries. The essence of filigree lies in metal manipulation, so pretty much every metal could be used in the process, including copper, iron, silver, gold, or platinum.
The philosophy behind filigree is fairly simple in theory. It consists of delicate manipulations of thin metal strips. The strips are twisted and woven to achieve beautiful details and texture. In practice, it takes a lot of time and skill to create a filigree piece.
The work begins by stretching metal into threadlike thin strips. This is a time-consuming task. Many jewelers perform this part of the job by hand even today. More modern-technology-oriented professionals rely on machines for strip creation.
When the jewelers form the strips, they start working with one piece at a time. They can use heated tools to soften the construction and then twist it or manipulate it until reaching a desired design or shape. The wires can be shaped with pliers, tweezers, or hands. As for the cutting, jewelers use wire cutters or cold chisels.
After reaching the desired shape, the jeweler solders the piece to the metal base.
This process is repeated as many times as required to reach the final design.
Most filigree design styles are linear since the wire is the main material. Smaller wires get patterned into areas within the borders of larger areas. These large areas give the piece strength and structure, while the small ones are mainly used for decorative purposes.
Some more traditional craftsmanship methods include filigree lines that don’t overlap, while others may include them closer together or one on top of another.