L&P 2021: Glengarry Hat and Ribbon Cockade Pattern for 18 inch dolls such as American Girl — vintage doll style for the 1940s and beyond!

L&P 2021: Glengarry Hat and Ribbon Cockade Pattern for 18 inch dolls such as American Girl — vintage doll style for the 1940s and beyond!



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The 1940s were a wonderfully inventive era for millinery. As war supply demands made fabric for new dresses scarce, designers and home sewers alike turned their creativity to crafting, decorating and re-decorating an array of glorious hats, mining nearly every traditional form and adding remarkable new forms as well. With Hollywood stars to model the results in front of audiences that broke every record for cinema attendance before or since... yes, the 1940s were a great era for hats.


Glengarry caps, or "bonnets," have been worn since the 18th century. Though initially a form of Scottish military headgear, the Glengarry quickly became popular for English and American civilians: not just men, but women and children as well. The style was particularly popular during the American Civil War era – and then again in the 1940s.

Lee & Pearl™ pattern #2021 takes the standard cap and exaggerates the lines ever-so-slightly into a more glamorous shape and a scale better suited to an 18" face. With a wide base, this hat sits squarely and securely on top of the head, though one can imagine Hollywood stars like Rosalind Russell or Ida Lupino wearing it at a rakish tilt, low over the forehead and close to one eye. Any modern 18" doll will want to wear this hat as well, either for its Scottish, military or just plain cool retro style.

To reduce bulk, our Glengarry has no central seam on the tip, and instead features a recessed construction to mimic the look of a fashionable molded felt hat. We have included directions for both a bias band facing and an optional full lining. Along with illustrated recommendations for trims that traditionally compliment the Glengarry shape – bias or shaped ribbon bands and feathers – we have added detailed directions for our own quick and foolproof technique to produce a jaunty ribbon cockade.

This hat is rated EASY/INTERMEDIATE for curved seams – but with a limited number of detailed, photo-illustrated construction steps and computer-drafted pieces guaranteed to fit together this pattern might be a good choice for a beginner who wants to become more comfortable sewing curves.



1/4 yard light or medium weight woven fabric or felt

OPTIONAL: 1/4 yard very light (or soft) fusible interfacing
(This pattern works best with fabrics that simulate the weight and flexibility of wool felt. Use your judgment to interface lightweight or loosely-woven fabric as needed.)

1/2 yard single-fold bias tape (directions are included for making your own bias tape, for which you will need 1/3 yard of lightweight woven fabric)

Matching thread


FInish your style with the trim of your choice: bias-cut ribbons or flexible millinery grosgrain (also called petersham or ribbon belting – look for the distinctive "toothed" edges), bias-cut fabric bands, ribbon bows, feathers, patches, beads, buttons, small jewelry findings, etc.

or make your own:


1 yard 3/8" ribbon

Scrap of felt or crinoline

1 bead or shank button

Sharp, slender pins
(use silk pins for silk ribbon)


Sign up for our mailing list at www.leeandpearl.com, and you'll receive our newsletter full of free pattern tweaks, tutorials, crafts and printables. PLUS, you'll get the link for our annual members-only FREE PATTERN.

Starting in December 2018, that's Lee & Pearl Pattern 1038: The Gift Bow Front Dress for 18 Inch, 16 Inch and 14 1/2 Inch Dolls.

While scouting the fashion pages and runway reports for inspiration, our pattern designer was struck by one of the prettiest trends we’ve seen in a long time. You’ve probably noticed it too — all those soft ruffles and gathers, interesting pleats and seams, bows and motifs formed out of the fabric of the dress itself. It’s an organic kind of ornamentation, that allows over-the-top frills while still retaining the elegant restraint of a vintage couture gown.

Our Bow Front Dress explores this lovely trend with pleated raglan sleeves, a draped front panel and inverted center front pleats that mimic the look of a tied ribbon bow. Best of all, we designed this dress to be made from a single quarter yard or fat quarter of ordinary woven fabric — a dress designed around the use of pretty fabrics should allow you to use a wide variety of pretty fabrics!

Do not miss out on this pattern — join our mailing list today at www.leeandpearl.com.

Join the Lee & Pearl™ community: like us on Facebook (Lee & Pearl), follow us on Instagram (#leeandpearl), share us on Pinterest (www.pinterest.com/leeandpearl) and watch us on YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/c/leeandpearl).

We love how this pattern looks with modern outfits, and also with the retro suits made from our Pattern #1943: "Molly Waves Goodbye" 1940s Suit for 18" Dolls – https://www.etsy.com/listing/167296786/lp-pattern-1943-molly-waves-goodbye

To see our other patterns, visit the PATTERNS section of our Etsy store at https://www.etsy.com/shop/leeandpearl?section_id=15862176&ref=shopsection_leftnav_1

To see our selection of Fabric & Trim Kits, visit the FABRIC & TRIM KITS section of our Etsy store at https://www.etsy.com/shop/leeandpearl?section_id=15860795&ref=shopsection_leftnav_2


This pattern will be delivered as an instant download. After purchasing, you will receive a link to a PDF copy of the file. No paper copy will be mailed.

This pattern may be printed solely by the original purchaser. It may not be duplicated, redistributed, posted or resold without prior authorization from Lee & Pearl™. If you use this pattern to make items to sell yourself, we ask that you give Lee & Pearl™ design credit in the description of those items. Thank you!

Lee & Pearl™ is not affiliated with Mattel, American Girl® or any other company or organization.


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2,084 shop reviews 5 out of 5 stars


aussiejill77 Jul 12, 2019

Pamela Garner Sep 5, 2020

5 out of 5 stars

This was fun to sew up! The instructions were easy to follow. I love the weight and feel of the finished dress.

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5 out of 5 stars

It actually works!! I use it at work under a surgical mask. I draw blood all day so I can’t have foggy glasses. The seller also corrected a shipping mistake that was my fault. Thank you so much!!!

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