Vulcanite-Antique Victorian Mourning Pin( East Lake Style) 2.15"

This is a truly magnificent example of Victorian mourning jewelry created sometime between 1837-1902.
Two of the favorite materials used in Victorian mourning jewelry were Vulcanite and gutta percha, two different forms of hardened black rubber. These materials offered an affordable alternative to Jet a costly stone composed of hardened coal. This pin is composed of Vulcanite.
The style is “East Lake“, a style popular when this pin was crafted.
The Victorians often used jewelry to convey a message so the use of the color black in this piece is also quite significant. Black symbolized the lack of light, the lack of life. It was used extensively in mourning jewelry.
So...to the Victorians this pin set a clear message that a loved one, possibly a spouse has died. This pin is a very traditional Victorian Mourning piece, filled with meaning and ultimately a bit macabre.

What is Vulcanite?
Vulcanite was patented in 1846 by Goodyear (the same tire manufacturer of today), as the patent specified a manner of mixing rubber and sulphur, then heating the mixture to one hundred and fifteen degrees Celsius. It produces a brown powder when scratched and has a faint odour of sulphur. Often, a vulcanite piece in good condition can be hard to discern from actual jet, but one of the signs to look for (next to burning it with a needle and checking for the smell – Jet smells of coal) is to look at the design and note if the piece is obviously moulded (such as the smooth, curved expanding band on this piece) or if there are the obvious carving marks.

Often called ‘ebonite’, vulcanite was the most mass-produced rival to actual jet. Its ability to be moulded and not carved, along with a relatively low cost vs. labour to manufacture made vulcanite a material that was accessible to middle and lower classes of the 19th century, especially at a time when actual jet was the height of fashion. However, vulcanite, like other plastics has been seen to devalue the real thing.

Vulcanite could withstand high polishing and show a high gloss lustre in the same way as jet, but over time, the fading to khaki from black is a tell-tale sign. Vulcanite has a relatively low tolerance to sunlight so, finding pieces in their original condition isn’t hard (as there were many thousands of pieces produced), but it is becoming more difficult to find.

When buying jet or vulcanite, be vary wary and scrutinise your piece closely. One of the easiest ways is to spot the carving behind the memento (photo or hair) in a locket, as this wasn’t smooth and moulded like vulcanite, jet will often show the marks of the carver’s tools.

East Lake Style:
The Eastlake Movement was an American nineteenth-century architectural and household design reform movement started by architect and writer Charles Eastlake (1836–1906). The movement is generally considered part of the late Victorian period in terms of broad antique furniture designations and decorative arts.

Please review the photos carefully and email with any questions you may have prior to making a purchase.

Enjoy🌞
The pin measures 2.15”and has a working C-Clasp and is in beautiful vintage condition.