MahoganyRhino

Working typewriters vintage, antique, and modern.

Lenexa, Kansas
| 2,584 Sales | 5 out of 5 stars 5 out of 5 stars

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Announcement    Mahogany Rhino sells vintage and antique typewriters. Whether it's an Olivetti Valentine that first catches your eye, or the sound of a Smith Corona Sterling clattering away, falling under the spell of a typewriter is something I know all too well. I also consider it my privilege to share the typewriter experience with my customers, and to bring them these works of functional art they can cherish.

Here is what I offer:
VINTAGE TYPEWRITERS (http://bit.ly/Vintage_Typewriters)
ANTIQUE TYPEWRITERS (http://bit.ly/Antique_Typewriters)
TYPEWRITER SUPPLIES (http://bit.ly/Typewriter_Supplies)
TYPEWRITER ACCESSORIES (http://bit.ly/Typewriter_Accessories)
TYPEWREITER EPHEMERA (http://bit.ly/Typewriter_Ephemera)

***MY TYPEWRITERS***
I only sell vintage or antique typewriters that are either in great working shape, beautiful to look at, or preferably both. Whenever I find a typewriter I make sure to restore it to the best of my abilities before I sell it. Whether that means I spend weeks cleaning the machine of decades of nicotine residue, or a few minutes testing the machine out before I list it, I want you to be confident that the machine will do what I say it will do.

Unless the typewriter is in great condition when I find it, I strip down each machine, clean it, lubricate it, and polish or wax it. Sometimes I will replace parts, such as worn out rubber feet, or make other changes as necessary.

I must, unfortunately, add a big caveat. The typewriters I sell are old, no longer made, and are often hard to repair. Even if you have a typewriter repair shop in your area, as I do, there is no guarantee that a professional can address any problem or issue that might arise. For example, many older typewriters have hardened rubber platens (rollers) that are difficult, if not impossible, to soften. Not only that, but no one makes replacement platens anymore, so finding spare parts is incredibly difficult.

Because these machines are so old, predicting what problems might arise and when is almost impossible. So, please approach each of these machines with caution. I will describe them as best I can, test them before I sell them, and inform you about any issue or problem I find, but I cannot guarantee that you will find them in the exact same condition. Whether from age, shipping, or simple bad luck, typewriters, like any machine, can break.

***RATING SYSTEM***
I describe my typewriters using a rating system that I use to evaluate them in terms of both cosmetic and mechanical condition. Unless specified otherwise, all of my machines are a 7 (Good) or above, and I describe each specifically in the listing along with any flaws or problems.

***COSMETIC***
10. Nearly Flawless. Reconditioned or new-old-stock machine. A machine that is as close to out-of-the-box as possible. No flaws in the paint, decals, keys, or anywhere else, or only minor insignificant production flaws that are only apparent upon close, thorough inspection. No discernible patina.
9. Excellent. Reconditioned machine. Very minor paint or cosmetic flaws, minor decal fading, or some patina.
8. Very Good. Reconditioned machine. Some minor cosmetic flaws in the paint. Faded, but still visible, decals. Some minor rust spots. Noticeable patina.
7. Good. Reconditioned machine with cosmetic flaws in the paint such as scratches, dents, faded areas, or rust spots. Decals faded partially, or some fully. Noticeable patina.
6. Untouched Good. Non-reconditioned machine. When reconditioned, machine would be in excellent or better condition.
5. Untouched Fair. Non-reconditioned machine. When reconditioned, machine would be in good or better condition.
4. Poor. Clear signs of age. Dirty, faded, or rusted paint. Missing parts. A lot of dirt, grime, and debris. Can be reconditioned, but mostly suitable as a parts or decorative-only machine.
3. Very Poor. Rusted, damaged, or missing vital parts. A lot of dirt, grime, and debris. Can be reconditioned with great effort. Suitable as a parts machine or rustic decorative machine.
2. Salvage. Serious rust, damage, or missing pieces. Only restorable with significant effort and spare parts. Marginally suitable as parts machine.
1. Destroyed. No cosmetic appeal. Not capable of restoration. Not useful for parts.

***MECHANICAL CONDITION***
10. Nearly Flawless. Reconditioned or new-old-stock machine. The typewriter performs exactly as it should, with all pieces performing properly. The rubber is in good shape, leaving no indents or cutouts. No mechanical defects of any kind when tested.
9. Excellent. Fully functional, with all pieces performing properly. The rubber has hardened with age, and will leave minor indents in the page. Other rubber pieces in good shape or replaced with new pieces. No mechanical defects of any kind when tested.
8. Very Good. Functional, with a minor mechanical issue or defect, such as a faulty ribbon color selector or anything that doesn't affect typing ability. Platen has hardened, and may leave significant indents and occasional cutouts in page.
7. Good. Functional, though not fully. Hardened rubber. Minor mechanical defects, such as missing bell, or hardened feed rollers that make feeding paper difficult, may have minor effect on typing ability.
6. Untouched Good. Non-reconditioned machine, at least partially functional. When reconditioned, machine would be in very good or better condition, and would be fully functional with cleaning, lubrication, or adjustment.
5. Untouched Fair. Non-reconditioned machine, partially or non-functional. When reconditioned, machine would be in good or better condition, or would be suitable as display-only machine.
4. Poor. Limited mechanical function. Missing, broken or non-functional parts. Can be reconditioned, but most suitable as a parts or decorative-only machine.
3. Very Poor. No, or very limited, mechanical function. A lot of dirt, grime, and debris. Can be reconditioned with significant work, replacement or fabricated parts. Suitable as a parts machine or rustic decorative machine.
2. Salvage. No, or very limited, mechanical function. Serious rust, damage, or missing pieces. Not restorable. Marginally suitable as parts machine.
1. Destroyed. No mechanical function. Not capable of restoration. Not useful as parts machine.

***RECOMMENDED BUYER***
Some typewriters are best for writers, others for designers, others for collectors, and others for those new to typewriters who are looking to get started. I'll let you know what I think of each machine and tell you who I think it would be best suited for. Of course, your judgment is just as valid as mine, so please feel free to ignore my recommendation, especially if you find a machine that you fall in love with.

***PERSONAL INSPECTION***
If you're located in the Kansas City metropolitan area you can contact me to set up a time when you can inspect the typewriter in person.

***SHIPPING***
I will ship a typewriter anywhere. If you are an international buyer, please contact me about shipping costs prior to buying so I can give you an exact quote.

I also feel that it's important to note that shipping a typewriter takes a lot of care and attention to detail. Some typewriters weight 40 pounds or more, and they all have moving parts that can get easily damaged if not packaged properly. So, whenever I ship a typewriter, I take specific steps to make sure they get there safely.
First I isolate any moving parts, such as the carriage and the type-bars, so they cannot move during shipping.
Second I wrap the typewriter in bubble wrap.
Third, for heavier typewriters, I cut a cardboard box and shape it around the bubble-wrapped typewriter, forming a protective cardboard shell. (For lighter portable machines, the case itself can sometimes serve as the shell, though these too I will sometimes wrap in cardboard.) I then wrap the cardboard-wrapped typewriter in another layer of bubble wrap.
Finally, I place the machine in a stiff cardboard box and surround it with cushioning material so it is as protected as possible.

All of this takes a lot of time, planning, and materials, but I feel that it is a worthwhile expense given the unique nature of these beautiful machines.

***MORE INFORMATION***
If you are on the lookout for a particular machine or item, just let me know and I'll contact you when I find the write one. (Get it?) If you have a question, need advice, or just want to talk about typewriters, send me a message and I'll answer as soon as I can. I can talk about typewriters all day, so feel free to contact me whenever you like.

**WATCH ME WORK**
I post on social media, often showing images of machines I'm working on, my process, and all the other important aspects of working in a typewriter shop. Feel free to follow me:

http://www.imgrum.org/user/mahoganyrhino/1495601302
https://twitter.com/mahorhino
https://www.facebook.com/MahoganyRhinoShop/
http://www.mahoganyrhino.com/

Cheers!
Mark

Announcement

Last updated on Jul 10, 2018

Mahogany Rhino sells vintage and antique typewriters. Whether it's an Olivetti Valentine that first catches your eye, or the sound of a Smith Corona Sterling clattering away, falling under the spell of a typewriter is something I know all too well. I also consider it my privilege to share the typewriter experience with my customers, and to bring them these works of functional art they can cherish.

Here is what I offer:
VINTAGE TYPEWRITERS (http://bit.ly/Vintage_Typewriters)
ANTIQUE TYPEWRITERS (http://bit.ly/Antique_Typewriters)
TYPEWRITER SUPPLIES (http://bit.ly/Typewriter_Supplies)
TYPEWRITER ACCESSORIES (http://bit.ly/Typewriter_Accessories)
TYPEWREITER EPHEMERA (http://bit.ly/Typewriter_Ephemera)

***MY TYPEWRITERS***
I only sell vintage or antique typewriters that are either in great working shape, beautiful to look at, or preferably both. Whenever I find a typewriter I make sure to restore it to the best of my abilities before I sell it. Whether that means I spend weeks cleaning the machine of decades of nicotine residue, or a few minutes testing the machine out before I list it, I want you to be confident that the machine will do what I say it will do.

Unless the typewriter is in great condition when I find it, I strip down each machine, clean it, lubricate it, and polish or wax it. Sometimes I will replace parts, such as worn out rubber feet, or make other changes as necessary.

I must, unfortunately, add a big caveat. The typewriters I sell are old, no longer made, and are often hard to repair. Even if you have a typewriter repair shop in your area, as I do, there is no guarantee that a professional can address any problem or issue that might arise. For example, many older typewriters have hardened rubber platens (rollers) that are difficult, if not impossible, to soften. Not only that, but no one makes replacement platens anymore, so finding spare parts is incredibly difficult.

Because these machines are so old, predicting what problems might arise and when is almost impossible. So, please approach each of these machines with caution. I will describe them as best I can, test them before I sell them, and inform you about any issue or problem I find, but I cannot guarantee that you will find them in the exact same condition. Whether from age, shipping, or simple bad luck, typewriters, like any machine, can break.

***RATING SYSTEM***
I describe my typewriters using a rating system that I use to evaluate them in terms of both cosmetic and mechanical condition. Unless specified otherwise, all of my machines are a 7 (Good) or above, and I describe each specifically in the listing along with any flaws or problems.

***COSMETIC***
10. Nearly Flawless. Reconditioned or new-old-stock machine. A machine that is as close to out-of-the-box as possible. No flaws in the paint, decals, keys, or anywhere else, or only minor insignificant production flaws that are only apparent upon close, thorough inspection. No discernible patina.
9. Excellent. Reconditioned machine. Very minor paint or cosmetic flaws, minor decal fading, or some patina.
8. Very Good. Reconditioned machine. Some minor cosmetic flaws in the paint. Faded, but still visible, decals. Some minor rust spots. Noticeable patina.
7. Good. Reconditioned machine with cosmetic flaws in the paint such as scratches, dents, faded areas, or rust spots. Decals faded partially, or some fully. Noticeable patina.
6. Untouched Good. Non-reconditioned machine. When reconditioned, machine would be in excellent or better condition.
5. Untouched Fair. Non-reconditioned machine. When reconditioned, machine would be in good or better condition.
4. Poor. Clear signs of age. Dirty, faded, or rusted paint. Missing parts. A lot of dirt, grime, and debris. Can be reconditioned, but mostly suitable as a parts or decorative-only machine.
3. Very Poor. Rusted, damaged, or missing vital parts. A lot of dirt, grime, and debris. Can be reconditioned with great effort. Suitable as a parts machine or rustic decorative machine.
2. Salvage. Serious rust, damage, or missing pieces. Only restorable with significant effort and spare parts. Marginally suitable as parts machine.
1. Destroyed. No cosmetic appeal. Not capable of restoration. Not useful for parts.

***MECHANICAL CONDITION***
10. Nearly Flawless. Reconditioned or new-old-stock machine. The typewriter performs exactly as it should, with all pieces performing properly. The rubber is in good shape, leaving no indents or cutouts. No mechanical defects of any kind when tested.
9. Excellent. Fully functional, with all pieces performing properly. The rubber has hardened with age, and will leave minor indents in the page. Other rubber pieces in good shape or replaced with new pieces. No mechanical defects of any kind when tested.
8. Very Good. Functional, with a minor mechanical issue or defect, such as a faulty ribbon color selector or anything that doesn't affect typing ability. Platen has hardened, and may leave significant indents and occasional cutouts in page.
7. Good. Functional, though not fully. Hardened rubber. Minor mechanical defects, such as missing bell, or hardened feed rollers that make feeding paper difficult, may have minor effect on typing ability.
6. Untouched Good. Non-reconditioned machine, at least partially functional. When reconditioned, machine would be in very good or better condition, and would be fully functional with cleaning, lubrication, or adjustment.
5. Untouched Fair. Non-reconditioned machine, partially or non-functional. When reconditioned, machine would be in good or better condition, or would be suitable as display-only machine.
4. Poor. Limited mechanical function. Missing, broken or non-functional parts. Can be reconditioned, but most suitable as a parts or decorative-only machine.
3. Very Poor. No, or very limited, mechanical function. A lot of dirt, grime, and debris. Can be reconditioned with significant work, replacement or fabricated parts. Suitable as a parts machine or rustic decorative machine.
2. Salvage. No, or very limited, mechanical function. Serious rust, damage, or missing pieces. Not restorable. Marginally suitable as parts machine.
1. Destroyed. No mechanical function. Not capable of restoration. Not useful as parts machine.

***RECOMMENDED BUYER***
Some typewriters are best for writers, others for designers, others for collectors, and others for those new to typewriters who are looking to get started. I'll let you know what I think of each machine and tell you who I think it would be best suited for. Of course, your judgment is just as valid as mine, so please feel free to ignore my recommendation, especially if you find a machine that you fall in love with.

***PERSONAL INSPECTION***
If you're located in the Kansas City metropolitan area you can contact me to set up a time when you can inspect the typewriter in person.

***SHIPPING***
I will ship a typewriter anywhere. If you are an international buyer, please contact me about shipping costs prior to buying so I can give you an exact quote.

I also feel that it's important to note that shipping a typewriter takes a lot of care and attention to detail. Some typewriters weight 40 pounds or more, and they all have moving parts that can get easily damaged if not packaged properly. So, whenever I ship a typewriter, I take specific steps to make sure they get there safely.
First I isolate any moving parts, such as the carriage and the type-bars, so they cannot move during shipping.
Second I wrap the typewriter in bubble wrap.
Third, for heavier typewriters, I cut a cardboard box and shape it around the bubble-wrapped typewriter, forming a protective cardboard shell. (For lighter portable machines, the case itself can sometimes serve as the shell, though these too I will sometimes wrap in cardboard.) I then wrap the cardboard-wrapped typewriter in another layer of bubble wrap.
Finally, I place the machine in a stiff cardboard box and surround it with cushioning material so it is as protected as possible.

All of this takes a lot of time, planning, and materials, but I feel that it is a worthwhile expense given the unique nature of these beautiful machines.

***MORE INFORMATION***
If you are on the lookout for a particular machine or item, just let me know and I'll contact you when I find the write one. (Get it?) If you have a question, need advice, or just want to talk about typewriters, send me a message and I'll answer as soon as I can. I can talk about typewriters all day, so feel free to contact me whenever you like.

**WATCH ME WORK**
I post on social media, often showing images of machines I'm working on, my process, and all the other important aspects of working in a typewriter shop. Feel free to follow me:

http://www.imgrum.org/user/mahoganyrhino/1495601302
https://twitter.com/mahorhino
https://www.facebook.com/MahoganyRhinoShop/
http://www.mahoganyrhino.com/

Cheers!
Mark

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About MahoganyRhino

Sales 2,584
On Etsy since 2013

I Collect, Refurbish, and Sell Vintage and Antique Typewriters

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  • Mark

    Owner

    I'm a writer who also collects vintage and antique typewriters.

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Last updated on Oct 20, 2020

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