HOW TO BURN YOUR CANDLE

1. Light your candle in a well-ventilated room, away from drafts or fans, which can cause sooting (black marks on the vessel), or rapid, uneven burning.


2. Burn regular-sized candles for one and a half to two hours at a time or until the wax has pooled to the edges. Burning for less time can cause the candle to 'tunnel', which leaves a build-up of wax around the vessel's sides and can reduce the maximum burn time. Burning for longer periods (over four hours) can cause the wick to move, or slant.


3. Make sure you stop burning your candle when 10mm of wax remains at the bottom, keeping an eye on a burning candle when the wax is low.

HOW TO CARE FOR WICKS

1. Keep the wax pool clear of wick trimmings and matches, as debris in the wax can act as a secondary wick, encouraging your candle to burn faster.


2. After extinguishing the flame with a snuffer, centre and straighten the wick. Burning for too long can cause the wick to move, or slant. If you see a flaming wick come close to the vessel wall, extinguish the flame and straighten the wick to prevent the vessel from cracking.


3. Long, or crooked wicks can create high flames, smoking, or sooting. Trimming the wick to 5mm (when the wax has set) following every burn is the easiest way to prevent this.

Pull away' is a term used to describe what looks like air bubbles in glass-vessel candles. After the hot wax has been poured into a vessel and cools down, it will slightly shrink, which can cause the wax to pull away very slightly from the vessel wall. This gap is no larger than a hair, but the glass can act as a magnifier, creating the illusion of an air bubble. Following cooling, the vessel's heat is applied to the top of each candle to create an impeccably smooth surface and minimise some of the pull away. However, there's no need to worry about this, as once you light your candle and it warms back up, these bubbles will start to disappear and will not affect your candle’s diffusion and lifespan.